D.I.Y. CU ..?
Hi all,
I recently bought (eBay, cheap) an old but unused, neat, little 8 way metalclad mini CU (the make looks like a squirly 'G E' ?) with the thought to using it in my workshop as a split CU (lights / ring). It came with an 80A 30mA RCD on what looks like a 'half rail' type mounting system (the module clips over the top of the rail and is held down onto / by the busbar). I was thinking for my 8 module spaces .. .. 2 module incomer switch 1 m 16A MCB (32A?) (radial to socket for welder or maybe lathe?) 1 m 6A MCB (lights) 2 m RCD 1 m 32A (ring) spare Now I know I could go out and buy something simple (the little 2 way RCD CU like I recently did for Dad's garage / workshop rewire) but once you go 'split' the prices seem to go up quite a lot and the boxes get much bigger (and I fancied 'playing') ;-) So, I can make some new busbars on the bandsaw (if needed) out of some suitable brass (?) sheet, once I know a std MCB will fit reasonably. I could even fabricate / machine the lower 'rail' from a strip of steel and fix it on to of the existing backplate to clip the modern modules onto? I've a new MK MCB spare somewhere so I'll see how it fits. I believe the construction of most CU's I've seen is pretty crude and as long as I abide by the current plan (split neutral etc) and as long as it's done sensibly it might make an interesting mini project (for a DIY'r) ;-) All the best .. T i m |
D.I.Y. CU ..?
So, I can make some new busbars on the bandsaw (if needed) out of
some suitable brass (?) sheet, once I know a std MCB will fit reasonably. You should be able to buy replacement DIN rails, if the amount supplied isn't enough. If you do have a full length one already, it can be simply cut in half to insert the RCD. Then you just need to sort out the neutrals. I don't know about the GE, but many have two neutral blocks with a link between. If so, you can simply remove the link and attach each side to the correct side of the RCD with suitable cable (i.e. 10mm). Alternatively, throw the RCD and use a non-split unit with an RCBO for the sockets. Christian. |
D.I.Y. CU ..?
In article ,
T i m writes: Hi all, I recently bought (eBay, cheap) an old but unused, neat, little 8 way metalclad mini CU (the make looks like a squirly 'G E' ?) with the thought to using it in my workshop as a split CU (lights / ring). It came with an 80A 30mA RCD on what looks like a 'half rail' type mounting system (the module clips over the top of the rail and is held down onto / by the busbar). I've not seen a GE CU, but what you describe sounds like Federal Electric -- it is designed so that MCB's can be added and removed without switching off the CU (although I don't think they actually advertise that feature). The breakers have a heafty clip which snaps into the busbar. I was thinking for my 8 module spaces .. .. 2 module incomer switch 1 m 16A MCB (32A?) (radial to socket for welder or maybe lathe?) 1 m 6A MCB (lights) 2 m RCD 1 m 32A (ring) spare Now I know I could go out and buy something simple (the little 2 way RCD CU like I recently did for Dad's garage / workshop rewire) but once you go 'split' the prices seem to go up quite a lot and the boxes get much bigger (and I fancied 'playing') ;-) So, I can make some new busbars on the bandsaw (if needed) out of some suitable brass (?) sheet, once I know a std MCB will fit reasonably. Don't start hacking around with the CU. Take it in to a few electrical wholesalers and see if they stock breakers for it, and if you can't get them, chuck it or use it for something else, or put it on eBay ;-). If it is compatible with Federal Electric breakers, some years back they increased the size of front panel cutout required for their breakers and it is generally acceptable to neatly cut the front panel of their older CU's to take their newer breakers. I could even fabricate / machine the lower 'rail' from a strip of steel and fix it on to of the existing backplate to clip the modern modules onto? I've a new MK MCB spare somewhere so I'll see how it fits. You can buy lengths of DIN rail easily (electrical wholesaler is one source). There are a few different sizes and a couple of standard heights, and it's cheap. However, I wouldn't hack around this way to create a CU. -- Andrew Gabriel |
D.I.Y. CU ..?
A Squirly 'GE' is the logo for 'General Electric' a company which has its
fingers in many pies. Anyway, you can probably find information on the product you have he http://www.geindustrial.com/cwc/products?famid=19 Thanks Seri "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , T i m writes: Hi all, I recently bought (eBay, cheap) an old but unused, neat, little 8 way metalclad mini CU (the make looks like a squirly 'G E' ?) with the thought to using it in my workshop as a split CU (lights / ring). It came with an 80A 30mA RCD on what looks like a 'half rail' type mounting system (the module clips over the top of the rail and is held down onto / by the busbar). I've not seen a GE CU, but what you describe sounds like Federal Electric -- it is designed so that MCB's can be added and removed without switching off the CU (although I don't think they actually advertise that feature). The breakers have a heafty clip which snaps into the busbar. I was thinking for my 8 module spaces .. .. 2 module incomer switch 1 m 16A MCB (32A?) (radial to socket for welder or maybe lathe?) 1 m 6A MCB (lights) 2 m RCD 1 m 32A (ring) spare Now I know I could go out and buy something simple (the little 2 way RCD CU like I recently did for Dad's garage / workshop rewire) but once you go 'split' the prices seem to go up quite a lot and the boxes get much bigger (and I fancied 'playing') ;-) So, I can make some new busbars on the bandsaw (if needed) out of some suitable brass (?) sheet, once I know a std MCB will fit reasonably. Don't start hacking around with the CU. Take it in to a few electrical wholesalers and see if they stock breakers for it, and if you can't get them, chuck it or use it for something else, or put it on eBay ;-). If it is compatible with Federal Electric breakers, some years back they increased the size of front panel cutout required for their breakers and it is generally acceptable to neatly cut the front panel of their older CU's to take their newer breakers. I could even fabricate / machine the lower 'rail' from a strip of steel and fix it on to of the existing backplate to clip the modern modules onto? I've a new MK MCB spare somewhere so I'll see how it fits. You can buy lengths of DIN rail easily (electrical wholesaler is one source). There are a few different sizes and a couple of standard heights, and it's cheap. However, I wouldn't hack around this way to create a CU. -- Andrew Gabriel |
D.I.Y. CU ..?
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D.I.Y. CU ..?
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D.I.Y. CU ..?
On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 08:51:12 +0100, in uk.d-i-y T i m
strung together this: So, I can make some new busbars on the bandsaw (if needed) out of some suitable brass (?) sheet, once I know a std MCB will fit reasonably. For what a new busbar costs, I'd buy a new one. I seem to think I posted some catalogue numbers for the Hager busbar, which will fit, in a previous thread of yours. I could even fabricate / machine the lower 'rail' from a strip of steel and fix it on to of the existing backplate to clip the modern modules onto? I've a new MK MCB spare somewhere so I'll see how it fits. Again, din rail is cheap enough to buy. Not worth messing about making your own. I believe the construction of most CU's I've seen is pretty crude and as long as I abide by the current plan (split neutral etc) and as long as it's done sensibly it might make an interesting mini project (for a DIY'r) ;-) If you really must, personally I don't think it's worth all the hassle. One thing to bear in mind, if you start making your own components the unit won't be to the relevant BS. Insurance companies like this because it can be their getout clause. -- SJW A.C.S. Ltd. |
D.I.Y. CU ..?
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D.I.Y. CU ..?
T i m wrote in message . ..
On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 09:34:25 GMT, (Lurch) wrote: 'Doing stuff up' can be both a pain and a pleasure. I found a cycle in a ditch (in a sorry state) when I was 12, handed it in to the Police station and 6 weeks later it was mine ;-) Four weeks after that I had rebuilt it and was cycling it around the South Downs with the School cycle club. My Mum and Dad *might* of bought me a bike if I had asked but I never thought to and got a lot of pleasure doing up then riding this one for the next 4 years. Then I bought a Moped off my school teacher for a fiver with a stripped spark plug .. repaired that and rode it for the next 8 months till I was given another moped (NSU 'Quickly') in a wheelbarrow ..... then there was the Messerschmitt and the Morris Minor van for 15 quid and another 5 quid for the gearbox I fitted at night, in the car-park, in the rain .. etc .. ;-) I find that by buying something that has been 'neglected' I learn much more about that thing when restoring it than anything I might buy new and running? I like doing stuff up too. Its much more satisfying, and one (sometimes) ends up with something of far better quality. And sometimes not. Certainly done a few memorable things along the way. p.s. What about the wooden, live and neutral fused CU I just took out of my Dad's workshop .. I don't suppose that had a BS stamp? both poles fused... BS1 maybe? BSes do go back a long way, lots of round pin stuff was BSed, BS415 IIRC. Regards, NT |
D.I.Y. CU ..?
T i m wrote in message . ..
Like this CU I was going to work on .. if you took the box off most CU's what would you get .. a bunch of MCB's / RCDS etc sliding up an down a tin rail where the electrical (stamped out) bus bar offers the greatest physical support between modules? A couple of strips of steel or brass with screw clamps to provide electrical connection for neutral / earth etc? Not exactly rocket science and if done neatly and with full regard to loadings (and using BS stamped components) what's the problem? Approval and liability. That unfortunately is the problem. Are you sure steel conductors would be OK? Regards, NT |
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