UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,159
Default regarding charging: follow-up

Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.

Bill
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 875
Default regarding charging: follow-up

williamwright pretended :
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C was too
high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords with
the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's voltmeter is
reading a bit high.

Bill


My caravans limited range analogue voltmeter is in the panel, by the
door - some way from the battery. It's reasonably accurate for an
analogue, but the daft part is that they have shared it's supply with
everything else - it measures across the main feed. Absolutely anything
you turn on, will cause voltage drop and the reading to decline
drastically. The only way to get a true reading, is with the main
isolator on, the rest of the isolators off and use a torch in the dark
to read it.
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 43,017
Default regarding charging: follow-up

In article ,
williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.


That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.

--
*I brake for no apparent reason.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,159
Default regarding charging: follow-up

On 28/04/2021 11:04, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.


That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.

But the charge rate is 0.01A

Bill
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,591
Default regarding charging: follow-up

On 28/04/2021 18:11, williamwright wrote:
On 28/04/2021 11:04, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.


That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.

But the charge rate is 0.01A


That suggests the battery is fully charged and the current is there to
offset the self-discharge current.


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 43,017
Default regarding charging: follow-up

In article ,
williamwright wrote:
On 28/04/2021 11:04, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.


That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.

But the charge rate is 0.01A


Assuming the ammeter is as good as the voltmeter? ;-)

--
*Speak softly and carry a cellular phone *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 478
Default regarding charging: follow-up

On 28/04/2021 11:04, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.


That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.


13.8v is a nominal fully charged lead acid battery. I have one or two
PSUs kicking around that output that voltage for powering kits that is
designed for lead acid accumulators from the mains.

It probably is a bit on the high side for a float charge. A silicon
diode in series and a 1k resistor in parallel might help.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 43,017
Default regarding charging: follow-up

In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
On 28/04/2021 11:04, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.


That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.


13.8v is a nominal fully charged lead acid battery. I have one or two
PSUs kicking around that output that voltage for powering kits that is
designed for lead acid accumulators from the mains.


13.8v is the standard for a car, engine running. So tends to be the output
of a PS designed to be used with things like a car radio, etc. A fully
charged battery, left to settle, is under 13v.

It probably is a bit on the high side for a float charge. A silicon
diode in series and a 1k resistor in parallel might help.


--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,019
Default regarding charging: follow-up

On 01/05/2021 11:59, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
On 28/04/2021 11:04, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
williamwright wrote:
Following the suggestion here that the charging voltage for Circuit C
was too high
("C: 14.6V, +0.01A")
I checked with an accurate meter. The voltage was 13.86V. That accords
with the very low residual charge rate. As I suspected, the van's
voltmeter is reading a bit high.

That's still high for a float charge. Should be more like 13v.


13.8v is a nominal fully charged lead acid battery. I have one or two
PSUs kicking around that output that voltage for powering kits that is
designed for lead acid accumulators from the mains.


13.8v is the standard for a car, engine running. So tends to be the output
of a PS designed to be used with things like a car radio, etc. A fully
charged battery, left to settle, is under 13v.

It probably is a bit on the high side for a float charge. A silicon
diode in series and a 1k resistor in parallel might help.


For most people, car engines don't run for much of the time. They do
need to top up the starter drain reliably, it's not really a float
charge regime.
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 43,017
Default regarding charging: follow-up

In article ,
newshound wrote:
For most people, car engines don't run for much of the time. They do
need to top up the starter drain reliably, it's not really a float
charge regime.


Quite. A car is unlikely to run continuously for more than a few hours.
Given the driver will want a comfort break of some sort, or indeed fuel.

A float charger could be running for weeks on end.

--
*Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,491
Default regarding charging: follow-up

On Sun, 02 May 2021 15:38:28 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
newshound wrote:
For most people, car engines don't run for much of the time. They do
need to top up the starter drain reliably, it's not really a float
charge regime.


Quite. A car is unlikely to run continuously for more than a few hours.
Given the driver will want a comfort break of some sort, or indeed fuel.

A float charger could be running for weeks on end.


How about months on end? As I mentioned in a previous post, car
batteries are no substitute for the SLAs specified for UPSes. I learnt
this the hard way a few years back when the first set (luckily only a 60
quid investment on a set of four 36AH NOS SLIs bought from my local car
parts/breaker supplier) failed after just 6 or 7 months of being kept at
a float charge voltage of 13.8v.

Rather stupidly, I chanced yet another 60 quid's worth with pretty much
the same result before the lesson was finally learnt. :-(

I had Ass U Med that the much gentler operating conditions in UPS
service would extend the service life of SLI class batteries. Oh, just
how wrong can one be? Well, in this case, VERY wrong!

To use an anthropomorphic analogy, SLI lead acid batteries could best be
described as having a masochistic character. They positively thrive under
the sadomasochistic regime of automotive use where they're not only
subjected to a few hundred amps of abuse from the starter motor load but
also suffer the various acceleration forces throughout a typical journey
which they crave in order to keep the electrolyte nicely stirred up to
keep electrolyte stratification at bay, all of which is absent in UPS
service.

It turns out that my UPS was killing them with an excess of 'kindness'.
Who'd have guessed? Well, more to the point, who'd have guessed that car
batteries had been SO optimised for SLI service as to make them so
incredibly unsuited to the gentler routine of UPS service? Well, I don't
have to guess any more - I now _KNOW_ (and it has only cost me a mere 120
quid for that knowledge).

I did briefly toy with the idea of using yet a third set of SLIs but on
a reduced to 13.5v float charge setting but, considering the other need
to avoid stratification of the electrolyte, decided against running this
experiment.

I've since come to realise that LFP batteries are a far better fit for
this task than the SLA battery technology in current universal use with
UPSes. However, I'm still considering the best way to make such a long
term investment in something that'll outlast not only the UPS itself but
also my remaining lifetime.

--
Johnny B Good
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Regarding charging (batteries, not customers) williamwright UK diy 20 April 27th 21 03:52 PM
Follow up question from the EV charging thread.... this time to dowith earthing to outbuildings No Name UK diy 12 August 4th 20 10:35 PM
Solar panel charging 12V battery - prevent over charging David UK diy 4 June 22nd 18 09:23 PM
Questions regarding shower installation... BigWallop UK diy 1 September 6th 03 07:40 PM
Question regarding adding an extra socket to the ring main Fiona Reid UK diy 10 September 3rd 03 04:45 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:17 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"