| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
Clutch failure?
I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems
to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote:
I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Is it a Rolls or a Reliant, Lada or Lagonda? Dave |
Clutch failure?
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:37:09 +0100, David Wade
wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Is it a Rolls or a Reliant, Lada or Lagonda? Somewhere in between - Nissan Micra K12 series. |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote:
I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. Andy |
Clutch failure?
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:01 +0100, Vir Campestris
wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. Thanks. I'll get it looked at. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. In my defence I bought the car with over 60,000 on the clock. I was a bit dubious at the time but the seller said it was fine. I have previously exceeded that figure on one clutch in a Metro. |
Clutch failure?
Vir Campestris wrote:
On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Car clutches are adjustable? How does that work? I can see how a stretched cable, poor set up or other cause might lead to a clutch that doesnt fully disengage. I cant see how any adjustment would make it engage more firmly. Or it may be new clutch time. It is. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 22:17, Tim+ wrote:
Vir Campestris wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Car clutches are adjustable? How does that work? Some were, where you could adjust the free travel. Rare nowadays. I can see how a stretched cable, poor set up or other cause might lead to a clutch that doesnt fully disengage. I cant see how any adjustment would make it engage more firmly. Even cable clutches are usually self adjusting and take up stretched cable slack, or slacken with clutch wear. Or it may be new clutch time. It is. Very likely. |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 22:03, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:01 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. Thanks. I'll get it looked at. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. In my defence I bought the car with over 60,000 on the clock. I was a bit dubious at the time but the seller said it was fine. I have previously exceeded that figure on one clutch in a Metro. My Sierra did 124,000 miles on one clutch before I got rid of it, my Focus TDCI 150,000 and only had a new clutch then because of a dual-mass flywheel. I tend to keep cars a fair few years and the only one I have have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. SteveW |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 22:45, Steve Walker wrote:
On 01/07/2019 22:03, Scott wrote: On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:01 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out.* The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills.* Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles.* Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get?* Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. Thanks.* I'll get it looked at. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. In my defence I bought the car with over 60,000 on the clock.* I was a bit dubious at the time but the seller said it was fine.* I have previously exceeded that figure on one clutch in a Metro. My Sierra did 124,000 miles on one clutch before I got rid of it, my Focus TDCI 150,000 and only had a new clutch then because of a dual-mass flywheel. I tend to keep cars a fair few years and the only one I have have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. If the car has done a lot of urban miles, then I'll be less surprised of failure at 70k miles. |
Clutch failure?
On Monday, 1 July 2019 21:24:08 UTC+1, Scott wrote:
I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Ah, the benefits of electric cars!! |
Clutch failure?
On 1 Jul 2019 21:17:44 GMT, Tim+ wrote:
I can see how a stretched cable, poor set up or other cause might lead to a clutch that doesnt fully disengage. I cant see how any adjustment would make it engage more firmly. The disengagemnet point wanders up from the floorboard, until it would be fully engaged only if the pedal were pulled up, as it were. Thomas Prufer |
Clutch failure?
I'm surprised there is no little friendly icon that lights up when the
clutch is on the blink. They seem to have icons for everything these days, one presumes they do not need translating. Brian -- ----- -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "David Wade" wrote in message ... On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Is it a Rolls or a Reliant, Lada or Lagonda? Dave |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 23:11, Fredxx wrote:
On 01/07/2019 22:45, Steve Walker wrote: I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. If the car has done a lot of urban miles, then I'll be less surprised of failure at 70k miles. Yes. Clutch life is very variable, depending on usage and style of driving. Anything over 70K is fair gaime, but many people get much, much more. |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 21:37, David Wade wrote:
On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out.* The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills.* Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles.* Does this sound like a clutch issue? yes If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get?* Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Mostly they slip in top gear first. You can limp for a week or two But more clutch slip will wear the plate out fatser, and if its you that's already worn it out, well... Modern clutches shouldl NOT wear out: not unless its a taxicab. Is it a Rolls or a Reliant, Lada or Lagonda? Dave -- "It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere" |
Clutch failure?
On 01/07/2019 23:11, Fredxx wrote:
On 01/07/2019 22:45, Steve Walker wrote: On 01/07/2019 22:03, Scott wrote: On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:01 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out.* The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills.* Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles.* Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get?* Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. Thanks.* I'll get it looked at. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. In my defence I bought the car with over 60,000 on the clock.* I was a bit dubious at the time but the seller said it was fine.* I have previously exceeded that figure on one clutch in a Metro. My Sierra did 124,000 miles on one clutch before I got rid of it, my Focus TDCI 150,000 and only had a new clutch then because of a dual-mass flywheel. I tend to keep cars a fair few years and the only one I have have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. If the car has done a lot of urban miles, then I'll be less surprised of failure at 70k miles. Another gotcha is failed oil seal on the crankshaft spraying the plate with oil # But that doesnt change the bite point -- Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people. But Marxism is the crack cocaine. |
Clutch failure?
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 07:52:03 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote: I'm surprised there is no little friendly icon that lights up when the clutch is on the blink. They seem to have icons for everything these days, one presumes they do not need translating. Brian 2008 vehicle. The new ones probably have an app for the mobile phone that carries out a full diagnostic test !!! |
Clutch failure?
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 09:00:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:37, David Wade wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out.* The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills.* Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles.* Does this sound like a clutch issue? yes If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get?* Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Mostly they slip in top gear first. Thanks. It does seem to be worse in fifth. You can limp for a week or two But more clutch slip will wear the plate out fatser, and if its you that's already worn it out, well... Modern clutches shouldl NOT wear out: not unless its a taxicab. I bought the vehicle second hand so I am blaming someone else. . |
Clutch failure?
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 23:11:46 +0100, Fredxx wrote:
On 01/07/2019 22:45, Steve Walker wrote: On 01/07/2019 22:03, Scott wrote: On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:01 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out.* The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills.* Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles.* Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get?* Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. Thanks.* I'll get it looked at. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. In my defence I bought the car with over 60,000 on the clock.* I was a bit dubious at the time but the seller said it was fine.* I have previously exceeded that figure on one clutch in a Metro. My Sierra did 124,000 miles on one clutch before I got rid of it, my Focus TDCI 150,000 and only had a new clutch then because of a dual-mass flywheel. I tend to keep cars a fair few years and the only one I have have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. If the car has done a lot of urban miles, then I'll be less surprised of failure at 70k miles. I think he lived in Edinburgh. Have you ever experienced the driving there :-) |
Clutch failure?
On 02/07/2019 08:49, Chris Bartram wrote:
On 01/07/2019 23:11, Fredxx wrote: On 01/07/2019 22:45, Steve Walker wrote: I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. If the car has done a lot of urban miles, then I'll be less surprised of failure at 70k miles. Yes. Clutch life is very variable, depending on usage and style of driving. Anything over 70K is fair gaime, but many people get much, much more. At least double that and still counting. It all depends on how much and how often you let the clutch slip or rest your foot on the clutch pedal. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Clutch failure?
Brian Gaff wrote
I'm surprised there is no little friendly icon that lights up when the clutch is on the blink. Thats done with OBD2 now. They seem to have icons for everything these days, one presumes they do not need translating. "David Wade" wrote in message ... On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? Is it a Rolls or a Reliant, Lada or Lagonda? Dave |
Clutch failure?
"Steve Walker" wrote in message
... My Sierra did 124,000 miles on one clutch before I got rid of it, my Focus TDCI 150,000 and only had a new clutch then because of a dual-mass flywheel. I tend to keep cars a fair few years and the only one I have have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. My Peugeot 308 has done 180,000 miles and is still on its original clutch. The bite point has got progressively higher but there's no sign of slipping - engine revs rising when you apply power without speedometer rising correspondingly. I don't drive like a granny but then I don't drive like a bat out of hell either: somewhere in between. And I try to match the engine speed to the new gear to minimise the amount of clutch slipping - unlike someone who once gave me a lift who had been taught to come right off the power, change gear, let up the clutch on an idling engine, and then re-apply power, which must have caused horrendous wear on the clutch... and on the passengers! She was gobsmacked when I rather tentatively said that there was a better way of doing it, and demonstrated that if you keep your foot on the accelerator and keep the engine speed fairly constant while you are changing gear, and then either increase or decrease it a little depending on whether you are changing down or up, as you let the clutch up, you get a much smoother change. The only problem I had with the clutch was at about 30,000 miles when the hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch itself failed - leaving the car stuck in gear at the head of traffic lights. I was not popular because there was no way to move it: I couldn't get it out of gear. But that was not the clutch lining - the part that normally wears. On all my previous cars, with older 1980s/90s technology, I've needed a new clutch at around 70-80,000 miles, so this Pug is doing *very* much better. |
Clutch failure?
"NY" wrote in message ... "Steve Walker" wrote in message ... My Sierra did 124,000 miles on one clutch before I got rid of it, my Focus TDCI 150,000 and only had a new clutch then because of a dual-mass flywheel. I tend to keep cars a fair few years and the only one I have have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. My Peugeot 308 has done 180,000 miles and is still on its original clutch. The bite point has got progressively higher but there's no sign of slipping - engine revs rising when you apply power without speedometer rising correspondingly. I don't drive like a granny but then I don't drive like a bat out of hell either: somewhere in between. And I try to match the engine speed to the new gear to minimise the amount of clutch slipping - unlike someone who once gave me a lift who had been taught to come right off the power, change gear, let up the clutch on an idling engine, and then re-apply power, which must have caused horrendous wear on the clutch... and on the passengers! She was gobsmacked when I rather tentatively said that there was a better way of doing it, and demonstrated that if you keep your foot on the accelerator and keep the engine speed fairly constant while you are changing gear, and then either increase or decrease it a little depending on whether you are changing down or up, as you let the clutch up, you get a much smoother change. The only problem I had with the clutch was at about 30,000 miles when the hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch itself failed - leaving the car stuck in gear at the head of traffic lights. I was not popular because there was no way to move it: I couldn't get it out of gear. But that was not the clutch lining - the part that normally wears. On all my previous cars, with older 1980s/90s technology, I've needed a new clutch at around 70-80,000 miles, I didnt with my 73 golf or the previous 66 beetle. so this Pug is doing *very* much better. |
Clutch failure?
I am unfortunate enough to own a French car (Peugeot 1007). The self help group Im on recons their clutches are good for 70-80K. Mine failed around that point, not the clutch itself, but the release bearing. I think the discussion went something like
Designer- Weve got a bullet proof release bearing for the 1007 Accountant - Non, weve got boxes of release bearings left over from when we made mopeds, use them The brake disks last no time compared to BL or Vauxhall(Opel) either. |
Clutch failure?
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:06:05 +0100, NY wrote:
The only problem I had with the clutch was at about 30,000 miles when the hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch itself failed - leaving the car stuck in gear at the head of traffic lights. I was not popular because there was no way to move it: I couldn't get it out of gear. Stuck in gear, working clutch, clutch release mechanisum failed - unable to release clutch, engine must have stopped or you'd be moving... Clutch release mechanisum failed and holding the clutch disengaged, doesn't matter if the thing is stuck in gear or not. Stored tension in the transmission stoping gears sliding out of mesh when gear leaver shoved, release tension by releaseing any brakes and rocking the car to/fro, possibly on the starter. -- Cheers Dave. |
Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 19:00:25 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: I'm surprised there is no little friendly icon that lights up when the clutch is on the blink. Thats done with OBD2 now. Actually previous versions already did, you self-opinionated, self-important senile asshole! -- addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent: "You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates your particular prowess at it every day." MID: |
Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 19:11:35 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: On all my previous cars, with older 1980s/90s technology, I've needed a new clutch at around 70-80,000 miles, I didnt with my 73 golf or the previous 66 beetle. ROTFLOL!!!!!! Auto-contradicting senile ASSHOLE! -- Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot: "Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)" MID: |
Clutch failure?
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:06:05 +0100, "NY" wrote:
snip I don't drive like a granny but then I don't drive like a bat out of hell either: somewhere in between. And I try to match the engine speed to the new gear to minimise the amount of clutch slipping - unlike someone who once gave me a lift who had been taught to come right off the power, change gear, let up the clutch on an idling engine, and then re-apply power, which must have caused horrendous wear on the clutch... and on the passengers! She was gobsmacked when I rather tentatively said that there was a better way of doing it, A garage owning mate looked after a granny's car and she was often bringing it in because she had misjudged the width of her drive entrance and taken it down the wall on one side or another, or more regularly, a new clutch. ;-( He went out for a drive with her a few times to try to help her drive better but eventually gave up. The reason for the excessive clutch wear was that she typically set the revs (till she could hear the engine) and than controlled the speed on the clutch. To try to assist her he put small stickers on the speedo, recommending speed she changed gear and another on the rev counter indicating what should be 'sufficient' to do most things but it didn't help. *Luckily*, and with pressure from her granddaughter, she gave her the car (before she wrecked it completely) on the understanding that she drove her to church once a week. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
Clutch failure?
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
idual.net... On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:06:05 +0100, NY wrote: The only problem I had with the clutch was at about 30,000 miles when the hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch itself failed - leaving the car stuck in gear at the head of traffic lights. I was not popular because there was no way to move it: I couldn't get it out of gear. Stuck in gear, working clutch, clutch release mechanisum failed - unable to release clutch, engine must have stopped or you'd be moving... Clutch release mechanisum failed and holding the clutch disengaged, doesn't matter if the thing is stuck in gear or not. Stored tension in the transmission stoping gears sliding out of mesh when gear leaver shoved, release tension by releaseing any brakes and rocking the car to/fro, possibly on the starter. As I was letting the clutch in to set off when the lights went green, the clutch engaged very sharply (because the pedal "linkage" had failed so the pedal no longer held the clutch disengaged) and the car stalled. So it stalled in gear. I tried using the starter but because the road was sloping uphill, the starter wouldn't move the car - and I was concerned about how much current the starter motor would draw when it had to move the car uphill so I didn't try for long. I tried rolling backwards a couple of inches to take up the slack, but still the gear lever was jammed. Eventually after working the pedal repeatedly, the linkage actually engaged with the clutch so I was able to put the car in neutral and then roll backwards into a roadside parking space to wait for the RAC to tow me to the garage - which agreed to stay open to book my car in. When I got the clutch to work, there was the temptation to think that the problem had cleared itself and I'd be able to drive home and then take it to the garage in the village, but I'm glad I resisted that temptation because it only worked a couple of times and then failed again. It turned out to be a hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch lever on the gearbox housing: a burst seal or something like that. Moderately expensive but nothing like the remove-engine-and gearbox labour and parts of the actual clutch. |
Clutch failure?
"T i m" wrote in message
... The reason for the excessive clutch wear was that she typically set the revs (till she could hear the engine) and than controlled the speed on the clutch. I often hear that in supermarket or garden centre car parks - usually elderly drivers (*): wind up the engine revs to about 2000 and then let the clutch in very very gently so the car crawls as the car reverses out and then as it sets off. I suppose I'm lucky in my diesel-engined car that it will pull away from rest with the engine idling and no throttle, which makes very slow manoeuvring and hill-starts a doddle. The other thing that will wear the clutch very quickly is holding the car on an uphill at a junction by setting the clutch to rub continuously so the forward force balances the backwards rolling-down-the-hill force. My mum used to do that sometimes in her old Morris Minor because it saves having to use the handbrake to do a proper hill start, but I remember her saying (when I was about 5) "don't do this when *you* start driving". (*) I wonder if some of these car-crashes-into-supermarket "the car just took off - I couldn't stop it" incidents are when the engine is racing at 2000 and the driver lets the clutch in slightly more than normal (or his clutch foot gets tired) and the car lurches forwards. Much better to use the lowest engine speed that will still pull without stalling - less opportunity for error ;-) |
Clutch failure?
On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 09:44:48 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote: On 02/07/2019 08:49, Chris Bartram wrote: On 01/07/2019 23:11, Fredxx wrote: On 01/07/2019 22:45, Steve Walker wrote: I'd say that if you've got a problem at 70,000 miles, it's likely that the previous owner slipped it a lot or there's some other mechanical problem that is either causing the problem directly or has caused wear to the clutch. If the car has done a lot of urban miles, then I'll be less surprised of failure at 70k miles. Yes. Clutch life is very variable, depending on usage and style of driving. Anything over 70K is fair gaime, but many people get much, much more. At least double that and still counting. It all depends on how much and how often you let the clutch slip or rest your foot on the clutch pedal. My late father and I wrote one off after about nine months. It was unfortunate I ever allowed him to teach me to drive :-) |
Clutch failure?
On Monday, 1 July 2019 22:45:55 UTC+1, Steve Walker wrote:
have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! what are Yugos really like? NT |
Clutch failure?
In article ,
Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? It may make sense to change the clutch sooner rather than later. To avoid damage to the flywheel. -- *Ham and Eggs: Just a day's work for a chicken, but a lifetime commitment Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Clutch failure?
Dave Plowman wrote:
It may make sense to change the clutch sooner rather than later. To avoid damage to the flywheel. If it's a diesel, it seems the done thing is to replace the DMF at the same time ... or get shot of the vehicle. |
Clutch failure?
Scott wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:01 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote: On 01/07/2019 21:24, Scott wrote: I am wondering if my clutch is on the way out. The biting point seems to be getting higher, the engine sometimes speeds up during gear changes and the car seems less lively on hills. Vehicle has done nearly 70,000 miles. Does this sound like a clutch issue? If I just wait and see, how much warning would I get? Would I know when a new clutch is needed or would I just come to an unplanned halt one day? I think you've had your warning... Pick a gear that won't easily exceed the speed limit. Accelerate hard from low revs, through the peak torque of the engine. The engine speed should increase smoothly. If it seems to rise sharply, then stop going up, your clutch is slipping. It may be that simple adjustment can fix it. Or it may be new clutch time. Thanks. I'll get it looked at. It'll last a good long time if you drive like a Granny and never make it slip. (My mum had a slave cylinder failure on the car she hadn't had long - and hadn't noticed. But then, she _is_ a Granny...) My clutch is at 160k miles and counting. In my defence I bought the car with over 60,000 on the clock. I was a bit dubious at the time but the seller said it was fine. I have Was the previous owner a granny? Micras are the sort of car that many older women favour because they are fairly inexpensive to purchase and run. Despite the previous posters comment about driving like a granny his line and never make it slip is important. Many grannies have poor clutch control partly I suppose due to weakening of leg and foot muscles or painful joints, it is not unusual to hear one pull away with the engine screaming like a banshee but without the progress that should accompany that with the smell of burning clutch wafting from the car. The local garage has such a customer, she needs a new clutch about every 8000 miles in a similar small model that appeals to many elder drivers a Toyota Aygo . They have suggested she gets an Automatic but she wont countenance the idea. GH |
Clutch failure?
In article ,
Andy Burns wrote: Dave Plowman wrote: It may make sense to change the clutch sooner rather than later. To avoid damage to the flywheel. If it's a diesel, it seems the done thing is to replace the DMF at the same time ... or get shot of the vehicle. Quite. I can remember simply replacing the driven plate in years gone by. Clutch cover and flywheel still OK. ;-) -- *Fax is stronger than fiction * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Clutch failure?
In message , Andy Burns
writes Dave Plowman wrote: It may make sense to change the clutch sooner rather than later. To avoid damage to the flywheel. If it's a diesel, it seems the done thing is to replace the DMF at the same time ... or get shot of the vehicle. I've had two Skoda Octavia diesels. Both have exhibited the same clutch characteristics. Normally they are fine and give smooth good gearchanges. But...... If creeping along in almost stationary traffic - a good example is when in backed up queues in the Mersey Tunnel - the clutch starts to judder. The judder then gets progressively worse until, in the first one I had, the car became very difficult to drive. The judder could, I think, sync up with the resonant frequency of the DMF. Whatever the cause was, it could stall the engine. After a rest and cooling down period, everything would return to normal. With the first Octavia, I was planning to get the DMF changed to a proper flywheel (Skoda do one for taxis), but other things went wrong, so I traded it in. We still have the newer one and at just over 100k miles, the "feature" is there, but liveable with. -- Bill |
Clutch failure?
On 02/07/2019 11:22, NY wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message idual.net... On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 10:06:05 +0100, NY wrote: The only problem I had with the clutch was at about 30,000 miles when the hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch itself failed - leaving the car stuck in gear at the head of traffic lights. I was not popular because there was no way to move it: I couldn't get it out of gear. Stuck in gear, working clutch, clutch release mechanisum failed - unable to release clutch, engine must have stopped or you'd be moving... Clutch release mechanisum* failed and holding the clutch disengaged, doesn't matter if the thing is stuck in gear or not. Stored tension in the transmission stoping gears sliding out of mesh when gear leaver shoved, release tension by releaseing any brakes and rocking the car to/fro, possibly on the starter. As I was letting the clutch in to set off when the lights went green, the clutch engaged very sharply (because the pedal "linkage" had failed so the pedal no longer held the clutch disengaged) and the car stalled. So it stalled in gear. I tried using the starter but because the road was sloping uphill, the starter wouldn't move the car - and I was concerned about how much current the starter motor would draw when it had to move the car uphill so I didn't try for long. I tried rolling backwards a couple of inches to take up the slack, but still the gear lever was jammed. Eventually after working the pedal repeatedly, the linkage actually engaged with the clutch so I was able to put the car in neutral and then roll backwards into a roadside parking space to wait for the RAC to tow me to the garage - which agreed to stay open to book my car in. When I got the clutch to work, there was the temptation to think that the problem had cleared itself and I'd be able to drive home and then take it to the garage in the village, but I'm glad I resisted that temptation because it only worked a couple of times and then failed again. It turned out to be a hydraulic actuator between the pedal cable and the clutch lever on the gearbox housing: a burst seal or something like that. Moderately expensive but nothing like the remove-engine-and gearbox labour and parts of the actual clutch. After I'd passed my test, but before I needed a car of my own, I lost first and second gears in my parents' car (a Fiat 131), at a junction. I managed to get home with third and fourth and slipping the clutch to set off. Once home I found it was a worn part of the linkage, at the bottom of the gear lever and I turned up a replacement on the lathe. An hour or so later, all was back to normal. SteveW |
Clutch failure?
On 02/07/2019 11:32, NY wrote:
"T i m" wrote in message ... The reason for the excessive clutch wear was that she typically set the revs (till she could hear the engine) and than controlled the speed on the clutch. I often hear that in supermarket or garden centre car parks - usually elderly drivers (*): wind up the engine revs to about 2000 and then let the clutch in very very gently so the car crawls as the car reverses out and then as it sets off. I suppose I'm lucky in my diesel-engined car that it will pull away from rest with the engine idling and no throttle, which makes very slow manoeuvring and hill-starts a doddle. The other thing that will wear the clutch very quickly is holding the car on an uphill at a junction by setting the clutch to rub continuously so the forward force balances the backwards rolling-down-the-hill force. My mum used to do that sometimes in her old Morris Minor because it saves having to use the handbrake to do a proper hill start, but I remember her saying (when I was about 5) "don't do this when *you* start driving". (*) I wonder if some of these car-crashes-into-supermarket "the car just took off - I couldn't stop it" incidents are when the engine is racing at 2000 and the driver lets the clutch in slightly more than normal (or his clutch foot gets tired) and the car lurches forwards. Much better to use the lowest engine speed that will still pull without stalling - less opportunity for error ;-) In most cases the cars involved seem to be automatic. It is likely that the driver has missed the brake pedal, caught the accelerator, but thinks that their foot is on the brake and so presses harder and everything happens so quickly that there is no time to correct the error. Possibly more likely in smaller cars as well - I have driven a couple where the offside, front wheel protrudes so far into the car that the pedals are all offset to the left and you have to drive sitting at a slight angle. It's very easy to put your foot on the wrong pedal in those - particularly if you drive a larger car most of the time. SteveW |
Clutch failure?
|
Clutch failure?
On 02/07/2019 21:44, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/07/2019 12:11, wrote: On Monday, 1 July 2019 22:45:55 UTC+1, Steve Walker* wrote: have had to change the clutch on due to wear was my first car (a Yugo 45) and that had been a driving school car before I had it! what are Yugos really like? Well that was in the '80s. Yugos and Ladas (part of my learning was in a Lada) were basically older Fiat designs or at least based on Fiat mechanicals. I'm sorry but I disagree. The Lada, have no idea about Yugos, had the floorpan and bodyshell of a Fiat 124. The engine and running gear, brakes and suspension were Russian design. And as rugged as hell. I recall an issue with calipers, where a round cylinder was held/pressed into a carrier. Naturally it would stop being round and the piston seize in the bore. They were overhead cam (chain driven), some had Weber carbs. The thermostat was a sophisticated bypass affair. It was fearfully uneconomical! |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:26 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004 - 2014 DIYbanter