Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
 

Hi

I'd like to replace the only remaining none DG window in our extension
with a UPVC window, the question is what should I measure? Width wise
I've measured from brick to brick but I'm worried about the top of the
window when it comes to measuring the height. The bricks sit on a
thin layer of mortar on top of the RSJ, the lip of which is set back
from the brick face, i.e.

| Brick
|________
| ------Mortar
=======
^
|
Lintel

Should I measure from the bottom of the cill to the bottom of the
lintel and make up the gap with silicone filler (which doesn't sound
aethetically appealing), or should I measure to the brick and "shape"
the frame so that it sits flush with the brick? The distance between
the brick and the bottom of the lintel is 7mm which is quite a thick
bead of silicone.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Ross

Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
RossG wrote:

Hi

I'd like to replace the only remaining none DG window in our extension
with a UPVC window, the question is what should I measure? Width wise
I've measured from brick to brick but I'm worried about the top of the
window when it comes to measuring the height. The bricks sit on a
thin layer of mortar on top of the RSJ, the lip of which is set back
from the brick face, i.e.

| Brick
|________
| ------Mortar
=======
^
|
Lintel

Should I measure from the bottom of the cill to the bottom of the
lintel and make up the gap with silicone filler (which doesn't sound
aethetically appealing), or should I measure to the brick and "shape"
the frame so that it sits flush with the brick? The distance between
the brick and the bottom of the lintel is 7mm which is quite a thick
bead of silicone.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Ross

Well, the frame has to go *under* the lintel - there's no two ways about
that. You can't start chopping bits off the frame so that some goes under
and some doesn't.

If you don't want to fill the gap between the frame and the brickwork with
silicone, there are a couple of other possibilities. If you rake out some of
the existing mortar, you may be able to re-point it, with some new mortar
which extends from the top of the frame to the underside of the brickwork.
Alternatively, you may be able to stick a length of uPVC beading along the
top of the frame to cover the gap.

When ordering the window, make it a few mm less the the actual aperture in
both width and height - plus a bit more if the angles of the aperture are
out of square - otherwise, you'll never get it in!

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
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Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
 

"Set Square" wrote in message


When ordering the window, make it a few mm less the the actual aperture in
both width and height - plus a bit more if the angles of the aperture are
out of square - otherwise, you'll never get it in!

If you can see that the brickwork is excellent, plumb and level, get it
made to measure otherwise allow a quarter of an inch height and width,
to allow for scew. Tell the maker what you have done.

If it goes pear shaped it is down to you. If they measure it, it is down
to them. You can plane some off a plastic window. Not like you can with
a wooden one though.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
 

"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message

When ordering the window, make it a few mm less the the actual aperture in
both width and height - plus a bit more if the angles of the aperture are
out of square - otherwise, you'll never get it in!

If you can see that the brickwork is excellent, plumb and level, get it
made to measure otherwise allow a quarter of an inch height and width,
to allow for scew. Tell the maker what you have done.

I thought I'd just ask a local none chain glazer to come round and
measure so I could compare the cost of DIY and not DIY. He took one
look at it and said it's a 1050 by 600 so the extension must have
been built with standard sizes in mind. After he left I re-measured
the existing wooden frame and it is actually 1050 by 631* which is
indeed a standard size of casement window sold by the likes of M@gn*t
et al. Why I didn't do this to start off with I don't know?

Out of interest the window will cost approx. 140 and I've had a couple
of quotes to fit ranging from 230 to 260, so I guess they estimate
about 3 to 4 hours work.

Cheers

Ross

* sizes are actually 5mm less but quoted as above - I wonder why?