Cooker connection -
 

Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm"
(=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate
and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make
a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.

Cheers,

Tim

Cooker connection -
 

On 29/01/2020 14:23, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm"
(=35C)

That's what I have normally done (I forget the rating of my current
oven). Although ambient temperature can be high, it is relatively
accessible and easy to replace if it does degrade.



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate
and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make
a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.

Cheers,

Tim

Cooker connection -
 

Many many years ago, I wired up €œcooker€� to the cooker side of a cooker & 13A socket affair. It was in a council house and €œthey€� had installed the cooker switch and then there was a very beefy cable outlet behind the cooker.

My €œcooker€� just required a 13A socket for its spark doobry and clock.

I was surprised to find the outlet behind the cooker
(Basically a back box, a hefty brass 3 pole in insulated chock block and a cover). Had no wire coming down from the switch unit.

From memory, I took a thin gauge flex from the cooker switch down the conduit to the connector and past the chunky choc bloc and wired straight into a surface mount 13A socket.

You could use chunky T&E down to the choc bloc (assuming these accessories are still sold) and then
Your 15mm dia stuff from there.

Cheers

Chris

Cooker connection -
 

On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm"
(=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate
and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make
a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.




You're not likely to have everything on at once anyway.

Cooker connection -
 

On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.

Some kind soul wired my cooker point in 16mm2 cable.

Scolmore PRW217 45A says suitable for 10mm2 cable. Scolmore PRW218 is the surface pattress box if you need it.

Owain

Cooker connection -
 

On 29/01/2020 17:26, wrote:
On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.

Some kind soul wired my cooker point in 16mm2 cable.

Mine is in 16mm2 when I re-wired the house, I was given 25m of it for free.

One of my jobs in the next few weeks is to move it to the other side of
the kitchen - which I am not looking forward to.

Steve

Cooker connection -
 

On 29/01/2020 16:43, harry wrote:
On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm"
(=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate
and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make
a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.




You're not likely to have everything on at once anyway.


Some hobs have a "feature" where you can restrict the maximum load
presented to match the capability of the supply, so permitting the use
of a lower rated cable, provided the MCB/RCBO is dimensioned to suit the
cable.

Cooker connection -
 

On 29/01/2020 17:26, wrote:
Scolmore PRW218

That's pretty chunky - thank you :)

Cooker connection -
 

On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm"
(=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate
and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make
a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.

Cheers,

Tim

Look up 'diversity', you don't need anywhere near 15mm2.


NT

Cooker connection -
 

On 30/01/2020 13:47, wrote:
On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm"
(=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate
and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make
a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.

Cheers,

Tim

Look up 'diversity', you don't need anywhere near 15mm2.


15mm is the /external/ diameter of the 6mm cable in mind for a 45A
supply; and I'd be wary of anything less than a 45A circuit without
knowing more about the cooker and the cook's habits. Some of the
all-electric stoves with induction hobs are heading for 20kW these days.
And I'm also minded to have some regard to the maker's instructions.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Cooker connection -
 

In article , Robin
wrote:
On 30/01/2020 13:47, wrote:
On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be
"warm" (=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the
plate and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to
make a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox
edges.

Cheers,

Tim

Look up 'diversity', you don't need anywhere near 15mm2.


15mm is the /external/ diameter of the 6mm cable in mind for a 45A
supply; and I'd be wary of anything less than a 45A circuit without
knowing more about the cooker and the cook's habits. Some of the
all-electric stoves with induction hobs are heading for 20kW these days.
And I'm also minded to have some regard to the maker's instructions.

Cable is measured by conductor size, not outside diameter. When you say
15mm, electricians think of 76A rated cable.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Cooker connection -
 

On 30/01/2020 17:39, charles wrote:
In article , Robin
wrote:
On 30/01/2020 13:47, wrote:
On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 14:23:45 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the
"done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a
freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,
10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be
"warm" (=35C)



2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to
higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm
dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal,
because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.



If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the
manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the
plate and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing
directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to
make a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox
edges.

Cheers,

Tim

Look up 'diversity', you don't need anywhere near 15mm2.


15mm is the /external/ diameter of the 6mm cable in mind for a 45A
supply; and I'd be wary of anything less than a 45A circuit without
knowing more about the cooker and the cook's habits. Some of the
all-electric stoves with induction hobs are heading for 20kW these days.
And I'm also minded to have some regard to the maker's instructions.

Cable is measured by conductor size, not outside diameter. When you say
15mm, electricians think of 76A rated cable.


The only reference to 15mm was in "a big fat 15mm dia rubber cable"
which seems to be both fair and unambiguous when the OP was looking for
a suitable cable outlet.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Cooker connection -
 

On 30/01/2020 13:47, wrote:

Look up 'diversity', you don't need anywhere near 15mm2.


NT


6mm2, 15mm diameter...

Cooker connection -
 

On 30/01/2020 17:39, charles wrote:

Cable is measured by conductor size, not outside diameter. When you say
15mm, electricians think of 76A rated cable.


Yes I know that.

However 15mm OD is the major factor when it comes to "will it fit in
this cooker connection plate" as the latter are deisgned with flat cable
in mind