I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

TIA

"sidney" wrote in
:

I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone
out there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause
too much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed
kerf?

TIA

One that your local saw blade sharpener recommends and sharpens for that
purpose. Mine sold me one for about $60, including the
penalty^H^H^H^Hsales taxes we Californians pay for the privilege of living
in this shaky land.

YWIA

Patriarch

Use a blade from your dado set.

-Dan

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 17:26:15 -0400, "sidney"
wrote:

I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

TIA

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 17:26:15 -0400, "sidney"
wrote:

I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

I've got a triple-chip Freud on my table saw, and it leaves a pretty
flat bottom on the kerf. If you're not familiar with the triple chip
style, it is similar to a rip blade, but every other tooth has the
corners ground off and is ten thousandths higher than the rip teeth.
The theory is that the triple chip tooth does the hogging out, and the
rip tooth cleans up the kerf. I'm a big fan of them, personally.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 17:26:15 -0400, "sidney"
wrote:

I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone
out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

I've got a triple-chip Freud on my table saw, and it leaves a pretty
flat bottom on the kerf. If you're not familiar with the triple chip
style, it is similar to a rip blade, but every other tooth has the
corners ground off and is ten thousandths higher than the rip teeth.
The theory is that the triple chip tooth does the hogging out, and the
rip tooth cleans up the kerf. I'm a big fan of them, personally.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

I'm familiar with TCG blades. Specifically, which Freud blade are you
describing?

Sid

I've got a triple-chip Freud on my table saw, and it leaves a pretty
flat bottom on the kerf. If you're not familiar with the triple chip
style, it is similar to a rip blade, but every other tooth has the
corners ground off and is ten thousandths higher than the rip teeth.
The theory is that the triple chip tooth does the hogging out, and the
rip tooth cleans up the kerf. I'm a big fan of them, personally.

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

I'm familiar with TCG blades. Specifically, which Freud blade are you
describing?

The one I've got is a 60 tooth Freud industrial "Heavy-Duty
all-purpose" blade with a 10 degree hook. It's got an eighth inch
kerf, and while it doesn't leave a perfectly flat bottom, it's pretty
close. I don't have a saw with a long enough arbor for a dado stack
yet, so I use this one, and make several passes. The two tiny ledges
on either side of the cut come out very easily with a hand file or a
sharp chisel. I cut about 40 dadoes with the thing today (set of
bedside tables in maple and butternut, for the curious), and it worked
like a charm- no chip-out at all.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

Personally, I would use a dado set and have "fingers" the width of the dado
setting.

That said, chipout should not be a concern, as that han be handled with
backer board.

-Steve
"sidney" wrote in message
...
I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

TIA

The Lynn's jig is the bomb man ! I made one too and really like being able
to use my 1/8" blade for any width and any height - in fact, I can do
variable spacing if I want to. Using the standard jig, any error is
cummulative, with the Lynn Jig, you can adjust it out on each finger. I
don't even do any test cuts anymore.

Don

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
Personally, I would use a dado set and have "fingers" the width of the
dado
setting.

That said, chipout should not be a concern, as that han be handled with
backer board.

-Steve
"sidney" wrote in message
...
I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone
out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

TIA

Don,

What blade do you use with your Lynn?

Sid

"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
The Lynn's jig is the bomb man ! I made one too and really like being
able
to use my 1/8" blade for any width and any height - in fact, I can do
variable spacing if I want to. Using the standard jig, any error is
cummulative, with the Lynn Jig, you can adjust it out on each finger. I
don't even do any test cuts anymore.

Don

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
Personally, I would use a dado set and have "fingers" the width of the
dado
setting.

That said, chipout should not be a concern, as that han be handled with
backer board.

-Steve
"sidney" wrote in message
...
I made a Lynn jig for cutting box joints on the table saw. Can anyone
out
there give me a recommmendation for what saw blade to use in this
application? Seems like a rip blade, while flat ground, would cause
too
much chip-out. What other blade would give me a flat-bottomed kerf?

TIA

On Fri, 22 Apr 2005 20:27:18 -0500, "D. J. Dorn"
wrote:

The Lynn's jig is the bomb man ! I made one too and really like being able
to use my 1/8" blade for any width and any height - in fact, I can do
variable spacing if I want to. Using the standard jig, any error is
cummulative, with the Lynn Jig, you can adjust it out on each finger. I
don't even do any test cuts anymore.

Do you have a working link to the jig plans? Everything Google turns
up is not found.

Thanks!

...Joe L

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 15:44:58 GMT, Joe
wrote:


Do you have a working link to the jig plans? Everything Google turns
up is not found.

Found it - Yahoo search turned up http://www.leestyron.com/lynnjig.php

...Joe L

"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
The Lynn's jig is the bomb man ! I made one too and really like being
able
to use my 1/8" blade for any width and any height - in fact, I can do
variable spacing if I want to. Using the standard jig, any error is
cummulative, with the Lynn Jig, you can adjust it out on each finger. I
don't even do any test cuts anymore.



Do any of you guys have the plans for the Lynn's Box Jig? I've googled for
the plans and all of the results point to netexperts which appears to be
defunct. Could someone post them up to a web site somewhere or to the
binaries group for download?

Thanks,

--

-Mike-