Having done all the worktop joints for my kitchen, I'm bemused by one
thing. I don't see how the jig can possibly produce a perfect joint,
given that the female mitre will always have a different radius to the
male mitre, due to the width of the cutter.

I'm using the Screwfix jig. Do more expensive jigs have different
templates for the male and female joints that solve this problem? Even
having different internal and external radii on the 45 degree curve
would solve this, but the screwfix jig doesn't bother. I ended up filing
the male mitre a bit to get a better fit.

Ben

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 22:42:08 GMT, Ben Blaukopf
strung together this:

Having done all the worktop joints for my kitchen, I'm bemused by one
thing. I don't see how the jig can possibly produce a perfect joint,
given that the female mitre will always have a different radius to the
male mitre, due to the width of the cutter.

No, you've lost me now. Say it again, slowly, with easy to understand
words.

I'm using the Screwfix jig. Do more expensive jigs have different
templates for the male and female joints that solve this problem? Even
having different internal and external radii on the 45 degree curve
would solve this, but the screwfix jig doesn't bother. I ended up filing
the male mitre a bit to get a better fit.

Sorry, still not there. I use the Screwfix jig and have had nothing
short of perfect jopints every time. I think you've either got a crap
router, or technique, or both.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

I'm with Lurch on this one.
Are you using the correct sized cutter in the correct sized router?.
The only thing I can think is that you are using too small or large
(diameter) cutter or that you are using a 1/4" router instead of a 1/2"
one so that the guide is the wrong size.

Alan.

"Alan" wrote:

I'm with Lurch on this one.
Are you using the correct sized cutter in the correct sized router?.
The only thing I can think is that you are using too small or large
(diameter) cutter or that you are using a 1/4" router instead of a 1/2"
one so that the guide is the wrong size.

What difference should the type of router make? If the cutter and the
guide are the right diameter then surely the router type is
immaterial.

--

Because small (1/4") routers have smaller guides which don't fit the
templates.
I perhaps should have made this clearer.
From memory, they need a 30mm guide.

Alan.

Alan wrote:
Because small (1/4") routers have smaller guides which don't fit the
templates.
I perhaps should have made this clearer.
From memory, they need a 30mm guide.

Hmm,

I made a partial arse of my cuts for my worktop, as I used a different
cutter diameter to the one specified with my jig, and used the collet
supplied with my router.

I was sure this would have been fine as I used the same cutter to cut
both the male and female parts of the joint, so, the radius of the cut
was ok, but the start of the joint was skewed somewhat (it happened
further down the female part of the joint.) but the cut itself was a
good fit, just needed a little relieving with a sharp wood cutting
junior hacksaw blade.

Not ideal, but saved me buying a 1/2" worktop cutter :-)

Cheers

Paul.

"Alan" wrote:

Because small (1/4") routers have smaller guides which don't fit the
templates.
I perhaps should have made this clearer.
From memory, they need a 30mm guide.

It is a 30mm guide thats needed, i'm not wanting to nit pick but
Axminster for instance list 30mm guides as fitting both their 1/4" and
1/2" routers (and the Trend T3 and T5).

The ONLY reason I can think that they quote a 1/2" router being needed
is for the high power to take the cuts, take it steady and 1/4" will
do.



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