I still want to fix a couple of pictures but the sharpening pages are done
or redone or whatever. Any comments are welcome.
http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Darrell Feltmate wrote:
I still want to fix a couple of pictures but the sharpening pages are done
or redone or whatever. Any comments are welcome.
http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html

Darrell,

Have been meaning to set up some type of system and your post prompted
me to get moving. I used your design with a few modifications.

I happened to have a set of strong drawer slides kicking around, and
they had a large triangle piece of metal on one end (was used to "hook"
the drawer front to the slider). One of these proved perfect as the
sliding base of the jig. To lock it in place at the distance from the
grinder, used a rubber tipped lockdown clamp that just presses down
against the slide. The triangular metal piece on the end worked well to
hold the v block in place.

Couple of things I noticed: It is very important to get the V in the
holder block to be exactly in the center of the wheel - I was slightly
off on my first attempt, and when I sharpened my first gouge, the
cutting edge was slightly lower on one side of the concave face. Once I
centered this, the cutting face was bang on.
Another thing was I used some 3/4 dowels - these were rather large when
sitting in the V block, and I found it affected the quality of the
cutting face as the "rocking motion " was not consistent - ground down
to more of a point where the dowel contacts the V, and it was much
easier to achieve a consistent face.

Last, but not least was my grinding wheel - I had picked up new one at
the local borg, simply marked as "Fine". Well, its not fine enough, I
find the edge is still a bit rough and I really need to get a better
wheel to achieve a smoother cutting face.

By the way, the one thing I really wanted to find an answer for was the
proper way to sharpen a bowl gouge that I have, it has the swept back
wings and I have been afraid to attempt to sharpen it for fear of
losing the face. I got a kick out of the fact the One picture you did
not have was of this gouge being sharpened! : )

All that said, your page was very informative and I don't think I would
have attempted the jig had it not been for the pictures you have of
your setup - I find I am more inclined to understand something visually
than written, and your page provided the perfect instructions for me.

Well Done, and Thank You!

My pleasure. There is a video of the Irish grind bowl gouge on the site now.
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"xcaper" wrote in message
ups.com...

Darrell Feltmate wrote:
I still want to fix a couple of pictures but the sharpening pages are
done
or redone or whatever. Any comments are welcome.
http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html

Darrell,

Have been meaning to set up some type of system and your post prompted
me to get moving. I used your design with a few modifications.

I happened to have a set of strong drawer slides kicking around, and
they had a large triangle piece of metal on one end (was used to "hook"
the drawer front to the slider). One of these proved perfect as the
sliding base of the jig. To lock it in place at the distance from the
grinder, used a rubber tipped lockdown clamp that just presses down
against the slide. The triangular metal piece on the end worked well to
hold the v block in place.

Couple of things I noticed: It is very important to get the V in the
holder block to be exactly in the center of the wheel - I was slightly
off on my first attempt, and when I sharpened my first gouge, the
cutting edge was slightly lower on one side of the concave face. Once I
centered this, the cutting face was bang on.
Another thing was I used some 3/4 dowels - these were rather large when
sitting in the V block, and I found it affected the quality of the
cutting face as the "rocking motion " was not consistent - ground down
to more of a point where the dowel contacts the V, and it was much
easier to achieve a consistent face.

Last, but not least was my grinding wheel - I had picked up new one at
the local borg, simply marked as "Fine". Well, its not fine enough, I
find the edge is still a bit rough and I really need to get a better
wheel to achieve a smoother cutting face.

By the way, the one thing I really wanted to find an answer for was the
proper way to sharpen a bowl gouge that I have, it has the swept back
wings and I have been afraid to attempt to sharpen it for fear of
losing the face. I got a kick out of the fact the One picture you did
not have was of this gouge being sharpened! : )

All that said, your page was very informative and I don't think I would
have attempted the jig had it not been for the pictures you have of
your setup - I find I am more inclined to understand something visually
than written, and your page provided the perfect instructions for me.

Well Done, and Thank You!

Darrell
Have just looked through all the instructions and video. You make it look very easy to the point that i will have a go this weekend. Just need to buy some dowel.
I brought a very cheap wet grinder with a normal grinding wheel attached. Up to now i have been free handing on the wet grinder, my spindle and bowl gouges tend to be sharpen to a point, its about time i had some conformity of shape which hopefully will cut down on sand paper usage
with thanks and keep up the great work
ps whats the difference between a finger nail grind and a irish grind please
mark

"Woodborg" wrote in message
...
Up to now i have been free handing on the wet grinder, my
spindle and bowl gouges tend to be sharpen to a point, its about time i
had some conformity of shape which hopefully will cut down on sand paper
usage
with thanks and keep up the great work
ps whats the difference between a finger nail grind and a irish grind
please

Expect some disappointment. Tools don't make the cuts, turners make the
cuts. Best way I've found to cut down on sandpaper is to save the best for
last. HSS gouges are great hoggers, but I can make my carbon tools sharper
faster. Shaping done, the finishing passes are the privilege of the sharp
tool.

I'm not good enough at freehand cutting and duplicating my cutting angles on
various work to make it worthwhile to jig for a consistent contour, so I use
the ABC method. All I have to remember on any tool is that steeper is best
for entry and cross-grain cutting, while shallow angles work best for
peeling down the grain. If I can't get the angle I need with a particular
tool, I select another one which has the proper width, angle of grind and
handle length. Once the bevel is supported behind the cut, makes no
difference how consistent the form of the gouge is. The wood will teach you
how it wishes to be cut, so hold the tool to do it that way, not how you
thought you held it last time in similar circumstances or the way you saw
turner X do it on a video. If you had an X-Y-Z computer program and
consistent material instead of A-B-C and twisted elm, the angle of your
tooling would matter a lot more, but even there the choice is often a
compromise when the angles vary.

Fingernail is a shorter Irish. The business end looks like an arc of a
circle when viewed from the inside. Not sure where the textbook answer
resides, but if the edge is back a full radius or beyond, it's not a
fingernail in my book. Half radius is a good comfortable peeling contour.
Back farther, especially on deeper gouges, where the wing is longer anyway,
call it Irish. Then there's another variable in the amount of roll you do
(or don't on some gouges) put on the edge, varying the angle of the grind as
you draw back the ears, and the width of the nose you leave, where the
textbooks are mute on when a pinky fingernail becomes a pointed gouge.

If this sounds vague, it should. Lots of different people grind a lot of
different ways to cut the same wood. Rather than change your posture and
angle to suit some grind, change your grind to allow you to cut at some
angle - the wood will teach you - by getting another gouge to fit in
narrower or poke in deeper. I have to laugh at folks leaning out and down,
peering inside a bowl as they try to make the latest and most fashionable
grind on their long-handled gouge make the turn they need to fair the
inside. I'm not proud. If the wood demands it, I'll change gouges in the
middle of a finishing pass rather than have to stoop or resort to 100 grit.
Buying another tool to grind a different angle, if it lets you keep your
face out of danger and your back straight, is well worth the expense.

Woodborg a fingernail grind is just that, looks like a fingernail shape
and is typical used on spindle gouges, but can also be made on a bowl
gouge, however the irish grind was devised for the problem we have
turning the bottom of deeper bowls, where the gouge's bevel on the
straight across grind or fingernail shape can not and does not contact
the wood anymore, and turners than used scrapers to take that wood out,
making for some real surface problems a lot of times.
The irish grind does make it much easier to do this by having the wings
of the deep bowl gouge ground back and onto the side of the gouge, and
makes it possible to cut the wood all the way from the side down to the
very center.
Using the jig does not make the profile though, if you grind on the
sides you'll end up with a point, you will have to first get the
profile right, and then it is much easier to keep that profile with the
jig, also less material to grind away so it is much quicker.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo



Woodborg wrote:
Darrell
Have just looked through all the instructions and video. You make it
look very easy to the point that i will have a go this weekend. Just
need to buy some dowel.
I brought a very cheap wet grinder with a normal grinding wheel
attached. Up to now i have been free handing on the wet grinder, my
spindle and bowl gouges tend to be sharpen to a point, its about time i
had some conformity of shape which hopefully will cut down on sand paper
usage
with thanks and keep up the great work
ps whats the difference between a finger nail grind and a irish grind
please
mark




--
Woodborg

Mike
A fingernail grind is supposed to look like a lady's fingernail, somewaht
more pointed than a man's and longer. Generally it is used on spindle gouges
but generally only takes you so far in wood turning. An Irish grind, or
Ellsworth grind or long winged grind, or ... grind is one with the wings or
edges of the bould gouge ground back. Generally the tip is ground to a small
radius and about 70 degrees and the wings brought back about 3/4" which
should result in an everage grind of about 45 degrees although I think this
differs with the radius of the gouge.
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Woodborg" wrote in message
...

Darrell
Have just looked through all the instructions and video. You make it
look very easy to the point that i will have a go this weekend. Just
need to buy some dowel.
I brought a very cheap wet grinder with a normal grinding wheel
attached. Up to now i have been free handing on the wet grinder, my
spindle and bowl gouges tend to be sharpen to a point, its about time i
had some conformity of shape which hopefully will cut down on sand paper
usage
with thanks and keep up the great work
ps whats the difference between a finger nail grind and a irish grind
please
mark




--
Woodborg

Darrell

I have just made the base part and the arm assembly and now have a uniform cut on my roughing gouge and spindle gouge. I use to think that they had a could even cut when i free handed on the wet stone but after 2 rotations using the jig i could see area where it hadn't sharpened, thus poorly done free hand. After getting a even allround cut on the rough gouge i tested the end and it even felt sharpe. g

I have made one jig part for my bowl gouge, but not having any CA have had to wait over night for the glue to dry, so shall be trying out the side to side rolling method for the bowl gouge this morning. Shortly followed by turning another peice out of the fire wood pile. At this rate i hope it its not going to be a cold winter as i will only have shavings to burn.

It only took 1 hr to make the base and arm. The only thing i had to buy was the dowel £2 for a 4 metre length. I think this works out a lot cheaper than buying a commercial jig. Thanks Darrell for the great plans
Mark

Mark
My pleasure. Wood turning is fun and sharing ideas is fun. Win, win all the
way :-)
______
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS, Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com
"Woodborg" wrote in message
...

Darrell

I have just made the base part and the arm assembly and now have a
uniform cut on my roughing gouge and spindle gouge. I use to think that
they had a could even cut when i free handed on the wet stone but after
2 rotations using the jig i could see area where it hadn't sharpened,
thus poorly done free hand. After getting a even allround cut on the
rough gouge i tested the end and it even felt sharpe. g

I have made one jig part for my bowl gouge, but not having any CA have
had to wait over night for the glue to dry, so shall be trying out the
side to side rolling method for the bowl gouge this morning. Shortly
followed by turning another peice out of the fire wood pile. At this
rate i hope it its not going to be a cold winter as i will only have
shavings to burn.

It only took 1 hr to make the base and arm. The only thing i had to buy
was the dowel £2 for a 4 metre length. I think this works out a lot
cheaper than buying a commercial jig. Thanks Darrell for the great
plans
Mark




--
Woodborg