When blade is fully down on TS (Jet JTAS 10XL) it rests about 3/16
below level of table. That makes it necessary to rout out a spot in a
zero clearance insert blank so it'll be flat (and level) when the
first cut is made. Is this clearance normal?

I've looked at the worm gearing and see no way to adjust it so the
blade is lower in the full down location.

Normal situation on all saws I know of. If you have a 6" or 8" dado
blade set, here's a trick. load only one of the outer blades in the
same spot on the arbor where your other blade will be. Count how many
turns it takes to raise the blade to I/8" below table height. Lower
blade, install insert, hold it down with 2x4 and clamps or your fence
or both, and raise blade (saw running) to previously determined height.
Lower blade, stop saw, swap blades and make your final cut in zc plate.
Be safe, and good luck.

"Tom Banes" wrote in message
...
When blade is fully down on TS (Jet JTAS 10XL) it rests about 3/16
below level of table. That makes it necessary to rout out a spot in a
zero clearance insert blank so it'll be flat (and level) when the
first cut is made. Is this clearance normal?

Yes. Use a smaller blade to make th einitial cut in to a new insert.


I've looked at the worm gearing and see no way to adjust it so the
blade is lower in the full down location.

Yes, but a way around it is to use a smaller diameter blade to start the
slot. say... an 8 inch ( or a circular saw 7 3/4). Be sure the width is the
saame as needed. Go part way up thru the insert the replace with a 10 "
blade and repeat.

Many thanks for the input - must be right 'cause everyone says the
same thing! Plus which it all makes sense. I'll use one of my outboard
dado blades to start the zero clearance cuts. Instruction say they
have a 1/8" kerf, same as the 10" blade, so spacing, etc. shouldn't be
a major issue.

Regards.

I lower my stock throat plate just below the table surface and then put my
new ZCTI on top of it. Clamp it down and raise my 10" blade partly through
the insert. Then I remove the stock insert and put in the ZC one and away I
go.


"Tom Banes" wrote in message
...
Many thanks for the input - must be right 'cause everyone says the
same thing! Plus which it all makes sense. I'll use one of my outboard
dado blades to start the zero clearance cuts. Instruction say they
have a 1/8" kerf, same as the 10" blade, so spacing, etc. shouldn't be
a major issue.

Regards.