From: wanderer )

Each to their own, I guess. I used Weathershield some years ago on my
last place. Stripped back to bare wood, primed, two u/c, and two
gloss
coats - the 'gloss' wasn't, it was more of a sheen, and the whole lot
lasted three years and started flaking off and had to be replaced
with
an oil-based paint that at least lasted for four years before it
needed
a repaint. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff, but in the end you
pays your money and takes your choice.


What would you use? Pliolite? I dont care whether the finish is gloss
or satin, but I do need maximum life and dont mind paying for it. I
once proposed using car spray paint, but was told it wouldnt survive
the movement of the wood. Its for exterior wood windows.


Regards, NT

On 31 May 2004 17:03:24 -0700, N. Thornton wrote:

From: wanderer )

Each to their own, I guess. I used Weathershield some years ago on my
last place. Stripped back to bare wood, primed, two u/c, and two
gloss
coats - the 'gloss' wasn't, it was more of a sheen, and the whole lot
lasted three years and started flaking off and had to be replaced
with
an oil-based paint that at least lasted for four years before it
needed
a repaint. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff, but in the end you
pays your money and takes your choice.

What would you use? Pliolite? I dont care whether the finish is gloss
or satin, but I do need maximum life and dont mind paying for it. I
once proposed using car spray paint, but was told it wouldnt survive
the movement of the wood. Its for exterior wood windows.

Well, personally, I'd stick with an oil-based paint, but as to how long
it lasts rather depends on the aspect of the windows, the care taken
with the painting and preparation and probably most important, the
quality of the timber used in making the windows. IF they're made with
poorly seasoned timber, then it makes little difference how much effort
you put into trying to get a decent and long-lasting finish.

If they're all more or less northerly then you might get 5 or 6 years
before it looks tatty, but if southerly and exposed to plenty of direct
sunlight, it'll probably start to look tatty in about 3 years, and
definitely in need of repainting in 5 years.

As to preparation, I'd definitely use some Rustins Knotting if
necessary, nothing like a bleeding knot after a couple of years to spoil
the finish! Have you got a Crown Decorator Centre near you? Probably be
as good a place as any to ask for advice about the best durability of
paint types.

On 31 May 2004 17:03:24 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote:

I dont care whether the finish is gloss
or satin, but I do need maximum life and dont mind paying for it.

If you *really* don't care about the finish then consider bitumous
floor paint. I used some on a roofing job a while back and had some
left over.

A water-butt lid needed making and the only material I had to
immediate hand was 1/2 inch Stirling board. It had a couple of coats
of the "bitty" paint top and bottom and several coats around the
exposed edges. I was expecting it to delaminate fairly soon but it
stands up to the weather without noticeable deterioration, there's
often water lying on the upper side and when the butt overflows the
underside is in contact with the water. Small amounts of water tend
to bead rather than pool on it. Quite resistant to wear as well.

Quite easy to apply and gave a nice even finish.

Limited range of colours though ...

On 31 May 2004 17:03:24 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote:

What would you use? Pliolite? I dont care whether the finish is gloss
or satin, but I do need maximum life and dont mind paying for it. I
once proposed using car spray paint, but was told it wouldnt survive
the movement of the wood. Its for exterior wood windows.

Hi,

What's the problem with the existing coating, is it flaking off? If so
how about one of the high quality Sadolin variants in white.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote in message . ..

Hi,

What's the problem with the existing coating, is it flaking off? If so
how about one of the high quality Sadolin variants in white.

yup, all falling off. And its exposed, and gets full sun.

Dev Null wrote in message . ..
On 31 May 2004 17:03:24 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote:

I dont care whether the finish is gloss
or satin, but I do need maximum life and dont mind paying for it.

If you *really* don't care about the finish then consider bitumous
floor paint. I used some on a roofing job a while back and had some
left over.

A water-butt lid needed making and the only material I had to
immediate hand was 1/2 inch Stirling board. It had a couple of coats
of the "bitty" paint top and bottom and several coats around the
exposed edges. I was expecting it to delaminate fairly soon but it
stands up to the weather without noticeable deterioration, there's
often water lying on the upper side and when the butt overflows the
underside is in contact with the water. Small amounts of water tend
to bead rather than pool on it. Quite resistant to wear as well.

Quite easy to apply and gave a nice even finish.

Limited range of colours though ...


If it came in white I'd do it. But putting white on top is going to be
more or less impossible. I dont think the place would look good in
black, wouldnt suit it at all. Sounds like theres no magic solution.



Regards, NT

On 1 Jun 2004 12:47:22 -0700, (N. Thornton) wrote:

Pete C wrote in message . ..

Hi,

What's the problem with the existing coating, is it flaking off? If so
how about one of the high quality Sadolin variants in white.

yup, all falling off. And its exposed, and gets full sun.

Another possibility is to prime the wood with epoxy, though if the
wood underneath gets wet, it's a recepie for rot.

cheers,
Pete.