One of the things we all do, or at least I assume so, is apply finish to a
piece. Some of us use oils and in particular products that are mainly or
partially linseed oil, either boiled or raw. Linseed oil in particular cures
with an exothermic reaction, that is it gives off heat as it dries. On a
piece of wood this is not a problem, not is it on a rag. However, if a pile
of rags damp with linseed oil are piled high, they become a fire starter as
one heats the other which heats the other and so on until they catch fire.
This is why we are incouraged to prevent oily rags from sitting around the
shop. I am not sure of the reacion types of other oils, but why take
chances? Dispose of them wisely.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:8E9Bf.131911$km.90128@edtnps89...
However, if a pile
of rags damp with linseed oil are piled high, they become a fire starter
as
one heats the other which heats the other and so on until they catch fire.
This is why we are incouraged to prevent oily rags from sitting around the
shop. I am not sure of the reacion types of other oils, but why take
chances? Dispose of them wisely.

Just pitched mine into the woodstove where they can do some good. Fair's
fair, after all, I turned a piece of firewood today....

Matter of fact, made another Feltmate wing. Still haven't sold one, though.

In article 8E9Bf.131911$km.90128@edtnps89,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I am not sure of the reacion types of other oils, but why take
chances? Dispose of them wisely.

If the oil hardens as it cures then it is subject to spontaneous
combustion. Boiled Linseed and Tung oils are the most common of the
hazardous wadded-up rags - along with alkyd paints and varnishes which
usually use one or both of these oils in the formula.

Oils derived from petroleum and animals don't cure and thus don't
self-combust but are fire hazards in proximity to heat and flames.

To be safe you should do one or more of the following:

1) Not use any product containing a hardening oil.
2) Spread the rag out flat on a non-combustible surface until stiff.
3) Drop the rag into a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
4) Submerge the rag into a container full of water.
5) Place the rag into a fireplace or woodstove and burn it intentionally.

Worst thing to do is place it on, under or near other combustible
materials.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

"Owen Lowe" wrote: (clip) Oils derived from petroleum and animals don't
cure and thus don't self-combust (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Curing oils like linseed and tung oil, especially with driers added, are the
most susceptible to spontaneous combustion. But petroleum oils and other
non-curing oils do react with oxygen, so it is possible for them to heat up
if improperly handled, i.e., piles of oily rags with poor air circulation.
If you Google on accidental spontaneous combustion, you will find that even
coal is subject to this phenomenon--and it certainly is not a "curing" oil.

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 23:06:56 -0800, Owen Lowe wrote:

In article 8E9Bf.131911$km.90128@edtnps89,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I am not sure of the reacion types of other oils, but why take
chances? Dispose of them wisely.

If the oil hardens as it cures then it is subject to spontaneous
combustion. Boiled Linseed and Tung oils are the most common of the
hazardous wadded-up rags - along with alkyd paints and varnishes which
usually use one or both of these oils in the formula.

Oils derived from petroleum and animals don't cure and thus don't
self-combust but are fire hazards in proximity to heat and flames.

To be safe you should do one or more of the following:

1) Not use any product containing a hardening oil.
2) Spread the rag out flat on a non-combustible surface until stiff.
3) Drop the rag into a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
4) Submerge the rag into a container full of water.
5) Place the rag into a fireplace or woodstove and burn it intentionally.

Worst thing to do is place it on, under or near other combustible
materials.

I pick door number 4!

I've found that if I'm using an oil that "hardens", the rag is NOT going to ever
be soft again if I allow it to dry...

Since I have most of a 5 my 5 gallon can of LDD left, I keep a 5 gallon bucket
with a LDD/water mix next to the washer, (which unfortunately is in the shop),
and throw all the used rags in it... when It's full, they get dumped into the
washer and laundered... works pretty well and might use up this @)*$@*$* LDD
some day..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 23:06:56 -0800, Owen Lowe
wrote:

In article 8E9Bf.131911$km.90128@edtnps89,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I am not sure of the reacion types of other oils, but why take
chances? Dispose of them wisely.

If the oil hardens as it cures then it is subject to spontaneous
combustion. Boiled Linseed and Tung oils are the most common of the
hazardous wadded-up rags - along with alkyd paints and varnishes which
usually use one or both of these oils in the formula.

Oils derived from petroleum and animals don't cure and thus don't
self-combust but are fire hazards in proximity to heat and flames.

To be safe you should do one or more of the following:

1) Not use any product containing a hardening oil.
2) Spread the rag out flat on a non-combustible surface until stiff.
3) Drop the rag into a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
4) Submerge the rag into a container full of water.
5) Place the rag into a fireplace or woodstove and burn it intentionally.

Worst thing to do is place it on, under or near other combustible
materials.

I pick door number 4!

I've found that if I'm using an oil that "hardens", the rag is NOT going
to ever
be soft again if I allow it to dry...

Since I have most of a 5 my 5 gallon can of LDD left, I keep a 5 gallon
bucket
with a LDD/water mix next to the washer, (which unfortunately is in the
shop),
and throw all the used rags in it... when It's full, they get dumped into
the
washer and laundered... works pretty well and might use up this @)*$@*$*
LDD
some day..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm


----- Original Message -----
From: "mac davis"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: Fire Safety issue, not really off topic


On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 23:06:56 -0800, Owen Lowe
wrote:

In article 8E9Bf.131911$km.90128@edtnps89,
"Darrell Feltmate" wrote:

I am not sure of the reacion types of other oils, but why take
chances? Dispose of them wisely.

If the oil hardens as it cures then it is subject to spontaneous
combustion. Boiled Linseed and Tung oils are the most common of the
hazardous wadded-up rags - along with alkyd paints and varnishes which
usually use one or both of these oils in the formula.

Oils derived from petroleum and animals don't cure and thus don't
self-combust but are fire hazards in proximity to heat and flames.

To be safe you should do one or more of the following:

1) Not use any product containing a hardening oil.
2) Spread the rag out flat on a non-combustible surface until stiff.
3) Drop the rag into a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
4) Submerge the rag into a container full of water.
5) Place the rag into a fireplace or woodstove and burn it intentionally.

Worst thing to do is place it on, under or near other combustible
materials.

I pick door number 4!

I've found that if I'm using an oil that "hardens", the rag is NOT going
to ever
be soft again if I allow it to dry...

Since I have most of a 5 my 5 gallon can of LDD left, I keep a 5 gallon
bucket
with a LDD/water mix next to the washer, (which unfortunately is in the
shop),
and throw all the used rags in it... when It's full, they get dumped into
the
washer and laundered... works pretty well and might use up this @)*$@*$*
LDD
some day..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Mac, not trying to change the subject here but...........it sounds like you
no longer use the LDD. Did you spring for a Kiln or just give up the LDD. I
am just now trying the LDD. It seems to have worked for me. No nasty splits
in a piece of walnut that were not already there. We are at three days and
counting. :-)
Lyndell

On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 01:46:06 GMT, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:


Mac, not trying to change the subject here but...........it sounds like you
no longer use the LDD. Did you spring for a Kiln or just give up the LDD. I
am just now trying the LDD. It seems to have worked for me. No nasty splits
in a piece of walnut that were not already there. We are at three days and
counting. :-)
Lyndell

I tried a lot of different methods with the LDD, with the help of our local LDD
wizard and Ron Kent's web site, but wasn't happy with the results... color,
texture and appearance of the wood just wasn't the same...

I go more with robohippy's method now... turn it thin, sand as much as possible
and let um warp...

Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

In article ,
mac davis wrote:
I go more with robohippy's method now... turn it thin, sand as much as
possible
and let um warp...

Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Mac,
I just read somewhere on the 'net of a turner who does this BUT
completely seals the outside with paraffin wax and then paper bags the
piece. He uses the wax as a stick and applies it to the spinning bowl
and then applies shavings to create friction so the wax melts into the
wood. Apparently no splitting or distortion occurs and an oil or wax
finish can be easily applied afterwards. This makes a helluva lot of
sense to me and is definitely on my must try list.
Peter

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