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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Tim Smith wrote: I was just doing some testing on my existing thermostat as I dont believe it is working quite right anyway. It is an old(ish) Honeywell T40 electro-mechanical type. It has 3 connections. Terminal 1. Red Terminal 2. Blue Terminal 3. Yellow The Red appears to be live (approximately 196V measured against terminal 3 on alternating voltage scale on the voltmeter). Yup. That will be the line in. The Blue appears to be either 1.5V or 3V (also measured against Termianl 2) depending whether the thermostat is turned right down or right up That's likely to be a neutral - needed for the accelerator coil in a mechanical stat. The yellow will be the switch return to the pump. It should vary from near 0 to mains depending on whether the thermostat is satisfied or not. Does this sound right ? I was expecting that the switched live would either be 0V or live. I have had problems with the heating being on but never really reaching the desired level (although I assume that these old mechanical types are reasonably inaccurate). They're not terribly accurate in terms of operating at the temp on their scale, but should be reasonably consistent. And of course any thermostat can only measure the local temperature. Where you sit in the room may well be colder. Modern programmable electronic types are battery operated so don't need the neutral. The reason for this is they require continuous volts for their clock and electronics, and of course the live feed to a thermostat gets switched off if you switch off the system. Suppose they could have used a re-chargeable, but in practice the battery is cheap and has a long life. -- *Dancing is a perpendicular expression of a horizontal desire * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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