I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

"10sc" wrote: My wood "bounces" as I shave it.(clip) Even though the point
for each lathe end is in the middle of the X, there is still a small but
noticeable wobble in my piece.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If the piece is long and slender, you are going to have trouble on the
middle unsupported part. This can be made worse if the piece is not
straight. The solution would be to use a "steady rest," but, since you are
just starting out, I suggest, instead, that you work on shorter pieces.
(i.e., instead of table legs, make candle holders.)

As far as centering the ends is concerned, the procedure you describe is
correct. If you center the spur drive and tail stock center, the wood
should run true. If you are not getting it perfectly centered, of course,
there will be a little wobble at first. But it should true up as you remove
wood. If this is not happening, check to see whether something on the lathe
is bent.

Leo's advice is good (as usual). Something I do differently, though...

If you do flat work, you probably have a marking gage. If so, and if
you are starting out with square blanks (or near square) set the marking
gage to slightly over half the width of the blanks. Then make 4 marks,
one from each side, on an end. That will give you a small square in the
middle and from there it is easy to eyeball a mark (with an awl) in the
center of the small square. I find that finding the real corners of the
blank (the 'x' method) can be difficult and just a little error causes
problems. My way is far more accurate -- in my hands at least.

Bill

Leo Lichtman wrote:
"10sc" wrote: My wood "bounces" as I shave it.(clip) Even though the point
for each lathe end is in the middle of the X, there is still a small but
noticeable wobble in my piece.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If the piece is long and slender, you are going to have trouble on the
middle unsupported part. This can be made worse if the piece is not
straight. The solution would be to use a "steady rest," but, since you are
just starting out, I suggest, instead, that you work on shorter pieces.
(i.e., instead of table legs, make candle holders.)

As far as centering the ends is concerned, the procedure you describe is
correct. If you center the spur drive and tail stock center, the wood
should run true. If you are not getting it perfectly centered, of course,
there will be a little wobble at first. But it should true up as you remove
wood. If this is not happening, check to see whether something on the lathe
is bent.

It sounds like you are turning spindles, like spokes, handles, etc. A
rule of thumb is 10 to 1 ratio. A spindle that is 10 inches long needs
to be 1 inch in diameter, or it will start to vibrate, or wobble,
because that is how much mass it needs to be steady. There are some
tricks to turning thinner than that ratio, such as a steady rest. Play
around for a while, get some books, find a local club, have fun.
robo hippy
















Bill Rubenstein wrote:
Leo's advice is good (as usual). Something I do differently,
though...

If you do flat work, you probably have a marking gage. If so, and if

you are starting out with square blanks (or near square) set the
marking
gage to slightly over half the width of the blanks. Then make 4
marks,
one from each side, on an end. That will give you a small square in
the
middle and from there it is easy to eyeball a mark (with an awl) in
the
center of the small square. I find that finding the real corners of
the
blank (the 'x' method) can be difficult and just a little error
causes
problems. My way is far more accurate -- in my hands at least.

Bill

Leo Lichtman wrote:
"10sc" wrote: My wood "bounces" as I shave it.(clip) Even though
the point
for each lathe end is in the middle of the X, there is still a
small but
noticeable wobble in my piece.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If the piece is long and slender, you are going to have trouble on
the
middle unsupported part. This can be made worse if the piece is
not
straight. The solution would be to use a "steady rest," but, since
you are
just starting out, I suggest, instead, that you work on shorter
pieces.
(i.e., instead of table legs, make candle holders.)

As far as centering the ends is concerned, the procedure you
describe is
correct. If you center the spur drive and tail stock center, the
wood
should run true. If you are not getting it perfectly centered, of
course,
there will be a little wobble at first. But it should true up as
you remove
wood. If this is not happening, check to see whether something on
the lathe
is bent.

From one newbie to another...

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
Leo's advice is good (as usual). Something I do differently, though...

If you do flat work, you probably have a marking gage. If so, and if
you are starting out with square blanks (or near square) set the marking
gage to slightly over half the width of the blanks. Then make 4 marks,
one from each side, on an end. That will give you a small square in the
middle and from there it is easy to eyeball a mark (with an awl) in the
center of the small square. I find that finding the real corners of the
blank (the 'x' method) can be difficult and just a little error causes
problems. My way is far more accurate -- in my hands at least.

Bill


I do a variation of Bill's method using a 90/45 deg. Stanley square --
quickly cycling through the corners and drawing a line.. A little square
usually develops as he noted.

The last few spindles I did were 1" and 3/4 " max. diameter and 15" in
length to 16" in length -- so probably a little "thin". They definitely
developed some middle area wobble.

You might also try taking care to remove wood in a symmetric fashion on
these small spindles. I did not take the time to make accurate estimates
of wobble after deciding to do this (no wood to waste) but I believe
that it helps despite the lack of measurements to back up my guesswork.

So even during the roughing phase now, my first step is to get a
symmetric, round blank as quickly as possible -- then I actually feel
for vibration along the blank. If I have any -- it is not as symmetric
as I would like...

As the piece becomes "smoother" I increase the speed of rotation as well.

The while roughing out the form -- again I try to move from side to side
and keep it symmetric.

The in the finishing phase -- the same exercise. It _seems_ to help.

Use a "smoothing stick". This is just a rectangular piece of wood of
wood - the same length approx. as the decorative portion of the spindle.
You apply crayon - apply it against the entire decorative portion and
check for high spots by applying it to the "round" blank.

Note that I keep the mating surfaces (or "waste areas" on candle sticks)
at the end a little lower always than the decorative portion. They are
going to be smaller anyway, and then my smoothing stick does not whack
on the ends and get flung at me.

Before turning every piece I plane the bottom edge of the stick to
restore the smooth surface, then add the crayon.

This method is mentioned in some of the turning books -- but most don't
go into enough detail on how to get the most utility from the tool. IMO

As for the remaining 63 crayons in the box? My SWOB says I can use them
to compose my philosophical postings and to draft business letters and
business proposals. So nothing is wasted. Now I just need a crayon
sharpener so they make a good impression...

There are other issues on spindles. This is _Very Important_ . (... and
any old timer who giggles will be hunted down and whacked with a wet,
slimy noodle.)


1. If the spindle is going to be mated to anything (stuck into another
spindle, table leg etc...) _Check your available drill sizes._ I assumed
-- only once -- that I could adjust to whatever size I spun on the
lathe. Oooopss! A micrometer is your friend when you do the "end pieces"
where you will mate it with something. Use a micrometer, take your time
and get _exactly_ the desired result. Say 1/2 or 3/4 inches -- with the
tiniest of tapers so it mates in your drill hole.

2. Pay _real close attention_ to determining the total length of the
center area versus the length of the mating areas at the end. Have you
allowed for some variance in _all_ the pieces? The safest thing is that
the centre decorative portion be a "little" shorter than actually
required, and that the mating cylinders at the end be a little longer.
Then you can adjust things at the dry-fit stage.

Note that in Item 2 if you make a 1/8 error on each spindle _end_ - that
is a 1/4 inch error per spindle, and a 1 inch error on a 4 spindle
design that "circles" the bottom of the chair.

These last points may of course be far less important on lamps and
candle stick holders -- unless you have mating pieces.


The above points are more about design, but even when following a plan
you can give yourself some wiggle room by a bit of advance planning.



Hope that helps as well.

You can see my setup on my web site -- see sig at end.


Leo Lichtman wrote:

"10sc" wrote: My wood "bounces" as I shave it.(clip) Even though the
point for each lathe end is in the middle of the X, there is still a
small but noticeable wobble in my piece.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If the piece is long and slender, you are going to have trouble on the
middle unsupported part. This can be made worse if the piece is not
straight. The solution would be to use a "steady rest," but, since
you are just starting out, I suggest, instead, that you work on
shorter pieces. (i.e., instead of table legs, make candle holders.)

As far as centering the ends is concerned, the procedure you describe
is correct. If you center the spur drive and tail stock center, the
wood should run true. If you are not getting it perfectly centered,
of course, there will be a little wobble at first. But it should true
up as you remove wood. If this is not happening, check to see whether
something on the lathe is bent.



--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
http://woodwork.pmccl.com

Bill Rubenstein wrote:
If you do flat work, you probably have a marking gage. If so, and if
you are starting out with square blanks (or near square) set the marking
gage to slightly over half the width of the blanks. Then make 4 marks,
one from each side, on an end. That will give you a small square in the
middle and from there it is easy to eyeball a mark (with an awl) in the
center of the small square.

This is the method I use for both speed and accuracy. I would add though
that it DOES work for pieces that AREN'T square. It will find the center
that gives the largest possible circle.

One thing that may cause Martin's work to be off center is that the
points may wander off when the wood is mounted between centers. But from
Martins comment that the effect is worse in the middle, I would guess
there is too much tailstock pressure being applied and the spindle is
bowing. When making spurtles ( length:diameter ratio = 25:1) I use a
chuck to drive it and apply minimal tailstock presure.

The other thing is that with only two weeks unguided experience I doubt
that Martin has yet learnt to use the tools with the finesse and empathy
that is required for this type of work. Keep at it Martin, and get some
help!

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/

OUCH! Derek I think you hit it right on the head (at least part of my
problem). I've been making sure my material is TIGHT in the lathe. Live
and learn right!

I appreciate all the help folks. I've got several web sites now to check
out for reference as well as this news group. When I get my first project
completed, I'll post a pic here if you folks don't mind me asking for some
constructive feedback. It will be a while though as I only have two
spindles roughed and sanded so far. I'm a little slow and I need 9 or 10
more.

I've got a problem with a small member of the family (a Schipperke) scooting
by us when we open the door. She's a adventurer and won't come back until
she's ready. SWMBO has "requested" I make a gate to go at the end of the
little porch to stop her from getting away so easily.

10sc


"Derek Andrews" wrote in message
...
Bill Rubenstein wrote:
If you do flat work, you probably have a marking gage. If so, and if you
are starting out with square blanks (or near square) set the marking gage
to slightly over half the width of the blanks. Then make 4 marks, one
from each side, on an end. That will give you a small square in the
middle and from there it is easy to eyeball a mark (with an awl) in the
center of the small square.

This is the method I use for both speed and accuracy. I would add though
that it DOES work for pieces that AREN'T square. It will find the center
that gives the largest possible circle.

One thing that may cause Martin's work to be off center is that the points
may wander off when the wood is mounted between centers. But from Martins
comment that the effect is worse in the middle, I would guess there is too
much tailstock pressure being applied and the spindle is bowing. When
making spurtles ( length:diameter ratio = 25:1) I use a chuck to drive it
and apply minimal tailstock presure.

The other thing is that with only two weeks unguided experience I doubt
that Martin has yet learnt to use the tools with the finesse and empathy
that is required for this type of work. Keep at it Martin, and get some
help!

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/

Glad you found help for your problem. However, you can't post a photo here.
"10sc" wrote in message
news:MdM%d.91708$r55.46452@attbi_s52...
OUCH! Derek I think you hit it right on the head (at least part of my
problem). I've been making sure my material is TIGHT in the lathe. Live
and learn right!

I appreciate all the help folks. I've got several web sites now to check
out for reference as well as this news group. When I get my first project
completed, I'll post a pic here if you folks don't mind me asking for some
constructive feedback. It will be a while though as I only have two
spindles roughed and sanded so far. I'm a little slow and I need 9 or 10
more.

I've got a problem with a small member of the family (a Schipperke)
scooting by us when we open the door. She's a adventurer and won't come
back until she's ready. SWMBO has "requested" I make a gate to go at the
end of the little porch to stop her from getting away so easily.

10sc


"Derek Andrews" wrote in
message ...
Bill Rubenstein wrote:
If you do flat work, you probably have a marking gage. If so, and if
you are starting out with square blanks (or near square) set the marking
gage to slightly over half the width of the blanks. Then make 4 marks,
one from each side, on an end. That will give you a small square in the
middle and from there it is easy to eyeball a mark (with an awl) in the
center of the small square.

This is the method I use for both speed and accuracy. I would add though
that it DOES work for pieces that AREN'T square. It will find the center
that gives the largest possible circle.

One thing that may cause Martin's work to be off center is that the
points may wander off when the wood is mounted between centers. But from
Martins comment that the effect is worse in the middle, I would guess
there is too much tailstock pressure being applied and the spindle is
bowing. When making spurtles ( length:diameter ratio = 25:1) I use a
chuck to drive it and apply minimal tailstock presure.

The other thing is that with only two weeks unguided experience I doubt
that Martin has yet learnt to use the tools with the finesse and empathy
that is required for this type of work. Keep at it Martin, and get some
help!

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toolrest/

"10sc" wrote: (clip) SWMBO has "requested" I make a gate (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sounds like a worthy project. One of the challenges you have is making all
the spindles the same. First, you should know that they don't heally HAVE
to be perfectly alike, as long as they look the same after they are mounted.
After all, YOU are the only one who will be able to hold them against each
other for comparison.

Another idea occurs to me: If you have two patterns, and alternate them in
the finished gate, it will be REALLY hard for anyone to notice small
variations.

Hei Martin,
Welcome to the mad world.

A couple of sites you may like to check out
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/index.shtml
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/index.php?s=

The first is for a guy called Darrell Feltmate and has a heap of info,
the second one is an aussie forum but well worth joining and even
searchable.

The best advice I can give you though is that you should join a club
in your area - apart what you will learn it's great to see what others
are up to.
Cheers
Paul


On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 03:21:48 GMT, "10sc"
wrote:

I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



Unless otherwise stated all references to location refer to Western Australia

Hi Martin,

Most spindles are slightly off center and will wobble at first. Turning
the spindle will correct that quicker and easier than perfectly
centering to begin. Unless, of course, there is absolutely no wood to
waste.

If the problem is vibration and wobble in the middle of a thin spindle,
holding the blank in a chuck very firmly instead of by a spur center
helps a lot. I don't know why. Our engineers will have to explain. Also
be sure not to bow the spindle's middle with excessive tail center
pressure.

Welcome to rcw. Hope we helped to keep you and your Shop Smith in
harmony.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch wrote:
Hi Martin,

Most spindles are slightly off center and will wobble at first. Turning
the spindle will correct that quicker and easier than perfectly
centering to begin. Unless, of course, there is absolutely no wood to
waste.

If the problem is vibration and wobble in the middle of a thin spindle,
holding the blank in a chuck very firmly instead of by a spur center
helps a lot. I don't know why. Our engineers will have to explain. Also
be sure not to bow the spindle's middle with excessive tail center
pressure.

Welcome to rcw. Hope we helped to keep you and your Shop Smith in
harmony.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings


Thanks to you and Derek who mentioned the tailstock pressure - it's easy
to forget. Not that I need to correct mine. :-)

As Derek mentioned(implied?) I think it is the "bow" getting amplified I
am sure...

I will test if turning faster or slower increases the wobble.

My guess - before testing is that faster speeds give smoother cuts --
and increase any sympathetic vibrations (amplify the bow - and the bow
is essentially an imbalance I guess). Resonance I guess...

Maybe this is a use for the High Speed Flash on the camera.. Hmmm :-)

Has anyone done a technical analysis which can be read -- to save time?

--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
http://woodwork.pmccl.com

"Arch" wrote: (clip) holding the blank in a chuck very firmly instead of by
a spur center helps a lot. I don't know why. Our engineers will have to
explain.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks for the invitation, Arch. You are correct--a chuck stiffens the
piece of wood by holding one end on axis. A spur drive acts like a
universal joint. However, from the OP's remarks, I doubt that he has a
chuck at this beginning point in his career.

And very does not have a steady rest either. After the piece has been made
round and smooth, it is possible to damp vibrations by draping the fingers
of one hand over the work. CAREFULLY, making sure that the direction of
rotation UNWINDS the fingers, and not the other way. And don't wear a
glove--that's dangerous.

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Hi Martin,
SNIP ......

If the problem is vibration and wobble in the middle of a thin spindle,
holding the blank in a chuck very firmly instead of by a spur center
helps a lot. I don't know why. Our engineers will have to explain. Also
be sure not to bow the spindle's middle with excessive tail center
pressure.

SNIP ..........
=========================
Arch,
I think the chuck drive is better than the spur drive due to the tendency of
the spur to continually try to push itself out of the workpiece while the
chuck holds it in a more rigid location. No scientific evidence, but it
seems logical to me ...... which often doesn't mean to much! {:-))

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

"Ken Moon" wrote: (clip) the tendency of the spur to continually try to
push itself out of the workpiece while the chuck holds it in a more rigid
location.(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ken, since the drive faces of a spur drive are not angled, I don't think
they develop any thrust of their own. But, your idea suggests another
factor I had not previously thought of: for a drive center to work it has
to have considerable force against the wood to remain seated. This force,
coming from the tailstock, tends to bow the piece--this is why several
people have suggested minimizing the tailstock pressure. Holding the work
in a chuck, the tailstock can be touched into the dimple with virtually NO
pressure.

Thanks Leo and Ken, Good explanation. I I wonder if the chuck
compresses the wood fibers into a sort of monolithic spindle? Something
like the cables that support bridges? Could this play any role in
preventing a thin spindle from swaying in a vertical plane? Smiles are
ok, but no loud laughing please.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

One other item I didn't see mentioned. Once the stick is round, start
cutting away the wood from the tailstock end. That leaves more wood, and
stronger piece, between your chisel and the driving force of the headstock.

You can also try taking smaller bites with the chisel. Sometimes helps.

WaltC
"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...
I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of
the piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding
the center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the
spot so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the
middle of the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

Hi Martin,

I agree with those who commented that there may be too much axial pressure
on the workpiece. Also, there is an adjustment on the SS tailstock intended
for off-center turning, and it may be that your headstock and tailstock
centers aren't aligned. Remove the workpiece, slide the power unit all the
way to the right, and extend the quill so that the two centers are almost
touching. Loosen the set screw on the tailstock adjustment dial and rotate
the dial until the points are perfectly aligned.

If you don't have a SS user's manual, get one, as well as a book they sell
called Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone, they're both invaluable
references.

B.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...
I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been
experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of
the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding
the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the
spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

I got this one. I did read the book (which amazed my wife) before I started
using it. Actually, since the SS is so old, I went through the book for
maintenance procedures and what had to be done before using any particular
tool. So I did see how to align the lathe.

To be honest though. . . If the SS didn't look like it needed a little
maint, I likely would not have opened the book so early in my woodturning
career. After all - I know what I'm doing

10sc


"Buddy Matlosz" wrote in message
...
Hi Martin,

I agree with those who commented that there may be too much axial pressure
on the workpiece. Also, there is an adjustment on the SS tailstock
intended
for off-center turning, and it may be that your headstock and tailstock
centers aren't aligned. Remove the workpiece, slide the power unit all the
way to the right, and extend the quill so that the two centers are almost
touching. Loosen the set screw on the tailstock adjustment dial and rotate
the dial until the points are perfectly aligned.

If you don't have a SS user's manual, get one, as well as a book they sell
called Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone, they're both invaluable
references.

B.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...
I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been
experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of
the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding
the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the
spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle
of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

I have been turning things on my ShopSmith for nearly 20 years (mostly
bowls). The reason I am posting here is that I was so gratified to see all
you people pitch in with ideas to help solve the problem without one person
suggest that he quit trying and get a "real" lathe instead. Obviously I
have been pretty satisfied with my unit and upgraded to the Universal Tool
Rest that Shopsmith came out with a few years back. It has a nice design,
weighs about 35 pounds which the SS can use. I also have upgraded to all
High Speed Steel gouges and scrapers, bought a OneWay Stronghold chuck and a
set of Jumbo Jaws. The new tool rest also allows me to use some of the
heavier bowl tool rests from Grizzley and other suppliers. Everything
really works nice for me.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:UoM%d.91722$r55.6232@attbi_s52...
I got this one. I did read the book (which amazed my wife) before I
started using it. Actually, since the SS is so old, I went through the
book for maintenance procedures and what had to be done before using any
particular tool. So I did see how to align the lathe.

To be honest though. . . If the SS didn't look like it needed a little
maint, I likely would not have opened the book so early in my woodturning
career. After all - I know what I'm doing

10sc


"Buddy Matlosz" wrote in message
...
Hi Martin,

I agree with those who commented that there may be too much axial
pressure
on the workpiece. Also, there is an adjustment on the SS tailstock
intended
for off-center turning, and it may be that your headstock and tailstock
centers aren't aligned. Remove the workpiece, slide the power unit all
the
way to the right, and extend the quill so that the two centers are almost
touching. Loosen the set screw on the tailstock adjustment dial and
rotate
the dial until the points are perfectly aligned.

If you don't have a SS user's manual, get one, as well as a book they
sell
called Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone, they're both invaluable
references.

B.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...
I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been
experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of
the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding
the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the
spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle
of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

Hi Martin & Bob,

I don't mean to scorn but I do believe that a shopsmith in lathe mode is
at best a compromise. I once used a shopsmith and before that an AMT
Heavy Duty (all AMTs were advertised as 'heavy duty', 'G') and before
that a Sears Dunlap. I don't use them anymore, but I still enjoy keeping
them in good condition. Senility?

Then again much work that's light years better than mine, has been
turned on that compromise. Same with Sear's tube beds. The work of
Melvin Lindquist (SS), Darrell Feltmate and Ruth Niles (Sears tube beds)
comes to mind. It's the turner that counts the most. Enjoy your
Shopsmiths with no apology. You are in some very good company.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

From all the comments, it looks like a chuck is the way to go. But yowza!
I looked up the OneWay Stronghold you mentioned here. I realize that you
get what you pay for. However, if I pay for that I'll get it (if you catch
my drift). Any suggestions for a less expensive chuck or should I stay with
the spur drive for the time being?

10sc

"Bob Daun" wrote in message
...
I have been turning things on my ShopSmith for nearly 20 years (mostly
bowls). The reason I am posting here is that I was so gratified to see all
you people pitch in with ideas to help solve the problem without one person
suggest that he quit trying and get a "real" lathe instead. Obviously I
have been pretty satisfied with my unit and upgraded to the Universal Tool
Rest that Shopsmith came out with a few years back. It has a nice design,
weighs about 35 pounds which the SS can use. I also have upgraded to all
High Speed Steel gouges and scrapers, bought a OneWay Stronghold chuck and
a set of Jumbo Jaws. The new tool rest also allows me to use some of the
heavier bowl tool rests from Grizzley and other suppliers. Everything
really works nice for me.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:UoM%d.91722$r55.6232@attbi_s52...
I got this one. I did read the book (which amazed my wife) before I
started using it. Actually, since the SS is so old, I went through the
book for maintenance procedures and what had to be done before using any
particular tool. So I did see how to align the lathe.

To be honest though. . . If the SS didn't look like it needed a little
maint, I likely would not have opened the book so early in my woodturning
career. After all - I know what I'm doing

10sc


"Buddy Matlosz" wrote in message
...
Hi Martin,

I agree with those who commented that there may be too much axial
pressure
on the workpiece. Also, there is an adjustment on the SS tailstock
intended
for off-center turning, and it may be that your headstock and tailstock
centers aren't aligned. Remove the workpiece, slide the power unit all
the
way to the right, and extend the quill so that the two centers are
almost
touching. Loosen the set screw on the tailstock adjustment dial and
rotate
the dial until the points are perfectly aligned.

If you don't have a SS user's manual, get one, as well as a book they
sell
called Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone, they're both invaluable
references.

B.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...
I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been
experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of
the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding
the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the
spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle
of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

Stick with a spur drive -- there is a down side to using a chuck and the
tail stock at the same time. If your machine is not perfectly aligned,
you will know it since either the tail center will draw a circle on your
blank or will move the blank in the chuck. Zillions of spindles have
been turned between centers so it DOES work. Chucks and face plates are
for bowls, boxes, hollow forms...

Note that if your headstock and tailstock are not perfectly aligned,
there may be a little motion at the headstock end when turning on a spur
drive but usually it is of little consequence and you probably would not
even notice it. It does not introduce error into your work.

Bill

10sc wrote:
From all the comments, it looks like a chuck is the way to go. But yowza!
I looked up the OneWay Stronghold you mentioned here. I realize that you
get what you pay for. However, if I pay for that I'll get it (if you catch
my drift). Any suggestions for a less expensive chuck or should I stay with
the spur drive for the time being?

10sc

"Bob Daun" wrote in message
...

I have been turning things on my ShopSmith for nearly 20 years (mostly
bowls). The reason I am posting here is that I was so gratified to see all
you people pitch in with ideas to help solve the problem without one person
suggest that he quit trying and get a "real" lathe instead. Obviously I
have been pretty satisfied with my unit and upgraded to the Universal Tool
Rest that Shopsmith came out with a few years back. It has a nice design,
weighs about 35 pounds which the SS can use. I also have upgraded to all
High Speed Steel gouges and scrapers, bought a OneWay Stronghold chuck and
a set of Jumbo Jaws. The new tool rest also allows me to use some of the
heavier bowl tool rests from Grizzley and other suppliers. Everything
really works nice for me.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:UoM%d.91722$r55.6232@attbi_s52...

I got this one. I did read the book (which amazed my wife) before I
started using it. Actually, since the SS is so old, I went through the
book for maintenance procedures and what had to be done before using any
particular tool. So I did see how to align the lathe.

To be honest though. . . If the SS didn't look like it needed a little
maint, I likely would not have opened the book so early in my woodturning
career. After all - I know what I'm doing

10sc


"Buddy Matlosz" wrote in message
...

Hi Martin,

I agree with those who commented that there may be too much axial
pressure
on the workpiece. Also, there is an adjustment on the SS tailstock
intended
for off-center turning, and it may be that your headstock and tailstock
centers aren't aligned. Remove the workpiece, slide the power unit all
the
way to the right, and extend the quill so that the two centers are
almost
touching. Loosen the set screw on the tailstock adjustment dial and
rotate
the dial until the points are perfectly aligned.

If you don't have a SS user's manual, get one, as well as a book they
sell
called Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone, they're both invaluable
references.

B.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...

I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been

experimenting

with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of

the

piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding

the

center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the

spot

so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle
of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 04:14:45 GMT, "10sc" wrote:

I bought the Oneway Talon last year for the Shopsmith and love it..
When I got the Jet Mini for Christmas, I spent $22 on an adapter for the Talon
to fit the jet..
The chuck was a bit pricey... only a fraction of what I paid for the SS in the
80's, but almost as much as the $225 the Jet cost... worth the money for sure,
though..

Kind of funny, but I bought the chuck from the Shopsmith site... on sale for
$192, it was less there that at amazon or Oneway..

I turned wood occasionally for 20+ years on the shopsmith and never thought
about a chuck.. since I have one, it's changed my turning habits and (I think)
made me a better turner with less time jury-rigging stuff to get the stock
secured and turnable..
(about all I use the face plates for now are for home built jigs for finishing
bowl bottoms, etc.)

From all the comments, it looks like a chuck is the way to go. But yowza!
I looked up the OneWay Stronghold you mentioned here. I realize that you
get what you pay for. However, if I pay for that I'll get it (if you catch
my drift). Any suggestions for a less expensive chuck or should I stay with
the spur drive for the time being?

10sc

"Bob Daun" wrote in message
...
I have been turning things on my ShopSmith for nearly 20 years (mostly
bowls). The reason I am posting here is that I was so gratified to see all
you people pitch in with ideas to help solve the problem without one person
suggest that he quit trying and get a "real" lathe instead. Obviously I
have been pretty satisfied with my unit and upgraded to the Universal Tool
Rest that Shopsmith came out with a few years back. It has a nice design,
weighs about 35 pounds which the SS can use. I also have upgraded to all
High Speed Steel gouges and scrapers, bought a OneWay Stronghold chuck and
a set of Jumbo Jaws. The new tool rest also allows me to use some of the
heavier bowl tool rests from Grizzley and other suppliers. Everything
really works nice for me.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:UoM%d.91722$r55.6232@attbi_s52...
I got this one. I did read the book (which amazed my wife) before I
started using it. Actually, since the SS is so old, I went through the
book for maintenance procedures and what had to be done before using any
particular tool. So I did see how to align the lathe.

To be honest though. . . If the SS didn't look like it needed a little
maint, I likely would not have opened the book so early in my woodturning
career. After all - I know what I'm doing

10sc


"Buddy Matlosz" wrote in message
...
Hi Martin,

I agree with those who commented that there may be too much axial
pressure
on the workpiece. Also, there is an adjustment on the SS tailstock
intended
for off-center turning, and it may be that your headstock and tailstock
centers aren't aligned. Remove the workpiece, slide the power unit all
the
way to the right, and extend the quill so that the two centers are
almost
touching. Loosen the set screw on the tailstock adjustment dial and
rotate
the dial until the points are perfectly aligned.

If you don't have a SS user's manual, get one, as well as a book they
sell
called Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone, they're both invaluable
references.

B.

"10sc" wrote in message
news:g5r%d.90549$Ze3.87046@attbi_s51...
I bought a 40 year old Shop Smith two weeks ago and have been
experimenting
with the lathe - something I've always wanted. I figure that I must be
doing something wrong and I would appreciate a little advice.

My wood "bounces" as I shave it. Of course it's worse in the middle of
the
piece and especially on the longer pieces.

I also can't seem to get it centered on the lathe. I have been finding
the
center by drawing a line across the corners of the piece. X marks the
spot
so to speak. Even though the point for each lathe end is in the middle
of
the X, there is still a small but noticeable wobble in my piece.

Any help would be appreciated.



--

Martin "10sc" Mears


S.P.E.B.S.Q.S.A.

Harmony in song brings harmony to life.













mac

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