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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Anyone got any advice on fitting B. Gypsum Fireliner board onto
internal steelwork? I need 1hr protection on an interior standard (veritcal 150mm PFC) and beam (horizontal 178mm UB/RSJ) so I'm looking at 15mm. The architect has specified Gyplyner system to do this which looks like it will work just fine though I have two concerns. The first is cost, obviously. The second is that the PFC standard is bolted to a 100mm single brick wall so it already protrudes by 25mm each side, add another 15mm each side for the fireproof board and that's 40mm (plus) I need to make up on each side to make the wall flish with the fireboard. The Gyplyner system looks like it will impose yet another standoff that I'd rather avoid. I can't find out from the White Book if a gap between board and steelwork is required to achieve fireproofing. If not, can I just glue the board to the steelwork where I have a flat surface and what adhesive would folks recommend? For normal plasterboarding I'd use wooden dwangs* hamered into the channel and face of the beam for the open sections, but that seems a bit useless for fireproofing as the baord may not protect the dwangs so the baord would just fall off anyway. Anyway, this is a longer post than I inteneded so, please, any comments on this sort of thing greatly appreciatted. * is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? I take it to mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to. |
#2
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urchaidh wrote:
Anyone got any advice on fitting B. Gypsum Fireliner board onto internal steelwork? I need 1hr protection on an interior standard (veritcal 150mm PFC) and beam (horizontal 178mm UB/RSJ) so I'm looking at 15mm. The architect has specified Gyplyner system to do this which looks like it will work just fine though I have two concerns. The first is cost, obviously. The second is that the PFC standard is bolted to a 100mm single brick wall so it already protrudes by 25mm each side, add another 15mm each side for the fireproof board and that's 40mm (plus) I need to make up on each side to make the wall flish with the fireboard. The Gyplyner system looks like it will impose yet another standoff that I'd rather avoid. I can't find out from the White Book if a gap between board and steelwork is required to achieve fireproofing. If not, can I just glue the board to the steelwork where I have a flat surface and what adhesive would folks recommend? For normal plasterboarding I'd use wooden dwangs* hamered into the channel and face of the beam for the open sections, but that seems a bit useless for fireproofing as the baord may not protect the dwangs so the baord would just fall off anyway. Anyway, this is a longer post than I inteneded so, please, any comments on this sort of thing greatly appreciatted. * is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? I take it to mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to. No idea if its legal, but a hilti nail gun can fire steel pins through steel beams... I would think glue is not on - it might fail and leave te steel e=xposed in a fire. Personally I'd drill and use self taps. |
#3
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![]() "urchaidh" wrote in message ps.com... Anyone got any advice on fitting B. Gypsum Fireliner board onto internal steelwork? I need 1hr protection on an interior standard (veritcal 150mm PFC) and beam (horizontal 178mm UB/RSJ) so I'm looking at 15mm. The architect has specified Gyplyner system to do this which looks like it will work just fine though I have two concerns. The first is cost, obviously. The second is that the PFC standard is bolted to a 100mm single brick wall so it already protrudes by 25mm each side, add another 15mm each side for the fireproof board and that's 40mm (plus) I need to make up on each side to make the wall flish with the fireboard. The Gyplyner system looks like it will impose yet another standoff that I'd rather avoid. I can't find out from the White Book if a gap between board and steelwork is required to achieve fireproofing. If not, can I just glue the board to the steelwork where I have a flat surface and what adhesive would folks recommend? For normal plasterboarding I'd use wooden dwangs* hamered into the channel and face of the beam for the open sections, but that seems a bit useless for fireproofing as the baord may not protect the dwangs so the baord would just fall off anyway. Anyway, this is a longer post than I inteneded so, please, any comments on this sort of thing greatly appreciatted. * is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? I take it to mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to. An earlier thread said 'dwang' is Scottish for 'noggin'. Andy. |
#4
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Haven't managed to follow all of the description, but 9.5mm
plasterboard, wired to the beam at 100mm intervals and covered with 12.5mm of plaster is deemed to meet the 1hr requirements AIUI. Another alternative alternative is to use metal lathing (expamet) with 12.5mm of gypsum plaster over it. Not sure about this, but maybe 12.5mm of Masterboard? can meet the regulations. try these on your BCO. It used to be Schedule 8 of the building regs. Regards Capitol |
#5
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urchaidh wrote:
* is 'dwang' a Scottish term, it sounds like it might be? It is, it means noggin I take it to mean a bit of wood fastned into brickwork or steelwork that you can later fasten other timber (or plasterboard fittings) to. That AFAIK is a 'batten' on both sides of the border Owain |
#6
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Another option is fireproof intumescent paint. Expensive but space saving.
http://www.envirograf.com/products/product083.html cheers Jacob |
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