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[email protected] April 22nd 19 07:21 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C.

Cheers


NT

newshound April 22nd 19 10:01 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
On 22/04/2019 19:21, wrote:
Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C.

Cheers


NT

I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like
limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on
the "water" side.

[email protected] April 22nd 19 10:16 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote:


Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C.

Cheers


NT

I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like
limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on
the "water" side.


We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better.

I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable.


NT

Brian Gaff April 23rd 19 08:09 AM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
This rust problem in a bearing is much like you get on older washing machine
drum bearings, and often its cheaper to replace the lot.
If you think its limescale and its a kill or cure time then try squirting
some of the stuff you descale things with up its bum, so to speak.
Sometimes works for taps.

I'd have no idea how it comes apart, but surely it must have been put
together and unless its some kind of made in situe system there has to be a
way.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
wrote in message
...
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote:


Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed
it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal
otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would
then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly
firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm
carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but
suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm
not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the
thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is
there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under
2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80
degrees C.

Cheers


NT

I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like
limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on
the "water" side.


We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I
read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in
water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable
do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to
grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while.
Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better.

I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I
thought I'd see if it's fixable.


NT



newshound April 23rd 19 09:27 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
On 22/04/2019 22:16, wrote:
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote:


Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C.

Cheers


NT

I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like
limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on
the "water" side.


We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better.

I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable.


NT

Assuming the replacement won't take long, for a temporary fix I would be
soaking the whole lot in penetrating oil to get the friction down, and
not worrying about a bit of leakage. Grease is not going to prevent that
anyway, with two bar behind it.

newshound April 23rd 19 09:28 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
On 23/04/2019 08:09, Brian Gaff wrote:
This rust problem in a bearing is much like you get on older washing machine
drum bearings, and often its cheaper to replace the lot.
If you think its limescale and its a kill or cure time then try squirting
some of the stuff you descale things with up its bum, so to speak.
Sometimes works for taps.

I'd have no idea how it comes apart, but surely it must have been put
together and unless its some kind of made in situe system there has to be a
way.
Brian

It may well have been assembled axially, and the top then swaged over to
hold it together.

newshound April 23rd 19 09:30 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
On 23/04/2019 21:27, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 22:16, wrote:
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshoundÂ* wrote:
On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote:


Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've
freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber
seal otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft
would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on
it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is
peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way
to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be
disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into
the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped
on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest?
It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot
water upto 80 degrees C.

Cheers


NT

I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like
limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on
the "water" side.


We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks
unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring
failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion.
But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the
thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the
water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O
ring would be a lot better.

I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so
I thought I'd see if it's fixable.


NT

Assuming the replacement won't take long, for a temporary fix I would be
soaking the whole lot in penetrating oil to get the friction down, and
not worrying about a bit of leakage. Grease is not going to prevent that
anyway, with two bar behind it.


Correction, a bit less than one bar if it's two storeys.

[email protected] April 23rd 19 09:43 PM

Repairing 3 way valve
 
On Tuesday, 23 April 2019 21:27:25 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 22:16, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote:


Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur.

This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball:
http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg

Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how.

If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C.

Cheers


NT

I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like
limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on
the "water" side.


We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely.. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better.

I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable.


NT

Assuming the replacement won't take long, for a temporary fix I would be
soaking the whole lot in penetrating oil to get the friction down, and
not worrying about a bit of leakage. Grease is not going to prevent that
anyway, with two bar behind it.


I've got it moving well enough, so no need for whatsit oil. The grease should remain coating the metal better than oil under that pressure I'd think. I've got some red rubber grease but ran out of tuits, so will try impregnation tomorrow hopefully.


NT


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