Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.


Thanks for any replies...

Dan Jefferson said:

Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.

I sometimes hack them up with a chain saw - but I wouldn't call them
"rounds." More like geometric anomalies. Starting slow on the lathe,
it works.


Greg G.

What bandsaw do you have ? - might be horse power or simply the blade.
Skip tooth and lots of clean out ability is what you need. If you can't
get skip tooth - then get a very coarse tooth - 8 ot 10 tpi.

I use a Delta that I upgraded to be a 14" (Riser kit) and sometimes I wish
I had a larger table. And other times a wider blade for re-saw.


Martin

Dan Jefferson wrote:
Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.


Thanks for any replies...

Dan Jefferson wrote:
Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.


Thanks for any replies...




How often do you have to do it? Can you just use the senior center
saw again? Maybe give them some stock in exchange?

Stuart said:

In article ,
Greg wrote:

I sometimes hack them up with a chain saw - but I wouldn't call them
"rounds." More like geometric anomalies

You owe me some screen wipes :-)

Brilliant description!

Thanks.
We'll be back each Friday, and don't forget to tip the waitresses.
So it's not a morgue in here after all...


Greg G.

On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:29:57 -0500, "Dan Jefferson"
wrote:

Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.


Thanks for any replies...

What diameter rounds? How thick?
Without info, I'd guess that whatever size they were, they were more than a 9"
BS can handle... HP, blade, etc.. lots of factors involved..

Before I had a BS, I'd rough them with the chainsaw then trip what I could with
a recip saw with a 7 or 8" blade..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

If you can do a good job with a chainsaw in getting a flat bottom and
maybe flat top on your blanks, then cutting on the band saw shouldn't
be too much of a problem. However, you may need a bigger band saw. I
would consider a 1 hp motor to be standard, and the proper blade makes
a huge difference as well. For me, I turn green wood, and use a 1/2
inch, 3 tpi blade, and the teeth have a set to them. This is not a
resawing blade for boards. If you are cutting blanks from dry wood,
then one of these blades would work fine. As a production turner,
having a big bandsaw (Laguna 16 HD) is a necessity as I find it easier
to use than a chainsaw, and not as noisy. There are a number of
bandsaw blade makers out there, and you can web search them. Call them
up and talk to them about your saw and blades. It could make a big
difference.

robo hippy



On Nov 20, 6:33*am, mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:29:57 -0500, "Dan Jefferson"
wrote:

Had to cut some rounds for turning out of maple today. *My 9" bandsaw would
not do the job. *I had to use a bigger saw at a seniors centre. *Is there
anyone cutting out rounds with something besides a bandsaw. *I certainly
don't want to buy bigger bandsaw.

Thanks for any replies...

What diameter rounds? How thick?
Without info, I'd guess that whatever size they were, they were more than a 9"
BS can handle... HP, blade, etc.. lots of factors involved..

Before I had a BS, I'd rough them with the chainsaw then trip what I could with
a recip saw with a 7 or 8" blade..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Dan Jefferson said:

The blade would become jambed in the wood.
I intend to try a new blade as has been suggested here.

Make certain that the blade width is small enough to achieve the
desired radius of cut, that there is "set" to the blade teeth, and use
a blade in the 3-5 TPI range. If the motor bogs, feed material slower.


Greg G.

Greg G. said:

Dan Jefferson said:

The blade would become jambed in the wood.
I intend to try a new blade as has been suggested here.

Make certain that the blade width is small enough to achieve the
desired radius of cut, that there is "set" to the blade teeth, and use
a blade in the 3-5 TPI range. If the motor bogs, feed material slower.

Before anyone asks, here is a brief generalization of
blade width vs. minimum cut radius:

Blade Width 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1"
Min. Radius 3/16" 5/16" 5/8" 1 1/2" 2 1/2" 5 1/2" 7"

I doubt that you can get a blade over 1/2" for such a small saw, so
cutting 6" diameter blanks should not be a problem. And remember the
chart represents the absolute minimum radius - a bit of extra
clearance is always appreciated. Cutting wood thicker than 2-3" is
probably going to be a tough job with a 9" saw. Very dense hardwoods
or tropicals like Ironwood or Ipe will be darned near
impossible/slower than a glacier.

Also keep in mind that if you're not using a circle guide when cutting
your blanks, your feed technique determines the actual cut radius as
seen by the blade. Uneven, coarse path adjustments can result in a
binding condition with even the best blade and saw.

Hope you get it resolved.


Greg G.