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Default self centring drill bits

Can anyone recommend, by name, a good quality set of these bits. I've got two different lots, one from Amazon and one from Fleabay and they are both dire. Ebay ones are anything but self centreing and the Amazon one had short bits in some of them which could not be adjusted satisfactorily

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fred wrote:

Can anyone recommend, by name, a good quality set of these bits. I've
got two different lots, one from Amazon and one from Fleabay and they
are both dire.


Yeah, I've got some cheap'n'nasty ones, clog very easily, maybe for
branded ones, try Bosch or Trend?

https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/boschtools-ocs/clic-change-bit-system-cc2430-28765-p

https://www.trenddirectuk.com/snap-dbg-a-snappy-drill-bit-guide-5pc-set-1-4-hex-shank


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On Mon, 23 Dec 2019 08:21:21 -0800 (PST), fred
wrote:

Can anyone recommend, by name, a good quality set of these bits. I've got two different lots, one from Amazon and one from Fleabay and they are both dire. Ebay ones are anything but self centreing and the Amazon one had short bits in some of them which could not be adjusted satisfactorily


Not sure in what respect you mean. Once a drill bit is sharpened it's
never quite the same again. The most noticable thing is the holes you
drill are slightly larger than when the bit is new (assuming it's been
made to a decent standard in the first place!)
Are you saying the apex point of the drill is not central wrt the
shank? Or that it is central but the chuck can't centre it up as it
should for whatever reason?

--

"When constituencies are small their elected representatives must concern themselves with
the local interests of their constituents. When political representatives are distant and
faceless, on the other hand, and represent vast numbers of unknown constituents, they
represent not their constituents, but special interest groups whose lobbyists are numerous
and ever present. Typically in Europe a technocrat is an ex-politician or a civil servant.
He is unelected, virtually impossible to dislodge during his term of employment and has
been granted extensive executive and even legislative power without popular mandate and
without being directly answerable to the people whose interests he falsely purports to
represent."

- Sir James Goldsmith (Member of the European Parliament) 1933 - 1997
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Cursitor Doom wrote:

Not sure in what respect you mean


I assume he meant 'vix bits'
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On 24/12/2019 14:16, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Once a drill bit is sharpened it's
never quite the same again.


It may be soi for you, but people who did this regaularly could often
make them as good as, or better, than original.

However these days the labour cost is many times the cost of a new drill
so one doesn't sharpen.


--
Renewable energy: Expensive solutions that don't work to a problem that
doesn't exist instituted by self legalising protection rackets that
don't protect, masquerading as public servants who don't serve the public.



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"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Cursitor Doom wrote:

Not sure in what respect you mean


I assume he meant 'vix bits'


They look an excellent invention, and one which is very simple in design and
concept. I presume the conical tip means that they will work with a range of
sizes of holes in hinges: the cone finds its own level and is then centred.

Now we need a device which prevents a masonry drill wandering all over the
place. I measure accurately and drill a pilot hole with a small drill whose
tip is on the mark I've made. Then I use a drill that is the size of the
Rawlplug. But the resulting hole, once the Rawlplug is in place, may be a
couple of mm adrift, which makes it very difficult to get two holes that are
at the same height so the object that I am attaching may not be level.

I take the lazy way out and attach a thin wooden batten and then drill the
accurate holes in the wood and fasten the object to that rather than the
wall.

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On Tuesday, 24 December 2019 16:27:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 24/12/2019 14:16, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Once a drill bit is sharpened it's
never quite the same again.


It may be soi for you, but people who did this regaularly could often
make them as good as, or better, than original.


they're the same if you grind them the same, better if you grind them better, worse if you don't do it right. Drill bit grinding is odd in that some people have no trouble doing it, some never can.


However these days the labour cost is many times the cost of a new drill
so one doesn't sharpen.


IME I can grind a whole pile in 5-10 minutes, and make them better then new.

With small bits, 3mm & under, geometry ceases to be of much importance for wood drilling, almost anything works. Anyone who's no good at regrinding could start on small ones.


NT
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On Tue, 24 Dec 2019 13:12:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 24 December 2019 16:27:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 24/12/2019 14:16, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Once a drill bit is sharpened it's
never quite the same again.


It may be soi for you, but people who did this regaularly could often
make them as good as, or better, than original.


they're the same if you grind them the same, better if you grind them better, worse if you don't do it right. Drill bit grinding is odd in that some people have no trouble doing it, some never can.


However these days the labour cost is many times the cost of a new drill
so one doesn't sharpen.


IME I can grind a whole pile in 5-10 minutes, and make them better then new.


That's quite a claim. How have you checked them? You would need to be
able to establish that the hole you have drilled with your sharpened
bit is no larger than that made by a new drill and has clean edges for
which some 30x magnification would be required.
Decades ago in aircraft and spacecraft construction, the manufacturers
would never sharpen worn drills; they'd all be flogged off wholesale
purely for the fact that once sharpened, the holes they made were
often no longer within the tight spec demanded. And I'm talking about
very expensive made-in-England HSS twist drills, none of your Chinese
rubbish.
--

"When constituencies are small their elected representatives must concern themselves with
the local interests of their constituents. When political representatives are distant and
faceless, on the other hand, and represent vast numbers of unknown constituents, they
represent not their constituents, but special interest groups whose lobbyists are numerous
and ever present. Typically in Europe a technocrat is an ex-politician or a civil servant.
He is unelected, virtually impossible to dislodge during his term of employment and has
been granted extensive executive and even legislative power without popular mandate and
without being directly answerable to the people whose interests he falsely purports to
represent."

- Sir James Goldsmith (Member of the European Parliament) 1933 - 1997
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On Wednesday, 25 December 2019 10:59:24 UTC, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Tue, 24 Dec 2019 13:12:01 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 24 December 2019 16:27:28 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 24/12/2019 14:16, Cursitor Doom wrote:


Once a drill bit is sharpened it's
never quite the same again.

It may be soi for you, but people who did this regaularly could often
make them as good as, or better, than original.


they're the same if you grind them the same, better if you grind them better, worse if you don't do it right. Drill bit grinding is odd in that some people have no trouble doing it, some never can.


However these days the labour cost is many times the cost of a new drill
so one doesn't sharpen.


IME I can grind a whole pile in 5-10 minutes, and make them better then new.


That's quite a claim. How have you checked them?


By looking at the tips & using them.

You would need to be
able to establish that the hole you have drilled with your sharpened
bit is no larger than that made by a new drill and has clean edges for
which some 30x magnification would be required.


Lol, for drilling holes in wood I need no such checks. You only get oversize holes if you haven't centred the grind or have majorly messed up the geometry.

Decades ago in aircraft and spacecraft construction, the manufacturers
would never sharpen worn drills; they'd all be flogged off wholesale
purely for the fact that once sharpened, the holes they made were
often no longer within the tight spec demanded. And I'm talking about
very expensive made-in-England HSS twist drills, none of your Chinese
rubbish.


Sure, but I'm not building aircraft or spaceships, I'm making holes in wood. Steel is fussier but still pretty straightforwadrd. With wood you can take huge liberties if you wish.


NT
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On Tuesday, December 24, 2019 at 4:33:06 PM UTC, NY wrote:
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Cursitor Doom wrote:

Not sure in what respect you mean


I assume he meant 'vix bits'


They look an excellent invention, and one which is very simple in design and
concept. I presume the conical tip means that they will work with a range of
sizes of holes in hinges: the cone finds its own level and is then centred.

Now we need a device which prevents a masonry drill wandering all over the
place. I measure accurately and drill a pilot hole with a small drill whose
tip is on the mark I've made. Then I use a drill that is the size of the
Rawlplug. But the resulting hole, once the Rawlplug is in place, may be a
couple of mm adrift, which makes it very difficult to get two holes that are
at the same height so the object that I am attaching may not be level.

I take the lazy way out and attach a thin wooden batten and then drill the
accurate holes in the wood and fasten the object to that rather than the
wall.


A tip for starting an sds drill is to start the hole while in normal drill mode, When an indent has been made switch to sds mode
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On 26/12/2019 16:11, fred wrote:
On Tuesday, December 24, 2019 at 4:33:06 PM UTC, NY wrote:
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Cursitor Doom wrote:

Not sure in what respect you mean

I assume he meant 'vix bits'


They look an excellent invention, and one which is very simple in design and
concept. I presume the conical tip means that they will work with a range of
sizes of holes in hinges: the cone finds its own level and is then centred.

Now we need a device which prevents a masonry drill wandering all over the
place. I measure accurately and drill a pilot hole with a small drill whose
tip is on the mark I've made. Then I use a drill that is the size of the
Rawlplug. But the resulting hole, once the Rawlplug is in place, may be a
couple of mm adrift, which makes it very difficult to get two holes that are
at the same height so the object that I am attaching may not be level.

I take the lazy way out and attach a thin wooden batten and then drill the
accurate holes in the wood and fasten the object to that rather than the
wall.


A tip for starting an sds drill is to start the hole while in normal drill mode, When an indent has been made switch to sds mode

I use the rotationstop position to start in plaster.
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