| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
Darkening cherry bowls
I currently am working on a few cherry bowls. I know that cherry will
darken upon exposure to sunlight from a maple type color to a darker reddish color. I know this is primarily from exposure to UV light. I finish my bowls with a few coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and then after thorough drying, I use my Beall system to polish and wax. Does anyone know of procedures to use to accelerate the rate of darkening. What might be a good UV source that could be used close to the wood to darken it. I have a halogen work light but I don't know the primary wavelengths of emission for those bulbs. Bob |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article ,
"Bob Daun" wrote: I currently am working on a few cherry bowls. I know that cherry will darken upon exposure to sunlight from a maple type color to a darker reddish color. I know this is primarily from exposure to UV light. Well, there's that big light in the sky outside - cheap, too. Put them out in the sun for a while. Halogen won't do much for you. And most lights that would do much are shielded to reduce shortwave UV so they won't hurt people. Skin cancer and itchy eyes both hurt. You could get a germicidal UV lamp (florescent, usually - seen in things like water filters and cabinets to store safety glasses). Some metal halide or mercury vapor lamps sold in the aquarium trade lack the usual UV shield layer since some UV is good for mimicking sunlight. A good old fashioned carbon arc light is a wonderful UV source, but not one that's all that easy to find these days. If you happen to have an arc welder and a twin carbon arc torch, that would be the ticket to rapid results - but wear your helmet and leathers, and don't catch the wood on fire. I suppose tanning lamps would likewise work, and you could get a lot of bowls on a tanning bed if you found a tanning store going out of business. With any of the lights, you should arrange the lights and bowl to be in a box or cabinet that keeps the light off your skin and eyes, and use safety glasses and gloves/long sleeves if you are rearranging bowls with the lights on. A better box/cabinet design would have a switch that turned them off if the door was unlatched, and shiny reflective insides so you got maximum use from the light. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Bob Daun" wrote:
I currently am working on a few cherry bowls. I know that cherry will darken upon exposure to sunlight from a maple type color to a darker reddish color. I know this is primarily from exposure to UV light. I finish my bowls with a few coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and then after thorough drying, I use my Beall system to polish and wax. Does anyone know of procedures to use to accelerate the rate of darkening. What might be a good UV source that could be used close to the wood to darken it. I have a halogen work light but I don't know the primary wavelengths of emission for those bulbs. There are a couple of chemical treatments you can choose from, prior to applying finish: ammonia fuming, or lye. A solution of 1 teaspoon of lye in a pint of water will darken cherry quite satisfactorily. Make sure to wipe it down with diluted vinegar, and again with water, before finishing. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Ecnerwal" wrote: (clip) A good old fashioned carbon arc light is a wonderful UV source, but not one that's all that easy to find these days. If you happen to have an arc welder and a twin carbon arc torch, that would be the ticket to rapid results - but wear your helmet and leathers, and don't catch the wood on fire. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ They used to use carbon arc lights for burning plates in the printing industry--they have been phased out because of the toxic fumes they produce. I think it is hard to get the copper-coated carbon rods they use. When they were used, they were never run more than a few minutes at a time, which I think would be insufficient for your purposes. Also. if you intend to use any kind of light source, you have the question of how to get even exposure all around the bowl. You would have to rotate it on a spit, or devise a reflective surround for the light and the bowl. It just don't strike me as very practical. I think the suggestion to use sunlight makes the most sense. |
Darkening cherry bowls
acid activates purple heart and makes it a very vivid color - might be worth
a try "Bob Daun" wrote in message ... I currently am working on a few cherry bowls. I know that cherry will darken upon exposure to sunlight from a maple type color to a darker reddish color. I know this is primarily from exposure to UV light. I finish my bowls with a few coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and then after thorough drying, I use my Beall system to polish and wax. Does anyone know of procedures to use to accelerate the rate of darkening. What might be a good UV source that could be used close to the wood to darken it. I have a halogen work light but I don't know the primary wavelengths of emission for those bulbs. Bob |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Bill Noble" wrote:
acid activates purple heart and makes it a very vivid color - might be worth a try Not on cherry. Use alkali instead -- even a weak lye solution makes cherry quite dark. Ammonia will darken it also. I haven't tried washing soda yet to see if it has a similar effect, but I imagine it will. "Bob Daun" wrote in message t... I currently am working on a few cherry bowls. I know that cherry will darken upon exposure to sunlight from a maple type color to a darker reddish color. I know this is primarily from exposure to UV light. I finish my bowls with a few coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and then after thorough drying, I use my Beall system to polish and wax. Does anyone know of procedures to use to accelerate the rate of darkening. What might be a good UV source that could be used close to the wood to darken it. I have a halogen work light but I don't know the primary wavelengths of emission for those bulbs. Bob |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Bill Noble" wrote in message ... acid activates purple heart and makes it a very vivid color - might be worth a try Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leon" wrote: Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Purple heart is brown when it's cut or turned, but the color returns to the surface on exposure to air. Exposure of the purple surface to sunlight will turn it to an ugly brown. So, after turning a pen, just wait, and don't leave it in the window. |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Leo Lichtman" wrote:
"Leon" wrote: Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Purple heart is brown when it's cut or turned, but the color returns to the surface on exposure to air. Exposure of the purple surface to sunlight will turn it to an ugly brown. So, after turning a pen, just wait, and don't leave it in the window. Not in my experience -- I've observed the purple to be *intensified* by sunlight. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote: Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Purple heart is brown when it's cut or turned, but the color returns to the surface on exposure to air. Exposure of the purple surface to sunlight will turn it to an ugly brown. I don't buy it.. LOL... This pen is 1 year old now and some 10 year old purple heart candle holders I made still have the same brown spots. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , "Leo Lichtman" wrote: "Leon" wrote: Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Purple heart is brown when it's cut or turned, but the color returns to the surface on exposure to air. Exposure of the purple surface to sunlight will turn it to an ugly brown. So, after turning a pen, just wait, and don't leave it in the window. Not in my experience -- I've observed the purple to be *intensified* by sunlight. I have heard it both way over the years.... From what I understand it is loke people and will react differently to being handled differently. I have had it go extreme purple when cutting. |
Darkening cherry bowls
|
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leon" wrote in message ... "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... acid activates purple heart and makes it a very vivid color - might be worth a try Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? HCL |
Darkening cherry bowls
"purple heart will turn purple due to heat or HCL or other acid - if you don't believe me, try it. colors are different but both are arguably shades of purple - the HCL is more red, the heat more blue in my experience |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Bill Noble" wrote in message ... "purple heart will turn purple due to heat or HCL or other acid - if you don't believe me, try it. colors are different but both are arguably shades of purple - the HCL is more red, the heat more blue in my experience I have had purple heart turn both brown and stronger purple when cutting different pieces of purple heart. What I would like to know is how to turn the piece that turns brown with heat, back to purple, what kind of acid? |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Bill Noble" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message ... "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... acid activates purple heart and makes it a very vivid color - might be worth a try Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? HCL Hydracloric? |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leon" wrote in message ... "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... "purple heart will turn purple due to heat or HCL or other acid - if you don't believe me, try it. colors are different but both are arguably shades of purple - the HCL is more red, the heat more blue in my experience I have had purple heart turn both brown and stronger purple when cutting different pieces of purple heart. What I would like to know is how to turn the piece that turns brown with heat, back to purple, what kind of acid? Ah... HCL got it. |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Leon" wrote:
"Bill Noble" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message ... "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... acid activates purple heart and makes it a very vivid color - might be worth a try Vivid purple turned brown when turning and sanding a pen..... what kind of acid are you using to bring back the pruple? HCL Hydracloric? Right pronunciation, wrong spelling: hydrochloric (hydro[gen] + chlor[ine]). Any swimming-pool supply shop will have it, but it may be pretty pricy. It's also available in many hardware stores under the name "muriatic acid" -- same stuff, but usually much cheaper than at a pool shop. |
Darkening cherry bowls
If you're a stickler for correctitude, make that HCl.
|
Darkening cherry bowls
Leo Lichtman wrote:
If you're a stickler for correctitude, make that HCl. And if you dilute it, be sure to observe the safety rule of *always* pouring the acid into water rather than the other way around. That way, it will be the diluted acid that splashes or spills, not the full strength... -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb In a recent poll, seven out of ten hard drives preferred Linux. |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article ations,
Kevin Miller wrote: Leo Lichtman wrote: If you're a stickler for correctitude, make that HCl. And if you dilute it, be sure to observe the safety rule of *always* pouring the acid into water rather than the other way around. That way, it will be the diluted acid that splashes or spills, not the full strength... The reason is a bit less obvious than that, as demonstrated in high-school chemistry to make the point. At least back when I went to high school it was - with all the skittishness about exposing young persons to the faintest shred of real life, it's no doubt no longer in vogue, regardless of proper safety precautions. When you add water to acid, the water can be heated to boiling - I forget the details of why, but I remember the effect. Effectively, you can consider acid dilution to be an exothermic "reaction." The heat is there in either direction, but the distribution of heat is significantly different with acid to water .vs. water to acid. When water is added to acid and the water flashes to steam, you get acid being flung out of the container by the steam - not good. Chemistry students who retained more are welcome to fill in the details, or the web probably can as well. I don't need them, I recall the effect and that's plenty for me. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leon" wrote in message ... "purple heart will turn purple due to heat or HCL or other acid - if you don't believe me, try it. colors are different but both are arguably shades of purple - the HCL is more red, the heat more blue in my experience I have had purple heart turn both brown and stronger purple when cutting different pieces of purple heart. What I would like to know is how to turn the piece that turns brown with heat, back to purple, what kind of acid? Ah... HCL got it. you can wipe it on, or put it in a container near the wood and cover the pair and the fumes will do the trick. |
Darkening cherry bowls
Ecnerwal wrote:
The reason is a bit less obvious than that, as demonstrated in high-school chemistry to make the point. At least back when I went to high school it was - with all the skittishness about exposing young persons to the faintest shred of real life, it's no doubt no longer in vogue, regardless of proper safety precautions. When you add water to acid, the water can be heated to boiling - I forget the details of why, but I remember the effect. Effectively, you can consider acid dilution to be an exothermic "reaction." The heat is there in either direction, but the distribution of heat is significantly different with acid to water .vs. water to acid. When water is added to acid and the water flashes to steam, you get acid being flung out of the container by the steam - not good. Chemistry students who retained more are welcome to fill in the details, or the web probably can as well. I don't need them, I recall the effect and that's plenty for me. Interesting. I never took chemistry but my biology teacher did drop a small ball of sodium in water once. That was fun. Makes all the more sense; the likely hood of it splashing/spilling is much more likely if it tends to explode on you! ....Kevin -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb In a recent poll, seven out of ten hard drives preferred Linux. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Ecnerwal" wrote in message ... In article ations, Kevin Miller wrote: The reason is a bit less obvious than that, as demonstrated in high-school chemistry to make the point. At least back when I went to high school it was - with all the skittishness about exposing young persons to the faintest shred of real life, it's no doubt no longer in vogue, regardless of proper safety precautions. When you add water to acid, the water can be heated to boiling - I forget the details of why, but I remember the effect. Effectively, you can consider acid dilution to be an exothermic "reaction." The heat is there in either direction, but the distribution of heat is significantly different with acid to water .vs. water to acid. When water is added to acid and the water flashes to steam, you get acid being flung out of the container by the steam - not good. Chemistry students who retained more are welcome to fill in the details, or the web probably can as well. I don't need them, I recall the effect and that's plenty for me. I'll attest to that. Brought back memories of my early automotive days and filling dry batteries with suulfuric acid and topping off a battery with water. Adding water to a charged battery would result in what appeared to be boiling acid. Then there was the time I was filling a new battery with sulfuric acid and the hose came off of the acid container, tghe acid poured right into my crotch. Thank goodness there was a Coke machine near by. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Kevin Miller" wrote in message mmunications... Ecnerwal wrote: Interesting. I never took chemistry but my biology teacher did drop a small ball of sodium in water once. That was fun. I recall doing that in chemistry, however we were trusted to slice off a piece of the sodium ourselves and then cover it back up quickly. The sodium would also react to being exposed to air although not as voilently as dropping a piece in a beaker of water. I forget how the sodium was stored to stop the reaction with the air. Corpus Christi was/is a very humid city. Makes all the more sense; the likely hood of it splashing/spilling is much more likely if it tends to explode on you! ...Kevin -- Kevin Miller Juneau, Alaska http://www.alaska.net/~atftb In a recent poll, seven out of ten hard drives preferred Linux. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leon" wrote: (clip) acid poured right into my crotch. Thank goodness there was a Coke machine near by. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What a strange time to stop and drink a Coke. G |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Leon" wrote:
"Kevin Miller" wrote in message ommunications... Ecnerwal wrote: Interesting. I never took chemistry but my biology teacher did drop a small ball of sodium in water once. That was fun. I recall doing that in chemistry, however we were trusted to slice off a piece of the sodium ourselves and then cover it back up quickly. The sodium would also react to being exposed to air although not as voilently as dropping a piece in a beaker of water. I forget how the sodium was stored to stop the reaction with the air. Corpus Christi was/is a very humid city. IIR, it's usually stored in kerosene. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , "Leon" wrote: "Kevin Miller" wrote in message communications... Ecnerwal wrote: Interesting. I never took chemistry but my biology teacher did drop a small ball of sodium in water once. That was fun. I recall doing that in chemistry, however we were trusted to slice off a piece of the sodium ourselves and then cover it back up quickly. The sodium would also react to being exposed to air although not as voilently as dropping a piece in a beaker of water. I forget how the sodium was stored to stop the reaction with the air. Corpus Christi was/is a very humid city. IIR, it's usually stored in kerosene. That would sound reasonable... I wonder how it is preserved in nature. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote: (clip) acid poured right into my crotch. Thank goodness there was a Coke machine near by. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What a strange time to stop and drink a Coke. G LOL, and thank goodness a quarter would buy you a Coke. |
Darkening cherry bowls
On Jan 15, 10:39*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Ecnerwal" wrote in message ... In article ations, Kevin Miller wrote: The reason is a bit less obvious than that, as demonstrated in high-school chemistry to make the point. At least back when I went to high school it was - with all the skittishness about exposing young persons to the faintest shred of real life, it's no doubt no longer in vogue, regardless of proper safety precautions. When you add water to acid, the water can be heated to boiling - I forget the details of why, but I remember the effect. Effectively, you can consider acid dilution to be an exothermic "reaction." The heat is there in either direction, but the distribution of heat is significantly different with acid to water .vs. water to acid. When water is added to acid and the water flashes to steam, you get acid being flung out of the container by the steam - not good. Chemistry students who retained more are welcome to fill in the details, or the web probably can as well. I don't need them, I recall the effect and that's plenty for me. I'll attest to that. *Brought back memories of my early automotive days and filling dry batteries with suulfuric acid and topping off a battery with water. *Adding water to a charged battery would result in what appeared to be boiling acid. Then there was the time I was filling a new battery with sulfuric acid and the hose came off of the acid container, tghe acid poured right into my crotch. *Thank goodness there was a Coke machine near by. The order of mixing water and acid is very important with sulfuric acid, but of no real concern with hydrochloric. In the lab we keep 1+1 hydrochloric acid (1 part water + 1 part 30% acid) on the shelf for routine use. It doesn't fume like the concentrated stuff and is generally easier to handle. You can spill the 1+1 on your skin and simply rinse it off with water with no damage. It is concentrated sulfuric acid (battery acid) that is dangerous to handle. FWIW, the worst burn I ever got in 30 years in the lab was from Hydrofluoric acid (the stuff used to etch glass). Now that's some bad s---! Paul Gilbert - retired chemist |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Leon" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , "Leon" wrote: "Kevin Miller" wrote in message icommunications... Ecnerwal wrote: Interesting. I never took chemistry but my biology teacher did drop a small ball of sodium in water once. That was fun. I recall doing that in chemistry, however we were trusted to slice off a piece of the sodium ourselves and then cover it back up quickly. The sodium would also react to being exposed to air although not as voilently as dropping a piece in a beaker of water. I forget how the sodium was stored to stop the reaction with the air. Corpus Christi was/is a very humid city. IIR, it's usually stored in kerosene. That would sound reasonable... I wonder how it is preserved in nature. It's not. Sodium doesn't occur in pure form in nature. *Can't* occur in pure form, in fact, since it reacts spontaneously with both air and water. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , "Leon" wrote: "Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , "Leon" wrote: "Kevin Miller" wrote in message cicommunications... Ecnerwal wrote: Interesting. I never took chemistry but my biology teacher did drop a small ball of sodium in water once. That was fun. I recall doing that in chemistry, however we were trusted to slice off a piece of the sodium ourselves and then cover it back up quickly. The sodium would also react to being exposed to air although not as voilently as dropping a piece in a beaker of water. I forget how the sodium was stored to stop the reaction with the air. Corpus Christi was/is a very humid city. IIR, it's usually stored in kerosene. That would sound reasonable... I wonder how it is preserved in nature. It's not. Sodium doesn't occur in pure form in nature. *Can't* occur in pure form, in fact, since it reacts spontaneously with both air and water. Ahh.. So that raw Na is processed? IIRC in the more pure form it was more like clay. |
Darkening cherry bowls
"Paul Gilbert" wrote in message ... On Jan 15, 10:39 pm, "Leon" wrote: "Ecnerwal" wrote in message ... I'll attest to that. Brought back memories of my early automotive days and filling dry batteries with suulfuric acid and topping off a battery with water. Adding water to a charged battery would result in what appeared to be boiling acid. Then there was the time I was filling a new battery with sulfuric acid and the hose came off of the acid container, tghe acid poured right into my crotch. Thank goodness there was a Coke machine near by. The order of mixing water and acid is very important with sulfuric acid, but of no real concern with hydrochloric. Unknown back then to me and unfortunately there was not much choice to topping off a battery with water unless the battery was dead. Then you were basically adding water to water. I recall so many customers wanting to add sulfuric acid to a dead empty/low battery. That could not be done, you had to add water and recharge. Simply refilling a dead battery with acid would not allow the recharge/chemical reaction to take place. Back then batteries were charged at the factory and drained. The shop would then refill the new empty charged batteries with acid. I suspect that the sulfuric acid we used to refill the new batteries was a weaker mix that a strong solution of sulfuric acid. I recall that if you got it on your bare skin nothing happed immediately but shortly you would get this severe itch. If you got it on a cut it was like pouring alcohol or lemon juice on the cut. Any piece of cloth, like your cloths, that it came in contact with was immediately predestined to descenegrate in the wash. Ahhh.. sulfuric acid has a very tart salty sour taste. ;~) I some times would touch an itchey spot very lightly to the very tip of my tongue to determine if the itch was natural or caused by acid. Like being electrocuted with 110-120 volts you instantly knew if there was acid on your finger using the taste test. :~) I filled lots and lots and lots of batteries when I was a kid 5-10 a day. In the lab we keep 1+1 hydrochloric acid (1 part water + 1 part 30% acid) on the shelf for routine use. It doesn't fume like the concentrated stuff and is generally easier to handle. You can spill the 1+1 on your skin and simply rinse it off with water with no damage. It is concentrated sulfuric acid (battery acid) that is dangerous to handle. FWIW, the worst burn I ever got in 30 years in the lab was from Hydrofluoric acid (the stuff used to etch glass). Now that's some bad s---! Paul Gilbert - retired chemist |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , "Leon" wrote:
Ahh.. So that raw Na is processed? IIRC in the more pure form it was more like clay. It's a very soft metal. As far as I can remember, most of the methods of purifying it involve passing an electric current through one of its compounds (for example, I believe that electrolysis of molten sodium hydroxide yields the pure metal plus oxygen and hydrogen as gases). |
Darkening cherry bowls
I am very inexperienced at this, but I have made 5 cherry bowls. I
spend more time sanding them than anybody else does, probably. As I am sanding/polishing them them with pretty fine grits, let's say 600 or so, the heat from the sanding darkens them a fair amount. I even tried polishing a couple with the back side of the sandpaper, and I can see definite darkening from that. So far, I have only been finishing them with a can of natural ancient linseed oil and that darkens them even more. This is all air dried for 5 or 6 years, cherry that I cut myself. Pete Stanaitis --------------------- Bob Daun wrote: I currently am working on a few cherry bowls. I know that cherry will darken upon exposure to sunlight from a maple type color to a darker reddish color. I know this is primarily from exposure to UV light. I finish my bowls with a few coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and then after thorough drying, I use my Beall system to polish and wax. Does anyone know of procedures to use to accelerate the rate of darkening. What might be a good UV source that could be used close to the wood to darken it. I have a halogen work light but I don't know the primary wavelengths of emission for those bulbs. Bob |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , spaco wrote:
I am very inexperienced at this, but I have made 5 cherry bowls. I spend more time sanding them than anybody else does, probably. As I am sanding/polishing them them with pretty fine grits, let's say 600 or so, the heat from the sanding darkens them a fair amount. That's called "burning". It's entirely different from the rich red-brown patina that cherry acquires after a few years of exposure to sunlight. |
Darkening cherry bowls
We bought a Cherry Grandfather clock in 87 and it glows very nice.
Sadly spiders got into it and jammed the gears. Put camphor balls to run off people and spiders. :-) Martin Doug Miller wrote: In article , spaco wrote: I am very inexperienced at this, but I have made 5 cherry bowls. I spend more time sanding them than anybody else does, probably. As I am sanding/polishing them them with pretty fine grits, let's say 600 or so, the heat from the sanding darkens them a fair amount. That's called "burning". It's entirely different from the rich red-brown patina that cherry acquires after a few years of exposure to sunlight. |
Darkening cherry bowls
As the originator of this thread and a retired chemist, I am glad someone
finally clarified the situation with acid and water. The only real dangerous actor is concentrated sulfuric acid as far as reacting violently with water. And I agree about Hydrofluoric acid (HF). This is really nasty corrosive stuff. On the other hand, sulfuric acid has little odor but a sniff of hydrochloric with clear up your sinuses real quick (not recommended). Do not really want to prolong this thread too far but I have another question to throw out. What about turning immature black walnut. It has a lot of grain but not the typical walnut color. Is there a way to treat a bowl turned with immature walnut to convert it to the typical Brown color. I tried ammonia but it didn't seem to have any effect. Bob "Paul Gilbert" wrote in message ... On Jan 15, 10:39 pm, "Leon" wrote: "Ecnerwal" wrote in message ... In article ations, Kevin Miller wrote: The reason is a bit less obvious than that, as demonstrated in high-school chemistry to make the point. At least back when I went to high school it was - with all the skittishness about exposing young persons to the faintest shred of real life, it's no doubt no longer in vogue, regardless of proper safety precautions. When you add water to acid, the water can be heated to boiling - I forget the details of why, but I remember the effect. Effectively, you can consider acid dilution to be an exothermic "reaction." The heat is there in either direction, but the distribution of heat is significantly different with acid to water .vs. water to acid. When water is added to acid and the water flashes to steam, you get acid being flung out of the container by the steam - not good. Chemistry students who retained more are welcome to fill in the details, or the web probably can as well. I don't need them, I recall the effect and that's plenty for me. I'll attest to that. Brought back memories of my early automotive days and filling dry batteries with suulfuric acid and topping off a battery with water. Adding water to a charged battery would result in what appeared to be boiling acid. Then there was the time I was filling a new battery with sulfuric acid and the hose came off of the acid container, tghe acid poured right into my crotch. Thank goodness there was a Coke machine near by. The order of mixing water and acid is very important with sulfuric acid, but of no real concern with hydrochloric. In the lab we keep 1+1 hydrochloric acid (1 part water + 1 part 30% acid) on the shelf for routine use. It doesn't fume like the concentrated stuff and is generally easier to handle. You can spill the 1+1 on your skin and simply rinse it off with water with no damage. It is concentrated sulfuric acid (battery acid) that is dangerous to handle. FWIW, the worst burn I ever got in 30 years in the lab was from Hydrofluoric acid (the stuff used to etch glass). Now that's some bad s---! Paul Gilbert - retired chemist |
Darkening cherry bowls
In article , Bob Daun
wrote: Do not really want to prolong this thread too far but I have another question to throw out. What about turning immature black walnut. It has a lot of grain but not the typical walnut color. Is there a way to treat a bowl turned with immature walnut to convert it to the typical Brown color. I tried ammonia but it didn't seem to have any effect. I remember reading that this is done commercially to stretch out the amount of marketable Black Walnut. Someone will doubtless jump in here with the relevant details, but if I recall correctly, it involved heating in water [?] to dissolve some of the colored substances from the heart and deposit same on the lighter sapwood... It's probably more complicated than that :-) -j |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:19 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter