Power planes
 

In article ,
Huge wrote:
I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate planing things,
what's the assembled multitudes feeling on power planes?

Excellent devices. Take skill to use, though, or you'll end up with a non
square edge.

(In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer
from Screwfix)

Dunno. Mine's a B&D about 10 years+ old.

--
*Failure is not an option. It's bundled with your software.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Power planes
 

Huge wrote in message
...
I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate planing things,
what's the assembled multitudes feeling on power planes?

(In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer
from Screwfix)

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
The uk.transport FAQ; http://www.huge.org.uk/transport/FAQ.html
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]


Can't comment on the Screwfix offering, but I've got an old B&D plane which
works very well. Electric planes are particularly good on the end grain at
the top and bottom of the frame members.

When replacing internal doors I:
* make a careful note of the current fit - and particularly of any gaps -
before removing the old door
* lay the old door on top of the new one, and mark the size - making
allowance for any gaps noted previously
* hold the new door in a Workmate, and plane the edges down to the pencil
marks
* offer it up to the frame to make sure it is right
* mark the hinge and lock positions, using the old door as a template
* finally, fit the hinges and lock

Sorry if this is teaching my grandmother to suck eggs - I know it goes
beyond the original question - but *someone* might find it useful.

Roger

Power planes
 

(Huge) wrote:

Hello Huge

H| I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate
H| planing things, what's the assembled multitudes feeling on
H| power planes?

Whizzy things, and great for removing fingerprints.

H| (In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer
H| from Screwfix)

Don't know them, but I've got one of the Ppro B&Q cheapies (25 a year
or so ago, doubtless cheaper now) and it's fine. Not really suited for
fine detail, but it does a fair job. Planed several hundred mahogany
parquet bricks with it.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

Power planes
 

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
* make a careful note of the current fit - and particularly of any gaps -
before removing the old door

You must be *very* lucky in the fit of old doors in your place. ;-)

--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Power planes
 

On 4 Aug 2003 11:42:54 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Excellent devices. Take skill to use, though, or you'll end up with a non
square edge.

I get that with the manual ones... :o)

Ah yes, but these planers are real timesavers - you get the non-square
edge quicker. ;)

I moved into a new house a few years back, doors were rubbing on the
carpets. So I took the doors outside to give them a dose of the
electric planer. Worked a treat. Only problem was the fscking doors
had fscking staples along the bottome edge - took lumps out of the TCT
planer blades.

No real harm done because the blades are easily replaced, but
annoying.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

Power planes
 

Huge wrote in message ...
"Roger Mills" writes:

Huge wrote in message
...
I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate planing things,
what's the assembled multitudes feeling on power planes?

(In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer
from Screwfix)


Can't comment on the Screwfix offering, but I've got an old B&D plane
which
works very well. Electric planes are particularly good on the end grain at
the top and bottom of the frame members.

Now that's what I wanted to hear. Where's that Screwfix catalogue?

For trimming doors a circular saw is quicker, easier, and more accurate.

Power planes
 

Andrew McKay wrote:
On 4 Aug 2003 11:42:54 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Excellent devices. Take skill to use, though, or you'll end up with
a non square edge.

I get that with the manual ones... :o)

Ah yes, but these planers are real timesavers - you get the non-square
edge quicker. ;)

I moved into a new house a few years back, doors were rubbing on the
carpets. So I took the doors outside to give them a dose of the
electric planer. Worked a treat. Only problem was the fscking doors
had fscking staples along the bottome edge - took lumps out of the TCT
planer blades.

The person who lived here before me laid a new thicker carpet in the back
bedroom and landing and took the doors off to plane the bottoms to fit,
trouble was he did the wrong door so the bathroom's got nearly an inch of
clearance and the back bedroom needs a good shove just te get it to move
through the pile. I would change the doors, there's only 3 of them in total
but I'm a lazy sod so I'm living with it for the time being.

--
James...
http://www.jameshart.co.uk/

Power planes
 

On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 13:03:58 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

Sorry if this is teaching my grandmother to suck eggs - I know it goes
beyond the original question - but *someone* might find it useful.

I finally became "someone" " ;O) This job is intimidatingly on my
horizon! Thanks for the ideas - I got some other complications, but
this is going to help for sure!

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}

Power planes
 

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
For trimming doors a circular saw is quicker, easier, and more accurate.

I'd agree if you have to take a chunk off.

--
*No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Power planes
 

Roger Mills wrote in message ...
For trimming doors a circular saw is quicker, easier, and more accurate.


That's fine if you simply want to cut the bottom off straight to clear a
carpet. Even then, depending on the door facing material, you might get
some
splintering on the side where the saw breaks through.

Often, when fitting a new door into an old frame, you need "vertical" edges
which are not quite straight. This is easier to achieve with a plane than
with a circular saw.

Have to disagree there. You can do tapered cuts on the long edge of a door
starting at zero and ending at 1mm if you wish. All you need is a batten, a
couple of clamps or panel pins, and a scrap of harboard cut to the distance
from the blade to the left hand edge of the saw base. Mark the beginning and
the end of cut, lay the harboard down, slide the batten up to it, fix, and
cut. It's always dead square and impossible to take too much off.
Not so easy of course if you're working on the landing of a third floor
conversion flat but turning out decent work in a confined space is what
chippies get paid for.
My power plane is permanently set to just above zero and only used to smooth
an existing surface. Never seen them as an efficient method of stock
removal.

Power planes
 

Power planes
 

Firmly clamp battens the same thickness as the door to the bottom of
the door, flush with the original end of the door

Of course, I didn't mean to the bottom of the door, I meant clamped to the
sides of the door, set flush to the bottom.

i.e.

| |
| |
| Door |
| |
+| |+
|| || -- Batten
|| ||
++-------++

This way, the batten gets splintered at the end rather than the door.
Obviously a skilled craftsman will be able to use the plane directly, which
is why I use the battens.

Christian.