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Dan White
 
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Default Newbie question on cutting beadboard

Hi. I have to cut 4x8 sheets of beadboard with a fine toothed circular saw.
If I'm not mistaken the blade rotates from below the sheet upward as I go
forward (is this right?). Anyway, if I want a clean cut on the front of the
beadboard should I cut with it up or down?

thanks,
dwhite


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Fly-by-Night CC
 
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In article ,
"Dan White" wrote:

Hi. I have to cut 4x8 sheets of beadboard with a fine toothed circular saw.
If I'm not mistaken the blade rotates from below the sheet upward as I go
forward (is this right?). Anyway, if I want a clean cut on the front of the
beadboard should I cut with it up or down?


With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with table
saws you'd have the good side up.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
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Dan White
 
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"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message
news

With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with table
saws you'd have the good side up.
--


OK, thanks!

dwhite


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Patriarch
 
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Fly-by-Night CC wrote in
news
In article ,
"Dan White" wrote:

Hi. I have to cut 4x8 sheets of beadboard with a fine toothed
circular saw. If I'm not mistaken the blade rotates from below the
sheet upward as I go forward (is this right?). Anyway, if I want a
clean cut on the front of the beadboard should I cut with it up or
down?


With a hand-held circular saw the general advice is to have the good
side down (your understanding of the mechanics is right on); with
table saws you'd have the good side up.


A sheet of rigid foam insulation (sacrifical) under the sheet you're
cutting (then laid on the ground or floor) is said to help as well. The
beadply is then better supported, and less prone to splintering as well.

How's the deli coming?

Patriarch
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Patriarch
 
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"Dan White" wrote in
:

snip
How's the deli coming?

Patriarch


Yes, I'd heard that one and then cheaped out as the foam was about
$25. Maybe I wasn't looking at the right thing. I think I'll just
try to cut it on a counter edge with some help holding the cutoff
piece and see how that goes.

Anyway I'm done with all the major cutting and screwing stuff. It is
coming together very nicely if I say so. Maybe I'll post some pics if
anyone cares. I have to warn you, though, to be prepared to see lots
of heavily polyurethaned hard maple counters! I think they look
great, and hopefully will stand up to normal wear and tear.

thanks!
dwhite


I never thought the poly was correctly a religious thing. It certainly has
its place, and kitchens are quite often that place.

There have been a number of active threads on kitchens lately, so I imagine
that there would be interest on your project as well.

And on the beadply, you may want to at least invest in a sharp blade for
the circular saw. That should help, and not break the bank.

Patriarch


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Dan White
 
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"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...

And on the beadply, you may want to at least invest in a sharp blade for
the circular saw. That should help, and not break the bank.


I got a 140 tooth blade, which cut a piece of ply like butter. Should work
well on the beadboard.

dwhite


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