| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
Air conditioning thread
Simon Gardner wrote:
The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Good plan. I'll kick off. I want to install aircon in the office - which is south facing, with a big window, and about 3.5x4.5m. With blinds, I reckon I need about 2-3kW of cooling. I want a split unit, and I intend to put a hole in the (external) wall, and put the pipes/cables through it. I would like a recommendation of a make/model and supplier please. I've googled this one to death, and phoned several suppliers, who were quite frankly morons. I know there must be good ones out there, but they clearly don't have well promoted websites. It's important that the heat exchanger can be permanently mounted on the outside of the house. This really seems to throw the suppliers, and they come up with lines like "well, it's not meant for outside installation, but it'll probably be ok". -- Grunff |
Air conditioning thread
"Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Lets hope if it gets going we don't end up with yet another multi kb thread of Andy trying to educate International Mouth of Dysentry over basic physics in THIS universe! I notice that heat pumps are being discussed in this summers trade mags:-) |
Air conditioning thread
In article , Grunff
writes Simon Gardner wrote: The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Good plan. I'll kick off. I want to install aircon in the office - which is south facing, with a big window, and about 3.5x4.5m. With blinds, I reckon I need about 2-3kW of cooling. I want a split unit, and I intend to put a hole in the (external) wall, and put the pipes/cables through it. I would like a recommendation of a make/model and supplier please. I've googled this one to death, and phoned several suppliers, who were quite frankly morons. I know there must be good ones out there, but they clearly don't have well promoted websites. It's important that the heat exchanger can be permanently mounted on the outside of the house. This really seems to throw the suppliers, and they come up with lines like "well, it's not meant for outside installation, but it'll probably be ok". Your probably talking to the wrong sort of suppliers. I have aircon at home in my office and have been involved with the installation of others. Any real aircon firm worth its salt should be able to advise on this with their eyes shut. Where are you?, if in East Anglia I know of some really good outfits but I find it very difficult to believe that you can't find anyone to advise!. Perhaps could try a web search for Fujitsu or Dakin and see if they have recommended installers in your area. Failing that you could phone Adcocks here in Cambridge or constant cooling on 01223 834711 who are based in this area and have been very helpful in the past they may know someone in your area.. -- Tony Sayer |
Air conditioning thread
tony sayer wrote:
Your probably talking to the wrong sort of suppliers. That much I figured out. I think the mistake I've made is to search for suppliers, thinking I'd like to install the thing myself. This is because I contacted a local aircon firm, who said that they simply aren't interested in supplying anything unless they install it. Where are you?, if in East Anglia I know of some really good outfits but I find it very difficult to believe that you can't find anyone to advise!. I'm in Devon, so no good. Perhaps could try a web search for Fujitsu or Dakin and see if they have recommended installers in your area. Failing that you could phone Adcocks here in Cambridge or constant cooling on 01223 834711 who are based in this area and have been very helpful in the past they may know someone in your area.. Do you think that I have no choice but to get someone to install it for me? I recognise that it'll need charging up after being plumbed together, but I'd like to put it in myself. Not so much to save money, but because I just don't like anyone else working on my house (or car, or PC hardware, etc. etc.) -- Grunff |
Air conditioning thread
Grunff wrote:
tony sayer wrote: Your probably talking to the wrong sort of suppliers. That much I figured out. I think the mistake I've made is to search for suppliers, thinking I'd like to install the thing myself. This is because I contacted a local aircon firm, who said that they simply aren't interested in supplying anything unless they install it. Shows where the profit is then. Play them at their own game, get a quote off them and see what gear they suggest. -- James... http://www.jameshart.co.uk/ |
Air conditioning thread
Do you think that I have no choice but to get someone to install
it for me? I recognise that it'll need charging up after being plumbed together, but I'd like to put it in myself. Not so much to save money, but because I just don't like anyone else working on my house (or car, or PC hardware, etc. etc.) Right!, I think that may be the problem. Its not something I'd like to install or work on myself as specialist equipment is required. I believe that they still are a bit fussy re the gasses involved, but really for what you can get a system installed for its quite good value... -- Tony Sayer |
Air conditioning thread
Grunff wrote:
I recognise that it'll need charging up after being plumbed together, Seems not. Some come with non-leak connecitons. http://www.globalcooling.org.uk/Maestro.htm This company seem to cater for DIY installs; they even have video/VCD available - and a user forum http://www.globalcooling.org.uk/kit.htm but I'd like to put it in myself. Not so much to save money, but because I just don't like anyone else working on my house (or car, or PC hardware, etc. etc.) |
Air conditioning thread
parish wrote:
Grunff wrote: I recognise that it'll need charging up after being plumbed together, Seems not. Some come with non-leak connecitons. Before someone points out that *no* connections should leak, I meant non-leak snap together connections http://www.globalcooling.org.uk/Maestro.htm This company seem to cater for DIY installs; they even have video/VCD available - and a user forum http://www.globalcooling.org.uk/kit.htm but I'd like to put it in myself. Not so much to save money, but because I just don't like anyone else working on my house (or car, or PC hardware, etc. etc.) |
Air conditioning thread
Your application seems to occupy that no-mans land between domestic
single-pak units and the big commercial splits. I'd be tempted to go for one of the pre-gassed splits which are intended for non-a/c trades to install. (This electrician and fridge-mender has installed four). Suggest the ones from Addvent (part of City Electrical Factors) which I'd reckon are OK for a competent, well tooled, DIYer to install. |
Air conditioning thread
I recognise that it'll need charging up after being
plumbed together, Seems not. Some come with non-leak connecitons. http://www.globalcooling.org.uk/Maestro.htm I installed the 3.4kw model two months ago, and I'm really pleased with it. It's really easy to install, and makes little noise inside. I'm using it a lot more than I expected to. Just drill a 80cm hole in wall, mount bracket on interior wall, pass pipes through hole, hang interior unit on bracket, connect up to exterior unit, add power, and enjoy! The only thing you have to watch for, is the location of where you want to install the unit. The hole has to be on the lower left side of the indoor unit, (out the back, or too the left), and the water pipe must slant down for gravity. The compressor is very heavy - probably best left on floor, and it's a little noisy too, so it may upset the neighbours if too close. S. |
Air conditioning thread
On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 21:58:02 UTC, Stuart wrote:
lot more than I expected to. Just drill a 80cm hole in wall, mount bracket That's a bloody big core drill! -- Bob Eager rde at tavi.co.uk PC Server 325*4; PS/2s 9585, 8595, 9595*2, 8580*3, P70, PC/AT.. |
Air conditioning thread
lot more than I expected to. Just drill a 80cm hole in wall, mount bracket That's a bloody big core drill! cm/mm's aside ;) , I just used a £25 Argos SDS drill. Much easier than I anticipated. S. |
Air conditioning thread
On 2 Aug 2003 22:27:25 GMT, (Bob Eager) wrote:
lot more than I expected to. Just drill a 80cm hole in wall, mount bracket That's a bloody big core drill! :) Make sure to hire the JCB with drill attachment with it - I don't think the Black and Decker will take kindly to this one. Andrew Do you need a handyman service? Check out our web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk |
Air conditioning thread
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 02:54:29 +0100, John Rumm
wrote: Grunff wrote: I would like a recommendation of a make/model and supplier please. No idea wat this bunch are like - but they do have lots of kit in their catalogue! http://www.coolbuys.co.uk/products/topsellers-1.stm It's unclear whether they sell the pieces necessary to DIY the installation ,however - unlike some of the other suppliers. They also have a paragraph on their web site saying that it isn't worth considering fitting yourself because the prices to install are so low. The other supplier mentioned that it takes about two hours to fit a split system yourself. That's probably optimistic and does not include running the power to the appropriate place(s), so realistically half a day. That being the case, professional installation, assuming it's done properly, isn't going to be that cheap and I think I prefer to make the judgment call on whether it's worth installing myself or not. The other supplier has self -install packages, but only for up to a certain power level and length of refrigerant lines - not a bad idea it seems. I wonder if any of the suppliers will do just a commissioning service, where they supply equipment and instructions to fit, and then offer a commissioning service to check and charge the system. ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
Air conditioning thread
Andy Hall wrote:
No idea wat this bunch are like - but they do have lots of kit in their catalogue! http://www.coolbuys.co.uk/products/topsellers-1.stm It's unclear whether they sell the pieces necessary to DIY the installation ,however - unlike some of the other suppliers. They were one of the people I called, and were frankly quite unhelpful. Maybe I got the wrong guy and the rest of the staff are great, maybe they're all like that. I'll never find out. -- Grunff |
Air conditioning thread
|
Air conditioning thread
|
Air conditioning thread
"Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Having just been saunad in my loft I am considering lo-tech solutions. Heat is via roof. Roof is tile. Old way of cooling water is to put in porous pot and allow evapouration to keep water cool. Hmm..... If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house? [Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in the summer as well as going up in the winter] The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off would not be wasted. Test spray with a hose pipe may be in order :-) As I am not on a water meter so far this would also be an economical solution. Water valve in loft controlled by thermostat? Cheeers Dave R |
Air conditioning thread
Simon Gardner wrote:
In article , Andy Hall wrote: It took the insatllers of my system (two 3.5KW units inside and a common condenser outside) most of a day to fit it. I'd have thought two hours exceedingly optimistic for DIY. How many rooms does that cover and how large, Simon? What make did you buy? It basically covers the two rooms. I'll measure them sometime (or dig out the quotes) but they aren't huge. OTOH there is an unusually large amount of electronics in them and they both get morning and afternoon sun. Be interested to know the cost, if you can remember. They are Mitsubishi units. Some of the quotes I got were (I felt) underspecified (hadn't taken the electronics enough into account) and as it turns out I certainly wouldn't have wanted any less than the 7kW total for the two rooms that we ended up getting. I prefer an ambient 20 or at most 21 if working. The system copes with external temperatures peaking at 32 for days on end but certainly wouldn't if it had been smaller. |
Air conditioning thread
Do they not have any requirement to evacuate and dry off the pipework during install? No. The units and all the pipework is already filled with gas under a positive pressure. The pipes connect with fittings similar to the hydraulic fittings you get on tractors/plant (only smaller), so no brazing/nitrogen flushing/vacuum required. Also wondered if there are any smaller units which work on the principle of having all the refrigerent parts (compressor, evaporator and condensor) in the outside unit and supplied ready setup and working, and then circulate cold water to the inside unit, which strikes me as quite DIY installable. The unit we have at work operates this way, feeding fancoil units with chilled water, but I think it's rated somewhere near a MW, and the outdoor unit would occupy my whole back garden ;-) I have heard someone mention portable split units which work this way, with chilled water in the umbillical connection. |
Air conditioning thread
In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote: Also wondered if there are any smaller units which work on the principle of having all the refrigerent parts (compressor, evaporator and condensor) in the outside unit and supplied ready setup and working, and then circulate cold water to the inside unit, which strikes me as quite DIY installable. Wouldn't it make the 'internal' heat exchanger rather large? -- *Cover me. I'm changing lanes. Dave Plowman London SW 12 RIP Acorn |
Air conditioning thread
In article ,
Dave Plowman writes: In article , Andrew Gabriel wrote: Also wondered if there are any smaller units which work on the principle of having all the refrigerent parts (compressor, evaporator and condensor) in the outside unit and supplied ready setup and working, and then circulate cold water to the inside unit, which strikes me as quite DIY installable. Wouldn't it make the 'internal' heat exchanger rather large? I can't think why it would be any different -- indeed they look exactly the same as the refrigerent filled evaporators to me. The ends of the heat exchanger are different -- standard plumbing, gate valves, etc. which is why it struck me as much more DIYable. -- Andrew Gabriel |
Air conditioning thread
In article ,
"David W.E. Roberts" writes: If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house? [Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in the summer as well as going up in the winter] The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off would not be wasted. There wouldn't be any run off if you get it just right. You might end up with hard water scale all over your roof though! What about using the water in the butt with a pump? Run off doesn't matter then, it just goes round and round. Might end up with a steaming hot water butt thought ;-) -- Andrew Gabriel |
Air conditioning thread
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Might end up with a steaming hot water butt thought ;-) Or Hot Tub as the Yanks would call it :-) |
Air conditioning thread
"Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. I have plumbed out my Heat Recovery System for it - (Villavent), won't be up and running until end of year - hope this isn't the only heatwave of the century ! Rick |
Air conditioning thread
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message news:bgj8n2 Having just been saunad in my loft I am considering lo-tech solutions.
Heat is via roof. Roof is tile. Old way of cooling water is to put in porous pot and allow evapouration to keep water cool. Hmm..... If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house? [Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in the summer as well as going up in the winter] The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off would not be wasted. This is what the market traders in Prague do with their stalls. It did just seem to make puddles on the floor but I guess it must work otherwise they wouldn't do it? |
Air conditioning thread
"David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Having just been saunad in my loft I am considering lo-tech solutions. Heat is via roof. Roof is tile. Old way of cooling water is to put in porous pot and allow evapouration to keep water cool. Hmm..... If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house? [Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in the summer as well as going up in the winter] The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off would not be wasted. Test spray with a hose pipe may be in order :-) As I am not on a water meter so far this would also be an economical solution. Water valve in loft controlled by thermostat? Cheeers Dave R Alot of pergola's here in Australia have this 'feature' and in the summer everyone tries to get under the bit with the most water coming out - it never makes it to the end of the run. Works well Rob |
Air conditioning thread
"rob" wrote in message
u... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Difficult to resist a small gloat as I sit in my 'home office' with the air conditioner whispering the temperature down to a comfortable 22 degrees when the OAT according to the thermometer in the car is 34 degrees ... Yes, it cost a bit to have it installed, but through last winter it acted as a localised heater therefore not requiring the gas boiler on heating the whole house, and over the last few months has provided very efficient cooling, significantly enhancing productivity (if you disregard the time spent on mailing News groups gloating ... ) :) :) :) |
Air conditioning thread
On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 15:53:57 +0100, "Mike Faithfull"
wrote: Difficult to resist a small gloat as I sit in my 'home office' with the air conditioner whispering the temperature down to a comfortable 22 degrees when the OAT according to the thermometer in the car is 34 degrees ... Yes, it cost a bit to have it installed, but through last winter it acted as a localised heater therefore not requiring the gas boiler on heating the whole house, and over the last few months has provided very efficient cooling, significantly enhancing productivity (if you disregard the time spent on mailing News groups gloating ... ) :) :) :) So tell us more...my "home office", ie spare bedroom, must be well over 30 now. -- email: jim.hatfield.org (replace the "a" with "@") |
Air conditioning thread
"rob" wrote in message u... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Having just been saunad in my loft I am considering lo-tech solutions. Heat is via roof. Roof is tile. Old way of cooling water is to put in porous pot and allow evapouration to keep water cool. Hmm..... If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house? [Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in the summer as well as going up in the winter] The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off would not be wasted. Test spray with a hose pipe may be in order :-) As I am not on a water meter so far this would also be an economical solution. Water valve in loft controlled by thermostat? Cheeers Dave R Alot of pergola's here in Australia have this 'feature' and in the summer everyone tries to get under the bit with the most water coming out - it never makes it to the end of the run. Works well Rob Tried spraying the roof with a hose this afternoon. Not sure if it cooled the loft down much but it didn't half generate some steam! Very pretty, too as the water trickled down over the tiles and into the guttering (although most seemed to steam off). I suspect a lot of water would be required to cool effectively. |
Air conditioning thread
David W.E. Roberts wrote:
"rob" wrote in message u... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Having just been saunad in my loft I am considering lo-tech solutions. Heat is via roof. Roof is tile. Old way of cooling water is to put in porous pot and allow evapouration to keep water cool. Hmm..... If I was to run one of those automatic watering hose pipes (the ones with loads of small holes all the way along) along the ridge of the roof, then allow a small flow of water down the roof over the tiles, wouldn't that keep the roof void cool and reduce the heating effect for the rest of the house? [Granted that loft insulation should be keeping the heat from coming down in the summer as well as going up in the winter] The South facing roof slope also drains into a water butt so any run off would not be wasted. Test spray with a hose pipe may be in order :-) As I am not on a water meter so far this would also be an economical solution. Water valve in loft controlled by thermostat? Cheeers Dave R Alot of pergola's here in Australia have this 'feature' and in the summer everyone tries to get under the bit with the most water coming out - it never makes it to the end of the run. Works well Rob Tried spraying the roof with a hose this afternoon. Not sure if it cooled the loft down much but it didn't half generate some I would think that you need to start the water flowing *before* the tiles start heating up (i.e. don't let them get hot in the first place). Once they are hot and have transferred the heat to the loft it'll take a mighty lot of water to cool the loft down again. steam! Very pretty, too as the water trickled down over the tiles and into the guttering (although most seemed to steam off). I suspect a lot of water would be required to cool effectively. |
Air conditioning thread
"Mike Faithfull" wrote in message ... "rob" wrote in message u... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Difficult to resist a small gloat as I sit in my 'home office' with the air conditioner whispering the temperature down to a comfortable 22 degrees when the OAT according to the thermometer in the car is 34 degrees ... Yes, it cost a bit to have it installed, but through last winter it acted as a localised heater therefore not requiring the gas boiler on heating the whole house, and over the last few months has provided very efficient cooling, significantly enhancing productivity (if you disregard the time spent on mailing News groups gloating ... ) :) :) :) I was in a building that was highly insulated with the windows with roof overhangs that shaded them from the sun. Windows were open to give through ventilation and few desk fans were on. The temperature was very comfortable as insulation keeps heat out as well as in. Comncemrtrate on the fabric of the building and through ventilation. The last thing I want in hot weather is to sit in 20C inside. As the outside temp rises you acclimatise and can take higher indoor temps. --- -- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003 |
Air conditioning thread
In article , IMM
writes "Mike Faithfull" wrote in message ... "rob" wrote in message u... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Difficult to resist a small gloat as I sit in my 'home office' with the air conditioner whispering the temperature down to a comfortable 22 degrees when the OAT according to the thermometer in the car is 34 degrees ... Yes, it cost a bit to have it installed, but through last winter it acted as a localised heater therefore not requiring the gas boiler on heating the whole house, and over the last few months has provided very efficient cooling, significantly enhancing productivity (if you disregard the time spent on mailing News groups gloating ... ) :) :) :) I was in a building that was highly insulated with the windows with roof overhangs that shaded them from the sun. Windows were open to give through ventilation and few desk fans were on. The temperature was very comfortable as insulation keeps heat out as well as in. Comncemrtrate on the fabric of the building and through ventilation. The last thing I want in hot weather is to sit in 20C inside. As the outside temp rises you acclimatise and can take higher indoor temps. Course what the International Man of Muddle often forgets is the sodding humidity and that theres a heat gain from the equipment you need to have in the room Hence that's why I've got aircon and on a day like today I can actually work in the place. Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... -- Tony Sayer |
Air conditioning thread
"tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , IMM writes "Mike Faithfull" wrote in message ... "rob" wrote in message u... "David W.E. Roberts" wrote in message ... "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... The temperature in the SE is expected to reach 32 by Wednesday of this coming week. This space is therefore reserved for the air conditioning thread. Difficult to resist a small gloat as I sit in my 'home office' with the air conditioner whispering the temperature down to a comfortable 22 degrees when the OAT according to the thermometer in the car is 34 degrees ... Yes, it cost a bit to have it installed, but through last winter it acted as a localised heater therefore not requiring the gas boiler on heating the whole house, and over the last few months has provided very efficient cooling, significantly enhancing productivity (if you disregard the time spent on mailing News groups gloating ... ) :) :) :) I was in a building that was highly insulated with the windows with roof overhangs that shaded them from the sun. Windows were open to give through ventilation and few desk fans were on. The temperature was very comfortable as insulation keeps heat out as well as in. Comncemrtrate on the fabric of the building and through ventilation. The last thing I want in hot weather is to sit in 20C inside. As the outside temp rises you acclimatise and can take higher indoor temps. Course what the International Man of Muddle often forgets is the sodding humidity and that theres a heat gain from the equipment you need to have in the room Hence that's why I've got aircon and on a day like today I can actually work in the place. No machines with large heat outputs were around. Laptops and the likes. Lights were localised on desks. A heavy printer was in a separate room. Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... Humidity was not a problem. --- -- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003 |
Air conditioning thread
"Jim Hatfield" wrote in message
... On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 15:53:57 +0100, "Mike Faithfull" wrote: Difficult to resist a small gloat as I sit in my 'home office' with the air conditioner whispering the temperature down to a comfortable 22 degrees when the OAT according to the thermometer in the car is 34 degrees ... So tell us more...my "home office", ie spare bedroom, must be well over 30 now. I think the subject has already been done to death in the past Jim, but in a nutshell, the office - like many others have - is an 'extra room' on the end of the garage, about 11'x7' (always intended as 'workspace' right from the Architect's design stage) and I am very happy with a split a/c system (rated at about 2.7Kw ?) installed last year. In previous threads the general consensus seemed to be that evaporative coolers are a waste of space, portable units are not very effective, but are better than nothing, but a 'proper' permanent installation is the way to go. Others suggested that improved insulation, use of appropriate vegetation and other 'natural' measures were a preferable and lower cost alternative. A DIY alternative to a specialist-installed system is available to suit a 'spare bedroom office' if you have a bit of free space available against an outside wall. It requires no "plumbing", purging, charging with refrigerant etc., merely a hole through the wall similar to that required for a tumble dryer for the warm air exhaust, then all the other gubbins is contained in one ready-to-go unit that is fitted on the wall inside. Most owners of cars with automatic transmission would not go back to manual; most owners of cars fitted with air conditioning would not go back to one without. As for me, I now wonder how I ever managed over the last 9 years without a/c in the 'office' ... |
Air conditioning thread
On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 23:28:27 +0100, "IMM" wrote:
Course what the International Man of Muddle often forgets is the sodding humidity and that theres a heat gain from the equipment you need to have in the room Hence that's why I've got aircon and on a day like today I can actually work in the place. No machines with large heat outputs were around. Laptops and the likes. Lights were localised on desks. A heavy printer was in a separate room. Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... Humidity was not a problem. --- It must be great to live in a world where you can make up the stories as you go along..... ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
Air conditioning thread
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 23:28:27 +0100, "IMM" wrote: Course what the International Man of Muddle often forgets is the sodding humidity and that theres a heat gain from the equipment you need to have in the room Hence that's why I've got aircon and on a day like today I can actually work in the place. No machines with large heat outputs were around. Laptops and the likes. Lights were localised on desks. A heavy printer was in a separate room. Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... Humidity was not a problem. It must be great to live in a world where you can make up the stories as you go along..... Tell us what it is like then. Some nice Enid Blyton stuff you have come up with lately. You should go to: alt.children.stories. --- -- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003 |
Air conditioning thread
"Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message
... In article , tony sayer wrote: Course what the International Man of Muddle often forgets is the sodding humidity and that theres a heat gain from the equipment you need to have in the room Hence that's why I've got aircon and on a day like today I can actually work in the place. Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... Quite. Once again exceedingly grateful that it's 21 indoors and under 45 per cent RH. 21C!! In this weather that is cold. Laws should be introduced to stop people installing this crap in domestic homes. All is does is increase global warming. Go and get your building fabric sorted out: insulation, shading, ventilation with air drawn from the north side, air extracted at ceiling level to eliminate the hot pool of heat created by the thermals mass of the ceiling, loft fans to draw in cool overnight air cooling the loft ready for it to absorb the heat of the following day and draw out excessive daytime heat, etc. Look at how hot countries do it naturally.. A/C in the UK!! Madness!! --- -- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/2003 |
Air conditioning thread
Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... Humidity was not a problem. Course!, silly me I'd forgotten that IMM doesn't sweat!... -- Tony Sayer |
Air conditioning thread
In article , IMM
writes "Simon Gardner" [dot]co[dot]uk wrote in message ... In article , tony sayer wrote: Course what the International Man of Muddle often forgets is the sodding humidity and that theres a heat gain from the equipment you need to have in the room Hence that's why I've got aircon and on a day like today I can actually work in the place. Course when its 30 odd outside the fans that blow the air round that comes in through the windows manage to get that and the humidity down, don't they?..... Quite. Once again exceedingly grateful that it's 21 indoors and under 45 per cent RH. 21C!! In this weather that is cold. Laws should be introduced to stop people installing this crap in domestic homes. All is does is increase global warming. Well in this instance I'll agree with IMM! 21c is really cool. However as long as the RH is OK then I don't mind it being hotter.. Go and get your building fabric sorted out: insulation, shading, ventilation with air drawn from the north side, air extracted at ceiling level to eliminate the hot pool of heat created by the thermals mass of the ceiling, loft fans to draw in cool overnight air cooling the loft ready for it to absorb the heat of the following day and draw out excessive daytime heat, etc. Look at how hot countries do it naturally.. A/C in the UK!! Madness!! So how do you get the humidity down to a tolerable level?.. -- Tony Sayer |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:15 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter