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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Power planes
In article ,
Huge wrote: I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate planing things, what's the assembled multitudes feeling on power planes? Excellent devices. Take skill to use, though, or you'll end up with a non square edge. (In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer from Screwfix) Dunno. Mine's a B&D about 10 years+ old. -- *Failure is not an option. It's bundled with your software. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#2
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Power planes
Huge wrote in message ... I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate planing things, what's the assembled multitudes feeling on power planes? (In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer from Screwfix) -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." The uk.transport FAQ; http://www.huge.org.uk/transport/FAQ.html [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] Can't comment on the Screwfix offering, but I've got an old B&D plane which works very well. Electric planes are particularly good on the end grain at the top and bottom of the frame members. When replacing internal doors I: * make a careful note of the current fit - and particularly of any gaps - before removing the old door * lay the old door on top of the new one, and mark the size - making allowance for any gaps noted previously * hold the new door in a Workmate, and plane the edges down to the pencil marks * offer it up to the frame to make sure it is right * mark the hinge and lock positions, using the old door as a template * finally, fit the hinges and lock Sorry if this is teaching my grandmother to suck eggs - I know it goes beyond the original question - but *someone* might find it useful. Roger |
#4
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Power planes
In article ,
Roger Mills wrote: * make a careful note of the current fit - and particularly of any gaps - before removing the old door You must be *very* lucky in the fit of old doors in your place. ;-) -- *24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? * Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#5
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Power planes
On 4 Aug 2003 11:42:54 GMT, (Huge) wrote:
Excellent devices. Take skill to use, though, or you'll end up with a non square edge. I get that with the manual ones... ) Ah yes, but these planers are real timesavers - you get the non-square edge quicker. I moved into a new house a few years back, doors were rubbing on the carpets. So I took the doors outside to give them a dose of the electric planer. Worked a treat. Only problem was the fscking doors had fscking staples along the bottome edge - took lumps out of the TCT planer blades. No real harm done because the blades are easily replaced, but annoying. Andrew Do you need a handyman service? Check out our web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk |
#6
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Power planes
Huge wrote in message ... "Roger Mills" writes: Huge wrote in message ... I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate planing things, what's the assembled multitudes feeling on power planes? (In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer from Screwfix) Can't comment on the Screwfix offering, but I've got an old B&D plane which works very well. Electric planes are particularly good on the end grain at the top and bottom of the frame members. Now that's what I wanted to hear. Where's that Screwfix catalogue? For trimming doors a circular saw is quicker, easier, and more accurate. |
#7
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Power planes
Andrew McKay wrote:
On 4 Aug 2003 11:42:54 GMT, (Huge) wrote: Excellent devices. Take skill to use, though, or you'll end up with a non square edge. I get that with the manual ones... ) Ah yes, but these planers are real timesavers - you get the non-square edge quicker. I moved into a new house a few years back, doors were rubbing on the carpets. So I took the doors outside to give them a dose of the electric planer. Worked a treat. Only problem was the fscking doors had fscking staples along the bottome edge - took lumps out of the TCT planer blades. The person who lived here before me laid a new thicker carpet in the back bedroom and landing and took the doors off to plane the bottoms to fit, trouble was he did the wrong door so the bathroom's got nearly an inch of clearance and the back bedroom needs a good shove just te get it to move through the pile. I would change the doors, there's only 3 of them in total but I'm a lazy sod so I'm living with it for the time being. -- James... http://www.jameshart.co.uk/ |
#8
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Power planes
On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 13:03:58 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote: Sorry if this is teaching my grandmother to suck eggs - I know it goes beyond the original question - but *someone* might find it useful. I finally became "someone" " ;O) This job is intimidatingly on my horizon! Thanks for the ideas - I got some other complications, but this is going to help for sure! Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux} |
#9
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Power planes
In article ,
stuart noble wrote: For trimming doors a circular saw is quicker, easier, and more accurate. I'd agree if you have to take a chunk off. -- *No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
#10
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Power planes
Roger Mills wrote in message ... For trimming doors a circular saw is quicker, easier, and more accurate. That's fine if you simply want to cut the bottom off straight to clear a carpet. Even then, depending on the door facing material, you might get some splintering on the side where the saw breaks through. Often, when fitting a new door into an old frame, you need "vertical" edges which are not quite straight. This is easier to achieve with a plane than with a circular saw. Have to disagree there. You can do tapered cuts on the long edge of a door starting at zero and ending at 1mm if you wish. All you need is a batten, a couple of clamps or panel pins, and a scrap of harboard cut to the distance from the blade to the left hand edge of the saw base. Mark the beginning and the end of cut, lay the harboard down, slide the batten up to it, fix, and cut. It's always dead square and impossible to take too much off. Not so easy of course if you're working on the landing of a third floor conversion flat but turning out decent work in a confined space is what chippies get paid for. My power plane is permanently set to just above zero and only used to smooth an existing surface. Never seen them as an efficient method of stock removal. |
#11
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Power planes
(Simon Avery) wrote in message ...
(Huge) wrote: Hello Huge H| I have a number(seven) of doors to fit, and since I hate H| planing things, what's the assembled multitudes feeling on H| power planes? Whizzy things, and great for removing fingerprints. H| (In particular the (doubtless sold out) one on special offer H| from Screwfix) Don't know them, but I've got one of the Ppro B&Q cheapies (25 a year or so ago, doubtless cheaper now) and it's fine. Not really suited for fine detail, but it does a fair job. Planed several hundred mahogany parquet bricks with it. We've got an el-cheapo from Argos (Challenge), which includes a spare blade and a setting jig for re-sharpening. It's been really usefull for trimming doors, although you need to watch for staples/nails! |
#12
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Power planes
Firmly clamp battens the same thickness as the door to the bottom of
the door, flush with the original end of the door Of course, I didn't mean to the bottom of the door, I meant clamped to the sides of the door, set flush to the bottom. i.e. | | | | | Door | | | +| |+ || || -- Batten || || ++-------++ This way, the batten gets splintered at the end rather than the door. Obviously a skilled craftsman will be able to use the plane directly, which is why I use the battens. Christian. |
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