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#1
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Repairing 3 way valve
Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur.
This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball: http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how. If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C. Cheers NT |
#3
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Repairing 3 way valve
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote: Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur. This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball: http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how. If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C. Cheers NT I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on the "water" side. We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better. I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable. NT |
#4
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Repairing 3 way valve
This rust problem in a bearing is much like you get on older washing machine
drum bearings, and often its cheaper to replace the lot. If you think its limescale and its a kill or cure time then try squirting some of the stuff you descale things with up its bum, so to speak. Sometimes works for taps. I'd have no idea how it comes apart, but surely it must have been put together and unless its some kind of made in situe system there has to be a way. Brian -- ----- -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! wrote in message ... On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote: On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote: Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur. This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball: http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how. If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C. Cheers NT I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on the "water" side. We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better. I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable. NT |
#5
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Repairing 3 way valve
On 22/04/2019 22:16, wrote:
On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote: On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote: Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur. This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball: http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how. If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C. Cheers NT I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on the "water" side. We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better. I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable. NT Assuming the replacement won't take long, for a temporary fix I would be soaking the whole lot in penetrating oil to get the friction down, and not worrying about a bit of leakage. Grease is not going to prevent that anyway, with two bar behind it. |
#6
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Repairing 3 way valve
On 23/04/2019 08:09, Brian Gaff wrote:
This rust problem in a bearing is much like you get on older washing machine drum bearings, and often its cheaper to replace the lot. If you think its limescale and its a kill or cure time then try squirting some of the stuff you descale things with up its bum, so to speak. Sometimes works for taps. I'd have no idea how it comes apart, but surely it must have been put together and unless its some kind of made in situe system there has to be a way. Brian It may well have been assembled axially, and the top then swaged over to hold it together. |
#7
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Repairing 3 way valve
On 23/04/2019 21:27, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 22:16, wrote: On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshoundÂ* wrote: On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote: Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur. This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball: http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how. If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C. Cheers NT I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on the "water" side. We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better. I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable. NT Assuming the replacement won't take long, for a temporary fix I would be soaking the whole lot in penetrating oil to get the friction down, and not worrying about a bit of leakage. Grease is not going to prevent that anyway, with two bar behind it. Correction, a bit less than one bar if it's two storeys. |
#8
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Repairing 3 way valve
On Tuesday, 23 April 2019 21:27:25 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 22/04/2019 22:16, tabbypurr wrote: On Monday, 22 April 2019 22:01:53 UTC+1, newshound wrote: On 22/04/2019 19:21, tabbypurr wrote: Honeywell 3 way valve for plan Y. It's shaft was very stiff, I've freed it by waggling but need to disassemble & replace the rubber seal otherwise the problem will just recur. This is the plate carrying the shaft & ball: http://i63.tinypic.com/drco5l.jpg Have removed circlip from topside of shaft, and assumed the shaft would then drop out the bottom. But no joy, even hammering down on it fairly firmly it won't budge. The bottom end of the shaft is peened to the arm carrying the ball, so I'm asking if there's a way to remove it but suspect the worst. I assume it must be disassemblable somehow, but I'm not seeing how. If it proves impossible, I'm thinking of trying forcing grease into the thing from the top using a grease gun & flexible tube clamped on. Is there any particular grease that would stay in place longest? It's under 2 storeys of water pressure, and runs primary circuit hot water upto 80 degrees C. Cheers NT I don't think grease will work. I imagine the problem is something like limescale or magnetite taking up all the clearance around the spindle on the "water" side. We won't really know unless I get the thing apart, which looks unlikely.. I read elsewhere that the problem was a rubber O ring failing, resulting in water getting to the shaft & causing corrosion. But if it's not dismantlable do they in fact know that. Either way the thing moves ok now, I just need to grease it to (I hope) keep the water away from it for a fair while. Obviously disassemble & new O ring would be a lot better. I already bought a replacement, but it was faulty & is going back, so I thought I'd see if it's fixable. NT Assuming the replacement won't take long, for a temporary fix I would be soaking the whole lot in penetrating oil to get the friction down, and not worrying about a bit of leakage. Grease is not going to prevent that anyway, with two bar behind it. I've got it moving well enough, so no need for whatsit oil. The grease should remain coating the metal better than oil under that pressure I'd think. I've got some red rubber grease but ran out of tuits, so will try impregnation tomorrow hopefully. NT |
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