The Suffolk blades are "low tension" blades and have never caused any
trouble with my Jet with riser blocks. I do try to remember to detension
the blade after using it. I use the 3/4" for resawing and have other
widths for other purposes.

The low tension blades take a little getting used to. You tighten them,
loosen them until they start to flutter, and then retighten them just a
little.

Slowly I turned...
Randy



Bruce Barnett wrote:
Bruce Barnett writes:


I can't get the 105" blades to fit onto the saw.


Thanks, Gang. Dumb error, as it turned out.
(Although the manual did not mention this is a possible/required adjustment).

At the bottom on the tension knob bolt is a nut. It was 2 inches from
the end of the bolt. I had to loosen the nut, which caused the
entire wheel to lower one inch.

Before I did that, the minimum blade length before tensioning would
have been 105 1/4 inches. I was thinking unkind things.

I wonder if some guy at Jet was chuckling at himself and was purposely
setting the "default" length to be "maximum aggravation." I have no
proof of this, but I also had a threadless "nut that could not be threaded."
(grin)

Anyhow - today I get to turn on the motor for the first time!

One more question....

I bought 2 Timberwolf blades.
One of them was 3/4" - which I bought for resawing.
I figured the wider the blade, the straighter the resawing.
(Newer owned a bandsaw before).

I haven't opened the package yet, so I can return it.
Anyhow - I was wondering if I should return it for a 1/2" or 5/8" blade instead.

The "Duginkse Bench Guide" says the maximum practical size for
non-commercial band saws is 1/2" because of the required tension for a
3/4" is too high.

The Jet specs say it's good for 3/4". And I have a low-tension blade.

Does a 3/4" cut straighter than a 1/2"?
Is a low-tension 3/4" pushing the limits of a 14" Bandsaw?
Has anyone tried both?

This one reference suggests the 3/4" will work fine.

http://groups.google.com/groups?selm...1t%404 ax.com