I have read dozens of posts regarding worktop joining, but none seem to
address my specific problem. Hope there's an expert here that can!

I have to fit this 90 degree corner sink into a 600mm benchtop:
http://www.trade-appliances.co.uk/_4...co_ALA403.html

I have acquired all the kit:
Jig & pegs (£32 on ebay), Pro quality 1800W 1/2 router with 30mm guide
plate (£15 for the w/e from local hire shop) , new 1/2 x 2" router bits (£15
B&Q).
I have managed to complete everything else in this raised floor U shaped
kitchen, so I'm game to have a go at this. (With a bit of practise on the
old worktops!)

Question is how do I do the join that has to locate under the sink?
A 45 degree cut will give me plenty of room for a couple of worktop bolts in
the middle and back, but leave the joint at the from with no fixing, except
maybe a biscuit.

A 90 cut gives me just enough worktop left to fit a front and rear bolt but
it will be only sitting in the 50mm of bench in front and behind the sink.

Whatever I do it looks like I'm going to have a largely unsupported joint
right under the sink! A recipe for failure and swelling me thinks. Any
better ideas or tips?

While I'm at it, in the other corner, I have an option of a 90 or 45 joint
in a uninterupted bench run around a corner. Is there any advantage to one
over the other? (except I guess less router bit wear on a 90)

Finally, are bicuits essential or can you just use bolts? (Otherwise I need
to go back to B&Q for biscuit router bit)

Thanks
Steve

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:02:53 +0000 (UTC), "Yebligs"
wrote:

I have read dozens of posts regarding worktop joining, but none seem to
address my specific problem. Hope there's an expert here that can!

I have to fit this 90 degree corner sink into a 600mm benchtop:
http://www.trade-appliances.co.uk/_4...co_ALA403.html

I have acquired all the kit:
Jig & pegs (£32 on ebay), Pro quality 1800W 1/2 router with 30mm guide
plate (£15 for the w/e from local hire shop) , new 1/2 x 2" router bits (£15
B&Q).
I have managed to complete everything else in this raised floor U shaped
kitchen, so I'm game to have a go at this. (With a bit of practise on the
old worktops!)

Question is how do I do the join that has to locate under the sink?
A 45 degree cut will give me plenty of room for a couple of worktop bolts in
the middle and back, but leave the joint at the from with no fixing, except
maybe a biscuit.

A 90 cut gives me just enough worktop left to fit a front and rear bolt but
it will be only sitting in the 50mm of bench in front and behind the sink.

Whatever I do it looks like I'm going to have a largely unsupported joint
right under the sink! A recipe for failure and swelling me thinks. Any
better ideas or tips?

I think that you will need to sketch it out on graph paper and see
which arrangement gives the longer joint. The sink is a strange
shape once the small bowl is taken into consideration.



While I'm at it, in the other corner, I have an option of a 90 or 45 joint
in a uninterupted bench run around a corner. Is there any advantage to one
over the other? (except I guess less router bit wear on a 90)

The normal ways are to use a postform jig with a routerr and to cut
either a 90 degree joint or two 22.5 degree joints and then have a
piece of worktop across the corner effectively at 45 degrees.

This is typically used for a sink or sometimes a hob, but I don't
think that the sink that you have would work in this way.



Finally, are bicuits essential or can you just use bolts? (Otherwise I need
to go back to B&Q for biscuit router bit)

Especially in the sink area where you don't have much material.

Biscuits will prevent vertical movement of the worktops relative to
one another while allowing a little horizontal movement for alignment.
Bolts will pull the joint together but don't prevent vertical or
horizontal movement of some amount.

I would definitely use biscuits and bolts,




Thanks
Steve


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message


On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:02:53 +0000 (UTC), "Yebligs"
wrote:

I have to fit this 90 degree corner sink into a 600mm benchtop:
http://www.trade-appliances.co.uk/_4...co_ALA403.html

Question is how do I do the join that has to locate under the sink?
A 45 degree cut will give me plenty of room for a couple of worktop bolts in
the middle and back, but leave the joint at the from with no fixing, except
maybe a biscuit.

I think that you will need to sketch it out on graph paper and see
which arrangement gives the longer joint. The sink is a strange
shape once the small bowl is taken into consideration.

I think what he needs to do is form the corner out of three work-tops.
The corner will be a pentagon with a 90 degree angle. Difficult to see
how the board that goes in the corner can be wide enough.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 22:52:44 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message


On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:02:53 +0000 (UTC), "Yebligs"
wrote:

I have to fit this 90 degree corner sink into a 600mm benchtop:
http://www.trade-appliances.co.uk/_4...co_ALA403.html

Question is how do I do the join that has to locate under the sink?
A 45 degree cut will give me plenty of room for a couple of worktop bolts in
the middle and back, but leave the joint at the from with no fixing, except
maybe a biscuit.

I think that you will need to sketch it out on graph paper and see
which arrangement gives the longer joint. The sink is a strange
shape once the small bowl is taken into consideration.

I think what he needs to do is form the corner out of three work-tops.
The corner will be a pentagon with a 90 degree angle. Difficult to see
how the board that goes in the corner can be wide enough.

You can do this with a worktop jig.

If the piece across the corner comes to a point at the front, then I
am pretty sure that it will be a quadrilateral, but that would only be
the case if the corner piece could be formed out of a deeper piece of
worktop. Otherwise, with worktop of the same depth as the main
runs, there will be a triangle missing in the back corner.

I had to do an exercise like this not long ago for a built in desk
that I put in my study. I made it from runs of block laminated
hardwood worktop of standard 600mm depth. I wanted a sitting
position in the corner where I could put a large 53cm monitor with
keyboard etc in front.
To fit this in required a run of worktop at a 45 degree angle across
the corner.
I cut the pieces using a worktop jig and router, but this left a
triangle missing from the rear corner. To address this, I cut
across the back corner with the router precisely along the edge of a
block. I then cut out a triangle to make up the shape and end up
with a point at the back. This was then glued and biscuit jointed
together and clamped. The result is invisible as compared with the
normal blocks. This gave me an non-regular but symmetrical hexagon
which could then be fixed into place.

A similar technique could be used here except that the sink is a
direct right-angle and not designed for this arrangement.
If there were enough space, another solution for a corner sink is
something like

http://www.franke.co.uk/prods.asp?prodid=7&pid=1&rtid=1

(PAX 652-E)

This has the advantage that you can stand squarely at it, but lacks
the amount of draining area of something like

http://www.franke.co.uk/prods.asp?prodid=6&pid=1&rtid=1

(STX 621-E)

(similar to the OP's sink).



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

I'm a bit concerned that doing a triangle is just going to give me 2 joins
under the sink to swell and split, rather than one.

Although this would definitely be the best for the sinks you suggest, we've
bought this one already!

I think can do a 90 join that will be under the least used bowl and I can
still get a connecting bolt in at the front and back. If I can get a biscuit
in too I'll be very happy.

I'll have to be very conscientious about sealing the ends. What's best,
silicon or waterproof PVA? Most people seem to suggest silicon, but I'd have
thought the PVA would seal in deeper?

Thanks for your help,

Steve


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 22:52:44 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message


On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:02:53 +0000 (UTC), "Yebligs"
wrote:

I have to fit this 90 degree corner sink into a 600mm benchtop:
http://www.trade-appliances.co.uk/_4...co_ALA403.html

Question is how do I do the join that has to locate under the sink?
A 45 degree cut will give me plenty of room for a couple of worktop
bolts in
the middle and back, but leave the joint at the from with no fixing,
except
maybe a biscuit.

I think that you will need to sketch it out on graph paper and see
which arrangement gives the longer joint. The sink is a strange
shape once the small bowl is taken into consideration.

I think what he needs to do is form the corner out of three work-tops.
The corner will be a pentagon with a 90 degree angle. Difficult to see
how the board that goes in the corner can be wide enough.

You can do this with a worktop jig.

If the piece across the corner comes to a point at the front, then I
am pretty sure that it will be a quadrilateral, but that would only be
the case if the corner piece could be formed out of a deeper piece of
worktop. Otherwise, with worktop of the same depth as the main
runs, there will be a triangle missing in the back corner.

I had to do an exercise like this not long ago for a built in desk
that I put in my study. I made it from runs of block laminated
hardwood worktop of standard 600mm depth. I wanted a sitting
position in the corner where I could put a large 53cm monitor with
keyboard etc in front.
To fit this in required a run of worktop at a 45 degree angle across
the corner.
I cut the pieces using a worktop jig and router, but this left a
triangle missing from the rear corner. To address this, I cut
across the back corner with the router precisely along the edge of a
block. I then cut out a triangle to make up the shape and end up
with a point at the back. This was then glued and biscuit jointed
together and clamped. The result is invisible as compared with the
normal blocks. This gave me an non-regular but symmetrical hexagon
which could then be fixed into place.

A similar technique could be used here except that the sink is a
direct right-angle and not designed for this arrangement.
If there were enough space, another solution for a corner sink is
something like

http://www.franke.co.uk/prods.asp?prodid=7&pid=1&rtid=1

(PAX 652-E)

This has the advantage that you can stand squarely at it, but lacks
the amount of draining area of something like

http://www.franke.co.uk/prods.asp?prodid=6&pid=1&rtid=1

(STX 621-E)

(similar to the OP's sink).



.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 1 Sep 2004 07:37:11 +0000 (UTC), "Yebligs"
wrote:

I'm a bit concerned that doing a triangle is just going to give me 2 joins
under the sink to swell and split, rather than one.

Although this would definitely be the best for the sinks you suggest, we've
bought this one already!

I think can do a 90 join that will be under the least used bowl and I can
still get a connecting bolt in at the front and back. If I can get a biscuit
in too I'll be very happy.


Given the situation, I think it is probably best to go for whichever
combination gives the most mechanical strength.


I'll have to be very conscientious about sealing the ends. What's best,
silicon or waterproof PVA? Most people seem to suggest silicon, but I'd have
thought the PVA would seal in deeper?

I would use silicone. It has some elasticity to deal with any tiny
movements in the worktops.



Thanks for your help,

Steve


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 22:52:44 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message


On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:02:53 +0000 (UTC), "Yebligs"
wrote:

I have to fit this 90 degree corner sink into a 600mm benchtop:
http://www.trade-appliances.co.uk/_4...co_ALA403.html

Question is how do I do the join that has to locate under the sink?
A 45 degree cut will give me plenty of room for a couple of worktop
bolts in
the middle and back, but leave the joint at the from with no fixing,
except
maybe a biscuit.

I think that you will need to sketch it out on graph paper and see
which arrangement gives the longer joint. The sink is a strange
shape once the small bowl is taken into consideration.

I think what he needs to do is form the corner out of three work-tops.
The corner will be a pentagon with a 90 degree angle. Difficult to see
how the board that goes in the corner can be wide enough.

You can do this with a worktop jig.

If the piece across the corner comes to a point at the front, then I
am pretty sure that it will be a quadrilateral, but that would only be
the case if the corner piece could be formed out of a deeper piece of
worktop. Otherwise, with worktop of the same depth as the main
runs, there will be a triangle missing in the back corner.

I had to do an exercise like this not long ago for a built in desk
that I put in my study. I made it from runs of block laminated
hardwood worktop of standard 600mm depth. I wanted a sitting
position in the corner where I could put a large 53cm monitor with
keyboard etc in front.
To fit this in required a run of worktop at a 45 degree angle across
the corner.
I cut the pieces using a worktop jig and router, but this left a
triangle missing from the rear corner. To address this, I cut
across the back corner with the router precisely along the edge of a
block. I then cut out a triangle to make up the shape and end up
with a point at the back. This was then glued and biscuit jointed
together and clamped. The result is invisible as compared with the
normal blocks. This gave me an non-regular but symmetrical hexagon
which could then be fixed into place.

A similar technique could be used here except that the sink is a
direct right-angle and not designed for this arrangement.
If there were enough space, another solution for a corner sink is
something like

http://www.franke.co.uk/prods.asp?prodid=7&pid=1&rtid=1

(PAX 652-E)

This has the advantage that you can stand squarely at it, but lacks
the amount of draining area of something like

http://www.franke.co.uk/prods.asp?prodid=6&pid=1&rtid=1

(STX 621-E)

(similar to the OP's sink).



.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl