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HMFIC@1369
 
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Default ANYONE Use Kreg (or anybody elses) Pocket screw guides???

looking for some tips?


  #2   Report Post  
max
 
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No tips needed. The Kreg jig works perfectly. I bought the deluxe kit which
has the plastic one instead of the aluminum jig but it is guaranteed for
life and works perfectly.
max

looking for some tips?



  #3   Report Post  
CW
 
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Clamp parts securely when assembling. They WILL move.

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:Suc6e.2121$ha3.1020@trndny02...
looking for some tips?




  #4   Report Post  
JJM
 
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I have used my deluxe kit for about a year now and never had an issue.
Just remember to use the proper screw for the material

coarse screws for soft woods
fine screws for hard woods

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:28:34 GMT, "HMFIC@1369" wrote:

looking for some tips?


  #5   Report Post  
Wilson Lamb
 
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AMEN!
Using the visegrip clamp, put the large pad on the front side of the work,
with the hingepin in the pad at right angles to the joint, if possible.
Wilson
"CW" wrote in message
...
Clamp parts securely when assembling. They WILL move.

"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:Suc6e.2121$ha3.1020@trndny02...
looking for some tips?








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firstjois
 
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HMFIC@1369 wrote:
looking for some tips?


You may be able to permanently secure the jig to a workbench or work
surface in your shop, a friend with a large shop and 3 workbenches did do
this but I have clamped the jig to a perpendicular shelf support where it
takes up no work surface at all. Haven't had to move it so far.

I have dedicated an plug-in drill for this use so I don't have to think
about batteries and when they were last charged.

Josie


  #7   Report Post  
TOM
 
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Best tip: go to the Kreg site and print the information on screws, screw
lengths,
and drill depths. Very helpful. It used to be buried, but now there's a link
from the home page.

http://kregtool.com/screws_product_page.asp


-- Tom





"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:Suc6e.2121$ha3.1020@trndny02...
looking for some tips?




  #8   Report Post  
Stephen Henry
 
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HMFIC@1369 wrote:

looking for some tips?




Make sure you're using a fast drill. 2000RPM at least. That pretty
much rules out cordless drills. Keep the bit sharp. I have a few so I
can send two at a time back to Kreg to be sharpened. ($4 for the first
bit, $2 each additional.)

-Steve


--

BargainBirch.com
The Internet's lowest prices on Baltic Birch plywood
http://www.BargainBirch.com/commerce...cPath=21?ad=ng
  #9   Report Post  
Jody
 
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HMFIC@1369 wrote:
looking for some tips?


Another good tip is get the right angle clamp. One side has the big pad
on it, the other is a pin that fits in the pocket hole. Very good if you
do case work to hold the faceframes on.
  #10   Report Post  
Morris Dovey
 
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Stephen Henry wrote:
HMFIC@1369 wrote:

looking for some tips?


Make sure you're using a fast drill. 2000RPM at least. That
pretty much rules out cordless drills. Keep the bit sharp. I
have a few so I can send two at a time back to Kreg to be
sharpened. ($4 for the first bit, $2 each additional.)


Steve has provided two good tips here. I got good results with a
3000RPM corded drill - and get even better results with a faster
(inexpensive) air-powered drill from HF.

I also have two pair of bits - it does help to keep 'em sharp!

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html


  #11   Report Post  
TB
 
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I bought the mini Kreg kit a few months ago from Lee Valley for a job
that I did. The only regret that I have is that I didn't buy the
complete Kreg K2000 Jig. IMO it is an excellent product.
  #12   Report Post  
Unquestionably Confused
 
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TB wrote:
I bought the mini Kreg kit a few months ago from Lee Valley for a job
that I did. The only regret that I have is that I didn't buy the
complete Kreg K2000 Jig. IMO it is an excellent product.


I've been meaning to purchase one of these jigs/tools and this thread
pushed me over the edge - not that it takes all that muchg

Did some checking and found the best price for the K2000 PP at
www.coastaltool.com $132.50 which includes the $22.50 value screw
sampler pack as a bonus. Seemed that overall their prices for all of
the Kreg line were quite reasonable and they don't gouge on shipping. I
ordered some other items which ran the total to over $215 and the UPS
ground charge was still only $7.50.

  #13   Report Post  
Dave Hinz
 
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On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 17:52:14 GMT, max wrote:
No tips needed. The Kreg jig works perfectly. I bought the deluxe kit which
has the plastic one instead of the aluminum jig but it is guaranteed for
life and works perfectly.


Same here. Use it for some things (face frames mostly), like it alot.
"It just works". Long as you keep things cut square and clamped well
while putting the screws in, there's nothing to go wrong.

Dave Hinz

  #14   Report Post  
HMFIC@1369
 
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I purchased the R2 model. It seems to do exactly what I need it to do. But I
think eventually I'll get the kitchen sink model!

Thanks All!


"TOM" wrote in message
news:6Xk6e.14867$qO6.6410@trnddc05...
Best tip: go to the Kreg site and print the information on screws, screw
lengths,
and drill depths. Very helpful. It used to be buried, but now there's a

link
from the home page.

http://kregtool.com/screws_product_page.asp


-- Tom





"HMFIC@1369" wrote in message
news:Suc6e.2121$ha3.1020@trndny02...
looking for some tips?






  #15   Report Post  
SonomaProducts.com
 
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Clamp the pieces down to the table with the majority of the clamp
surface on the piece being connected too. This way the faces stay even
and the piece being screwed down can synch down as you drill.

The Kreg and other benchtop type systems drill at 12-15 degrees and
that can cause the piece being screwed to want to climb up a little
during screwing (I do the same thing).

The Castle or other machine router/drill combo types make 6 degree
pockets but even then the joint wants to climb if you don't clamp.

Final tip is for stronger joints you can use longer screws if the
material will accomodate. I use normal split tip type wood screws for
this vs pockets screws without any perceptable problems.



  #16   Report Post  
HMFIC@1369
 
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Thanks looks like a lot of good recommendations, I'll be sure to accommodate
them!!

Joe

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
ups.com...
Clamp the pieces down to the table with the majority of the clamp
surface on the piece being connected too. This way the faces stay even
and the piece being screwed down can synch down as you drill.

The Kreg and other benchtop type systems drill at 12-15 degrees and
that can cause the piece being screwed to want to climb up a little
during screwing (I do the same thing).

The Castle or other machine router/drill combo types make 6 degree
pockets but even then the joint wants to climb if you don't clamp.

Final tip is for stronger joints you can use longer screws if the
material will accomodate. I use normal split tip type wood screws for
this vs pockets screws without any perceptable problems.



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