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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is)
looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John |
#2
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![]() "John Orrett" wrote in message news ![]() Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John Hi, no disrespect, but your description of the "spec" makes no sense. Could you please check it again and correct your post. 1. A fuse switch is not 30mA. Do you mean an RCD? 2. Should that read 32A or 16A fuse? 3. Should "dual pole circuit breaker" be "dual pole isolating switch" by any chance? 4. Is this an American Spec by any chance? 5. The potential equaliser??? Never heard this expression. Could it be supplementary bonding earth conductor? 6. At least how many sq mm? It sounds like a normal 13A plug/socket will not be appropriate. It sounds like you will need a dedicated radial circuit with a 16A Circuit Breaker and 30mA RCD (if your consumer unit does not already have one). In an appropriate place inside the bathroom there should be a 45A DP Shower pull cord switch with a 3mm contact gap (i.e. the normal type). You will probably need to bond exposed metalwork and the pump unit to the rest of the supplementary bonding in the bathroom with 4mm Sq earth wire. If you don't have proper supplementary bonding in the bathroom (taps, rads, etc) then you need to get that sorted as well. HTH Smudger |
#3
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Smudger wrote:
"John Orrett" wrote in message news ![]() Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John Hi, no disrespect, but your description of the "spec" makes no sense. Could you please check it again and correct your post. 1. A fuse switch is not 30mA. Do you mean an RCD? 2. Should that read 32A or 16A fuse? 3. Should "dual pole circuit breaker" be "dual pole isolating switch" by any chance? 4. Is this an American Spec by any chance? 5. The potential equaliser??? Never heard this expression. Could it be supplementary bonding earth conductor? 6. At least how many sq mm? It sounds like a normal 13A plug/socket will not be appropriate. It sounds like you will need a dedicated radial circuit with a 16A Circuit Breaker and 30mA RCD (if your consumer unit does not already have one). In an appropriate place inside the bathroom there should be a 45A DP Shower pull cord switch with a 3mm contact gap (i.e. the normal type). You will probably need to bond exposed metalwork and the pump unit to the rest of the supplementary bonding in the bathroom with 4mm Sq earth wire. If you don't have proper supplementary bonding in the bathroom (taps, rads, etc) then you need to get that sorted as well. HTH Smudger Hi Smudger, and thanks for the reply. The spec was copied and pasted from a web page. It looks like the Company is from the Netherlands, and although the web page was a UK one, that could explain the strange spec. I didn't realise that there was so much involved. It would seem that a fair bit of re-wiring would need to be done. As we are re-tiling and fitting a new shower as well as the bathroom suite, we may be able to cable down the existing channel from the shower. Appreciate your help, Best wishes, John |
#4
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"John Orrett" wrote
| 2. Should that read 32A or 16A fuse? I think the "31A" was a typo for 13A or 16A | 3. Should "dual pole circuit breaker" be "dual pole isolating | switch" by any chance? In some European countries MCBs are double-pole. A DP switch would certainly be required in the UK, even though / because our MCBs are SP. | As we are re-tiling and fitting a new shower as well | as the bathroom suite, we may be able to cable down the | existing channel from the shower. If this is an electric shower then you must not use the shower circuit to supply any other apparatus. Also, you should be aware when running cables that they must run in permitted zones (up, down, across from visible accessory) or must be mechanically protected. Owain |
#5
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![]() "Owain" wrote in message ... If this is an electric shower then you must not use the shower circuit to supply any other apparatus. The OP was talking about a whirpool bath but the principle is the same. We have the macerator on the same circuit as the bath, both wired to a big wide switch on the wall outside to kill all electrics in the bathroom apart from the lights. Are you saying this is incorrect ? |
#6
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![]() "G&M" wrote in message ... "Owain" wrote in message ... If this is an electric shower then you must not use the shower circuit to supply any other apparatus. The OP was talking about a whirpool bath but the principle is the same. We have the macerator on the same circuit as the bath, both wired to a big wide switch on the wall outside to kill all electrics in the bathroom apart from the lights. Are you saying this is incorrect ? The point I was making is that instantaneous electric showers pull a lot of current. The cable which has been installed to power an electric shower (and the fuse/MCB prtotecting it will most certainly not be big enough to cope with the shower and the spa at the same time. Therefore to do it would not be wise. There is no reason in principle why you can't have a big red switch to kill all power in the bathroom except the lights, providing the circuit has been designed and installed in accrodance with the Wiring Regs, but I can't imagine a scenario where you would include an instantaneous electric shower in such a design, because you would necessarily be into industrial switchgear to do it properly. HTH Smudger |
#7
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Owain wrote:
"John Orrett" wrote 2. Should that read 32A or 16A fuse? I think the "31A" was a typo for 13A or 16A Sorry, Owain, my mistake! 3. Should "dual pole circuit breaker" be "dual pole isolating switch" by any chance? Don't know - I copied that verbatim. As previously mentioned, it turns out that the text originated from a Dutch web page. In some European countries MCBs are double-pole. A DP switch would certainly be required in the UK, even though / because our MCBs are SP. As we are re-tiling and fitting a new shower as well as the bathroom suite, we may be able to cable down the existing channel from the shower. If this is an electric shower then you must not use the shower circuit to supply any other apparatus. Also, you should be aware when running cables that they must run in permitted zones (up, down, across from visible accessory) or must be mechanically protected. Owain Many thanks for the excellent advice Owain, Regards John |
#8
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![]() "John Orrett" wrote in message news ![]() Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! You cannot use a plug socket. You need a dedicated feed from the CU either on the RCD side or (and ?) an external one. Plus the double pole switch mentioned and a bloody reliable earth wire - thicker the better. |
#9
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G&M wrote:
"John Orrett" wrote in message news ![]() Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! You cannot use a plug socket. You need a dedicated feed from the CU either on the RCD side or (and ?) an external one. Plus the double pole switch mentioned and a bloody reliable earth wire - thicker the better. Strangely enough, whilst I was in the plumbers merchants today looking at baths, showers etc., I mentioned to the guy behind the counter about the wiring. No problem he says, I've got one and hooked it up to a double plug socket. Maybe I should point him towards this NG before he does some serious damage! Go figure ..... Cheers John |
#10
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On 2004-08-03, John Orrett wrote:
Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John John, - Saninova bath by Maax? In which case my installer has used our shower circuitry (as we no longer have an electric shower. Downrated the MCB to 16A from 32A (it was powering a 9.x kw electric shower) - a dual pole isolating switch with a 5A fuse is in line with the pump on the bath (as the total draw on the motor to the whirlpool is ~200W so 5A is *plenty* and allows for any inrush). It being the shower circuit it already had a ceiling mounted 45A pull switch that breaks the circuit - which is nice as we have a toddler who seems to like to press buttons. The bath does have a "no water" protection against this - but the total isolation is nice ![]() The whole CU is protected by an RCD of sufficient sensitivity to cope with the needs of the whirlpool kit anyway. Have to say - he was quite suprised how cryptic the information was about it - but when he actually sat and worked it through - it all made sense ![]() though. We'll be putting a pump on the HW side in the cupboard with the water tank tho as our hot flow is a little bit **** poor - so the bath takes a good while to fill ![]() Cheers Dan. |
#11
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Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote:
On 2004-08-03, John Orrett wrote: Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John John, - Saninova bath by Maax? Exactly !! snip Cheers Dan. Thanks for that Dan. We still have our shower (we actually want to upgrade to a power shower) as I like a shower wheras my missus likes a bath. Someone has recommended a decent spark, although he's on holiday at the moment. He should be able to sort things out. I have warned my good lady that there may be plastering/redecorating required :-) Cheers John |
#12
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On 2004-08-04, John Orrett wrote:
Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote: On 2004-08-03, John Orrett wrote: Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John John, - Saninova bath by Maax? Exactly !! Bloody marvellous bit of kit. Got ours from Plumbworld (the P shaped shower bath with curved glass screen) and it's fantastic. So light and seems very strong - plus the kit is all pre-installed ![]() Thanks for that Dan. We still have our shower (we actually want to upgrade to a power shower) as I like a shower wheras my missus likes a bath. Someone has recommended a decent spark, although he's on holiday at the moment. He should be able to sort things out. I have warned my good lady that there may be plastering/redecorating required :-) Hmmmm - not sure about showers anymore - they seem to fall into 2 categories. 1 - fine water jet that goes all over the place and is either too cold or red hot - or 2 - far too much water all over the place either too hot or too cold. Our plumber suggested an Aqualisa (sp?) but I wasn't convinved - thus we went for taps on the wall - a shower off the tap supply - and will add a pump later when we can be bothered. Wife and I are both soak in the bath types and the shower is more for washing hair and the odd visitor - so if we don't get round to the pump - it's not really a problem ;-) I just wanted the space a shower bath gives as I'm a lanky bugger and most normal shape/size baths you can't soak in when you are ~6ft 5 ![]() Best of luck with it - and yes decorating will be required. I'm currently tiling. All I can say is "BLOODY MOSAIC TILES - never again" Cheers Dan. |
#13
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Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote:
On 2004-08-04, John Orrett wrote: Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote: On 2004-08-03, John Orrett wrote: Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John John, - Saninova bath by Maax? Exactly !! Bloody marvellous bit of kit. Got ours from Plumbworld (the P shaped shower bath with curved glass screen) and it's fantastic. So light and seems very strong - plus the kit is all pre-installed ![]() Thanks for that Dan. We still have our shower (we actually want to upgrade to a power shower) as I like a shower wheras my missus likes a bath. Someone has recommended a decent spark, although he's on holiday at the moment. He should be able to sort things out. I have warned my good lady that there may be plastering/redecorating required :-) Hmmmm - not sure about showers anymore - they seem to fall into 2 categories. 1 - fine water jet that goes all over the place and is either too cold or red hot - or 2 - far too much water all over the place either too hot or too cold. Our plumber suggested an Aqualisa (sp?) but I wasn't convinved - thus we went for taps on the wall - a shower off the tap supply - and will add a pump later when we can be bothered. Wife and I are both soak in the bath types and the shower is more for washing hair and the odd visitor - so if we don't get round to the pump - it's not really a problem ;-) I just wanted the space a shower bath gives as I'm a lanky bugger and most normal shape/size baths you can't soak in when you are ~6ft 5 ![]() Best of luck with it - and yes decorating will be required. I'm currently tiling. All I can say is "BLOODY MOSAIC TILES - never again" Cheers Dan. LOL. Thanks for the comments Dan, :-) Cheers John |
#14
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Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote:
On 2004-08-04, John Orrett wrote: Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote: On 2004-08-03, John Orrett wrote: Hi all; my missus wants a new bathroom suite, and we are (sorry - she is) looking at a whirlpool spa type thingy bath. I'm just wondering about the electricity needed for the pump. The nearest electricity is next door in my daughter's bedroom through a normal plug socket. The spec says that it must be protected by a fuse switch (30 mA) by a 31A or 16A fuse. Furthermore, this circuit must contain a dual-pole circuit breaker with a contact aperture of at least 3-mm. The potential equiliser (at least mm squared) is to be connected to the motor plate. At this last bit, all I saw was white noise :-). Our local friendly plumber will hook up the power to the pump but won't fix the wiring. Question is - is it OK to feed this out of a normal plug socket or does it need something meatier? I'll be getting a local spark in to do the job needless to say! Thanks John John, - Saninova bath by Maax? Exactly !! Bloody marvellous bit of kit. Got ours from Plumbworld (the P shaped shower bath with curved glass screen) and it's fantastic. So light and seems very strong - plus the kit is all pre-installed ![]() Hi Dan - forgot to ask. I saw that in our local Taskers DIY store, but there did not appear to be any sealing between the curved shower screen and the bath. No rubber strip or anything. Is that standard, and I presume if there isn't, it doesn't leak everywhere? Thanks, John |
#15
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On 2004-08-04, John Orrett wrote:
Bloody marvellous bit of kit. Got ours from Plumbworld (the P shaped shower bath with curved glass screen) and it's fantastic. So light and seems very strong - plus the kit is all pre-installed ![]() Hi Dan - forgot to ask. I saw that in our local Taskers DIY store, but there did not appear to be any sealing between the curved shower screen and the bath. No rubber strip or anything. Is that standard, and I presume if there isn't, it doesn't leak everywhere? The glass screen comes with an expanded ruber gasket like thing that sits on the bottom - plus - the edge of the bth at that point is fluted upwards at teh edge so run off won't be a problem. Cheers Dan. |
#16
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"John Orrett" wrote
| Thanks for that Dan. We still have our shower (we actually want to | upgrade to a power shower) as I like a shower wheras my missus | likes a bath. A *power shower* is okay, as that only requires a small amount of electricity for the pump. But a 10kW instantaneous shower fully loads a 40A circuit. Owain |
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