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woodworker88
 
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Default Routing and Drilling: What Order?

I am trying to make a custom half-round molding on the router table,
and then drill and counterbore holes for 1/4-20 bolts. I am wondering
what order I should do it in: do I drill first and then rout, risking
tearout on the inside of the holes (their about 5/8" dia) or rout the
half round and then drill, with the holes possibly shifting from side
to side. The holes need to be fairly precise as the bolt connects to a
metal bar that doesn't have much leeway, and the wood has to be fairly
smooth. Any ideas or comments?

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Lew Hodgett
 
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woodworker88 wrote:
I am trying to make a custom half-round molding on the router table,
and then drill and counterbore holes for 1/4-20 bolts. I am wondering
what order I should do it in: do I drill first and then rout, risking
tearout on the inside of the holes (their about 5/8" dia) or rout the
half round and then drill, with the holes possibly shifting from side
to side. The holes need to be fairly precise as the bolt connects to a
metal bar that doesn't have much leeway, and the wood has to be fairly
smooth. Any ideas or comments?


Try drilling the holes first, then fill with a piece of dowel and sand
smooth, then run piece thru router.

Finally, remove remaining dowel piece with a gimlet exposing counter bores.

HTH

Lew

PS: You can always use some varnish as glue to hold dowel in place while
machining, if necessary.

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Phisherman
 
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Bolts in a molding? I'd probably use biscuits, glue and clamp the
molding for a day. Or if you are fastening it to metal use epoxy.
Anyway, one choice would be to drill small holes first, route the
half-round, then countersink.

On 14 Apr 2005 20:17:18 -0700, "woodworker88"
wrote:

I am trying to make a custom half-round molding on the router table,
and then drill and counterbore holes for 1/4-20 bolts. I am wondering
what order I should do it in: do I drill first and then rout, risking
tearout on the inside of the holes (their about 5/8" dia) or rout the
half round and then drill, with the holes possibly shifting from side
to side. The holes need to be fairly precise as the bolt connects to a
metal bar that doesn't have much leeway, and the wood has to be fairly
smooth. Any ideas or comments?


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Chances are good for no tearout over the countersinks. Test on scrap
first. If you're using bearing and a bearing might roll over a hole you
have no choice but to drill after routing.
Notwithstanding, drilling after routing may be a necessity as sanding
and such may reduce the pre countersink diameter.
And to be sure, if your pre drill 1/4" pilots only and follow with
countersinks after routing, (requires piloted countersinks) you will
clean up any tearout created during the rout.
More on routing and drilling?
http://www.patwarner.com

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mac davis
 
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On 14 Apr 2005 20:17:18 -0700, "woodworker88" wrote:

I am trying to make a custom half-round molding on the router table,
and then drill and counterbore holes for 1/4-20 bolts. I am wondering
what order I should do it in: do I drill first and then rout, risking
tearout on the inside of the holes (their about 5/8" dia) or rout the
half round and then drill, with the holes possibly shifting from side
to side. The holes need to be fairly precise as the bolt connects to a
metal bar that doesn't have much leeway, and the wood has to be fairly
smooth. Any ideas or comments?


how about drilling the holes first, and "pinning" them to a piece of scrap with
dowels or toothpicks...
run them through the router using the stock as a jig, then countersink the holes
before mounting?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


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woodworker88
 
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The wood is basically a bumper for a metal object, so it needs to be
strong. On the other hand, the general consensus seems to be the same:
drill pilot holes, then route, then counterbore.
I'll try it on a piece of scrap before I run 8 feet of it.
Thanks everyone for your advice

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woodworker88
 
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Anyone interested in the project this is related to should check out
either:
www.lahsrobotics.org or
http://www.eecs.berkeley.edu/~mseema.../_DSC0108.html
The wood will be a bumper underneath the outside metal frame. The
frame is 1" aluminum square tubing, 1/8" wall.

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