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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Delta DL40 electronic problem
Group,
Need help/advise. I am a high school shop teacher. We have a Delta DL40 16"electronic variable wood lathe. It quit working the other day. I replaced the power cord, it had more electrical tape than plastic. The cord was replaced with a lighter gage wire than original (I know mistake). The lathe and electronics all worked, as it should. After a short period of use the lathe shut down. I noticed the cord had gotten warm and the lathe would not restart. I replaced the cord with an appropriate gage wire, checked the F1 fuse it's good, F2 and F3 fuses soldered to the circuit board also look good. When the red on/off button is pulled to the ON position a relay on the circuit board clicks but no LED readout lights on the microprocessor control panel. I moved the microprocessor control panel to the alternative location with the same results. We have a second identical lathe and replaced the microprocessor control panel on the working lathe and the panel worked fine. Did I fry the electronics by having a to light gage wire? I looked for a thermal overload button on the motor but haven't found any. Besides the motor never got warm much less hot. Also, there was never that hot electrical smell. Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated. Gay |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Delta DL40 electronic problem
Hello Gay,
I would suggest that you contact Delta with the same explaniation. They should be able to guide you to a fix. It is quite possible that the relay that clicks when the switch is pulled to the on position is faulty and may have been the problem in the first place rather than the old power cord. Apparently, it applies power to the system. If a contact has broken, the relay could activate but not connect power. The manufacturer would be your best bet. Fred Holder http://www.fholder.com On Apr 23, 3:41 pm, "MGH" wrote: Group, Need help/advise. I am a high school shop teacher. We have a Delta DL40 16"electronic variable wood lathe. It quit working the other day. I replaced the power cord, it had more electrical tape than plastic. The cord was replaced with a lighter gage wire than original (I know mistake). The lathe and electronics all worked, as it should. After a short period of use the lathe shut down. I noticed the cord had gotten warm and the lathe would not restart. I replaced the cord with an appropriate gage wire, checked the F1 fuse it's good, F2 and F3 fuses soldered to the circuit board also look good. When the red on/off button is pulled to the ON position a relay on the circuit board clicks but no LED readout lights on the microprocessor control panel. I moved the microprocessor control panel to the alternative location with the same results. We have a second identical lathe and replaced the microprocessor control panel on the working lathe and the panel worked fine. Did I fry the electronics by having a to light gage wire? I looked for a thermal overload button on the motor but haven't found any. Besides the motor never got warm much less hot. Also, there was never that hot electrical smell. Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated. Gay |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.woodturning
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Delta DL40 electronic problem
"Fred Holder" wrote in message oups.com... Hello Gay, I would suggest that you contact Delta with the same explaniation. They should be able to guide you to a fix. It is quite possible that the relay that clicks when the switch is pulled to the on position is faulty and may have been the problem in the first place rather than the old power cord. Apparently, it applies power to the system. If a contact has broken, the relay could activate but not connect power. The manufacturer would be your best bet. Fred Holder What Fred said. You're really in the remove/replace game with modern boards. Not worth the time and equipment required to repair them. Shake and sniff troubleshooting is a thing of the past. From experience in IA, I suggest BX armor for future floor or wall wiring. Or drops, but no locking plugs if you use 'em.. |
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