Hi All.

A few weeks back I asked for help in troubleshooting some plans I came
across on the 'net to make one's own woodburner (pyrographic) control
box. Thank you to all who took the time to respond and provide
assistance. I now have a working control unit thanks to your help. The
following is an article I posted on my web site as well as submitted to
one of my club's newsletters:
________
My web URL:
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe...woodburner/bur
ner.html
________
The article in full:
Making a Burner Control Unit

For years I've used various markers to sign and date my turned pieces.
Problems arose when the finish I used would remove or worse yet, smear,
the ink. I had to use two different markers depending on whether I was
using either an oil-based or an alcohol based finish. I liked the wood
burning systems, but with costs passing $120 they were just too
expensive for my budget.

I came across a carving web site on which free plans for building a
homemade burner control box and hand piece were offered. After
assembling the parts and wiring them up as directed, I couldn't get any
heat in the nichrome test wire. A couple weeks of troubleshooting with
various folks on the rec.crafts.woodturning news group led me to a
solution that seems to work beautifully - with total costs coming in at
around $25 not including the case, which I elected to make of wood.
Here's a rough wiring diagram to perhaps make things a little more clear:
http://users.easystreet.com/onlnlowe...woodburner/wir
ingdiagram.JPG"

Here's what you'll need to assemble your own control box and hand piece:
Heavy Duty 12.6v Transformer Radio Shack 273-1511
Panel Mount 1/4" Headphone Jack Radio Shack 274-252
Panel mount neon indicator lamp (red) Radio Shack 272-712
Dial type dimmer switch, 110v AC local hardware store
Single pole, single throw toggle switch, 110v AC local hardware
store
8 -10 ft of standard 16 or 18 guage lamp cord local hardware store
Standard 2-prong AC plug local hardware store

Optionally, if you don't want to make your own case:
Metal or plastic enclosure (case) appx. 6"x8" Radio Shack
If you go the metal case route you should buy 3-wire power cord and a 3
prong plug - attaching the ground wire to the metal case.

While you're forking over your bucks to Radio Shack you might want to
pick up the following items if you're game to making your own burner
handpiece as well:
Gold Plated 1/4" Male Headphone Jack Radio Shack 274-855
European Barrier Strip Radio Shack 274-679
Instructions for making a handpiece are located at FishCarver.com:
http://fishcarver.com/images/burning%20instructions.PDF

With the parts gathered together begin by mounting the parts in the
enclosure in whatever layout you desire. The incoming power is connected
in this order:
1) The power cord enters the box with the hot leg connected to one
lug on the toggle switch.
2) Connect one leg of the indicator lamp wire and a spare segment of
wire to the other lug on the toggle.
3) Connect the free end of the wire segment to one of the wires from
the dimmer switch.
4) Connect the other wire from the dimmer switch to one of the black
leads from the pair exiting the high voltage side of the transformer.
5) The neutral leg on the incoming power cord gets tied to the other
black lead on the high voltage side of the transformer along with the
remaining free wire from the lamp.

The low voltage side of the transformer is connected as follows:
1) Chose one of the yellow wires of the three (two yellows, one
black) coming from the side of the transformer and solder this to the
lug running to the center of the female headphone jack.
2) The other yellow wire is tied off and goes unused.
3) The black wire from this same side of the transformer is soldered
to the other lug on the female headphone jack.

Use soldered connections on the low voltage side to ensure as little
resistance in the joins as possible.

That's all there is to wiring the control box. I must leave you to
figuring out how to make your own handpiece using the FishCarver.com
site as I've yet to tackle this portion of the project. I have cobbled
up a test handpiece using the Radio Shack parts that FishCarver
specifies but haven't assembled a finished, presentable unit.

One last thing. If you are unsure of your electric skills then perhaps
consult a friend who can guide you. I'm afraid I can take no
responsiblity for the instructions or schematic, even if you: ZAP
yourself; burn down your shop and/or house; ruin a perfectly turned and
finished piece; or obliterate any eyebrows or fingerprints. I'm no
electrical engineer and offer the parts list and method of assembly that
worked for me.

--
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

Owen Lowe wrote:

Hi All.

A few weeks back I asked for help in troubleshooting some plans I came
across on the 'net to make one's own woodburner (pyrographic) control
box. Thank you to all who took the time to respond and provide
assistance. I now have a working control unit thanks to your help. The
following is an article I posted on my web site as well as submitted to
one of my club's newsletters:

What's the cost, so far?

In article tqJcd.2409$5l3.311@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

What's the cost, so far?

Not including the wood to make the enclosure - which was from my scrap
bin - about $25. I took the control unit and a quickly made handpiece to
a couple local chapters' meetings and folks were suitably impressed.
There's quite a good bit of variablity in the heat through the nichrome
wire. I think it's a winner and will add a pic to my web page after I
get my dig. camera back from the shop.

--
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

In article tqJcd.2409$5l3.311@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

What's the cost, so far?

Oh, yes. One more thing. A fellow member ran my article and plans by his
electrical engineer son and got a thumbs up. The only suggestion would
be to possibly include a fuse either on the incoming line or on the
handpiece line. Not essential, I was told, but wouldn't hurt.

--
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article tqJcd.2409$5l3.311@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

What's the cost, so far?

Not including the wood to make the enclosure - which was from my scrap
bin - about $25. I took the control unit and a quickly made handpiece to
a couple local chapters' meetings and folks were suitably impressed.
There's quite a good bit of variablity in the heat through the nichrome
wire. I think it's a winner and will add a pic to my web page after I
get my dig. camera back from the shop.


Lot better than $120! Nichrome wire - hmmm. I've got an old foam cutter
kicking around. Wonder if I could use that. I look forward to seeing the
handpieces. Thanks for the article.

LD

Owen Lowe wrote:

In article tqJcd.2409$5l3.311@trnddc02,
Lobby Dosser wrote:

What's the cost, so far?

Oh, yes. One more thing. A fellow member ran my article and plans by his
electrical engineer son and got a thumbs up. The only suggestion would
be to possibly include a fuse either on the incoming line or on the
handpiece line. Not essential, I was told, but wouldn't hurt.


And one other thing --- Nichrome wire brings back memories of high school
physics. Mumble mumble mumble whatever you do, do not expose the wire to
air; keep it in the water - mumble mumble mumble. Leaves wire sticking out
of water. Wire begins burning. Procedes to grab both terminals to shove it
under. Zaaaappp!! Learned a fair amount about electricity that day. Plugged
into a 110, of course.

LD