Hi all,

I planning to put together a bed frame and was wondering if these bed
rail fasteners would work for the legs and rails in a workbench? Would
these control the racking forces that's put on a workbench? Just
wondering....

Layne

Oops,

I forgot to post the link for the picture of what I'm talking about. I
do not work for Woodcraft...

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...&FamilyID=3269

Thanks,

Layne

On Tue, 03 May 2005 01:53:56 GMT, Layne wrote:

Hi all,

I planning to put together a bed frame and was wondering if these bed
rail fasteners would work for the legs and rails in a workbench? Would
these control the racking forces that's put on a workbench? Just
wondering....

Layne

Probably would work for a regular garage bench. But for a woodworking
bench with integral vises and dogholes for hand planing, go with bench bolts,
this is the idea:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...47&cat=1,41637
....because of that price I will be using the same type of hex cap bolts and
regular hex nuts. I need far too many to buy those in multiple sets. The brass
piece is called a cross dowel, personally I cannot find large enough ones.
These will very much "tighten" the bench together much more than that bed
hook hardware.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Layne wrote:
Oops,

I forgot to post the link for the picture of what I'm talking about.
I
do not work for Woodcraft...

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...&FamilyID=3269

Thanks,

Layne

On Tue, 03 May 2005 01:53:56 GMT, Layne wrote:

Hi all,

I planning to put together a bed frame and was wondering if these
bed
rail fasteners would work for the legs and rails in a workbench?
Would
these control the racking forces that's put on a workbench? Just
wondering....

Layne


I wouldn't even think of that kind of connector for a workbench. If
you're gong to use mechanical connectors for the legs, there are a half
dozen better ways to go, with my preference the Veritas cross dowel
set...it's fairly expensive (+ or - 25 USD), but you only need one set
per bench. And like all Veritas items, it's well made and good looking.

You could also use standard 13mm cross dowels (diameter) with 1/4-20
bolts, and double them. Those are available at Woodworker's Supply.
Rockler has 10mm cross dowels, which can also be doubled, and, IIRC,
also use 1/4-20 bolts.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news6Ede.13499$_K.8714@fed1read03...

I need far too many to buy those in multiple sets. The brass
piece is called a cross dowel, personally I cannot find large enough ones.

brass rod + hacksaw + drill + tap

How large do you need? Enco sells brass rod up to at least 3"D.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Morris Dovey wrote:

"AAvK" wrote in message
news6Ede.13499$_K.8714@fed1read03...

I need far too many to buy those in multiple sets. The brass
piece is called a cross dowel, personally I cannot find large enough ones.

brass rod + hacksaw + drill + tap

How large do you need? Enco sells brass rod up to at least 3"D.

Even easier, drill hole for bolt, change to forstner bit, drill at right
angles in long bearer so forstner meets long hole (order may be
reversed). Take chisel, square up forstner hole facing end frame.
Assemble bench using long clamps, insert bolts with large washer under
head, slide washer on end in side hole, add bolt, tighten.

That is how my bench is held together, two such bolts per joint. What I
would do in future though is seat bearer in slot or if into leg make
mortise and tenon to further resist racking forces.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country

Thanks guys for your input and suggestions. I'll nix the bed rail
hardware idea. I've seen the Veritas bench bolts before and will get a
set. I've been putting off making my bench for too long.

Now that I'm moving into a 1bdrm apartment I'll be using the bedroom
as a workshop and using the living area as a studio. :-) The only prob
is the door from the living area to the bedroom isn't a straight path.
The bedroom door and the bathroom door share a "cove" I guess you
could call it and the bedroom doorway and the living room doorway are
at right angles. Couldn't even fit my Bowflex through into the
bedroom. It's going to limit what I can make. I can't make things too
wide or long. :-(

Thanks,

Layne

brass rod + hacksaw + drill + tap

How large do you need? Enco sells brass rod up to at least 3"D.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html


I never thought og it that way really, I was thinking of buying brass rod
and having them made. I suppose the rod could be cheap enough. I
wonder if I would have to have the end slit cut by a machinist though,
unless there is an easy method. It would take merely a ton of cutting
and work to do it though. Too much. About 10-12 bench bolts or more.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Even easier, drill hole for bolt, change to forstner bit, drill at right
angles in long bearer so forstner meets long hole (order may be
reversed). Take chisel, square up forstner hole facing end frame.
Assemble bench using long clamps, insert bolts with large washer under
head, slide washer on end in side hole, add bolt, tighten.

That's the idea, a half moon hole for the nut. Bolt/hole runs into it. my
stretchers are 4"x6" so there will be 4 per = 8 just for the stretchers.
2 per side brace = 6, one side brace is doubled 4"x4" = 4 bolts there.
That one has the end vise going through it on the right side. It is a real
rudimentary and beginner's design.

That is how my bench is held together, two such bolts per joint. What I
would do in future though is seat bearer in slot or if into leg make
mortise and tenon to further resist racking forces.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Thanks,

Layne


Quite the good luck then. What design are you building BTW?

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:YXkee.16092$_K.7529@fed1read03...
brass rod + hacksaw + drill + tap

How large do you need? Enco sells brass rod up to at least 3"D.

I never thought og it that way really, I was thinking of buying brass rod
and having them made. I suppose the rod could be cheap enough. I
wonder if I would have to have the end slit cut by a machinist though,
unless there is an easy method. It would take merely a ton of cutting
and work to do it though. Too much. About 10-12 bench bolts or more.

A 3/4" x 6' alloy 360 brass rod (#505-3721 from Enco for example) is selling
for $22.49 - and thats enough for a /lot/ of cross dowels (assuming 1-1/2"
long parts)

If you have a friend with a horizontal band saw (metal-cutting type), you
just clamp the rod in the saw's vise and flip the switch. I bought HF's
smallest saw (37151-7VGA on sale for $129) and have used it more than I ever
thought I would for cutting (mostly) brass and aluminum for all kinds of
woodworking projects.

A V-block ($10-15/pair) makes drilling rod easy, and hand tapping brass
isn't difficult. I wouldn't bother slitting the end of the cross dowel since
you should be able to turn these larger parts with your fingers. If this is
something you really want to do, it can be done on the same saw (again, a V
block makes it easier.) De-burr/bevel with a belt sander or file.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

AAvK wrote:

Even easier, drill hole for bolt, change to forstner bit, drill at right
angles in long bearer so forstner meets long hole (order may be
reversed). Take chisel, square up forstner hole facing end frame.
Assemble bench using long clamps, insert bolts with large washer under
head, slide washer on end in side hole, add bolt, tighten.

That's the idea, a half moon hole for the nut. Bolt/hole runs into it. my
stretchers are 4"x6" so there will be 4 per = 8 just for the stretchers.
2 per side brace = 6, one side brace is doubled 4"x4" = 4 bolts there.
That one has the end vise going through it on the right side. It is a real
rudimentary and beginner's design.

I have 16, 2 per end of each long stretcher. The end frames are glued
and draw bored (the proper way, not how I've seen Norm do it). The whole
is further stiffened by the addition of a very tightly fitted cabinet
sitting on the bottom stretchers (space on top for clamps etc.) its so
well fitted its held in by two screws, one into each back leg through
the sides).

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country

I have 16, 2 per end of each long stretcher. The end frames are glued
and draw bored (the proper way, not how I've seen Norm do it). The whole
is further stiffened by the addition of a very tightly fitted cabinet
sitting on the bottom stretchers (space on top for clamps etc.) its so
well fitted its held in by two screws, one into each back leg through
the sides).

Peter


I will get there someday, but currently I am a learner and am doing much of
the work by hand. I have used table saws and drill press so far, hand saw
and chisels. I have three blind mortises .5% down into each leg and now it is
fitting time which takes more chisel and hand saw work, low angle block
plane too, for the tenons. I need to sharpen the blade on my shoulder plane
and put that to use.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:

I have 16, 2 per end of each long stretcher. The end frames are glued
and draw bored (the proper way, not how I've seen Norm do it). The whole
is further stiffened by the addition of a very tightly fitted cabinet
sitting on the bottom stretchers (space on top for clamps etc.) its so
well fitted its held in by two screws, one into each back leg through
the sides).

Peter


I will get there someday, but currently I am a learner and am doing much of
the work by hand. I have used table saws and drill press so far, hand saw
and chisels. I have three blind mortises .5% down into each leg and now it is
fitting time which takes more chisel and hand saw work, low angle block
plane too, for the tenons. I need to sharpen the blade on my shoulder plane
and put that to use.

Well you have more tools than I have/had when I built mine. I had a
hardpoint handyman saw, a hardpoint tenon saw, three old mortise chisels
and a circular saw (for the top). I would have killed for a table saw.
Instead of a drill press I had my drill in a device like a router base
that enables it to drill perpendicular holes, most useful for when
drilling the holes in the ends of the long stretchers, not somethiing
you can use a drill press for. Oh, I wore out the hardpoint tenon saw
(the handle worked very loose) this taught me the value of decent tools,
which I now have, though I lust after a decent rip cut tenon saw.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country

On Thu, 5 May 2005 01:48:11 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:


Quite the good luck then. What design are you building BTW?

Something *very* simple. Flat top, rails and legs. Perhaps no vise,
just stops and dog holes (round). Just maybe later I might breakdown
and get a nice vise. I'm thinking of getting a nice size maple cutting
block/workbench top from Anawalt Lumber here in Los Angeles. Good
price and no shipping charges...and it will save me time. When it
comes to making shop furniture I'm admittedly lazy. :-)

Layne

Something *very* simple. Flat top, rails and legs. Perhaps no vise,
just stops and dog holes (round). Just maybe later I might breakdown
and get a nice vise. I'm thinking of getting a nice size maple cutting
block/workbench top from Anawalt Lumber here in Los Angeles. Good
price and no shipping charges...and it will save me time. When it
comes to making shop furniture I'm admittedly lazy. :-)

Layne


Those Veritas wonder dogs and pups should do the job I suspect, and have
been told. You need "something" to clamp with, if you have dog holes.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...45&cat=1,41637

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

On Mon, 9 May 2005 18:39:30 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:

Those Veritas wonder dogs and pups should do the job I suspect, and have
been told. You need "something" to clamp with, if you have dog holes.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...45&cat=1,41637


Yes. That was my thinking exactly. Use a combination of regular dogs
or stop and wonder dogs to hold the workpiece. I'm thinking if I space
the dog holes right I shouldn't have to take too much time clamping
with the wonder dogs. It won't be as fast as a quick release vise, but
may be quicker than the Veritas bench vise. Anyways, I'm not a pro so
time is not of the essence. Economy and simplicity are.

Layne