Jimbo,

Since everyone else is jumping in, I will too.

I drive the same lathe as you do, and I've been turning some big bowl blanks
(about 30 to 40#. ) They are roughed with a chainsaw, I don't have a
bandsaw.

My method is to mount the blank between two pointed centers, with minimum
friction. Result, the heavy side goes to the bottom. Then I raise one end
of the work, a little bit, and reinsert the center, and see where the heavy
spot is. Sometimes it takes a while, but I finally end up locating the
points where the piece is in balance. I can spin it by hand, and it stops
wherever it wants, no consistency.

Next, I lag screw on a faceplate, centered on one of the points. This
always disturbs the equilibrium a bit, but it's doable.

Then I crank the tailstock center into the wood, make SURE the speed is down
at the low level, stand out of the way, pull up my socks and flip the
switch. The machine always vibrates, but not too badly.

In about 10 minutes of cutting, I can remove most of the off center
material, at which time the machine stops vibrating and my pucker factor
goes down.

I'm finding that large bowls are good for occasional fun, but I prefer
smaller stuff.

Old Guy




"Jimbo" wrote in message
...
I was wondering if it is possible to in any way to slow down the motor
on the Jet without damage to it.

It would be possible to make a "souped up light dimmer" which is very
doable but will it cause damage to the motor?

After getting into turning I wish I would have bought a lathe that
goes slower for larger pieces.


Jimbo

"Old guy" wrote in
news:8664i.63689$n_.11928@attbi_s21:

Listen to 'old guys'

Jimbo,

Since everyone else is jumping in, I will too.

I drive the same lathe as you do, and I've been turning some big bowl
blanks (about 30 to 40#. ) They are roughed with a chainsaw, I don't
have a bandsaw.

My method is to mount the blank between two pointed centers, with
minimum friction. Result, the heavy side goes to the bottom. Then I
raise one end of the work, a little bit, and reinsert the center, and
see where the heavy spot is. Sometimes it takes a while, but I
finally end up locating the points where the piece is in balance. I
can spin it by hand, and it stops wherever it wants, no consistency.

Next, I lag screw on a faceplate, centered on one of the points. This
always disturbs the equilibrium a bit, but it's doable.

Then I crank the tailstock center into the wood, make SURE the speed
is down at the low level, stand out of the way, pull up my socks and
flip the switch. The machine always vibrates, but not too badly.

In about 10 minutes of cutting, I can remove most of the off center
material, at which time the machine stops vibrating and my pucker
factor goes down.

I'm finding that large bowls are good for occasional fun, but I prefer
smaller stuff.

Old Guy

Right on except, when you pull up socks, make sure you cinch up your
belt. Learnt that from an old guy when I wasn't even a young guy (all my
hair was on my head).
Hank