Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but have
made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them) with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that each
end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16" round
end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I cut the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride on for
the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I cannot use a
fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves to them that
need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here would be MOST
welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Guide pin in the router table maybe?

TMC wrote:

Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but
have made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them)
with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that
each end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16"
round end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I
cut the radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride
on for the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I
cannot use a fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves
to them that need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here would
be MOST welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Would a dowel maker work. You know the kind that looks like an overgrown
pencil sharpener. Checkout the following:

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2734

Deb

Deb,
I wish I had seen those sooner..or at least realized what was to come.
I've already drilled all the holes at the 7/16" required measurement, and
the dowel makers there do not come in that size. Excellent tip for the next
time though!
Even after a call to the people who made the plans, their suugestion was
the same as my own-double face tape a template to each piece and rout it
with the standard bit!! Thats a lot of taping and un-taping as I have about
70 pieces to do...thanks for the tip though.


"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...
TMC wrote:

Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture
for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but
have made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them)
with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that
each end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16"
round end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I
cut the radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to
ride
on for the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I
cannot use a fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves
to them that need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here
would
be MOST welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Would a dowel maker work. You know the kind that looks like an overgrown
pencil sharpener. Checkout the following:

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2734

Deb

You could do it on a router table using the fence as a guide or the best way
I think is to buy a bull nose bit.

TMC says...

Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but have
made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them) with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that each
end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16" round
end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I cut the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride on for
the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I cannot use a
fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves to them that
need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here would be MOST
welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Unless you are making dowels, then there will always be a long side,
right? The long side goes against the bearing, not the part already
rounded.

Perhaps make a sled that has the same curves as your parts, and use a
bearing that will ride along the sled.


TMC wrote:
Deb,
I wish I had seen those sooner..or at least realized what was to
come.
I've already drilled all the holes at the 7/16" required measurement,
and
the dowel makers there do not come in that size. Excellent tip for
the next
time though!
Even after a call to the people who made the plans, their
suugestion was
the same as my own-double face tape a template to each piece and rout
it
with the standard bit!! Thats a lot of taping and un-taping as I have
about
70 pieces to do...thanks for the tip though.


"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...
TMC wrote:

Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of
furniture
for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker
but
have made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of
them)
with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so
that
each end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a
7/16"
round end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already
drilled). If I
cut the radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface
to
ride
on for the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided
radius. I
cannot use a fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have
curves
to them that need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang
here
would
be MOST welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Would a dowel maker work. You know the kind that looks like an
overgrown
pencil sharpener. Checkout the following:


http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2734

Deb

TMC says...

Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but have
made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them) with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that each
end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16" round
end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I cut the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride on for
the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I cannot use a
fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves to them that
need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here would be MOST
welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Or if I wasn't picturing things right in my other post, you could use
guide pins. But the pin setup would be different for the inner and
outer curves and it would only work if the curve was a radius, not if it
was elliptical. If it is elliptical, then you could do it with a
pattern and bushing setup.

On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 10:31:32 GMT, "TMC"
wrote:

If I cut the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride on for
the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius.

Use a fence. It'll work and you don't even need the bearing (although
it doesn't hurt)

TMC wrote:
Deb,
I wish I had seen those sooner..or at least realized what was to come.
I've already drilled all the holes at the 7/16" required measurement, and
the dowel makers there do not come in that size. Excellent tip for the next
time though!
Even after a call to the people who made the plans, their suugestion was
the same as my own-double face tape a template to each piece and rout it
with the standard bit!! Thats a lot of taping and un-taping as I have about
70 pieces to do...thanks for the tip though.


"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...

TMC wrote:


Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture
for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but
have made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them)
with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that
each end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16"
round end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I
cut the radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to
ride
on for the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I
cannot use a fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves
to them that need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here
would
be MOST welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Would a dowel maker work. You know the kind that looks like an overgrown
pencil sharpener. Checkout the following:

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2734

Deb




Veritas mini tenon cutter
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...80,42288,45539
Joe

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 10:31:32 GMT, "TMC"
wrote:

If I cut the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride
on for the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius.

Use a fence. It'll work and you don't even need the bearing (although
it doesn't hurt)

Except his parts are curved, can't ride on a fence.

I vote for the bullnose bit suggestion...don't much like them because if
the piece moves up/down any it gets messed up but that's about it other
than attaching each of his numerous pieces to a template.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 17:52:08 GMT, "dadiOH" wrote:

Use a fence. It'll work and you don't even need the bearing (although
it doesn't hurt)

Except his parts are curved, can't ride on a fence.

Use a suitable fence. The standard refs www.patwarner.com ought to
describe this.

One way (for big curved parts) is a "horseshoe" fence. This is a
C-shaped bracket around the cutter, with two projecting fingers that
guide the workpiece.

The better way for this might be a "sunken fence". Fasten a thick
solid false false to your existing fence, then feed it through the
cutter until there's a narrow cutout fitting closely around the
cutter.

Watch for cutter snatch when working around the ends of these bars.
It's probably best placing a removable pin in the table too, ahead of
the cutter, and using this as a fulcrum to control things.

increase the diameter of your bearing for the second pass


"TMC" wrote in message
...
Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but
have
made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them)
with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that
each
end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16" round
end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I cut
the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride on for
the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I cannot use
a
fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves to them that
need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here would be MOST
welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

A vacume jig would eliminate the tediaum of taping. Check out either of
Hylton's books: Wood Working With the Router, or Router Magic for details.

TMC wrote:

Deb,
I wish I had seen those sooner..or at least realized what was to come.
I've already drilled all the holes at the 7/16" required measurement, and
the dowel makers there do not come in that size. Excellent tip for the next
time though!
Even after a call to the people who made the plans, their suugestion was
the same as my own-double face tape a template to each piece and rout it
with the standard bit!! Thats a lot of taping and un-taping as I have about
70 pieces to do...thanks for the tip though.


"Dr. Deb" wrote in message
...

TMC wrote:


Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture
for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but
have made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them)
with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that
each end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16"
round end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I
cut the radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to
ride
on for the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I
cannot use a fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves
to them that need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here
would
be MOST welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!

Tim

Would a dowel maker work. You know the kind that looks like an overgrown
pencil sharpener. Checkout the following:

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2734

Deb