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urchaidh
 
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Default firproofing steelwork

Anyone got any advice on fitting B. Gypsum Fireliner board onto
internal steelwork? I need 1hr protection on an interior standard
(veritcal 150mm PFC) and beam (horizontal 178mm UB/RSJ) so I'm looking
at 15mm.

The architect has specified Gyplyner system to do this which looks like
it will work just fine though I have two concerns. The first is cost,
obviously.

The second is that the PFC standard is bolted to a 100mm single brick
wall so it already protrudes by 25mm each side, add another 15mm each
side for the fireproof board and that's 40mm (plus) I need to make up
on each side to make the wall flish with the fireboard. The Gyplyner
system looks like it will impose yet another standoff that I'd rather
avoid.

I can't find out from the White Book if a gap between board and
steelwork is required to achieve fireproofing. If not, can I just glue
the board to the steelwork where I have a flat surface and what
adhesive would folks recommend?

For normal plasterboarding I'd use wooden dwangs* hamered into the
channel and face of the beam for the open sections, but that seems a
bit useless for fireproofing as the baord may not protect the dwangs so
the baord would just fall off anyway.

Anyway, this is a longer post than I inteneded so, please, any comments
on this sort of thing greatly appreciatted.

* is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? I take it to
mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can
later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to.

  #2   Report Post  
The Natural Philosopher
 
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Default

urchaidh wrote:

Anyone got any advice on fitting B. Gypsum Fireliner board onto
internal steelwork? I need 1hr protection on an interior standard
(veritcal 150mm PFC) and beam (horizontal 178mm UB/RSJ) so I'm looking
at 15mm.

The architect has specified Gyplyner system to do this which looks like
it will work just fine though I have two concerns. The first is cost,
obviously.

The second is that the PFC standard is bolted to a 100mm single brick
wall so it already protrudes by 25mm each side, add another 15mm each
side for the fireproof board and that's 40mm (plus) I need to make up
on each side to make the wall flish with the fireboard. The Gyplyner
system looks like it will impose yet another standoff that I'd rather
avoid.

I can't find out from the White Book if a gap between board and
steelwork is required to achieve fireproofing. If not, can I just glue
the board to the steelwork where I have a flat surface and what
adhesive would folks recommend?

For normal plasterboarding I'd use wooden dwangs* hamered into the
channel and face of the beam for the open sections, but that seems a
bit useless for fireproofing as the baord may not protect the dwangs so
the baord would just fall off anyway.

Anyway, this is a longer post than I inteneded so, please, any comments
on this sort of thing greatly appreciatted.

* is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? I take it to
mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can
later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to.

No idea if its legal, but a hilti nail gun can fire steel pins through
steel beams...

I would think glue is not on - it might fail and leave te steel e=xposed
in a fire.

Personally I'd drill and use self taps.
  #3   Report Post  
andrewpreece
 
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Default


"urchaidh" wrote in message
ps.com...
Anyone got any advice on fitting B. Gypsum Fireliner board onto
internal steelwork? I need 1hr protection on an interior standard
(veritcal 150mm PFC) and beam (horizontal 178mm UB/RSJ) so I'm looking
at 15mm.

The architect has specified Gyplyner system to do this which looks like
it will work just fine though I have two concerns. The first is cost,
obviously.

The second is that the PFC standard is bolted to a 100mm single brick
wall so it already protrudes by 25mm each side, add another 15mm each
side for the fireproof board and that's 40mm (plus) I need to make up
on each side to make the wall flish with the fireboard. The Gyplyner
system looks like it will impose yet another standoff that I'd rather
avoid.

I can't find out from the White Book if a gap between board and
steelwork is required to achieve fireproofing. If not, can I just glue
the board to the steelwork where I have a flat surface and what
adhesive would folks recommend?

For normal plasterboarding I'd use wooden dwangs* hamered into the
channel and face of the beam for the open sections, but that seems a
bit useless for fireproofing as the baord may not protect the dwangs so
the baord would just fall off anyway.

Anyway, this is a longer post than I inteneded so, please, any comments
on this sort of thing greatly appreciatted.

* is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? I take it to
mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can
later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to.


An earlier thread said 'dwang' is Scottish for 'noggin'.

Andy.



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Capitol
 
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Default

Haven't managed to follow all of the description, but 9.5mm
plasterboard, wired to the beam at 100mm intervals and covered with
12.5mm of plaster is deemed to meet the 1hr requirements AIUI. Another
alternative alternative is to use metal lathing (expamet) with 12.5mm of
gypsum plaster over it. Not sure about this, but maybe 12.5mm of
Masterboard? can meet the regulations. try these on your BCO. It used to
be Schedule 8 of the building regs.

Regards
Capitol
  #5   Report Post  
Owain
 
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Default

urchaidh wrote:
* is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be?


It is, it means noggin

I take it to
mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can
later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to.


That AFAIK is a 'batten' on both sides of the border

Owain




  #6   Report Post  
jacob
 
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Default

Another option is fireproof intumescent paint. Expensive but space saving.
http://www.envirograf.com/products/product083.html

cheers

Jacob
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