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-   -   UFH Screed & Additive Advice (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/7514-ufh-screed-additive-advice.html)

Steve House March 31st 04 09:21 PM

UFH Screed & Additive Advice
 
Hi,

I am looking to install underfloor heating in a new build conservatory. I
will be using 50mm Celotex insulation and UFH pipes attached to a steel
mesh. I will be getting a local tradesman in to do the 75mm screed.

I have seen various UFH information that talks about using an additive in
the screed. What screed mix should I be looking for i.e. sand/cement/grit
ratios and what type/where can I get the right additive for this
application?

Cheers

Steve..



Nick Brooks April 1st 04 10:35 AM

UFH Screed & Additive Advice
 
Steve House wrote:
Hi,

I am looking to install underfloor heating in a new build conservatory. I
will be using 50mm Celotex insulation and UFH pipes attached to a steel
mesh. I will be getting a local tradesman in to do the 75mm screed.

I have seen various UFH information that talks about using an additive in
the screed. What screed mix should I be looking for i.e. sand/cement/grit
ratios and what type/where can I get the right additive for this
application?

Cheers

Steve..


Unless you need the wire mesh for structural reason it's MUCH easier to
use the red plastic stuff illustrated here

http://www.polypipe.com/POLYPIPE/pp_..._02-01-03.html

the pipes just clip in

Nick Brooks

The Natural Philosopher April 1st 04 11:59 AM

UFH Screed & Additive Advice
 
Nick Brooks wrote:

Steve House wrote:

Hi,

I am looking to install underfloor heating in a new build conservatory. I
will be using 50mm Celotex insulation and UFH pipes attached to a steel
mesh. I will be getting a local tradesman in to do the 75mm screed.

I have seen various UFH information that talks about using an additive in
the screed. What screed mix should I be looking for i.e. sand/cement/grit
ratios and what type/where can I get the right additive for this
application?

Cheers

Steve..


Unless you need the wire mesh for structural reason it's MUCH easier to
use the red plastic stuff illustrated here

http://www.polypipe.com/POLYPIPE/pp_..._02-01-03.html

the pipes just clip in

Nick Brooks


Well, I did need the steel for structural reasons, and it took about
half a day to tie wrap the pipes to it. Loosely.

No special additive needed in the screed.

The plastic trays were a LOT more expensive than a day of my time to do
about 150 sq meters of floor. Even if you inlcuded the cost of the steel.

The only thing worth saying is that teh csreed was mixed in a cement
mixer, and teh variability from the oafs that mixed it caused some
problems. If its a big area, get a contractor in and readymix. ISTR it
was about 5:1 sand to cement and a pretty dry mix.

I did get some cracks where the job was not completed in a single day -
but I poured a lot of sligthtly diluted PVA down the cracks and in time
it set, shrank, and pulled it all back to one solid lump. Good trick.

In practivce it woorks superbly - UF and sreed. I did need to do a fair
bit of levelling afterwards tho. Screeders can seldom achieve the
necessary accuracy in the speed required.



Steve House April 1st 04 05:54 PM

UFH Screed & Additive Advice
 
I already have the steel mesh & the pipe I am using is 16x2 pe-xc/al/pe-xc
so it keeps its shape when bent. Those red plastic sheets are a bit
expensive!

"Nick Brooks" wrote in message
...
Steve House wrote:
Hi,

I am looking to install underfloor heating in a new build conservatory.

I
will be using 50mm Celotex insulation and UFH pipes attached to a steel
mesh. I will be getting a local tradesman in to do the 75mm screed.

I have seen various UFH information that talks about using an additive

in
the screed. What screed mix should I be looking for i.e.

sand/cement/grit
ratios and what type/where can I get the right additive for this
application?

Cheers

Steve..


Unless you need the wire mesh for structural reason it's MUCH easier to
use the red plastic stuff illustrated here

http://www.polypipe.com/POLYPIPE/pp_..._02-01-03.html

the pipes just clip in

Nick Brooks




Steve House April 3rd 04 06:19 PM

UFH Screed & Additive Advice
 
Does 4:1 sharp sand : portland cement with a plasticiser such as liquid
Febmix sound about right?

"Steve House" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am looking to install underfloor heating in a new build conservatory. I
will be using 50mm Celotex insulation and UFH pipes attached to a steel
mesh. I will be getting a local tradesman in to do the 75mm screed.

I have seen various UFH information that talks about using an additive in
the screed. What screed mix should I be looking for i.e. sand/cement/grit
ratios and what type/where can I get the right additive for this
application?

Cheers

Steve..





mark April 3rd 04 07:43 PM

UFH Screed & Additive Advice
 
In message anCbc.163$4Y4.8@newsfe1-win, Steve House
writes
Does 4:1 sharp sand : portland cement with a plasticiser such as liquid
Febmix sound about right?

"Steve House" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am looking to install underfloor heating in a new build conservatory. I
will be using 50mm Celotex insulation and UFH pipes attached to a steel
mesh. I will be getting a local tradesman in to do the 75mm screed.

I have seen various UFH information that talks about using an additive in
the screed. What screed mix should I be looking for i.e. sand/cement/grit
ratios and what type/where can I get the right additive for this
application?


We use 10 parts quarry dust, 2 parts plastering sand, 3 parts cement.
Mix with water gauged with mortar plasticiser so that squeezing the mix
hard in your fist hardly produces a drop of water.
If the mix is being hand screeded put it down in layers so that you can
compact the mix around the pipes and ensure that there are no voids.
Machine screeding is *much* easier and quicker.
Finish off the last layer by tamping and screeding. 3 to 4 hours later
you can walk on the mix to float it off with a wooden (plastic) float.
This should be fine for ceramic or quarry tiles once it has cured (could
take 12 weeks). Be patient.
For a smooth finish polish with a steel trowel.
Power float is *much* easier and quicker.
Lay down a plastic sheet to retard setting.

--
mark


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