Hi,
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating. The joists are spaced at 40cm,
from middle to middle
so according to readers digest 18mm Chippy would be fine.

http://www.readersdigest.co.uk/diy/webpages/274_275.htm

I am wondering if 22mm would be better as I will have less packing out
to do, to bring the floor to the same level as the hall as the current
floorboards are around 25mm thick. Or should I stick to 18mm and use
something to pack it up to the height of hall?

It is a tenament 1st floor flat in case that makes a difference.

What are the best materials for packing, I was just going to use some
hardboard I have.

I am going for toungue and groove so I lay long edge across joists and
not need to make noggings.

Then I can put a layer of ply down and tile. Actually this will add
height, so should I worry too much about making the chipboard floor
match the hall floor height? Only issue would if there are any boards
in kitchen I can't lift there will be a height mismatch.

I am also hoping that once the chippy is screwed down, and level it
will stop the washing machine dancing across the kitchen.

Any tips most welcome :-)

tks

(inNeedofHelp) wrote in message . com...
Hi,
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating. The joists are spaced at 40cm,
from middle to middle
so according to readers digest 18mm Chippy would be fine.

http://www.readersdigest.co.uk/diy/webpages/274_275.htm

not in MHE. 18mm will bend, bounce and bow on 400mm (BTW whatever
size make sure it is floor grade & moisture resist - moisture slowly
over the years swells chipboard until it is like cardboard). I ripped
up mine & replaced it with 22mm T&G in the bedroom. I used 22mm in
the bathroom well protected by varnish & vinyl floor tiles, that has
been OK.




I am wondering if 22mm would be better as I will have less packing out
to do, to bring the floor to the same level as the hall as the current
floorboards are around 25mm thick. Or should I stick to 18mm and use
something to pack it up to the height of hall?

18mm is a waste of time & money

It is a tenament 1st floor flat in case that makes a difference.

What are the best materials for packing, I was just going to use some
hardboard I have.

If yoo're putting heavy weights on the floor, especially dynamic ones
like a washing m/c, you should look at reinforcing the joists, perhaps
by doubling up and/or by (additional) herring bone strutting

You can make a guesstimate as to what is needed by jumping up & down
plus observing what happens as you walk slowly over the floor -
perhaps 2 people together if you're small.

I've no experience of plywood, but I have been told by those who have
that 18mm or thicker ply is superior to both chipboard & T&G for
rigidity.

HTH

"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating. The joists are spaced at 40cm,
from middle to middle
so according to readers digest 18mm Chippy would be fine.

http://www.readersdigest.co.uk/diy/webpages/274_275.htm

I am wondering if 22mm would be better as I will have less packing out
to do, to bring the floor to the same level as the hall as the current
floorboards are around 25mm thick. Or should I stick to 18mm and use
something to pack it up to the height of hall?



I would probably use 7" x 1" PAR because it's not tongued and grooved. It
means you don't make a mess if you ever need to get to any electrics etc.
It's more expensive than chipboard but when planed will be the nominal 22mm.
It's also fairly moisture resistant and won't swell. It can also take
varnish and look good. Just my two pennies worth!

In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating.

I'd advise against this. I've seen too many chipboard kitchen floors that
have to be replaced through water spillage and subsequent swelling.

I'd fix the existing floorboards. It's unlikely they are all scrap. You
might find decent secondhand ones at a reclaim yard that are exactly the
same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable -
they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is near
impossible.

--
Is the hardness of the butter proportional to the softness of the bread?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:

We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard.

I'd advise against this. I've seen too many chipboard kitchen floors
that
have to be replaced through water spillage and subsequent swelling.

I'd fix the existing floorboards. It's unlikely they are all scrap.
You
might find decent secondhand ones at a reclaim yard that are exactly
the
same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable -
they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is
near
impossible.


Replacing a dozen floorboards is cheaper and less work than reflooring
the lot in chip. And boards are vastly superior to chip. I dont call it
****board for nothing.


If you want the boards to look good, first wash them well. Mop and
bucket, water, weashing powder, and a few drops of bleach. Wet, wait 2
minutes, wash, and repeat this several times. Expect 1-2 hrs of
mopping, just keep on at it over and over until it looks good.

Second deal with the gaps. Lift and renail is easier than filling.

Third, varnish with floor grade varnish. Never use tinted varnish, ever
ever ever.

You now have a _good_ quality floor, nothing like ****board. It looks
good, feels good, has a great finish, and will last centuries. Chip
fails on all those points.


NT

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:

We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard.

I'd advise against this. I've seen too many chipboard kitchen floors
that
have to be replaced through water spillage and subsequent swelling.

I'd fix the existing floorboards. It's unlikely they are all scrap.
You
might find decent secondhand ones at a reclaim yard that are exactly
the
same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable -
they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is
near
impossible.


Replacing a dozen floorboards is cheaper and less work than reflooring
the lot in chip. And boards are vastly superior to chip. I dont call it
****board for nothing.


If you want the boards to look good, first wash them well. Mop and
bucket, water, weashing powder, and a few drops of bleach. Wet, wait 2
minutes, wash, and repeat this several times. Expect 1-2 hrs of
mopping, just keep on at it over and over until it looks good.

Second deal with the gaps. Lift and renail is easier than filling.

Third, varnish with floor grade varnish. Never use tinted varnish, ever
ever ever.

You now have a _good_ quality floor, nothing like ****board. It looks
good, feels good, has a great finish, and will last centuries. Chip
fails on all those points.


NT

Oh, flooring thickness... I saw 1/4" ply used once. It bent badly
underfoot Ply is much superior to chip, but is equally more
expensive.

"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating. The joists are spaced at 40cm,
from middle to middle
so according to readers digest 18mm Chippy would be fine.

http://www.readersdigest.co.uk/diy/webpages/274_275.htm

I am wondering if 22mm would be better as I will have less packing out
to do, to bring the floor to the same level as the hall as the current
floorboards are around 25mm thick. Or should I stick to 18mm and use
something to pack it up to the height of hall?
.....
Then I can put a layer of ply down and tile. Actually this will add
height, so should I worry too much about making the chipboard floor
match the hall floor height? ...

If you use chipboard, there ought to be no need for the layer of ply and the
tiles ought to add just enough height for 22mm to be the right choice.
However, make sure you buy the water resistant grade, which has a green
colour.

Colin Bignell

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating.

I'd advise against this. I've seen too many chipboard kitchen floors
that have to be replaced through water spillage and subsequent
swelling.

I'd fix the existing floorboards. It's unlikely they are all scrap.
You might find decent secondhand ones at a reclaim yard that are
exactly the same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable -
they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is
near impossible.

If he's tiling the floor afterwards then access to under the floor will be
difficult anyway. I've often wondered what people do about that....

David

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:

"inNeedofHelp" wrote in message
om...

Hi,
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating. The joists are spaced at 40cm,
from middle to middle
so according to readers digest 18mm Chippy would be fine.

http://www.readersdigest.co.uk/diy/webpages/274_275.htm

I am wondering if 22mm would be better as I will have less packing out
to do, to bring the floor to the same level as the hall as the current
floorboards are around 25mm thick. Or should I stick to 18mm and use
something to pack it up to the height of hall?

....

Then I can put a layer of ply down and tile. Actually this will add
height, so should I worry too much about making the chipboard floor
match the hall floor height? ...


If you use chipboard, there ought to be no need for the layer of ply and the
tiles ought to add just enough height for 22mm to be the right choice.
However, make sure you buy the water resistant grade, which has a green
colour.

Even that swells alarmingly if it gets permentently wet.

The good news is that it goes back when it dries, and seems reasonable
strong afterwards


Colin Bignell

David Hearn wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:

We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating.

I'd advise against this. I've seen too many chipboard kitchen floors
that have to be replaced through water spillage and subsequent
swelling.

I'd fix the existing floorboards. It's unlikely they are all scrap.
You might find decent secondhand ones at a reclaim yard that are
exactly the same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable -
they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is
near impossible.


If he's tiling the floor afterwards then access to under the floor will be
difficult anyway. I've often wondered what people do about that....

Ive seen boards a tile width across screwe with cup washer/screws to the
floor with pipes underneath


My attidutde these days is that taking up a floor or ripping out a
section of a studwall is less hassle than an ugly inspection hatch anyway.


David

"David Hearn" wrote in message ...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
inNeedofHelp wrote:
We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with
chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years
and lifted for electrics and heating.

....
the same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable -
they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is
near impossible.

If he's tiling the floor afterwards then access to under the floor will be
difficult anyway. I've often wondered what people do about that....

David

A whole range of replies. Thanks guys.

I have read in numerous places not to tile onto chipboard. Not sure of
exactly why, but I did think if I ever wanted to lift the tiles at
least if it is overboarded with ply I don't have to replace whole
floor again!

Also access, yip T & G chip is going to be a nightmare if you need
access, but then as some one pointed out the floor will be tiled so no
matter what, tiles are going to have to come up anyway so acess will
be a nightmare full stop. I will however leave a wee hatch under
washing machine for drain valve acess to the CH.

I am deffo not sticking with the floorboards, they really are terrible
and all bowed, so I think it will be :-
Re - Floor with 22mm T & G (waterproof green version) Screwed down
Overboard with 12mm Ply (nailed)
then Tile.
Also will try and sort out where washing machine will be.

And hopefully job a good un.

Thanks guys

Now just to order and get the damn stuff up to the first floor!