I have a wall mounted gas heater where the gas is supplied via (bare)
copper pipe buried in the floor screed. Eventually the floor will be
tiled, thus rendering the pipe inaccessible. So, while I am doing the
rest of the kitchen I want to take the opportunity to terminate the gas
supply prior to the point at which it enters the concrete.

How can I do it? Close valves to and from gas meter. Fit earthing
jumper across inlet and outlet pipes. Remove gas meter. Cut gas pipe
at convenient point. Seal cut end - but with what? I wondered about
a Compression Fan Key Gas Cock on the basis that once I have
re-installed the gas meter I can open the tap to purge the gas/air mixture.

When my gas hob is intalled I will expect the fitter to make a proper
(?) connection for the hob.

TIA

Richard

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On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 23:16:18 +0000, Richard strung
together this:

How can I do it? Close valves to and from gas meter. Fit earthing
jumper across inlet and outlet pipes. Remove gas meter. Cut gas pipe
at convenient point. Seal cut end - but with what? I wondered about
a Compression Fan Key Gas Cock on the basis that once I have
re-installed the gas meter I can open the tap to purge the gas/air mixture.

Er, I think you've somewhat over engineered this. I'd call in a CORGI
registered gas engineer if I were you.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

A gas cock is classed as an open end, which is an imediately dangerous unsafe situation, if you got cought your gas would be cut off.

A CORGI REGISTERED INSTALLER LIKE MYSELF WOULD remove the meter, and solder an end feed cap over the end.

Paul Barker wrote:
A gas cock is classed as an open end, which is an imediately dangerous
unsafe situation, if you got cought your gas would be cut off.

A CORGI REGISTERED INSTALLER LIKE MYSELF WOULD remove the meter, and
solder an end feed cap over the end.


.... although a compression cap would be acceptable providing it is
accessible. A smear of boss white or other suitable-for-natural-gas
joint sealing compound over the mating surfaces will help ensure it is
gas-tight, though you must still do a tightness test on the installation
to check that it is OK. See Ed's faq.

In article , John Stumbles wrote:
A CORGI REGISTERED INSTALLER LIKE MYSELF WOULD remove the
meter, and solder an end feed cap over the end.


.... although a compression cap would be acceptable providing
it is accessible.

and has the advantage that at a later date you can just undo it
and substitute a coupling to reinstate the supply.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser
http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm

Richard wrote:
I have a wall mounted gas heater where the gas is supplied via (bare)
copper pipe buried in the floor screed. Eventually the floor will be
tiled, thus rendering the pipe inaccessible. So, while I am doing the
rest of the kitchen I want to take the opportunity to terminate the gas
supply prior to the point at which it enters the concrete.

How can I do it? Close valves to and from gas meter. Fit earthing

Call your gas company, ask them to relocate the meter outside.
(there will be a charge).
Don't reconnect the gas pipes.

Ian Stirling wrote:

Call your gas company, ask them to relocate the meter outside.
(there will be a charge).
Don't reconnect the gas pipes.


Why do I want to move the meter? It is quiet happily located under the
stairs with the lecy meter.

Richard

--
Real email address is RJS at BIGFOOT dot COM

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Paul Barker wrote:

A gas cock is classed as an open end, which is an imediately dangerous
unsafe situation, if you got cought your gas would be cut off.

A CORGI REGISTERED INSTALLER LIKE MYSELF WOULD remove the meter, and
solder an end feed cap over the end.




I think that I may not have made myself entirely clear. The item that
I wish to isolate from the gas supply is a wall mounted gas Heater. I
do not want to remove my gas Meter. I only mentioned (temporarily)
disconnecting the meter because I had gathered from the plumber who
fitted my boiler that it is the prudent thing to do when doing any gas work.

The summary of my aim is the cutting and sealing of the gas pipe to the
gas Heater (only).

TIA

Richard

--
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Richard wrote:


Ian Stirling wrote:

Call your gas company, ask them to relocate the meter outside.
(there will be a charge).
Don't reconnect the gas pipes.


Why do I want to move the meter? It is quiet happily located under the
stairs with the lecy meter.

I mean ask them to relocate it outside, so it can be more conveniently read.

On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 11:18:17 +0000, John Stumbles wrote:

Paul Barker wrote:
A gas cock is classed as an open end, which is an imediately dangerous
unsafe situation, if you got cought your gas would be cut off.

A CORGI REGISTERED INSTALLER LIKE MYSELF WOULD remove the meter, and
solder an end feed cap over the end.


... although a compression cap would be acceptable providing it is
accessible. A smear of boss white or other suitable-for-natural-gas
joint sealing compound over the mating surfaces will help ensure it is
gas-tight, though you must still do a tightness test on the installation
to check that it is OK. See Ed's faq.

I'm happy with the OP reading the FAQ - 'Richard' however should remember
that 'reading the FAQ does not give him a licence to do gas fitting beyond
his level of competence'.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 20:09:05 +0000, Richard wrote:



Paul Barker wrote:

A gas cock is classed as an open end, which is an imediately dangerous
unsafe situation, if you got cought your gas would be cut off.

A CORGI REGISTERED INSTALLER LIKE MYSELF WOULD remove the meter, and
solder an end feed cap over the end.




I think that I may not have made myself entirely clear. The item that
I wish to isolate from the gas supply is a wall mounted gas Heater. I
do not want to remove my gas Meter. I only mentioned (temporarily)
disconnecting the meter because I had gathered from the plumber who
fitted my boiler that it is the prudent thing to do when doing any gas work.

The summary of my aim is the cutting and sealing of the gas pipe to the
gas Heater (only).



This is a straight forward job:
Cut off gas,
bridge across where you are going to cut the pipe (to stop you get
an electric shock if your gas pipe has become a part of the electric
installation)
cut pipe,
cap pipe (compression stop end if accessible or solder end NOT a valve.)
test for soundness
Purge supply to remaining appliances.
Turn gas back on.
Relight remain appliances.

If you are going to solder and the gas meter is near (less than 2m away)
then it is good practice to disconnect the outlet and cap it (or insert a
stop disc in the outlet connector.)

Do not remove the meter.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Ian Stirling wrote:

I mean ask them to relocate it outside, so it can be more conveniently read.


Ah! Understand now. Unfortunately I do not want a hideous white box on
the front of the house and the meter readers only come once a year (so
far) to read both elecy and gas, and when they do it's been at crack of
dawn on a weekday before work.

Ta

Richard

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Real email address is RJS at BIGFOOT dot COM

The information contained in this post
may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info

Ed Sirett wrote:

This is a straight forward job:
Cut off gas,
bridge across where you are going to cut the pipe (to stop you get
an electric shock if your gas pipe has become a part of the electric
installation)
cut pipe,
cap pipe (compression stop end if accessible or solder end NOT a valve.)
test for soundness
Purge supply to remaining appliances.
Turn gas back on.
Relight remain appliances.

If you are going to solder and the gas meter is near (less than 2m away)
then it is good practice to disconnect the outlet and cap it (or insert a
stop disc in the outlet connector.)

Do not remove the meter.



Thanks Ed,

Do I not need to worry about purging the length of capped pipe? That
was why I suggested a valve. What I should have included was the
intention to fit a short, capped length of pipe down stream from the valve.

Rgds Richard

--
Real email address is RJS at BIGFOOT dot COM

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