Some advice please
I am about to install an AEG Induction Hob and AEG Built In Double Oven on opposite sides of the room.
I currently have a 40amp connection to my existing cooker.My question is can I add a junction (ie split the cable in the loft) and run it to the new hob?

"Gramps" wrote in message
...

Some advice please
I am about to install an AEG Induction Hob and AEG Built In Double Oven
on opposite sides of the room.
I currently have a 40amp connection to my existing cooker.My question
is can I add a junction (ie split the cable in the loft) and run it to
the new hob?


when you say "in the loft", do you mean you live in a bungalow and the
cooker cable is being run above the ceiling ?

Sorry,I should have mentioned I live in a Bungalow.One other thing do I have to have 40amps for the hob or can I use 13amp.
Thanks

"Gramps" wrote in message
...

brugnospamsia Wrote:
"Gramps" wrote in message
...-

-

when you say "in the loft", do you mean you live in a bungalow and the
cooker cable is being run above the ceiling ?

Sorry,I should have mentioned I live in a Bungalow.One other thing do I
have to have 40amps for the hob or can I use 13amp.
Thanks



You /might/ just get away with running an electric OVEN off a 13 amp socket
but not a hob :-

"Miele KM464 Ceramic Hob
4 Hi-light Ceramic Cooking Zones"
2 x 1.2kW 1 x 2.2kW 1 x 1.8kW
Total 6.4KW

240 volts / 6400 watts / = 27 amps

----------

13 amps x 240 volts = 3.12 KW max

I would split the 40 amp supply in the loft and fit a second switched cooker
spur on the other side of the room.
(but I'm NOT a qualified electrician)

Jeremy

In article ,
Gramps wrote:
Sorry,I should have mentioned I live in a Bungalow.One other thing do I
have to have 40amps for the hob or can I use 13amp.

If the hob or oven can be run off a 13 amp socket, it will come with a
lead and plug. However, electric hobs are usually near the 13 amp limit
with just the one or two elements, and most have four.

--
*I will always cherish the initial misconceptions I had about you

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Gramps wrote:
Sorry,I should have mentioned I live in a Bungalow.One other thing do I
have to have 40amps for the hob or can I use 13amp.

If the hob or oven can be run off a 13 amp socket, it will come with a
lead and plug. However, electric hobs are usually near the 13 amp limit
with just the one or two elements, and most have four.


I have heard of high street shop "experts" suggesting this was an option ...

I have a persistent childhood memory of my mother's industrial scale (4
kids) laundry sessions with a Hoover "Tanglematic" deluxe twintub. There was
an interlock to prevent you operating the element and motor at the same time
but it didn't stop my dad having to replace the yellowing fishy-smelling
plug on a regular basis.

Jeremy

brugnospamsia wrote:


If the hob or oven can be run off a 13 amp socket, it will come with a
lead and plug. However, electric hobs are usually near the 13 amp limit
with just the one or two elements, and most have four.

I have heard of high street shop "experts" suggesting this was an option ...

I have a persistent childhood memory of my mother's industrial scale (4
kids) laundry sessions with a Hoover "Tanglematic" deluxe twintub. There was
an interlock to prevent you operating the element and motor at the same time
but it didn't stop my dad having to replace the yellowing fishy-smelling
plug on a regular basis.


No-one's suggesting the Original Poster should run their hob off a 13A
plug and socket.

"Hardwiring" both hob and oven to the existing cooker circuit is indeed
the Right Answer. 40A-rated junction boxes aren't easy to find, though:
one kinda-reasonable accessory to use for the job is a cooker connection
outlet.

We've been through a number of these 'separate oven and hob' threads in
the last year or so. The typical rating of ovens makes it possible to
hardwire them through a Fused Connection Unit (FCU), fused at 13A, on an
existing cooker radial circuit with an protective device rating of 30,
32, or 40A, and cable to suit. There's a remaining practical problem
with fitting - in the worst case - two 10mmsq cables into the Supply
side of an FCU's terminals, and we've established that it's OK to use
4mmsq as a short, 'unfused' branch from the main radial - for instance,
connecting into the cooker control switch. ('OK' because the oven here
can't overload the cable, and the fuse/MCB for the whole circuit
provides fault protection for the smaller cable, provided it's only a
short (2-3m) length.

It's the hob that's harder. You can't use a conventional FCU, as 13A is
too low a rating for the hob's peak load. 'In practice' it's usually OK
to run the hob right off the existing cooker circuit, and OK (by the
same reasoning as for the oven) to wire a final short 'tail' in 4mmsq is
the terminals won't accomodate the existing cooker-circuit wiring. The
problem comes if the hob manufacturer's instructions state it ought to
have a 20A protective device, as many Euro-import ones to. To comply
with that, you either end up running a new 20A radial, or running the
oven off the kitchen ring (rarely the best of ideas) and fusing the
cooker radial down to 20A. Fitting a small (2-way) CU onto the existing
cooker circuit is one other solution, but usually aesthetically awful.
Then there's the option of ignoring the manufacturer's strictures -
easier to do if the cooker circuit device is 30A or 32A than if it's 40A
as in this case.

(Oh, and in this case the OP mentions that the hob and oven will end up
at different ands of the kitchen. In this case both need a separate
isolator - it's permitted to use a single isolator for both only if
they're each within 2m of the isolator, if I remember correctly. So a
new FCU for the oven and existing switch for hob would be one OK setup...)

As to your old family plug: for higher-current loads, hardwiring is
preferable, but a decent-quality plug and socket, with the connections
properly tightened (in the socket too - did your dad ever venture into
the back of the socket?), should supply the full 13A without running
more than warm. Poorly-made sockets, el-cheapo plugs, tinned-end flexes
- all these contribute to higher-resistance and thus higher-heating
connections.

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
brugnospamsia wrote:


If the hob or oven can be run off a 13 amp socket, it will come with a
lead and plug. However, electric hobs are usually near the 13 amp limit
with just the one or two elements, and most have four.

I have heard of high street shop "experts" suggesting this was an option
...

I have a persistent childhood memory of my mother's industrial scale (4
kids) laundry sessions with a Hoover "Tanglematic" deluxe twintub. There
was an interlock to prevent you operating the element and motor at the
same time but it didn't stop my dad having to replace the yellowing
fishy-smelling plug on a regular basis.


No-one's suggesting the Original Poster should run their hob off a 13A
plug and socket.

Oops ! - sorry if it sounded like I was suggesting that - no, this was a
long time ago .....

Thinking about it that's almost what I have at home - a gas hob and the
biggest combi oven I could find - which in certain combinations must get
close to the full 13 amps.


"Hardwiring" both hob and oven to the existing cooker circuit is indeed
the Right Answer. 40A-rated junction boxes aren't easy to find, though:
one kinda-reasonable accessory to use for the job is a cooker connection
outlet.

I forgot about that. I've used my redundant cooker feed to drive a mini ring
main in my kitchen (30 amp trip), but must have used a 30 amp box.

edit


As to your old family plug: for higher-current loads, hardwiring is
preferable, but a decent-quality plug and socket, with the connections
properly tightened (in the socket too - did your dad ever venture into the
back of the socket?), should supply the full 13A without running more than
warm. Poorly-made sockets, el-cheapo plugs, tinned-end flexes - all these
contribute to higher-resistance and thus higher-heating connections.

Haven't I read somewhere that the square pins of the UK plug makes the
scockets difficult to get right ?

Jeremy