I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14" delta
with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a Jet
1236 so 12" would be max I guess.

Bruce
"Bruce Barnett" wrote in message
...
Bruce Barnett writes:

I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw.

Thanks, Gang. Dumb error, as it turned out.
(Although the manual did not mention this is a possible/required
adjustment).

At the bottom on the tension knob bolt is a nut. It was 2 inches from
the end of the bolt. I had to loosen the nut, which caused the
entire wheel to lower one inch.

Before I did that, the minimum blade length before tensioning would
have been 105 1/4 inches. I was thinking unkind things.

I wonder if some guy at Jet was chuckling at himself and was purposely
setting the "default" length to be "maximum aggravation." I have no
proof of this, but I also had a threadless "nut that could not be
threaded."
(grin)

Anyhow - today I get to turn on the motor for the first time!

One more question....

I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
(Newer owned a bandsaw before).

I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade
instead.

The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
3/4" is too high.

The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.

Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
Has anyone tried both?

This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.


http://groups.google.com/groups?selm...1t%404 ax.com


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Have read suggestions to use Pam as lubricant on blades.

On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

My preferred width. Keep the number of TPI low and, unlike resawing, some
good kerf-clearing set in 'em.

Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14"
delta
with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a
Jet
1236 so 12" would be max I guess.

Hasn't so far - 5 years or so - on mine, and the purpose is to clean the
sticky gunk off the blade, along with the wood acids that might do to it
what happened to Morris' plane - pit it with rust.

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Applying WD-40 after each secession would that not damage the tires and
also
wood chips or dust will ahere to the blade causing more problems?

Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the
blade
backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry,
oak
or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

I use olive oil straight, applied with the paper towel. Hell of a lot
cheaper than aerosol. Minor gain in cutting ability on wet wood, but resin
doesn't stick as readily.

wrote in message
...
Have read suggestions to use Pam as lubricant on blades.

On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the
blade
backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry,
oak
or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

In article ,
wrote:
Have read suggestions to use Pam as lubricant on blades.

"Pam-fering" your blade is always a good idea! groan


On Mon, 31 May 2004 07:53:58 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Turn off the saw, soak a paper towel with oil or WD-40 and rotate the blade
backward through it to clean after sessions with acid woods like cherry, oak
or elm, and you'll maintain a sharp cut longer.

In article ,
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote:

I will throw in another question. I know the thread was about resawing,
but what about green wood? Cutting bowl blanks ect. My saw is a 14" delta
with riser blocks. 1/2 inch blade too wide for bowl blanks?? I have a Jet
1236 so 12" would be max I guess.

I get my blades directly from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery). I follow
Timberwolf's recommendations when cutting green wood for turning blanks
by using a 3/8" 3 tooth with a mildly wide set to the teeth to keep the
wet saw dust from binding the blade as it heats, steams and swells
inside the kerf. It's the AS series and costs about $18.

When using a 1/2" blade, the min. diameter you could cut would be about
5". A 3/8" blade would turn a 2.5" circle.

In article ,
WD wrote:

Lee Valley catalog identify their Viking bandsaw blade as Timber Wolf, can you
confirm it from Suffolk Machinery?

I don't know. You might try a google search of the newsgroup to see
what's been said about the Viking blades.

I screw up a NEW Timberwolf 1/2" blade by cutting a radius less than 4" dia.,
now thinking of replacing it from Lee Valley?

How did you screw up a blade by attempting a too tight curve? The only
thing I've run into when that happens is I can't keep the blade tight
enough to the line, so end up making faceted cuts.

Lee Valley's blades are Viking brand and are NOT made by Timberwolf. I
bought a viking, which broke the first time I used it. Being under the
impression I had a Timberwolf I called Suffolk. I got quite a rude response
from the customer service there who told me to call that (*&$#) Canadian
company. I won't buy a Timberwolf due to this ignoramus. The Viking are a
good blade though and you always have the great customer service of Lee
Valley (who exchanged blades for me without question) behind them.

Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/


"WD" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 31 May 2004 15:38:23 -0700, Owen Lowe
wrote:

Lee Valley catalog identify their Viking bandsaw blade as Timber Wolf, can
you
confirm it from Suffolk Machinery?

I screw up a NEW Timberwolf 1/2" blade by cutting a radius less than 4"
dia.,
now thinking of replacing it from Lee Valley?

I get my blades directly from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery). I follow
Timberwolf's recommendations when cutting green wood for turning blanks
by using a 3/8" 3 tooth with a mildly wide set to the teeth to keep the
wet saw dust from binding the blade as it heats, steams and swells
inside the kerf. It's the AS series and costs about $18.

When using a 1/2" blade, the min. diameter you could cut would be about
5". A 3/8" blade would turn a 2.5" circle.