How much wood should a pin-chuck chuck ?

I recently acquired a pin-chuck by mail order.

I had intended to use it on pieces of green stock of fairly small
sizes, but the part that goes into the wood (the shaft ?) is longer
than I expected.

Does the shaft need to be inserted to the full depth for the pin to
get a proper grip ?

If so, would it be possible to use a spacer drilled with a hole of
same diameter in order to limit the protrusion into the piece being
turned, while maintaining proper positioning of the pin ?

MTIA


only one p in my real address / un seul p dans ma véritable adresse

Cautiously try it.
It may be easier for others to answer if you include a few
dimensions.

Any reason a screw chuck isn't suitable if the pieces are only small?

Alan


On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 09:14:21 +0200, Peter Wells
wrote:


How much wood should a pin-chuck chuck ?

I recently acquired a pin-chuck by mail order.

I had intended to use it on pieces of green stock of fairly small
sizes, but the part that goes into the wood (the shaft ?) is longer
than I expected.

Does the shaft need to be inserted to the full depth for the pin to
get a proper grip ?

If so, would it be possible to use a spacer drilled with a hole of
same diameter in order to limit the protrusion into the piece being
turned, while maintaining proper positioning of the pin ?

MTIA


only one p in my real address / un seul p dans ma véritable adresse

"Peter Wells" wrote in message
...
I recently acquired a pin-chuck by mail order.

I had intended to use it on pieces of green stock of fairly small
sizes, but the part that goes into the wood (the shaft ?) is longer
than I expected.

Does the shaft need to be inserted to the full depth for the pin to
get a proper grip ?

If so, would it be possible to use a spacer drilled with a hole of
same diameter in order to limit the protrusion into the piece being
turned, while maintaining proper positioning of the pin ?

You don't need full depth on the shaft, and if a bit of the roll pin itself
is visible, it will still hold in sound wood. You do want the chuck to
bottom in the hole you bore for it, because with very soft or spalted woods
you might work the hole broader with a combination of out-of-balance
condition and starting shocks. Bottoming gives "flop" resistance.

As for your spacer idea, it's not necessary when the pin bottoms in the
hole. That's your clue to use a Forstner or other flat bottoming bit, and
to make sure the hole is clean for best use.

As to how much it will chuck, I will be swinging the inboard capacity of my
lathe (400mm), some over 200mm in depth of soaking wet (harvested two days
ago) hardwood on my 1" pin chuck. After I eat my oatmeal and get the stew
started in the crockpot.

Peter
My home made 1" pin chuck will work fine with a 16" bowl blank. I seldom use
it but I had to make one just to try it out :-) If you drill a flat bottomed
hole with a Forstner or similar type bit, no spacer is necessary. The flat
bottom against the flat of the chuck is what gives the holding power
ASSUMING, (1) the hole drilled is the same diameter as the chuck (2) the pin
is well seated (3) the wood is sound.

______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Peter Wells" wrote in message
...

How much wood should a pin-chuck chuck ?

I recently acquired a pin-chuck by mail order.

I had intended to use it on pieces of green stock of fairly small
sizes, but the part that goes into the wood (the shaft ?) is longer
than I expected.

Does the shaft need to be inserted to the full depth for the pin to
get a proper grip ?

If so, would it be possible to use a spacer drilled with a hole of
same diameter in order to limit the protrusion into the piece being
turned, while maintaining proper positioning of the pin ?

MTIA


only one p in my real address / un seul p dans ma véritable adresse

As regards screw chucks, the one I've been using has not held very
well when roughing out green bowl blanks so I thought I'd try an
alternative.

Thanks for all the good advice.


only one p in my real address / un seul p dans ma véritable adresse

"Peter Wells" wrote in message
...

As regards screw chucks, the one I've been using has not held very
well when roughing out green bowl blanks so I thought I'd try an
alternative.


Repeat suggestion. On heavy, wet soft woods diminish the starting shock by
giving the blank a turn with your hand before hitting the switch. If you've
got soft start, probably no problem. Really good idea if you have the
bi-directional chuck with just a flat milled for the roll pin. If you have
this type of arrangement, probably unnecessary.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...huck-Sheet.jpg

Keep the tailstock on your side until you're ready to reverse the piece, of
course, and consider leaving the pillar in the piece with a quarter inch or
so of wood around the initial bore as the piece dries. Makes a good place
to park your live center while you're hogging wood, and is removed only
after drying at the last when the blank is at its lightest and most
balanced. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...e/422896ce.jpg

That way you can drop the proper bit down the dry contracted hole and
re-true the bowl in the order you roughed it. With the pillar in place,
they take up more room on the shelf, but the air circulation is better for
drying.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...urlyYellow.jpg

For lighter, smaller stuff, consider pin jaws.

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 10:15:37 GMT, "George" wrote:





More great suggestions ! Thanks.


only one p in my real address / un seul p dans ma véritable adresse