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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I bought some this morning from Travis Perkins, allegedly for 2" wide
joists, which is what I asked for (the receipt says they are 50mm). However the actual gap into which the joist fits is only 42mm, which means I'd have to trim 8mm off the joist width for them to fit. This is my first time using joist hangers (these are timber- masonry) so forgive the ignorance; but have I been given the wrong size (which I suspect) or am I supposed to reduce the joists to fit (which sounds bizarre)? I'd rather make a fool of myself asking the question here (where the regulars are rather more forgiving of muppets) than back in TP... Thanks David |
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#3
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I bought some this morning from Travis Perkins, allegedly for 2" wide
joists, which is what I asked for (the receipt says they are 50mm). However the actual gap into which the joist fits is only 42mm, which means I'd have to trim 8mm off the joist width for them to fit. This is my first time using joist hangers (these are timber- masonry) so forgive the ignorance; but have I been given the wrong size (which I suspect) or am I supposed to reduce the joists to fit (which sounds bizarre)? I'd rather make a fool of myself asking the question here (where the regulars are rather more forgiving of muppets) than back in TP... They're the wrong size - you shouldn't have to trim the joists at all. I've used these ones in the past: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...95710&ts=80393 and 2" fits fine with 1 or 2 mm to spare. Andy |
#4
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My joists are a genuine 2" wide, and the hangers I got from Wickes
were also 2". The ones you have are for nominal 2" planed timber, which is of course smaller. Genuine question - why would you use planed timber for joists?? Andy |
#5
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![]() "Pecanfan" wrote in message ... My joists are a genuine 2" wide, and the hangers I got from Wickes were also 2". The ones you have are for nominal 2" planed timber, which is of course smaller. Genuine question - why would you use planed timber for joists?? If the joists are exposed in the room below? |
#6
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mrcheerful . wrote:
"Pecanfan" wrote in message ... My joists are a genuine 2" wide, and the hangers I got from Wickes were also 2". The ones you have are for nominal 2" planed timber, which is of course smaller. Genuine question - why would you use planed timber for joists?? If the joists are exposed in the room below? If they were, that implies the grotty galvanised joist hanger would be exposed too! But similarly, when would you ever want joists thinner than 2" anyway? Anyway - thanks for all the replies: I'm now convinced enough that they are wrongly sized for me to march back into Travis Perkins tomorrow with head held high! David |
#7
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In article , Pecanfan wrote:
Genuine question - why would you use planed timber for joists?? They could be designed for the S4S stuff as sold in Wickes. -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm |
#8
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Lobster wrote in message ...
I bought some this morning from Travis Perkins, allegedly for 2" wide joists, which is what I asked for (the receipt says they are 50mm). However the actual gap into which the joist fits is only 42mm, which means I'd have to trim 8mm off the joist width for them to fit. Beware there are 2 types of joist hanger, one is made from quite flimsy galv strip steel, the other from welded plate. You want the last for *real* joist hanging ie to butt a joist against a wall instead of inserting it into the wall. I've never been completely clear as to what the flimsy ones are for - maybe steadying butt joints between timber perhaps? Anyone any ideas? Also most nominal 2in rough cut joists are not 50mm as you might expect, but 47mm. |
#9
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In article ,
Jim_in_sussex wrote: I've never been completely clear as to what the flimsy ones are for - maybe steadying butt joints between timber perhaps? Anyone any ideas? Timber to timber joints. -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm |
#11
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In article ,
jim_in_sussex writes Lobster wrote in message news:innQd.195$a33.10 ... I bought some this morning from Travis Perkins, allegedly for 2" wide joists, which is what I asked for (the receipt says they are 50mm). However the actual gap into which the joist fits is only 42mm, which means I'd have to trim 8mm off the joist width for them to fit. Beware there are 2 types of joist hanger, one is made from quite flimsy galv strip steel, the other from welded plate. You want the last for *real* joist hanging ie to butt a joist against a wall instead of inserting it into the wall. I've never been completely clear as to what the flimsy ones are for - maybe steadying butt joints between timber perhaps? Anyone any ideas? Also most nominal 2in rough cut joists are not 50mm as you might expect, but 47mm. Its not a question of there being two types, there are different types of hangar to suit different applications, if you look at the strongtie site you will see many different types to suit different applications, generally the heavier duty ones are for masonry fixing, the lighter duty for timber fixing and don't forget to notch the end of the joist if you are fixing plasterboard so that it fits flush. -- David |
#12
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#13
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Lobster wrote:
I bought some this morning from Travis Perkins, allegedly for 2" wide joists, which is what I asked for (the receipt says they are 50mm). However the actual gap into which the joist fits is only 42mm, which means I'd have to trim 8mm off the joist width for them to fit. This is my first time using joist hangers (these are timber- masonry) so forgive the ignorance; but have I been given the wrong size (which I suspect) or am I supposed to reduce the joists to fit (which sounds bizarre)? I'd rather make a fool of myself asking the question here (where the regulars are rather more forgiving of muppets) than back in TP... Thanks for all the replies - duly went back to TP today with the offending items "Oh, sorry mate, must have been in the wrong box" and now have a set of hangers which fit perfectly . I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants [....] I must learn to be more assertive when dealing with builders merchants David |
#14
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In article , Mark
writes . typed: snip timber fixing and don't forget to notch the end of the joist if you are fixing plasterboard so that it fits flush. HaHa you didn't see diy sos tonight, their solution was to knock F**K out of the bottom lip of the hanger the BBC has always done the best Comedy programs :-) -- Mark I did see it, made me grin, room looked all right afterwards, I have doubts about the timing of these programs as a lot of what they do needs to dry before they can do much else -- David |
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