So we warned them that our house is 300 years old, and every other bit
of work we've done has showed damp.

They stripped out the old kitchen, waved a damp meter at the floor, and
fitted the new one.

Then the floor fitter turns up. Looks damp he says, and sets up a test.
He's also unhappy about what I hadn't looked at properly and thought was
a bit of the old floor. It's another layer of vinyl, with a screed on
top of it.

Proper damp test says it's damp. Test was done under the cupboards, not
on the exposed floor.

They are now proposing that they'll chip out the old screed, put a damp
proof membrane _on_ _the _ _part_ _of_ _the_ _floor_ _which_ _isn't_
_under_ _the_ _cupboards_, and fit the new floor.

They keep suggesting that we'll carry at least some of the risk of
damage to the kitchen.

We're also not at all happy about the damp being left under the
cupboards. Especially the bits where there is wood touching the damp floor.

What does the team think? Do we need a membrane all the way across?

Andy
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See also uk.legal.moderated

Vir Campestris used his keyboard to write :
What does the team think? Do we need a membrane all the way across?

Yes and the wood not in direct contact with the floor.

On Friday, 6 September 2019 21:45:02 UTC+1, Vir Campestris wrote:
So we warned them that our house is 300 years old, and every other bit
of work we've done has showed damp.

They stripped out the old kitchen, waved a damp meter at the floor, and
fitted the new one.

Then the floor fitter turns up. Looks damp he says, and sets up a test.
He's also unhappy about what I hadn't looked at properly and thought was
a bit of the old floor. It's another layer of vinyl, with a screed on
top of it.

Proper damp test says it's damp. Test was done under the cupboards, not
on the exposed floor.

They are now proposing that they'll chip out the old screed, put a damp
proof membrane _on_ _the _ _part_ _of_ _the_ _floor_ _which_ _isn't_
_under_ _the_ _cupboards_, and fit the new floor.

They keep suggesting that we'll carry at least some of the risk of
damage to the kitchen.

We're also not at all happy about the damp being left under the
cupboards. Especially the bits where there is wood touching the damp floor.

What does the team think? Do we need a membrane all the way across?

Andy

If it's 300 years old, dpm-ing the floor will increase the damp in the walls, as the underfloor will no longer evaporate damp. A dehumidifier might be a better option, at a suitable setting.

Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.


NT

On 07/09/2019 01:07, wrote:


Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.


Don't most decent (and even cheap) units come with plastic feet that are
the height of the under cabinet kick-board? If so the damp will not
affect the units apart from a chipboard kick-board which could be
replaced by something more suitable (uPVC?).

Judging by some of the water damage done by leaking washing machines
etc. that I've seen often the chipboard kick-boards fitted to expensive
kitchens have the strength of weetabix when damp.


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You used to be able to get Upvc clip over bits for the bottom of chipboard
units and even spacers made of it for just this scenario. Should not the
fitters have twigged the problems and at least made sure the damp does not
get into brand new units?

Brian

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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

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wrote in message
...
On Friday, 6 September 2019 21:45:02 UTC+1, Vir Campestris wrote:
So we warned them that our house is 300 years old, and every other bit
of work we've done has showed damp.

They stripped out the old kitchen, waved a damp meter at the floor, and
fitted the new one.

Then the floor fitter turns up. Looks damp he says, and sets up a test.
He's also unhappy about what I hadn't looked at properly and thought was
a bit of the old floor. It's another layer of vinyl, with a screed on
top of it.

Proper damp test says it's damp. Test was done under the cupboards, not
on the exposed floor.

They are now proposing that they'll chip out the old screed, put a damp
proof membrane _on_ _the _ _part_ _of_ _the_ _floor_ _which_ _isn't_
_under_ _the_ _cupboards_, and fit the new floor.

They keep suggesting that we'll carry at least some of the risk of
damage to the kitchen.

We're also not at all happy about the damp being left under the
cupboards. Especially the bits where there is wood touching the damp
floor.

What does the team think? Do we need a membrane all the way across?

Andy

If it's 300 years old, dpm-ing the floor will increase the damp in the
walls, as the underfloor will no longer evaporate damp. A dehumidifier
might be a better option, at a suitable setting.

Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.


NT

That strong eh? a tiny 18th in bit of marine ply was under mine, Only
secured at the ends. boing boing.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 07/09/2019 01:07, wrote:


Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.


Don't most decent (and even cheap) units come with plastic feet that are
the height of the under cabinet kick-board? If so the damp will not affect
the units apart from a chipboard kick-board which could be replaced by
something more suitable (uPVC?).

Judging by some of the water damage done by leaking washing machines etc.
that I've seen often the chipboard kick-boards fitted to expensive
kitchens have the strength of weetabix when damp.


--
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On 07/09/2019 01:07, wrote:
On Friday, 6 September 2019 21:45:02 UTC+1, Vir Campestris wrote:
So we warned them that our house is 300 years old, and every other
bit of work we've done has showed damp.

They stripped out the old kitchen, waved a damp meter at the floor,
and fitted the new one.

Then the floor fitter turns up. Looks damp he says, and sets up a
test. He's also unhappy about what I hadn't looked at properly and
thought was a bit of the old floor. It's another layer of vinyl,
with a screed on top of it.

Proper damp test says it's damp. Test was done under the cupboards,
not on the exposed floor.

They are now proposing that they'll chip out the old screed, put a
damp proof membrane _on_ _the _ _part_ _of_ _the_ _floor_ _which_
_isn't_ _under_ _the_ _cupboards_, and fit the new floor.

They keep suggesting that we'll carry at least some of the risk of
damage to the kitchen.

We're also not at all happy about the damp being left under the
cupboards. Especially the bits where there is wood touching the
damp floor.

What does the team think? Do we need a membrane all the way
across?

Andy

If it's 300 years old, dpm-ing the floor will increase the damp in
the walls, as the underfloor will no longer evaporate damp. A
dehumidifier might be a better option, at a suitable setting.

I have seen floors without any membrane and allowed to breath without issue.

Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.

I would hope these are on plastic stilts?

On 06/09/2019 21:45, Vir Campestris wrote:
So we warned them that our house is 300 years old, and every other bit
of work we've done has showed damp.

They stripped out the old kitchen, waved a damp meter at the floor, and
fitted the new one.

Then the floor fitter turns up. Looks damp he says, and sets up a test.
He's also unhappy about what I hadn't looked at properly and thought was
a bit of the old floor. It's another layer of vinyl, with a screed on
top of it.

Proper damp test says it's damp. Test was done under the cupboards, not
on the exposed floor.

They are now proposing that they'll chip out the old screed, put a damp
proof membrane _on_ _the _ _part_ _of_ _the_ _floor_ _which_ _isn't_
_under_ _the_ _cupboards_, and fit the new floor.

They keep suggesting that we'll carry at least some of the risk of
damage to the kitchen.

We're also not at all happy about the damp being left under the
cupboards. Especially the bits where there is wood touching the damp floor.

What does the team think? Do we need a membrane all the way across?

Andy

My problems are walls rather than floors. IME trying to hold it back
always fails. (I realise that industrial quality tanking works in new
build cellars but usually not an option in old cottages). I fixed my
worst wall by stripping it all back to the rubble stone, putting
ventilated wainscotting as a feature up to 3 feet or so, then having
"feature" stonework above, nicely pointed with dyed lime mortar
containing random ground stone. This keeps the whole thing dried out.
Occasionally you need to brush off a bit of efflorescence.

And for avoidance of doubt, it isn't penetrating damp, it is rising. It
can reach 8 feet from the floor because the walls are built straight
onto the limestone, and there is a 300 foot hill within a quarter of a mile.

On 07/09/2019 12:42, Fredxx wrote:
On 07/09/2019 01:07, wrote:

If it's 300 years old, dpm-ing the floor will increase the damp in
the walls, as the underfloor will no longer evaporate damp. A
dehumidifier might be a better option, at a suitable setting.

We have a dehumidifier. Obviously it doesn't have much effect on the
parts that are behind the cupboard doors - the old ones always smelt damp.

I have seen floors without any membrane and allowed to breath without
issue.

Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.

I would hope these are on plastic stilts?

Most of it is in plastic stilts.

Most.

There are four fixed panels that go all the way to floor level.

Andy

On 07/09/2019 18:07, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 07/09/2019 12:42, Fredxx wrote:
On 07/09/2019 01:07, wrote:

If it's 300 years old, dpm-ing the floor will increase the damp in
the walls, as the underfloor will no longer evaporate damp. A
dehumidifier might be a better option, at a suitable setting.

We have a dehumidifier. Obviously it doesn't have much effect on the
parts that are behind the cupboard doors - the old ones always smelt damp.

I have seen floors without any membrane and allowed to breath without
issue.

Would I put laminated chipboard kitchen units on a damp floor? Nope.

I would hope these are on plastic stilts?

Most of it is in plastic stilts.

Most.

There are four fixed panels that go all the way to floor level.

Generally those are end panels and can be easily changed, so something I
wouldn't worry about.

On 07/09/2019 21:54, Fredxx wrote:

Generally those are end panels and can be easily changed, so something I
wouldn't worry about.

Doesn't that really depend on how the units have been assembled? If glue
has been used on dowels or the edges of the panels on a flat pack
removing a side panel may not be possible without damaging the rest of
the carcass. Even with the screw type fittings that have a quarter turn
to pull the panels tightly into place access underneath a fitted unit
will be somewhat difficult.


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