Turned some more apricot tonight. Made two small weed
pots for prizes at a reunion picnic tomorrow. One
provided its own title and required a little outside of
the box thinking to make it work. Pic in
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking - message title
is Drink Me.

If you don't feel like jumping over to that group
click here and scroll to the bottom of the page.

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/.../Turning5.html

Turning a 4x4 chunk of pine, cut from some header
scrap, is a lot different from turning green apricot
in the 1 1/2 - 2 1/2" diameter range.. A big roughing
gouge sure is handy to have. Didn't dare try the
1 1/2" oval skew. That thing's just to scary for
me at this point.

Fun being ankle deep in shavings and chips.

charlie b

"charlie b" wrote in message
...

Turning a 4x4 chunk of pine, cut from some header
scrap, is a lot different from turning green apricot
in the 1 1/2 - 2 1/2" diameter range.. A big roughing
gouge sure is handy to have. Didn't dare try the
1 1/2" oval skew. That thing's just to scary for
me at this point.

Fun being ankle deep in shavings and chips.

You've got a much more stable and thus controllable version of that skew
built into the roughing gouge. Bring your rest in as close as you dare and
you can skew with the upturned portions of a "U" shape gouge , and without
that point hanging out there, ready to grab if the tool rolls on that narrow
radius.

http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...Whittling.html
http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...4-Surface.html

Put a bag underneath to grab the chips and save a bunch of effort.

http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...uck-Green.html

I _hate_ bending, sweeping and scooping!

George wrote:

You've got a much more stable and thus controllable version of that skew
built into the roughing gouge. Bring your rest in as close as you dare and
you can skew with the upturned portions of a "U" shape gouge , and without
that point hanging out there, ready to grab if the tool rolls on that narrow
radius.

I've got no problem with the rectangular x-section 1/2" skew
from a Sorby mini-set and can get into undercuts with the heel
corner and in deeper with the long point - on smaller diameter stuff.
But at 4 or more inches in diameter with the oval x-section larger
skew I feel like I've got less control. Could also be that the
larger with the larger skew and its much longer handle moment arm
small movements of the handle hand result in larger movement
at the cutting end.

http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...Whittling.html
http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...4-Surface.html

Put a bag underneath to grab the chips and save a bunch of effort.

http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...uck-Green.html

I _hate_ bending, sweeping and scooping!

I'm on a JET midi-lathe used on my bench top. Don't have room for
putting it on a dedicated stand, which, even with sand bags, probably
wouldn't be as stabile a base as my 200+ pound workbench.

What I really need to do is finish putting together the real
1400 CFM , 25 pound air foil impellar, cyclone dust collector
and use the adjustable collection gizmo I already have. My old
Delta "1100" cfm unit with 4" ducting worked semi-ok before
I took it apart to upgrade to 6" ducting and the new cyclone.
Probably should just put the old dust collector set up back
together unitl the new cyclone is finished and I have all the
6" parts on hand.

Anyway, thanks for the tips. Been concentrating on forms
and maybe need to think through the mechanics of some
of the tools. Maybe, just maybe the college Statics and
Dynamics classes will finally get used in the real world.

charlie b

Sleepless in San Jose
thanks to a very neurotic visiting friend
1 am -a run to an all night pharmacy
2 am - slamming bathroom door
2:30 am - slamming bathroom door
AND toilet lid
3:15 am - slamming bathroom door
AND toilet lid AND "I'm really
sorry about making all that noise"
4:15 am - "Can I use your phone to
call my sister in New York
4:25 am -"Is it ok if I take a shower?"

:
:
the one nerve I have left is really,
really, really getting stretched thin!

George wrote:
"charlie b" wrote in message
...

Turning a 4x4 chunk of pine, cut from some header
scrap, is a lot different from turning green apricot
in the 1 1/2 - 2 1/2" diameter range.. A big roughing
gouge sure is handy to have. Didn't dare try the
1 1/2" oval skew. That thing's just to scary for
me at this point.

Fun being ankle deep in shavings and chips.


You've got a much more stable and thus controllable version of that skew
built into the roughing gouge. Bring your rest in as close as you dare and
you can skew with the upturned portions of a "U" shape gouge , and without
that point hanging out there, ready to grab if the tool rolls on that narrow
radius.

http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...Whittling.html
http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...4-Surface.html

Put a bag underneath to grab the chips and save a bunch of effort.

http://georgephoto.photosite.com/Geo...uck-Green.html

I _hate_ bending, sweeping and scooping!



And, if you grind the wings back on the roughing gouge, you have an even
better and more controllable version of a skew. If you hold the tool
handle perpendicular to the bed and roll it over to about 2 o'clock (or
10 o'clock, handle low), you will be making a shearing cut. If you hold
it at 12 o'clock it works like any other roughing gouge. Last weekend I
used somebody else's straight-across roughing gouge and it felt crude
and awkward compared to mine Also, the tool rolls smoothly, something
which almost no skew does, whether standard, oval or something in
between. The exception -- my home-made round skews -- 1/4" and 3/8".
They roll beautifully for obvious reasons.

I sold my 1 1/4" oval skew years ago -- a useless tool in my opinion.
If I had a lot of money in my 3/4 round edged skew (not oval), that
would be the next to go. Now my major use for it is for cleaning up the
outside of bowls (yes!) using a technique demonstrated by Guilio
Marcolongo at the AAW year before last.

To complete the picture, I roll beads with a 3/8 beading and parting
tool (many of the Brits do this) or if they are too small to get in with
that tool, I'll use one of my two small round skews.

Bill

Are you putting anything (i.e. test tube, plastic pipe, etc).
into the center of the weedpot to hold water for the weed?
bernie feinerman

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
m...

And, if you grind the wings back on the roughing gouge, you have an even
better and more controllable version of a skew. If you hold the tool
handle perpendicular to the bed and roll it over to about 2 o'clock (or 10
o'clock, handle low), you will be making a shearing cut. If you hold it
at 12 o'clock it works like any other roughing gouge. Last weekend I used
somebody else's straight-across roughing gouge and it felt crude and
awkward compared to mine Also, the tool rolls smoothly, something which
almost no skew does, whether standard, oval or something in between. The
exception -- my home-made round skews -- 1/4" and 3/8". They roll
beautifully for obvious reasons.

I sold my 1 1/4" oval skew years ago -- a useless tool in my opinion. If I
had a lot of money in my 3/4 round edged skew (not oval), that would be
the next to go. Now my major use for it is for cleaning up the outside of
bowls (yes!) using a technique demonstrated by Guilio Marcolongo at the
AAW year before last.

To complete the picture, I roll beads with a 3/8 beading and parting tool
(many of the Brits do this) or if they are too small to get in with that
tool, I'll use one of my two small round skews.


Perpendicular to the bed? Why on earth would I want to lose the stability
of my toolrest? Did you look at the pictures where the regular pattern was
fully supported parallel to the bed, shearing and making twisted shavings?
It serves as a skew for cleaning up all convex work, without the tippiness
of a narrow tool.

I also own the Sorby 35mm forged gouge, which came ground as you modified
your roughing gouge, but it gets help from the toolrest all the time, too.
Better control.

I'm a firm fan of the beading tool over that grabby skew for cutting beads,
though the skew does excel at planing cuts. I would have a straight chisel
over a skew in the "standard" sets.

George wrote:
"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
m...


And, if you grind the wings back on the roughing gouge, you have an even
better and more controllable version of a skew. If you hold the tool
handle perpendicular to the bed and roll it over to about 2 o'clock (or 10
o'clock, handle low), you will be making a shearing cut. If you hold it
at 12 o'clock it works like any other roughing gouge. Last weekend I used
somebody else's straight-across roughing gouge and it felt crude and
awkward compared to mine Also, the tool rolls smoothly, something which
almost no skew does, whether standard, oval or something in between. The
exception -- my home-made round skews -- 1/4" and 3/8". They roll
beautifully for obvious reasons.

I sold my 1 1/4" oval skew years ago -- a useless tool in my opinion. If I
had a lot of money in my 3/4 round edged skew (not oval), that would be
the next to go. Now my major use for it is for cleaning up the outside of
bowls (yes!) using a technique demonstrated by Guilio Marcolongo at the
AAW year before last.

To complete the picture, I roll beads with a 3/8 beading and parting tool
(many of the Brits do this) or if they are too small to get in with that
tool, I'll use one of my two small round skews.



Perpendicular to the bed? Why on earth would I want to lose the stability
of my toolrest? Did you look at the pictures where the regular pattern was
fully supported parallel to the bed, shearing and making twisted shavings?
It serves as a skew for cleaning up all convex work, without the tippiness
of a narrow tool.

I also own the Sorby 35mm forged gouge, which came ground as you modified
your roughing gouge, but it gets help from the toolrest all the time, too.
Better control.

I'm a firm fan of the beading tool over that grabby skew for cutting beads,
though the skew does excel at planing cuts. I would have a straight chisel
over a skew in the "standard" sets.




I guess that I didn't make myself clear. I get very good support from
the tool rest -- and regardless of how I rotate the tool, the point of
support is directly under the point where the cut is being made. That
is not the case with skews, btw.

In order to get the skewing cut with the standard grind for a roughing
gouge, you need to swing the handle left or right. Now the support
(point of contact with the tool rest) is farther away from the cut so
supports less well.

Bill