I have a question for you woodworking experts, especially those who make log
furniture.

I'm trying to cut up apple tree branches that are about the thickness of a
baseball bat with my Makita miter saw (I'm cutting them into smaller chunks
to use as wood for meat smoking ... but you don't want to use a chainsaw
because then chain oil would get on the wood). Nine out of 10 times the
miter saw cuts the small log into cross sections just fine, but about 10% of
the cuts I hit a knot and it totally stops the saw blade -- sometimes
jambing it. There are a lot of knots that are hidden in these branches, so
you can't really avoid them. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with
the saw, and I've heard of others having similar problems using miter saws
to cut through freshly cut small logs.

I don't want to buy a new band saw or new power tool or anything, so I was
hoping to find a way to cut these branches using the miter saw. Is that
possible? Anyone have any tips? The miter saw blade I have on now is a
multi-purpose carbide-tipped blade with big teeth. Would a blade with
smaller teeth that are closer together be able to cut through any and all
knots? Anyone have any suggestions?

--
DK

You probably just need to jut slower. Yes a finer blade will cross cut
better however this saw was not designed at all for this operation.
It's likely safe but just not efficient.

I'm not sure the chain oil would really be that much of an issue but to
each is own. If you did want a different tool I might suggest a sawzall
for this operation.

"DK" wrote in message
...
I have a question for you woodworking experts, especially those who make
log furniture.

I'm trying to cut up apple tree branches that are about the thickness of
a baseball bat with my Makita miter saw (I'm cutting them into smaller
chunks to use as wood for meat smoking ... but you don't want to use a
chainsaw because then chain oil would get on the wood). Nine out of 10
times the miter saw cuts the small log into cross sections just fine, but
about 10% of the cuts I hit a knot and it totally stops the saw blade --
sometimes jambing it. There are a lot of knots that are hidden in these
branches, so you can't really avoid them. There doesn't seem to be
anything wrong with the saw, and I've heard of others having similar
problems using miter saws to cut through freshly cut small logs.

I don't want to buy a new band saw or new power tool or anything, so I was
hoping to find a way to cut these branches using the miter saw. Is that
possible? Anyone have any tips? The miter saw blade I have on now is a
multi-purpose carbide-tipped blade with big teeth. Would a blade with
smaller teeth that are closer together be able to cut through any and all
knots? Anyone have any suggestions?

--
DK

I'd be inclined to buy a $10 bow saw at Home Depot and do them by hand...
I've had one of those saws for over 30 years and have found it to be a
wonderful tool that cuts fast on green branches. I prune my fruit trees with
my saw so I know it works on fruit tree branches. ;-) Alternatively, a 12"
blade in a Tiger Saw works pretty good also.

John

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
You probably just need to jut slower.

I always jut in time with music.
To each his own.

"DK" wrote in message
...
I have a question for you woodworking experts, especially those who make
log furniture.

I'm trying to cut up apple tree branches that are about the thickness of
a baseball bat with my Makita miter saw (I'm cutting them into smaller
chunks to use as wood for meat smoking ... but you don't want to use a
chainsaw because then chain oil would get on the wood).

I use the bandsaw. You can buy chain oil that is vegetable based and would
be OK to use for smoking. You can also use the sawdust from the saw. Do
your cutting over a small tarp to gather it up. Sawdust is good for cold
smoking with a hotplate as it will smoke easier than chunks. You can see
what I do on my web page.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

Not to ask a silly question, but how old and what kind of blade are you
using? A sharpening maybe? Perhaps a 10 inch blade in the 12 inch saw
to get a bit more speed behind the cut?

A 10" blade will have lower tip speed than a 12". Maybe you were
thinking about reducing the load on the motor?

Bob

What's probably happening is the branch is bending and binding the blade. I
agree with Ed about using a bandsaw. If this is not an option, make a
support fixture for the branches to prevent blade binding.

Dave


"DK" wrote in message
...
I have a question for you woodworking experts, especially those who make
log furniture.

I'm trying to cut up apple tree branches that are about the thickness of
a baseball bat with my Makita miter saw (I'm cutting them into smaller
chunks to use as wood for meat smoking ... but you don't want to use a
chainsaw because then chain oil would get on the wood). Nine out of 10
times the miter saw cuts the small log into cross sections just fine, but
about 10% of the cuts I hit a knot and it totally stops the saw blade --
sometimes jambing it. There are a lot of knots that are hidden in these
branches, so you can't really avoid them. There doesn't seem to be
anything wrong with the saw, and I've heard of others having similar
problems using miter saws to cut through freshly cut small logs.

I don't want to buy a new band saw or new power tool or anything, so I was
hoping to find a way to cut these branches using the miter saw. Is that
possible? Anyone have any tips? The miter saw blade I have on now is a
multi-purpose carbide-tipped blade with big teeth. Would a blade with
smaller teeth that are closer together be able to cut through any and all
knots? Anyone have any suggestions?

--
DK





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"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...
What's probably happening is the branch is bending and binding the blade.
I
agree with Ed about using a bandsaw. If this is not an option, make a
support fixture for the branches to prevent blade binding.


With irregularly-shaped pieces, hold _down_ to the base of the saw, not in
toward the fence. As you release some tension by beginning the saw kerf,
the branch will deform, jamming the blade.

Same-o for radial arm where the board has a bow or twist. Touch the rear
fence to steady, but hold flat to the table to keep it from jumping and
jamming.

Good theory, but I checked and it's definitely getting jambed in the knots
and the log isn't bending or binding. Certain knots will stop the blade
cold.

--
DK

"DK" wrote in :

Good theory, but I checked and it's definitely getting jambed in the
knots and the log isn't bending or binding. Certain knots will stop
the blade cold.


Then you need a sawzall, a band saw, or a chain saw. The miter saw is the
wrong tool for the job.

Patriarch

I did some experimenting and found that I must have been in too big of a
hurry. I tried it again and when I lowered the miter saw blade slowly, there
was no blade jambing or no bucking, even in the spots with lots of knots.
Thanks everyone for the tips!

--
DK

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:45:16 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote something
.......and in reply I say!:

Unless you know that these are OK for food prep, I would be very
careful about saying that something is vegetable based and therefore
OK for food preparation. Brake fluid comes to mind. I think some of
those are vegetable based, and can be pretty evil.

I use the bandsaw. You can buy chain oil that is vegetable based and would
be OK to use for smoking. You can also use the sawdust from the saw. Do
your cutting over a small tarp to gather it up. Sawdust is good for cold
smoking with a hotplate as it will smoke easier than chunks. You can see
what I do on my web page.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/



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Whenever you have to prove to yourself that you are
not something, you probably are.

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remove ns from my header address to reply via email

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_/ )
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"Old Nick" wrote in message
news:425348ff.339521683@localhost...
On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:45:16 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote something
......and in reply I say!:

Unless you know that these are OK for food prep, I would be very
careful about saying that something is vegetable based and therefore
OK for food preparation. Brake fluid comes to mind. I think some of
those are vegetable based, and can be pretty evil.


I would not mention it if I did not know. Brake fluid is not used for
cutting wood or cooking food.

"DK" wrote in message ...
I did some experimenting and found that I must have been in too big of a
hurry. I tried it again and when I lowered the miter saw blade slowly,
there
was no blade jambing or no bucking, even in the spots with lots of knots.
Thanks everyone for the tips!


Cut, don't chop, always the best policy. That's why it's not an axe, I
guess.

Replace the blade with a sharp one, or maybe the blade is just in
backwards...

In article , DK wrote:
because then chain oil would get on the wood). Nine out of 10 times the
miter saw cuts the small log into cross sections just fine, but about 10% of

"DK" wrote in message
...
I have a question for you woodworking experts, especially those who make
log
furniture.

I'm trying to cut up apple tree branches that are about the thickness of
a
baseball bat with my Makita miter saw (I'm cutting them into smaller
chunks
to use as wood for meat smoking ... but you don't want to use a chainsaw
because then chain oil would get on the wood). Nine out of 10 times the
miter saw cuts the small log into cross sections just fine, but about 10%
of
the cuts I hit a knot and it totally stops the saw blade -- sometimes
jambing it. There are a lot of knots that are hidden in these branches, so
you can't really avoid them. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with
the saw, and I've heard of others having similar problems using miter saws
to cut through freshly cut small logs.

I don't want to buy a new band saw or new power tool or anything, so I was
hoping to find a way to cut these branches using the miter saw. Is that
possible? Anyone have any tips? The miter saw blade I have on now is a
multi-purpose carbide-tipped blade with big teeth. Would a blade with
smaller teeth that are closer together be able to cut through any and all
knots? Anyone have any suggestions?

--
DK



I use my sawzall (reciprocating saw?) to cut green wood such as you are
trying to do.
You might try a different blade on your miter saw, but that saw is not made
for cutting green banches.
Do be carefull.....

Craig

DK wrote:

Anyone have any tips?

At the risk of sounding like a smart-ass, have you considered
cutting where there is no knot?

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

DK:

Your saw is fine. Cutting green wood is a chore using any method (with
the exception of a chain saw), even hand saws will bind. The problem
is bracing... keeping the log from moving while the blade rips through
it is what's causing you the trouble. I use wedge scraps. As you
know, every cut changes the position of the remaining stock. When I
position a non-uniform board (or branch) on my saw's table, I'll push
some wedge scraps (shims) around the top (fence) and bottom table to
create a solid seat for the stock. This way, neither you nor the pill
of the blade permits the stock to move - thus solving the blade binding
problem.

Good luck...and watch those fingers :-)

Log Man

www.LogFurnitureDirectory.com/
Directory of log and rustic furniture manufacturers, companies,
craftsman and retailers in the United States and Canada. The most
complete log and rustic furniture directory online (or off).