Hello,
I know it should be the most rewarding part of woodworking but I really hate
applying a finish to my projects. I guess because im not very good at it or
don't understand it very well.
I watch Woodworks on DIY and noticed when David Marks applies a tung oil
finish he buffs it with a clean rag immediately after applying it. I was
just wondering if this can be done with polyurethane as well? I tried it and
if I wipe it off right away the rag doesn't stick to the wood. Is this a
good idea to be doing this?
When I just brush it on and leave it , it doesn't come out well at all.
I see drips and runs and brush marks. If wiping off this finish is an option
it will make finishing much more enjoyable for me.
Thank You
Rich Petruso

They sell wiping poly just for this purpose. I make my own all the
time. I use Minwax high resin poly and mix it half and half with
mineral spirits. You have to mix it very well to get it to blend.

Paint it on and wipe it off with a somewhat saturated smooth cloth. I
use old tee shirts.

At this diluted level I do two coats at least 4 hours apart, usually
24. Then very lightly hand sand with 320. Wipe down with spirits. Apply
a third coat. When dry I buff it out a bit w/0000 steel wool and some
good wax.

If the wood is porous, like Pine, I either mix the poly stronger or do
more coats. I still just sand and polish the last two coats.

No runs or brush marks at all. If you are using semi gloss or satin,
make sure not to let it build up in crevices, cracks, etc, or it will
be much glossy-er in those locations. If that does happen, the wool
will remove the gloss with a little elbow grease.

This is the only way I apply poly but I only use poly for plant stands
or table tops or other high use or possibly wet surfaces. Other than
that I like to spray lacquer.

Hi I am a student at Central Michigan University in the Industrial
Technology major. Finishing has always been fun for me since I learned
the basics. First poly and lacquer are top coats. These are made to
protect the finishes under them. Poly is best applied with a brush
since it is thick and takes a long time to dry . Lacquer on the other
hand is best applied with a sprayer. Remember these are top coats.
Tungs oil, oil and water type stains and many penetrating type oils can
be rub immediately, but don't rub poly or lacquer till it dries. let
me know if there are any more questions. Ron EDU 290

Richard J Petruso wrote:
Hello,
I know it should be the most rewarding part of woodworking but I really hate
applying a finish to my projects. I guess because im not very good at it or
don't understand it very well.
I watch Woodworks on DIY and noticed when David Marks applies a tung oil
finish he buffs it with a clean rag immediately after applying it. I was
just wondering if this can be done with polyurethane as well? I tried it and
if I wipe it off right away the rag doesn't stick to the wood. Is this a
good idea to be doing this?
When I just brush it on and leave it , it doesn't come out well at all.
I see drips and runs and brush marks. If wiping off this finish is an option
it will make finishing much more enjoyable for me.
Thank You
Rich Petruso



Use wipe-on polyurethane. It works fine for me. I think it is really
just a thinned down polyurethane -- but other people here may know for
sure. I think ours is by Minwax.

I don't get drips or wipe marks etc.

Then use steel wool to get rid of any dust motes or minor blemishes --
extra fine is what I use -- Then a bit of wax -- Johnsons paste wax for
example.

Polishes up beautifully.

Also had some reasonably good results with Minwax Antique Oil finish.
Not sure what exactly it is -- trade secret I guess. It gives a very
nice wipe on finish as well.

My brushes really aren't used that much any more -- although sometimes I
will brush a finish and then wipe if it is more convenient.

For the wipe on finishes you _MUST_ have a breathing mask with an
organic vapor filter. Your local hardware should be able to supply.

Also -- learn how to dispose of the rags safely. That is _important_.
See a previous thread about a school fire due to finishing rags.

Have fun -- hope this helps.

PS: Don't ever talk about using wipe on poly on cherry wood in this
newsgroup -- it's bad form. The Stain police will get you -- and it's a
life sentence. :-)




--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

wrote:
Hi I am a student at Central Michigan University in the Industrial
Technology major. Finishing has always been fun for me since I learned
the basics. First poly and lacquer are top coats. These are made to
protect the finishes under them. Poly is best applied with a brush
since it is thick and takes a long time to dry . Lacquer on the other
hand is best applied with a sprayer. Remember these are top coats.
Tungs oil, oil and water type stains and many penetrating type oils can
be rub immediately, but don't rub poly or lacquer till it dries. let
me know if there are any more questions. Ron EDU 290


Ron:

We are going to have to teach you about the wipe-on poly that us lazy
old f**ts use. :-)

Just never suggest staining cherry and applying poly or someone in this
group will hunt you down and... I still have scars. :-o

Welcome!


--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

Don't ask us, try it yourself. You will very quickly find out why it is a
dreadful idea.

I use mainly wiping varnish. Much easier, and no drips or runs. Okay, it
takes longer because you have to put on twice as many coats; but it goes
fast.

FWIW, I find commercial wiping varnish works better than homemade; though I
don't know why.

Richard J Petruso wrote:

I see drips and runs and brush marks.

You aren't using the brush properly...

1. Use a *good* natural bristle brush.
2. Flow the finish on. That means move the brush slowly letting the
finish flow from the brush. Too slowly results in too much
finish...takes a bit of practice.
3. Blend from one area to another so you have an equal amount
everywhere. Keep a wet edge.
4. It really helps to have your surface horizontal so the finish
will self-level (no brush marks).
5. It also helps to have a light at a low angle ahead of you so you
can see holidays (missed areas) and drips. If you are getting drips and
runs consistently you are applying too much finish.
______________

If wiping off this finish is an
option it will make finishing much more enjoyable for me.

Sure its an option. Still nice to be able to brush on a nice finish
though...

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Richard J Petruso says...

Hello,
I know it should be the most rewarding part of woodworking but I really hate
applying a finish to my projects. I guess because im not very good at it or
don't understand it very well.
I watch Woodworks on DIY and noticed when David Marks applies a tung oil
finish he buffs it with a clean rag immediately after applying it. I was
just wondering if this can be done with polyurethane as well? I tried it and
if I wipe it off right away the rag doesn't stick to the wood. Is this a
good idea to be doing this?
When I just brush it on and leave it , it doesn't come out well at all.
I see drips and runs and brush marks. If wiping off this finish is an option
it will make finishing much more enjoyable for me.
Thank You
Rich Petruso

His tung oil finish is a mixture with tung oil, linseed oil and
polyurethane. I'm not sure if he makes it or it is a name brand product
that he doesn't want to advertise. Obviously he doesn't intend to build
up a thick film and fill the pores with this technique. You can buy
wipe-on finishes or make your own by taking any brush-on finish and
thinning it to wipe-on consistency. The trick with brushing finishes is
to make your coats as thin as possible, but the thinnest brush-on coat
is still pretty thick. When your brush gets dry, go back over what you
just applied and draw up excess finish and spread it elsewhere. Have
lights placed so that you can see glare off the freshly brushed finish.
This will let you see dry spots as well as runs. If you catch a run
before it sets up, it can easily be removed. I've found that with a
little practice, brushing varnish (including polyurethane) isn't very
difficult at all, but you always have to sand it smooth between coats
because some dust inevitably settles on the varnish and the next coat
needs a rough surface to bond with.

On Wed, 13 Apr 2005 16:24:43 -0400, the inscrutable WillR
spake:

wrote:
Hi I am a student at Central Michigan University in the Industrial
Technology major. Finishing has always been fun for me since I learned
the basics. First poly and lacquer are top coats. These are made to
protect the finishes under them. Poly is best applied with a brush

Poly is best applied to the trash can.


since it is thick and takes a long time to dry . Lacquer on the other
hand is best applied with a sprayer. Remember these are top coats.
Tungs oil, oil and water type stains and many penetrating type oils can
be rub immediately, but don't rub poly or lacquer till it dries. let
me know if there are any more questions. Ron EDU 290

Ron:

We are going to have to teach you about the wipe-on poly that us lazy
old f**ts use. :-)

Please don't start the young'uns off on the wrong foot.
Suggest Waterlox or T&T Varnish Oil instead.


Just never suggest staining cherry and applying poly or someone in this
group will hunt you down and... I still have scars. :-o

"AS WELL YOU SHOULD!" he whispered.



----------------------------------
VIRTUE...is its own punishment
http://www.diversify.com Website Applications
==================================================

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Noh7e.39416$B12.34600@trnddc09...

1. Use a *good* natural bristle brush.

I have achieved good (as good as can be expected with poly-urine-stain)
results with the cheap, dispose of when done, foam brushes available at the
borg. The key is not applying too much finish regardless of what type and
sand/steel wool between coats.

2. Flow the finish on. That means move the brush slowly letting the
finish flow from the brush. Too slowly results in too much
finish...takes a bit of practice.
3. Blend from one area to another so you have an equal amount
everywhere. Keep a wet edge.

Very important

4. It really helps to have your surface horizontal so the finish
will self-level (no brush marks).

Yes, but you should be able to finish vertical surfaces if you are not
applying too much finish.

5. It also helps to have a light at a low angle ahead of you so you
can see holidays (missed areas) and drips. If you are getting drips and
runs consistently you are applying too much finish.

Absolutely

Frank

toller wrote:

Don't ask us, try it yourself. You will very quickly find out why it is a
dreadful idea.

I use mainly wiping varnish. Much easier, and no drips or runs. Okay, it
takes longer because you have to put on twice as many coats; but it goes
fast.

FWIW, I find commercial wiping varnish works better than homemade; though I
don't know why.

I haven't had any problems with homemade wiping varnish. I make my
own by using spar varnish, turps and linseed oil. I mix it in different
proportions depending on what I hope to achieve, but the basic formula
is equal parts of each.

While it's not my favorite finish (shellac and oil/wax finishes
are), it is useful for some things where you need a bit of extra
protection. (For example, I used it on the laminated fishing net I made
recently.) IMHO, the best part of it is that you can easily control
the level of build and the "plasticity" of the finish. Plus, you can
tint it with artists oils if you need to achieve a particular look.


Chuck Vance

Conan The Librarian wrote:

(For example, I used it on the laminated fishing net I made
recently.)

You made a fishing net out of wood? I hope you don't take up
skydiving. ;-)

Ken Muldrew

(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)

Ken Muldrew wrote:

You made a fishing net out of wood? I hope you don't take up
skydiving. ;-)

Silly Canuckistani. I made the *frame* out of wood:
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/net03.jpg

:-)


Chuck Vance

Conan The Librarian wrote:

Silly Canuckistani. I made the *frame* out of wood:
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/net03.jpg

Very nice, but aren't you worried about getting fish slime stuck in
the beading groove?

Suggestion: make a pair and then you'll have a quick conversion to
snowshoes next time you come North.

Ken Muldrew

(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)

Ken Muldrew wrote:

Conan The Librarian wrote:

Silly Canuckistani. I made the *frame* out of wood:
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/net03.jpg

Very nice, but aren't you worried about getting fish slime stuck in
the beading groove?

Well, yeah ... but I'd have to *catch* a fish first.

Suggestion: make a pair and then you'll have a quick conversion to
snowshoes next time you come North.

Heh, you guys all think alike. SWMBO thought I *was* making
snowshoes. :-)


Chuck Vance

What Marks is using is a product called "Arm-R-Seal" It is the perfect
finish for those of us with out the talent/area or inclination. I've used
it almost exclusively for years...a great finish.

Schroeder


"Richard J Petruso" wrote in message
...
Hello,
I know it should be the most rewarding part of woodworking but I really
hate
applying a finish to my projects. I guess because im not very good at it
or
don't understand it very well.
I watch Woodworks on DIY and noticed when David Marks applies a tung oil
finish he buffs it with a clean rag immediately after applying it.

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 14:07:30 -0500, the inscrutable Conan The
Librarian spake:

Heh, you guys all think alike. SWMBO thought I *was* making
snowshoes. :-)

"No, dear. They're not snowshoes. It so happens that I'll be playing
tennis with the trout next week and..."


--
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free
than Christianity has made them good." --H. L. Mencken
---
www.diversify.com Complete Website Development

Don't ask us, try it yourself. You will very quickly find out why it is a
dreadful idea.

I use mainly wiping varnish. Much easier, and no drips or runs. Okay, it
takes longer because you have to put on twice as many coats; but it goes
fast.

FWIW, I find commercial wiping varnish works better than homemade; though I
don't know why.