I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?


--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

AnthonyL wrote:

I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?

I think all the ones I've broken over the years have been zinc, I'd pick
either of the brass type that Wickes show, don't think I've managed to
break either of those

https://www.wickes.co.uk/search?text=brass+radiator+key

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



Brass with a large finger grip (if they will fit).

https://tinyurl.com/yy25crpd

If you have a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket set you may find that one of the
hex sockets fits over the square radiator plug and the raatchet handle
gives a lot more leverage.






--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 20:05:52 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



Brass with a large finger grip (if they will fit).

https://tinyurl.com/yy25crpd

If you have a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket set you may find that one of the
hex sockets fits over the square radiator plug and the raatchet handle
gives a lot more leverage.



What square radiator plug?

--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

On 24/10/2019 12:30, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 20:05:52 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:

https://tinyurl.com/yy25crpd

If you have a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket set you may find that one of the
hex sockets fits over the square radiator plug and the raatchet handle
gives a lot more leverage.



What square radiator plug?


so what is the fitting?

If it's a slot then a screwdriver bit in a 1/4 inch ratchet handle or a
right angled screwdriver
If a hex shaped hole then a cut down hex/allen key with a socket/ratchet
or just the hex key



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Thu, 24 Oct 2019 12:37:22 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 24/10/2019 12:30, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 20:05:52 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:

https://tinyurl.com/yy25crpd

If you have a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket set you may find that one of the
hex sockets fits over the square radiator plug and the raatchet handle
gives a lot more leverage.



What square radiator plug?


so what is the fitting?

If it's a slot then a screwdriver bit in a 1/4 inch ratchet handle or a
right angled screwdriver
If a hex shaped hole then a cut down hex/allen key with a socket/ratchet
or just the hex key


It's as per photo at:

https://flic.kr/p/2hAcV3x

The photo is the front facing bleed valve from one of two double rads
and so I can easily get to these. All the other rads have the bleed
screw facing the wall so I have ~2" to work in.


--
AnthonyL

Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything?

AnthonyL wrote:
On Thu, 24 Oct 2019 12:37:22 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 24/10/2019 12:30, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 20:05:52 +0100, alan_m
wrote:

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:

https://tinyurl.com/yy25crpd

If you have a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket set you may find that one of the
hex sockets fits over the square radiator plug and the raatchet handle
gives a lot more leverage.



What square radiator plug?


so what is the fitting?

If it's a slot then a screwdriver bit in a 1/4 inch ratchet handle or a
right angled screwdriver
If a hex shaped hole then a cut down hex/allen key with a socket/ratchet
or just the hex key


It's as per photo at:

https://flic.kr/p/2hAcV3x

The photo is the front facing bleed valve from one of two double rads
and so I can easily get to these. All the other rads have the bleed
screw facing the wall so I have ~2" to work in.



But that *is* a square radiator plug/bleed valve. I wouldnt use a hex
socket on it though. Too much chance of rounding it off. The key I posted a
link to earlier should work on the ones behind the radiator.

Tim

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Wednesday, 23 October 2019 19:36:59 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?

In order of strength:
steel, brass, zinc & such alloys, plastic.


NT

AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



Maybe you need one of these?

Rear Access Radiator Vent Bleed Key Tommy Bar
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0182OUQ..._uOlSDbJNEBJ0M

Personally I would grind/file the open face flatter to improve the grip on
the bleed valve. The actual square socket seems to be quite deeply
recessed.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 18:36:55 GMT, lid (AnthonyL)
wrote:

I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?

I use a drum key. Same size recess but designed to be used for
tightening percussion heads. Thin, strong surround so it gets into
awkward small apertures but with a rather longer handle than the
typical radiator key so it might be a bit of a bugger going round the
back - IYSWIM

Nick

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?


I have a brass one with "wings", they don't hurt my fingers like the
smaller ones do.

In the past I have snapped the head off a stiff vent screw and had to
replace the radiator. I was probably using pliers to increase leverage,
but it is something to think about.

On 24/10/2019 11:42, Pancho wrote:
On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws.Â* All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for?Â* Draper Zinc?


I have a brass one with "wings", they don't hurt my fingers like the
smaller ones do.

In the past I have snapped the head off a stiff vent screw and had to
replace the radiator. I was probably using pliers to increase leverage,
but it is something to think about.

I must admit, I prefer the ones with the bleed valves on the ends.
Easier to access and you can change the whole bleed valve if the needle
gets stuck.

SteveW

In article ,
AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?

A decent tight fitting socket from a small socket set. Made of tool steel
rather than chocolate.

--
*If a turtle doesn't have a shell, is he homeless or naked?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 23/10/2019 19:36, AnthonyL wrote:
I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



We had one like that (siezed bleed screw, positioned at the back).
It was only an inch or so from the wall and impossible to get anything
other than a key on to, so the rad would have to come off the wall one
way or another.

The rad was a bit rusty anyway, just a single panel, and Toolstation
were selling brand new double-panel radiators for under £10 (and still
are), I just replaced the whole thing.

--
Reentrant

lid (AnthonyL) wrote in news:5db09d2e.37820718
@news.eternal-september.org:

I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



With most keys it is better to file of the countersunk lead-in as this
wastes some of the gripping area and prevents you getting further onto the
square of the screw.

Remove the screw and put some grease or something on and don't over
tighten.

John wrote:
lid (AnthonyL) wrote in news:5db09d2e.37820718
@news.eternal-september.org:

I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



With most keys it is better to file of the countersunk lead-in as this
wastes some of the gripping area and prevents you getting further onto the
square of the screw.

+1.

Ive never understood why so many of the brass keys in particular have the
socket countersunk (thus reducing the contact area).

Tim




--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 24/10/2019 18:10, Tim+ wrote:

Ive never understood why so many of the brass keys in particular have the
socket countersunk (thus reducing the contact area).


Possibly it helps with manufacture in that the cheap brass item doesn't
need extra manufacturing processes.

It probably helps locating the key on the valve especially is there is
any rust or the valve has been slightly mangled with pliers etc.



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 24/10/2019 18:10, Tim+ wrote:
John wrote:
lid (AnthonyL) wrote in news:5db09d2e.37820718
@news.eternal-september.org:

I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct
into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured
a couple of cheapo keys.

As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go
for? Draper Zinc?



With most keys it is better to file of the countersunk lead-in as this
wastes some of the gripping area and prevents you getting further onto the
square of the screw.

+1.

Ive never understood why so many of the brass keys in particular have the
socket countersunk (thus reducing the contact area).

Tim





I have never come across a bleed valve that goes all the way in until
the head is against the radiator. They normally have a pointy bit that
seals on the end and making contact with the head would stop them working.
Therefore a small chamfer makes bugger all difference to contact area
and does make them easier to make and use.

I have never come across a bleed valve that goes all the way in until
the head is against the radiator. They normally have a pointy bit that
seals on the end and making contact with the head would stop them
working. Therefore a small chamfer makes bugger all difference to
contact area and does make them easier to make and use.



Removing the chamfer increases the chance of all the square being in
contact and not twisting the end off or ruining the key.