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Entry level power tools
Exiting times...I am looking to purchase my first ever power tool!
I am thinking of replacing all the doors on my kitchen units. This will mean drilling and fitting a lot of door handles (the exisiting units open using an edge flange). Can anyone recommend an el cheapo mains-powered drill from one of the sheds. Suitable for light home DIY use, just wood drilling and the occasional wall plug into breezeblock. Thanks Bruce |
wrote in message
oups.com... Exiting times...I am looking to purchase my first ever power tool! I am thinking of replacing all the doors on my kitchen units. This will mean drilling and fitting a lot of door handles (the exisiting units open using an edge flange). Can anyone recommend an el cheapo mains-powered drill from one of the sheds. Suitable for light home DIY use, just wood drilling and the occasional wall plug into breezeblock. Thanks Bruce If this will be your first use of power tools, DO Practice on some scrap material first - they are different to that old Stanley hand drill! -- M Stewart Milton Keynes, UK http://www.megalith.freeserve.co.uk/oddimage.htm |
Can anyone recommend an el cheapo mains-powered drill from one of the
sheds. Suitable for light home DIY use, just wood drilling and the occasional wall plug into breezeblock. Any non-SDS mains hammer power drill will suffice for those tasks. Additional features you may find useful for other tasks: 1. Reverse 2. Twin speed (gears) 3. Variable speed (touch sensitive control) 4. Torque control 5. Rotor brake (stops instantly you let go of trigger) Christian. |
wrote in message oups.com... Exiting times...I am looking to purchase my first ever power tool! I am thinking of replacing all the doors on my kitchen units. This will mean drilling and fitting a lot of door handles (the exisiting units open using an edge flange). Can anyone recommend an el cheapo mains-powered drill from one of the sheds. Suitable for light home DIY use, just wood drilling and the occasional wall plug into breezeblock. Wickes sell a 700w variable speed hammer drill for around £16 the last time I looked. The variable speed means you can use it for driving screws, with a bit of practice. Just the job. Most of the sheds sell plastic cases of drills and drivers for around £10-15 _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
"Christian McArdle" wrote in message et... Can anyone recommend an el cheapo mains-powered drill from one of the sheds. Suitable for light home DIY use, just wood drilling and the occasional wall plug into breezeblock. Any non-SDS mains hammer power drill will suffice for those tasks. Additional features you may find useful for other tasks: 1. Reverse 2. Twin speed (gears) 3. Variable speed (touch sensitive control) 4. Torque control 5. Rotor brake (stops instantly you let go of trigger) Christian. Few mains drills have torque control. One Bosch does and it is not cheap. Better to buy a cheap 700w mains drill and a cheap drill/driver if torque is needed. A cheapo mains drill with a variable speed is fine for driving. Best pulse the trigger with your finger so as not to spin too much and ruin the crew head. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
Wickes sell a 700w variable speed hammer drill for around =A316 the last time I looked. The variable speed means you can use it for driving screws, with a bit of practice. Just the job. Most of the sheds sell plastic cases of drills and drivers for around =A310-15 That sounds the basic model I need. I'll have a look round the sheds for 700W mains hammer drills. Trouble is there are so many types of power tool nowadays ... I see you can even buy a little hand "mouse" sander. The sanding block + sandpaper is now redundant! Soon we'll have robots to do all our DIY. Bruce |
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Mains powered tools are a god send if you are doing some heavy duty DIYing (eg drilling into brick) but you can't beat a cordless for its "just pick up and use" ability. Even a cheap cordless will drill 30+ small holes* through 10mm sheets of wood on a single charge. As for drilling into breeze block you don't need hammer action for that as it's so soft I think a 700W mains drill will be so heavy, it would actually be easier to use a brace and bit just for chipboard. Cordless sounds a lot better. john |
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"John" wrote in message ... Mains powered tools are a god send if you are doing some heavy duty DIYing (eg drilling into brick) but you can't beat a cordless for its "just pick up and use" ability. Even a cheap cordless will drill 30+ small holes* through 10mm sheets of wood on a single charge. As for drilling into breeze block you don't need hammer action for that as it's so soft I think a 700W mains drill will be so heavy, it would actually be easier to use a brace and bit just for chipboard. Cordless sounds a lot better. The current 700w drills and small and not heavy. They will outlast any battery drill, far more power and the batteries don't eventually go duff. For occasional stuff around the house it is the only drill to buy. V cheap and does the job. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
doozer wrote:
I admit that some of the PPPro tools don't seem to be very well built and they are certainly not in the same league as Matika and De Walt, for example, but you get what you pay for. There is little point in paying £100 (or more) buying a top of the range professional drill if all you are ever going to do is hang pictures and attach door handles. There is Quite agree. I think your example of the sander is also worth noting because it does highlight that with any "brand" of tool, there is going to be good and not so good models. If you always shop on low price as a primary purchasing criteria, then you need to be prepared to invest more time finding the better ones. In this case I think the OP would be well served with a mid range cordless drill driver. unfortunately, I believe, a lot of snob value placed in certain brand names. I often find its the folks who buy a whole shed full of tools but then never use them, to be the worst offenders! Many of the top end tool makers do not even figure on some tool junkies radar, since they are not so readily available in the DIY shops. If you are going to brag about whatever you just bought there is little point in getting a festool, trend, metabo etc since most folks will just say "huh?" -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
wrote:
Isn't the weight of a cordless + battery nearly equal to weight of corded drill, anyway? A combi cordless can easily be as heavy, although they are often much better balanced for single handed use, the coredless drill/driver versions tend to be smaller and lighter. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
tony sayer wrote:
snip Avoid the PPro cheap ones from B&Q their absolute crap squared. If I were you I'd fork out a bit more and get a better one such as a Bosch well worth the extra. I've decided not to by cheap power tools again after some bad experiences, waste of money and resources.... I admit that some of the PPPro tools don't seem to be very well built and they are certainly not in the same league as Matika and De Walt, for example, but you get what you pay for. There is little point in paying £100 (or more) buying a top of the range professional drill if all you are ever going to do is hang pictures and attach door handles. There is unfortunately, I believe, a lot of snob value placed in certain brand names. FWIW I own a PPPro orbital sander. It was about half the price of the average DIY brand names (Bosch, B+D etc) and a third or less the cost of the professional names. As it was so cheap I bought it expecting it to only last for the duration of the one (quite large) job I needed it for so I pushed it as hard as I could. Amazing it's still in tip top condition and I suspect it will last for many years more. Graham |
wrote in message oups.com... Exiting times...I am looking to purchase my first ever power tool! I am thinking of replacing all the doors on my kitchen units. This will mean drilling and fitting a lot of door handles (the exisiting units open using an edge flange). Can anyone recommend an el cheapo mains-powered drill from one of the sheds. Suitable for light home DIY use, just wood drilling and the occasional wall plug into breezeblock. Just got a Worx 710W corded drill from Homebase reduced to £14.99. Can't fault it at the price, however for driving screws into kitchen cabinets essential to have torque control, not normally available on corded drills. Normal advice is to get a corded drill first but consider a cordless drill driver. A good cheap cordless, 14.4V say, will do all your kitchen cabinet work, less or no good into masonry. Suggest you go for two quick charge batteries as this is the weakest part of any cheapo. I'm sure I have seen a Bosch corded/cordless combo on offer in B&Q recently. Ideal for someone purchasing their first power tools. Jim A |
Avoid the PPro cheap ones from B&Q their absolute crap squared. If I were you I'd fork out a bit more and get a better one such as a Bosch well worth the extra. I've decided not to by cheap power tools again after some bad experiences, waste of money and resources.... -- I've just seen some PPro corded drill packages in B&Q. Including cheapo tools such as hacksaw, saw, pliers, spirit level etc. Reduced from =A330 to =A320. A bargain, but the only problem is, the drills are quite heavy (2.2kg), as an earlier poster noted. They also have PPro cordless at =A330. Isn't the weight of a cordless + battery nearly equal to weight of corded drill, anyway? Bruce |
The Worx sounds similar to the B&Q PPro range.
I don't need a screwdriving facility, really -- I just need to drill holes in kitchen cabinet doors prior to fitting handles etc. Or in breezeblock for hanging pictures and shelving. Or through tiles, maybe. Bruce |
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A mid range battery drill driver sounds like it would be better suited. More than enough power for the job (even a 9V model will sink 2" 10 guage screws straight into softwood without a pilot hole). A 12V or 14.4V one will cope with most other jobs unless you want to turn things like hole saws etc. (don't get too carried away with the numbers though, a good quality 12V drill will perform as well or better than a nasty 18V one). Thanks, John. I'm starting to think of the possible jobs I may need a drill/driver for sometime in the future...when I get round to it. For the sake of argument, lets say I want to drill through a breezeblock internal wall ( to spur off an electrical socket in an adjacent room). Would this job wreck a 12V cordless drill? I reckon I would need a corded drill for such a job. Or, better still, get an electrician in! Bruce |
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"doozer" wrote in message ... wrote: Avoid the PPro cheap ones from B&Q There is Performace Power (grey) and Performance Power Pro (blue). Two very different ranges. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
wrote:
Thanks, John. I'm starting to think of the possible jobs I may need a drill/driver for sometime in the future...when I get round to it. For the sake of argument, lets say I want to drill through a breezeblock internal wall ( to spur off an electrical socket in an adjacent room). Depends a bit on what you mean by breezeblock - that covers everything from the soft insulating blocks and cinder blocks which you can drill easily without hammer action (in fact you can drill with a srewdriver!), to hard hollow concrete blocks where you will need hammer action. None of them are that hard to drill - in the sense that a conventional hammer drill (mains or battery) will hack it without needing a SDS drill. If you want to chase out a channel in a wall and sink a backbox however you need a SDS with chisel mode. Would this job wreck a 12V cordless drill? I reckon I would need a corded drill for such a job. Or, better still, get an electrician in! A mid range 12V drill would handle it with no difficulty. A top end one would do it 100 times on a single charge. If you have doubts, then considder a mid range cordless drill backed up by a shed special hammer for the odd occations you want more prolonged drilling or hammer. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
wrote:
Mains has the advantages over battery: much cheaper yup much more power Not always, a good 18V cordless will develop the same sort of power as a small mains drill. Power however in many cases is a bit like oxygen, you only need "enough" for the task. much more speed True of the smaller cordless drills, but decent cordless drills will often run around 1500 rpm. A Mains SDS will normally do upto 1100, a conventional gearbox mains drill will max out at 2500 - 3000. For most materials 1500 is more than adequate. The exception is when hammer drilling in which case the extra speed of the mains drill gets more blows per min, which makes better use fo the (feeble) hammer action. much longer tool life expectancy Not convinced... the batteries will need replacing from time to time, but the drill should last equally well. But the downside is that for scrweing, they work, in fact they work better, but are crude to handle, with poor speed control, no instant stop and no torque control. You seem to demolish the "work better" claim by explaining all the reasons they are not so good for screwing. If I were buying just one tool, it would definitely be a mains drill with speed control. Depends on what you are doing I suppose. If I were putting up shelves then yes, if I were refitting a kitchen then I would rather have the cordless. And dont buy B&D drill bits. agreed! (or any 120 drill bits for only 10 quid offers you see) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
wrote in message oups.com... wrote: Thanks, John. I'm starting to think of the possible jobs I may need a drill/driver for sometime in the future...when I get round to it. For the sake of argument, lets say I want to drill through a breezeblock internal wall ( to spur off an electrical socket in an adjacent room). Would this job wreck a 12V cordless drill? I reckon I would need a corded drill for such a job. Or, better still, get an electrician in! Bruce you could do that with anything, even a kitchen knife. Mains has the advantages over battery: much cheaper much more power much more speed much longer tool life expectancy But the downside is that for scrweing, they work, in fact they work better, but are crude to handle, with poor speed control, no instant stop and no torque control. If I were buying just one tool, it would definitely be a mains drill with speed control. And dont buy B&D drill bits. Its scarey to say this, but IMM got it about right, for the 3rd time in his life. It is plain you can't count. I get everything right all of the time. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
John Rumm wrote:
wrote: Mains has the advantages over battery: much cheaper yup much more power Not always, a good 18V cordless will develop the same sort of power as a small mains drill. Pound for pound the mains drill wins hands down yes the biggest cordlesses can outperform the smallest mains Usenet, the home of pedantry. Power however in many cases is a bit like oxygen, you only need "enough" for the task. I think you need enough for every task youll ever do with it. Codlesses are often inadequate, especially the cheaper ones. much more speed True of the smaller cordless drills, but decent cordless drills will often run around 1500 rpm. A Mains SDS will normally do upto 1100, a conventional gearbox mains drill will max out at 2500 - 3000. For most materials 1500 is more than adequate. The exception is when hammer drilling in which case the extra speed of the mains drill gets more blows per min, which makes better use fo the (feeble) hammer action. so pound for pound much more speed. much longer tool life expectancy Not convinced... the batteries will need replacing from time to time, but the drill should last equally well. precisely, the batteries go. I've used too much rechargeable based kit in the past to want to go back to it when not necessary. But the downside is that for scrweing, they work, in fact they work better, but are crude to handle, with poor speed control, no instant stop and no torque control. You seem to demolish the "work better" claim by explaining all the reasons they are not so good for screwing. no, pointing out they do have downsides, and that all in all the cheap mains drill is a much better tool than a cheap codless. If I were buying just one tool, it would definitely be a mains drill with speed control. Depends on what you are doing I suppose. If I were putting up shelves then yes, if I were refitting a kitchen then I would rather have the cordless. And dont buy B&D drill bits. agreed! (or any 120 drill bits for only 10 quid offers you see) I always thought of B&D kit as adequate, if not great, but buying a megapack of their drill bits really lifted that illusion from my eyes. A =A31 set of bits from teh cheapshop left them for dust. A bit that cant even make a hole in soft pine is a joke. Codlessness is something you pay extra for and compromise for: only go codless if you specifically need codlessness. NT |
wrote in message oups.com... Codlessness is something you pay extra for and compromise for: only go codless if you specifically need codlessness. I couldn't agree more. In fact mains drill/driver is what most people need as they rarely use the drills. Only pro, or very serious DIYers need cordless. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
Doctor Evil wrote:
Codlessness is something you pay extra for and compromise for: only go codless if you specifically need codlessness. I couldn't agree more. In fact mains drill/driver is what most people need as they rarely use the drills. Only pro, or very serious DIYers need cordless. So DIYers will never need to drive (and remove) screws in number then? -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
wrote:
John Rumm wrote: wrote: Mains has the advantages over battery: much cheaper yup Pound for pound the mains drill wins hands down yes the biggest cordlesses can outperform the smallest mains Usenet, the home of pedantry. Sorry had not realised you were going at this just from the bang for buck angle. I was only saying that on a (reasonable) coredless lack of power is not usually an issue. I think you need enough for every task youll ever do with it. Codlesses are often inadequate, especially the cheaper ones. Agreed. I was not advocating he purchase the cheapest though. In reality the sensible thing to do is buy both: a mid range cordless, and a cheap mains drill. so pound for pound much more speed. But then so what? What does it do for you in most cases? Make screwdriving harder, and increase the chances of burning out a drill bit in steel. It makes naff all difference with wood. Hard masonry is the only place it helps on a conventional hammer drill. But the OP was not talking about drilling masonry big time. If he was I would suggest skipping the conventional mains drill and go SDS instead. precisely, the batteries go. I've used too much rechargeable based kit in the past to want to go back to it when not necessary. I can understand the feeling, there are times I have felt the same... however I have found it depends greatly on the quality of the rechargable kit. A couple of examples: Someone bought me a rechargable jigsaw from B&Q once. It is so lame that I can't ever visualise a time where I would use it out of choice. Even a 10 quid shed special mains jigsaw would trounce it in every respect. Someone also bought me a green Bosch mains drill - for a time it was my only drill other than a 9V combi, they both got used in equal measure since there were plenty of jobs the cordless was not up to, although for screwdriving it was vastly superior. However I now almost never reach for the Bosch in preference to my 18V Makita combi - there is nothing that it does better. (If the cordless will not hack hard masonry then its time for the SDS anyway, since that is something the Bosch is useless at). no, pointing out they do have downsides, and that all in all the cheap mains drill is a much better tool than a cheap codless. If you are limiting yourself to cheap then I quite agree. You can't do rechargable cells of any useful quality "cheap". I always thought of B&D kit as adequate, if not great, but buying a megapack of their drill bits really lifted that illusion from my eyes. A £1 set of bits from teh cheapshop left them for dust. A bit that cant even make a hole in soft pine is a joke. Perhaps when they said "wood drill bits" that is what they ment they were actually made from! -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Doctor Evil wrote: Codlessness is something you pay extra for and compromise for: only go codless if you specifically need codlessness. I couldn't agree more. In fact mains drill/driver is what most people need as they rarely use the drills. Only pro, or very serious DIYers need cordless. So DIYers will never need to drive (and remove) screws in number then? Read again what I wrote. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
In article ,
"Doctor Evil" writes: Wickes sell a 700w variable speed hammer drill for around £16 the last time I looked. The variable speed means you can use it for driving screws, with a bit of practice. Just the job. Most of the sheds sell plastic cases of Cheap variable speed drills don't have the necessary torque or fine control required for driving screws at low speed -- their output power is very low at such speeds. However, the variable speed is useful for starting a hole off slowly to ensure the bit doesn't move before it starts biting into the surface. For this purpose, I found the power controller in an older B&D drill much better than the one in a newer Bosch -- the B&D can be started from almost zero, whereas the Bosch has a nasty hysteresis which means the motor won't start until you get the trigger to about 1/4 travel and you can then back off to lower speed (a characteristic of a very cheap light dimmer circuit). You can get variable speed drills which deliver much nearer full output power at low speeds and are good for screw driving, but you're looking at a much higher price -- the power controller will include servo feedback, thermal monitoring and power input control right up to and including top speed operation, and is a lot more sophistcated than the crude light dimmer type found in cheap drills. drills and drivers for around £10-15 -- Andrew Gabriel |
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , "Doctor Evil" writes: Wickes sell a 700w variable speed hammer drill for around £16 the last time I looked. The variable speed means you can use it for driving screws, with a bit of practice. Just the job. Most of the sheds sell plastic cases of Cheap variable speed drills don't have the necessary torque or fine control required for driving screws at low speed -- their output power is very low at such speeds. However, the variable speed is useful for starting a hole off slowly to ensure the bit doesn't move before it starts biting into the surface. For this purpose, I found the power controller in an older B&D drill much better than the one in a newer Bosch -- the B&D can be started from almost zero, whereas the Bosch has a nasty hysteresis which means the motor won't start until you get the trigger to about 1/4 travel and you can then back off to lower speed (a characteristic of a very cheap light dimmer circuit). You can get variable speed drills which deliver much nearer full output power at low speeds and are good for screw driving, but you're looking at a much higher price -- the power controller will include servo feedback, thermal monitoring and power input control right up to and including top speed operation, and is a lot more sophistcated than the crude light dimmer type found in cheap drills. Most of these cheap mains drills have a trigger stop to prevent too much speed. I find that using this and pulsing the trigger with your finger does the job. I little practice and most can get it. If you are in an office which is being refurbished and there are about 10 guys with drill/drivers, you hear the constant pulsing of the triggers, zip, zip, zip. It is a technique they nearly all use even with over expensive pro battery tools. Most doesn't use the torque control leaving it on full using their fingers to pulse. They know how much to pulse to get the screw in; all by experience of using the tools on a day to day basis. Most DIYers put the bit in the screw and pull the trigger full, and then can't understand why the bit spun out of the screw and chewed it up. _________________________________________ Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server More than 120,000 groups Unlimited download http://www.usenetzone.com to open account |
Doctor Evil wrote:
So DIYers will never need to drive (and remove) screws in number then? Read again what I wrote. If what you had wrote had made any sense in the first place then I would not be posting for clarification. Since it did not hence the question. Suggesting I "read again what I wrote" is "bits a waste of" Yoda. A cheap mains drill (even with variable speed) is not a good tool for screwdriving, ergo if that is something you want to do (and I am confident that for many DIYers it is) your recommendation to buy a mains drill in exclusion of any other, seems short sighted. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Most doesn't use the torque control leaving it on full using their fingers
to pulse. I use the torque control when doing large numbers of easy screws, such as screwing down a floor, or screwing plasterboard. Otherwise, it is easier to just pulse, as you say. I find the mains drill is good for driving overlarge screws into undersized pilot holes, but has some serious disadvantages. The main one is that with neither a rotor brake nor torque control, and with a large amount of spinning mass, when the screw bottoms out, the drill really wants to continue spinning, particularly if the drill was used overfast. This often overtorques the screw, burying it into the wood/plasterboard, or chews up the screw head. Christian. |
Doctor Evil wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... Codlessness is something you pay extra for and compromise for: only go codless if you specifically need codlessness. I couldn't agree more. I'm scared. NT |
On 1 Mar 2005 01:07:24 -0800, wrote:
I am thinking of replacing all the doors on my kitchen units. This will mean drilling and fitting a lot of door handles (the exisiting units open using an edge flange). Nothing to do with your question about power tools, but you'll find that if you make a little jig to help, you can get all the handles in the same position very easily. This needs to be nothing more than a square of scrap wood with two (marked with a pen) straight sides that you align with two sides of your doors, and a hole in it. -- On-line canal route planner: http://www.canalplan.org.uk (Waterways World site of the month, April 2001) |
Christian McArdle wrote: Most doesn't use the torque control leaving it on full using their fingers to pulse. I use the torque control when doing large numbers of easy screws, such as screwing down a floor, or screwing plasterboard. Otherwise, it is easier to just pulse, as you say. I find the mains drill is good for driving overlarge screws into undersized pilot holes, but has some serious disadvantages. The main one is that with neither a rotor brake nor torque control, and with a large amount of spinning mass, when the screw bottoms out, the drill really wants to continue spinning, particularly if the drill was used overfast. This often overtorques the screw, burying it into the wood/plasterboard, or chews up the screw head. Hmm, not sure I ever spin the drill so fast that it continues spinning the screw into the subject ! I use 2 drills, cheapo hammer (with quick release chuck) for drilling, but I always use my SDS drill for driving screws with an sds to hex bit adaptor. It's a bit heavy, but the trigger control is much more sensitive, letting you back off as the head nears full tightness. I've rarely overtightened or chewed the head on anything, even on drywall. Cheers, Paul. |
Hmm, not sure I ever spin the drill so fast that it continues spinning
the screw into the subject ! It probably depends on the drill. My mains one has so much rotor mass that it will continue to turn after bottom out even at very low speeds. It has very slow spin down too, so letting go of the trigger may still make 8 or 9 complete turns of the rotor even under the load of a wood screw at moderate speed. Christian. |
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