My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

MM used his keyboard to write :
Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

I don't get it, or the logic?

Unless there is a call for CH, then a spring return 3-port valve will
always return back to the HW position, which is the reason they suffer
so much wear - constant back and fourth motion. They need to be powered
by the call for CH, to be moved away from the default HW position.

A momo 3-port valve actuator is much better is this respect, they
default to staying put to match the last call for CH or HW. momo =
motor on/ motor off, no springs involved, hence much less wear, much
less movement of the valve.

On 12/12/2019 09:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
A momo 3-port valve actuator is much better is this respect, they
default to staying put to match the last call for CH or HW. momo = motor
on/ motor off, no springs involved, hence much less wear, much less
movement of the valve.

In the same way that te correct place to leave a toilet seat is where
ypu put it to use it.

That way there is a 50% chance of it being in the right place for the
next person.

--
"Anyone who believes that the laws of physics are mere social
conventions is invited to try transgressing those conventions from the
windows of my apartment. (I live on the twenty-first floor.) "

Alan Sokal

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 12/12/2019 09:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
A momo 3-port valve actuator is much better is this respect, they
default to staying put to match the last call for CH or HW. momo =
motor on/ motor off, no springs involved, hence much less wear, much
less movement of the valve.

In the same way that te correct place to leave a toilet seat is where
ypu put it to use it.

That way there is a 50% chance of it being in the right place for the
next person.

I beg to differ. If the next user is male, he may require the seat up or
down depending on need:-)


--
Tim Lamb

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 12/12/2019 09:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
A momo 3-port valve actuator is much better is this respect, they
default to staying put to match the last call for CH or HW. momo =
motor on/ motor off, no springs involved, hence much less wear, much
less movement of the valve.

In the same way that te correct place to leave a toilet seat is where
ypu put it to use it.

That way there is a 50% chance of it being in the right place for the
next person.

I beg to differ. If the next user is male, he may require the seat up
or down depending on need:-)

Someone who knows more about statistics than I may chip in but, after
writing the above, I wondered if the sex of the next user did really
make anything different.



--
Tim Lamb

On 12/12/2019 09:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
MM used his keyboard to write :
Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

I don't get it, or the logic?

Unless there is a call for CH, then a spring return 3-port valve will
always return back to the HW position, which is the reason they suffer
so much wear - constant back and fourth motion. They need to be powered
by the call for CH, to be moved away from the default HW position.

One common cause of failure is that of the motor - and that can be a
separate issue from wear on the mechanics.

If you look at the "normal" Y-Plan circuit:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/..._return_valves

Imagine the the programmer has DHW "off" (i.e. the "HW off" output is
live and the "HW on" one is not), and it and the stat are both calling
for heat on the CH. The valve will move to position A or "CH only", and
both microswitches will be closed (they are both open in the port B or
spring return default position). The room stat now, reaches set point
and opens. So there is no call for heat from either CH or DHW. However
because SW1 is in the position where the grey wire is connected to the
motor, and the wire is live because "HW off" is live, the motor will
remain powered, and the valve will stay in position A.

Should the programmer demand DHW now (even if the cylinder stat is still
satisfied), "HW Off" will go low, and power will be removed from the
motor - and that will allow it to spring return to the B position.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 12/12/2019 09:16, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

That's because with all demands satisfied, the grey control wire to the
valve is left live. However that is only connected to the motor via one
of the microswitches which are activated either side of the mid position
of the valve. Hence if the valve was in the heating or heating + hot
water state, when the system enters the "all done" state, then it will
remain connected to power - and be driven to the heating only state
where it will sit, with the motor under power but stalled until the next
demand for heat.

If the last state of operation was DHW only, then the valve will be in
its unenergised state with the spring pulling it back to the DHW only
position. Since neither microswitch will be activated in this position,
the live grey wire will not be connected to the motor, and it will now
rest in the unpowered state.

There is a control circuit mod that you can do to "fix" this:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Y_plan_circuit



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 09:59:22 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On 12/12/2019 09:16, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

That's because with all demands satisfied, the grey control wire to the
valve is left live. However that is only connected to the motor via one
of the microswitches which are activated either side of the mid position
of the valve. Hence if the valve was in the heating or heating + hot
water state, when the system enters the "all done" state, then it will
remain connected to power - and be driven to the heating only state
where it will sit, with the motor under power but stalled until the next
demand for heat.

If the last state of operation was DHW only, then the valve will be in
its unenergised state with the spring pulling it back to the DHW only
position. Since neither microswitch will be activated in this position,
the live grey wire will not be connected to the motor, and it will now
rest in the unpowered state.

There is a control circuit mod that you can do to "fix" this:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Y_plan_circuit

Very interesting, thanks!

MM

On 12/12/2019 09:16, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM


I would have thought that 15 years was quite a good life span. The
motors of my momo valves did not last that long.


--
Michael Chare

Michael Chare explained on 12/12/2019 :
I would have thought that 15 years was quite a good life span.

Exceptional longevity! Mine tended to last 18 months to three years.

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 17:28:25 GMT, Harry Bloomfield, Esq.
wrote:

Michael Chare explained on 12/12/2019 :
I would have thought that 15 years was quite a good life span.

Exceptional longevity! Mine tended to last 18 months to three years.

My neighbour, whose house is identical, has had three replaced in the
15 years. Must be the way I've used the heating that's kept mine
working all this time.

MM

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 17:28:25 GMT, Harry Bloomfield, Esq.
wrote:

Michael Chare explained on 12/12/2019 :
I would have thought that 15 years was quite a good life span.

Exceptional longevity! Mine tended to last 18 months to three years.

My neighbour, whose house is identical, has had three replaced in the
15 years. Must be the way I've used the heating that's kept mine
working all this time.

MM

My pair of Honeywell V4043 2 port valves lasted at least 42 years,
from the time I bought this house in 1977 until March this year when I
got a new system. They were the old type that didn't have a removable
head.
It was a little bit "Triggers Broom", in that the motors and
microswitches had all been replaced by me two, if not three times,
but the "wet" side of the valves were original and never gave any
trouble. I put it down to the soft water.


--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 11:16:16 +0000, Michael Chare
wrote:

On 12/12/2019 09:16, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM


I would have thought that 15 years was quite a good life span. The
motors of my momo valves did not last that long.

My heating engineer was gobsmacked that it had lasted that long,
especially for a Danfoss brand, which he doesn't rate very highly.

MM

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.


NT

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 18:31:00 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

Once it's hot it stops heating it.

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 12:02:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 18:31:00 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

Once it's hot it stops heating it.

Sure -- but only for a while, as the temperature will inevitably fall
and the boiler will kick in again. If I've had my bath that day, how
can I justify having a copper cylinder full of very hot water until
the next day? Seems daft to have piping hot water at 3:00 a.m. at
night.

MM

On 13/12/2019 09:19, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 12:02:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 18:31:00 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

Once it's hot it stops heating it.

Sure -- but only for a while, as the temperature will inevitably fall
and the boiler will kick in again. If I've had my bath that day, how
can I justify having a copper cylinder full of very hot water until
the next day? Seems daft to have piping hot water at 3:00 a.m. at
night.

By insulationg it?

MM



--
"Corbyn talks about equality, justice, opportunity, health care, peace,
community, compassion, investment, security, housing...."
"What kind of person is not interested in those things?"

"Jeremy Corbyn?"

On Friday, 13 December 2019 09:19:08 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 12:02:30 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 18:31:00 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

Once it's hot it stops heating it.

Sure -- but only for a while, as the temperature will inevitably fall
and the boiler will kick in again. If I've had my bath that day, how
can I justify having a copper cylinder full of very hot water until
the next day? Seems daft to have piping hot water at 3:00 a.m. at
night.

MM

Even if you switch the system off at bath time you're still going to have a lot of heat in the cylinder overnight. If you care at all about run cost your cylinder should be insulated, in which case there's very little saved by turning the HW off - in winter, approximately nothing, since lost heat effectively does the same job as CH heat.

The one time it would make a bit of sense to turn HW off is if you're one of those people that bathe once a week and otherwise wash cold. But those folk are pretty well gone now.

Requiring the ability to run a CH system with CH on and HW off made sense once. IMHO it no longer does.


NT

On 13/12/2019 09:19, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 12:02:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 18:31:00 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

Once it's hot it stops heating it.

Sure -- but only for a while, as the temperature will inevitably fall
and the boiler will kick in again. If I've had my bath that day, how
can I justify having a copper cylinder full of very hot water until
the next day? Seems daft to have piping hot water at 3:00 a.m. at
night.

With good lagging, relatively little heat will be "lost". However also
keep in mind where it is lost to - i.e. it ends up leaking into the
house in most cases, where it will simply reduce the amount that needs
replenishment from the CH at this time of year ans so is mostly cost
neutral.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 13 Dec 2019 09:27:26 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Fri, 13 Dec 2019 09:19:24 +0000, MM wrote:

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 12:02:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 18:31:00 UTC, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

MM

Once it's hot it stops heating it.

Sure -- but only for a while, as the temperature will inevitably fall
and the boiler will kick in again. If I've had my bath that day, how
can I justify having a copper cylinder full of very hot water until
the next day? Seems daft to have piping hot water at 3:00 a.m. at
night.

MM

If this hasn't already been said: lag the tank, fit a timer. My
heating heats the DHW for a couple of hours in the early morning, and
that's it until the following day. Tank stays hot through the day more
than sufficient for bedtime ablutions, because it's well lagged. If
you need to draw off a lot of hot water later in the day you could
always set the timer to give an early evening boost.

I don't know why this is so difficult to grasp: The hot water cylinder
contains a full amount of piping hot water after one hour on the
boiler. I use the water for a bath and washing up. I have no other
need for hot water -- apart from the washing machine every 10 days.
although the washing machine has its own heater, of course.

Therefore there is no need whatsoever to have the boiler constantly
firing to bring the cylinder temperature up again if I'm not going to
use any more hot water that day.

Not only is the volume of hot water sufficient for a bath and the
washing up, I'm talking about washing up several times a day, plus
washing my hands after using the facilities. I don't have a dish
washer.

MM

On 12/12/2019 18:31, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

Ready for the annual bath then?

Best take the washing up into the bath with you to save some money.




--
Adam

On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 21:05:43 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 12/12/2019 18:31, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

Ready for the annual bath then?

Best take the washing up into the bath with you to save some money.

Is this comment supposed to be funny, Mr Troll?

MM

On 13/12/2019 09:20, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 21:05:43 +0000, ARW
wrote:

On 12/12/2019 18:31, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

Ready for the annual bath then?

Best take the washing up into the bath with you to save some money.

Is this comment supposed to be funny, Mr Troll?

MM


Troll. Moi?



--
Adam

ARW Wrote in message:
On 12/12/2019 18:31, MM wrote:
On Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:11:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Thursday, 12 December 2019 09:15:48 UTC, MM wrote:
My heating engineer, who is very good and always does a good job,
fitted a new 3-port valve in the airing cupboard last week. He
replaced the Danfoss with a Honeywell. The Danfoss has lasted 15
years. He explained how these valves work and said that it was always
better, if possible, to have the hot water switch off AFTER the
heating, because this guarantees less wear on the valve due to the way
the valve positions itself when the hot water is switched off. Even if
one has the central heating on and it is then turned off, it's a good
idea to switch on the hot water briefly, even for only 30 seconds, so
as to reposition the valve beneficially.

MM

That ain't right. The 3 position valve's positions are, in this order: HW only (resting position), both on, CH but no HW. So the way to minimise wear is to not turn the HW off at all, jus leave it move between HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

Ready for the annual bath then?

Best take the washing up into the bath with you to save some money.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cyW4sjwkJ7c

--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article ,
says...
HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

Ready for the annual bath then?

Best take the washing up into the bath with you to save some money.

You missed a trick there, Adam!

Just been reading this thread out to Helen who pointed out
that you forgot about finally using the bath water to flush
the loo!

--

Terry

On Sat, 14 Dec 2019 13:56:25 -0000, Terry Casey
wrote:

In article ,
says...
HW and both.

But then I'm going to have far more hot water than I know what to do
with. One hour with the Wallstar gives me enough water for a hot bath
AND the washing-up.

Ready for the annual bath then?

Best take the washing up into the bath with you to save some money.

You missed a trick there, Adam!

Just been reading this thread out to Helen who pointed out
that you forgot about finally using the bath water to flush
the loo!

Sure, I've done that before, too. Bit of a fag, though. This morning I
sat on the plastic toilet seat and it cracked! Made me jump so bad I
needed another roll of loo paper...

Have used superglue and am leaving it for 24 hours. I'll just have to
use the annex toilet instead. It's like wartime!

MM

What words... super, remarkable idea