I've been looking at the Hive systems to control CH, including hot
water. We've a modern gas powered system with basic timer and
thermostat at the moment. Timer is fitted on, what (as far as I can
tell) is the 'standard' backplate for such things.

Looking at the various videos etc., it seems you should be able to just
remove the existing timer from the standard backplate, clip on a Hive
gizmo, set up the rest of the system (plugging things in, pressing
buttons etc) and off you go.

However, what about the old thermostat? Doesn't that need to be
disconnected?

Also, I know someone who moved into a house with a system which, while
it basically worked, the previous owner had taken part of the system (I
think the hub) with them. Looking on the net, this seems to be the
habit- take your hub with you as it is set up to your profile. (Life
patterns if you will.) You can, of course, buy a hub if you move to a
house with a missing hub. Is this correct, please? (No plans to move
etc, I'm just trying to understand how it all works.)




--

Smile for the camera ;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxyL2_38EsQ

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud

https://www.jobcentreguide.org/claim...-benefit-fraud

https://childsworldamerica.org/anima...o-child-abuse/

We had Hive fitted when we had a new boiler fitted in Feb. I didnt actually do it as I just paid for the system and the guy installing the boiler added £30 on top for fitting Hive.

I dont think our old controller/timer used a standard backplate so it had to be swapped for the Hive one. It is my understanding that if we were to switch in the future, any new system should just clip on (assuming the current backplate is still the standard and the replacement uses it).

Our old thermostat was a Danfoss wireless unit which had its receiver next to the wiring centre in the airing cupboard. I fitted this many years ago. This was completely removed as part of fitting Hive.

My MIL had Hive. When she moved BG (who fitted it for her) told her to take the hub but leave the thermostat/programmer and the receiver.

We had a bit of trouble setting ours up. The installed normally fitted Nest and was his first time doing Hive. The thermostat looked like it was connected but the heating wouldnt turn off when it reached temp. I had to contact BG. The removed the devices and we went through the process if adding them again. Worked fine since then.

Alan

On 24/10/2018 16:19, Brian Reay wrote:
I've been looking at the Hive systems to control CH, including hot
water.Â* We've a modern gas powered system with basic timer and
thermostat at the moment. Timer is fitted on, what (as far as I can
tell) is the 'standard' backplate for such things.

Looking at the various videos etc., it seems you should be able to just
remove the existing timer from the standard backplate, clip on a Hive
gizmo, set up the rest of the system (plugging things in, pressing
buttons etc) and off you go.

However, what about the old thermostat? Doesn't that need to be
disconnected?


I've been using a Hive for a while now. On mine, the old thermostat was
powered, and the sender/receiver replaces that. The thermostat is a
standalone mount-where-you-like battery powered wireless unit (still on
the same 4 AAs 2+ years on). Mine's one of these:

http://www.homecrux.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Hive-2-Smart-Thermostat-by-Yves-B%C3%A9har_3.jpg

Also, I know someone who moved into a house with a system which, while
it basically worked, the previous owner had taken part of the system (I
think the hub) with them.Â* Looking on the net, this seems to be the
habit- take your hub with you as it is set up to your profile. (Life
patterns if you will.) You can, of course, buy a hub if you move to a
house with a missing hub.Â* Is this correct, please?Â* (No plans to move
etc, I'm just trying to understand how it all works.)


If I moved I'd probably take it with me, and replace the sender with a
basic thermostat - it cost a few quid after all. I did get mine at quite
a discount on one of those black days - coming up in November I think
,so might be worth waiting.


--
Cheers, Rob

I fitted one myself. It would have fitted the backplate with a bit of a push, but I decided to change
the backplate for the near identical Hive one supplied, a trivial job. Initially I kept the existing wireless thermostat and just turned it to maximum, but later disconnected it.

John

I installed Hive last year, as someone has already said the thermostat is wireless and clips to a backplate that can be situated wherever convenient. The receiver simply replaced the previous programmable thermostat. Like someone else I initially found it would not work turned out the zero volt switch needed a live supply which just involved a short wire from one connection to another within the receiver and all was well, the installation instructions did not make it clear that for my boiler this was required. Have been very happy with it since even got Alexa to switch it on/off.

Richard

On 24/10/2018 19:29, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I installed Hive last year, as someone has already said the thermostat is wireless and clips to a backplate that can be situated wherever convenient. The receiver simply replaced the previous programmable thermostat. Like someone else I initially found it would not work turned out the zero volt switch needed a live supply which just involved a short wire from one connection to another within the receiver and all was well, the installation instructions did not make it clear that for my boiler this was required. Have been very happy with it since even got Alexa to switch it on/off.

Richard

Thank you and the others who have responded.

You mentioned Alexa, which brings to mind another question.

How dependent is the system on the internet working externally? Eg, if
you link to the internet goes down, do things like the one off cycles
still work? (I accept remote functions won't- I'm thinking of preset
timers).

I ask as, while our internet is actually reliable, Alexa does 'fall
over' from time to time. This causes minor issues with things 'she'
controls- some lights etc. However, for the heating, it could be more
irritating.



--

Smile for the camera ;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxyL2_38EsQ

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud

https://www.jobcentreguide.org/claim...-benefit-fraud

https://childsworldamerica.org/anima...o-child-abuse/

Has anyone tried any of these via the home assistants like echo or Google
etc?
Even the smart phone system.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"JohnW" wrote in message
...
I fitted one myself. It would have fitted the backplate with a bit of a
push, but I decided to change
the backplate for the near identical Hive one supplied, a trivial job.
Initially I kept the existing wireless thermostat and just turned it to
maximum, but later disconnected it.

John

Brian Gaff wrote

Has anyone tried any of these via the home
assistants like echo or Google etc?
Even the smart phone system.

Yep, I use both, to control most stuff now, including lights
too when a human detector isnt enough by itself.

"JohnW" wrote in message
...
I fitted one myself. It would have fitted the backplate with a bit of a
push, but I decided to change
the backplate for the near identical Hive one supplied, a trivial job.
Initially I kept the existing wireless thermostat and just turned it to
maximum, but later disconnected it.

John

On 24/10/18 19:29, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I installed Hive last year, as someone has already said the thermostat is wireless and clips to a backplate that can be situated wherever convenient. The receiver simply replaced the previous programmable thermostat. Like someone else I initially found it would not work turned out the zero volt switch needed a live supply which just involved a short wire from one connection to another within the receiver

For what it's worth, that's a pretty common thing you have to do (at
least in my smallish experience

and all was well, the installation instructions did not make it clear that for my boiler this was required. Have been very happy with it since even got Alexa to switch it on/off.

Richard

On Thu, 25 Oct 2018 06:08:26 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Has anyone tried any of these via the home
assistants like echo or Google etc?
Even the smart phone system.

Yep, I use both, to control most stuff now, including lights
too when a human detector isnt enough by itself.

Of COURSE you do, you got NO ONE ELSE to talk to other than your electronic
gadgets! That much is clear by now, senile Rot!

--
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp addressing Rot Speed:
"You really are a clueless pillock."
MID:

On 24/10/2018 19:44, Brian Gaff wrote:
Has anyone tried any of these via the home assistants like echo or Google
etc?
Even the smart phone system.
Brian


We use Alexa to control some lights and a few of those plug in things
which we use with an electric blanket or fan etc.

I bought some of the Ikea 'smart' bulbs which are Alexa compatible. If
you have an Echo, as we do, you just need to buy the bulbs, not the
control gizmo. Then you can control it from the Echo or a Dot (the
smaller one). You can also control them from 'anywhere' with the mobile
phone app- useful for security.

Alexa isn't perfect. Sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to, say,
turn a light on or off. We noticed when we had a visitor with a strong
US accent a week or so back, Alexa really struggled.

An acquaintance who is visually impaired was telling us he finds it very
useful. Things like radio, audio books etc I believe. I'm not sure he
uses it to control things. We tend not to use ours for radio- I prefer
DAB or internet radio. Sometimes we use the music.

We've and Echo and a Dot. A couple more would be nice so we can control
a few things from other rooms.

--
Always smile when walking, you never know where there is a camera ;-)

Remarkable Coincidences:
The Stock Market Crashes of 1929 and 2008 happened on the same
date in October. In Oct 1907, a run on the Knickerbocker Trust
Company led to the Great Depression.

On 24/10/2018 21:30, Brian Reay wrote:
On 24/10/2018 19:44, Brian Gaff wrote:
Has anyone tried any of these via the home assistants like echo or Google
etc?
Â* Even the smart phone system.
Â* Brian


We use Alexa to control some lights and a few of those plug in things
which we use with an electric blanket or fan etc.


+1 - seems to work well. Also a Sonos One.

I bought some of the Ikea 'smart' bulbs which are Alexa compatible. If
you have an Echo, as we do, you just need to buy the bulbs, not the
control gizmo.

ITYM Echo Plus?


--
Cheers, Rob

You mentioned Alexa, which brings to mind another question.

How dependent is the system on the internet working externally? Eg, if
you link to the internet goes down, do things like the one off cycles
still work? (I accept remote functions won't- I'm thinking of preset
timers).

I ask as, while our internet is actually reliable, Alexa does 'fall
over' from time to time. This causes minor issues with things 'she'
controls- some lights etc. However, for the heating, it could be more
irritating.


I havent actually tried it but my understanding is that the schedule is stored on the thermostat so if there is no internet connection, it continues to work.

I beleive that it is possible to setup the schedule on the thermostat but again, I havent tried this as its very easy to do it via the web site (and probably easier too).

On 25/10/2018 07:55, RJH wrote:
On 24/10/2018 21:30, Brian Reay wrote:
On 24/10/2018 19:44, Brian Gaff wrote:
Has anyone tried any of these via the home assistants like echo or
Google
etc?
Â* Even the smart phone system.
Â* Brian


We use Alexa to control some lights and a few of those plug in things
which we use with an electric blanket or fan etc.


+1 - seems to work well. Also a Sonos One.

I bought some of the Ikea 'smart' bulbs which are Alexa compatible. If
you have an Echo, as we do, you just need to buy the bulbs, not the
control gizmo.

ITYM Echo Plus?



Yes.

On 24/10/2018 16:19, Brian Reay wrote:
I've been looking at the Hive systems to control CH, including hot
water. We've a modern gas powered system with basic timer and thermostat
at the moment. Timer is fitted on, what (as far as I can tell) is the
'standard' backplate for such things.

Looking at the various videos etc., it seems you should be able to just
remove the existing timer from the standard backplate, clip on a Hive
gizmo, set up the rest of the system (plugging things in, pressing
buttons etc) and off you go.

However, what about the old thermostat? Doesn't that need to be
disconnected?

Also, I know someone who moved into a house with a system which, while
it basically worked, the previous owner had taken part of the system (I
think the hub) with them. Looking on the net, this seems to be the
habit- take your hub with you as it is set up to your profile. (Life
patterns if you will.) You can, of course, buy a hub if you move to a
house with a missing hub. Is this correct, please? (No plans to move
etc, I'm just trying to understand how it all works.)



I've fitted two - one at my holiday flat and one at my main home.

The holiday flat has two zones - one for the radiators and the other for
the hot water cylinder, forming an S-Plan system. Before I fitted the
Hive there was a 2-channel programmer on a standard backplate = and a
wireless programmable room stat.

The Hive receiver fitted straight onto the existing backplate (I checked
that the connections were correct) and worked straight away. I removed
the wireless thermostat and linked it out in the wiring centre.

My main home has three zones - radiators, UFH in the kitchen, and hot
water, forming an S+ Plan system. Before Hive, the radiator zone had a
wired programmable thermostat, the UFH had a wireless programmable stat
and HW had a (mechanical) cylinder stat.

The recommended Hive approach was to use a multi-zone system comprising
a Hive heating and HW system for one heating zone + HW, plus a separate
Hive thermostat and receiver for the other heating zone. But I took a
different approach. I left the existing programmable stats in place, and
connected them in series with the Hive system. My main reason for
wanting Hive was to be able to turn the heating on and off remotely. To
achieve this, I have the Hive heating zone set to manual and set the
temperature to Max (32 degrees) for ON and Frost (7 degrees) for OFF.
Actual temperature control is performed by the Honeywell wireless stats.
[They do a better job than Hive anyway because they work on a P-I-D
basis, and have far less temperature overshoot.

A few more random thoughts about Hive ...

Be aware the the 2-channel (Heating and HW) and single channel (Heating
only - aimed at combi boilers) receivers work differently from each
other. The single channel one has a voltage-free change-over relay which
can be used to switch anything you like - including low voltage if
that's what your boiler needs. The dual channel receiver can *only* be
used to switch mains devices. It has two change-over relays - one for
each channel - but their COM terminals are internally connected to
Permanent Live, and are not accessible.

A Hive system can be controlled in three different ways - directly via
its wireless thermostat, remotely using a web browser on a PC, or
remotely using a smartphone app. They are not identical in capability.
In my view, the web browser route provides the easiest interface and the
greatest capability - but the phone app is useful when you don't have
access to a computer. Doing things directly on the thermostat is a bit
cumbersome - but will still work even if the internet fails.

The Hive wireless thermostat is intended to be mounted on a wall, and is
supplied with a wall plate (no wires, of course) for the purpose.
Alternatively, you can buy a grossly over-priced desk stand if you want
to move the stat from room to room. With both of my systems I have made
my own desk stands - using two pieces of wood in an inverted T
configuration, with the wall plate screwed to the upright in order to
attach the stat to the stand.

Hope some of the above may be useful.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 25/10/2018 20:13, Roger Mills wrote:
On 24/10/2018 16:19, Brian Reay wrote:
I've been looking at the Hive systems to control CH, including hot
water. We've a modern gas powered system with basic timer and thermostat
at the moment. Timer is fitted on, what (as far as I can tell) is the
'standard' backplate for such things.

Looking at the various videos etc., it seems you should be able to just
remove the existing timer from the standard backplate, clip on a Hive
gizmo, set up the rest of the system (plugging things in, pressing
buttons etc) and off you go.

However, what about the old thermostat? Doesn't that need to be
disconnected?

Also, I know someone who moved into a house with a system which, while
it basically worked, the previous owner had taken part of the system (I
think the hub) with them. Looking on the net, this seems to be the
habit- take your hub with you as it is set up to your profile. (Life
patterns if you will.) You can, of course, buy a hub if you move to a
house with a missing hub. Is this correct, please? (No plans to move
etc, I'm just trying to understand how it all works.)



I've fitted two - one at my holiday flat and one at my main home.

The holiday flat has two zones - one for the radiators and the other for
the hot water cylinder, forming an S-Plan system. Before I fitted the
Hive there was a 2-channel programmer on a standard backplate = and a
wireless programmable room stat.

The Hive receiver fitted straight onto the existing backplate (I checked
that the connections were correct) and worked straight away. I removed
the wireless thermostat and linked it out in the wiring centre.

My main home has three zones - radiators, UFH in the kitchen, and hot
water, forming an S+ Plan system. Before Hive, the radiator zone had a
wired programmable thermostat, the UFH had a wireless programmable stat
and HW had a (mechanical) cylinder stat.

The recommended Hive approach was to use a multi-zone system comprising
a Hive heating and HW system for one heating zone + HW, plus a separate
Hive thermostat and receiver for the other heating zone. But I took a
different approach. I left the existing programmable stats in place, and
connected them in series with the Hive system. My main reason for
wanting Hive was to be able to turn the heating on and off remotely. To
achieve this, I have the Hive heating zone set to manual and set the
temperature to Max (32 degrees) for ON and Frost (7 degrees) for OFF.
Actual temperature control is performed by the Honeywell wireless stats.
[They do a better job than Hive anyway because they work on a P-I-D
basis, and have far less temperature overshoot.

A few more random thoughts about Hive ...

Be aware the the 2-channel (Heating and HW) and single channel (Heating
only - aimed at combi boilers) receivers work differently from each
other. The single channel one has a voltage-free change-over relay which
can be used to switch anything you like - including low voltage if
that's what your boiler needs. The dual channel receiver can *only* be
used to switch mains devices. It has two change-over relays - one for
each channel - but their COM terminals are internally connected to
Permanent Live, and are not accessible.

A Hive system can be controlled in three different ways - directly via
its wireless thermostat, remotely using a web browser on a PC, or
remotely using a smartphone app. They are not identical in capability.
In my view, the web browser route provides the easiest interface and the
greatest capability - but the phone app is useful when you don't have
access to a computer. Doing things directly on the thermostat is a bit
cumbersome - but will still work even if the internet fails.

The Hive wireless thermostat is intended to be mounted on a wall, and is
supplied with a wall plate (no wires, of course) for the purpose.
Alternatively, you can buy a grossly over-priced desk stand if you want
to move the stat from room to room. With both of my systems I have made
my own desk stands - using two pieces of wood in an inverted T
configuration, with the wall plate screwed to the upright in order to
attach the stat to the stand.

Hope some of the above may be useful.


Thank you.

At the moment I'm just looking at our main house which is a 2 channel
system with a wired room stat. (I avoided a wireless one as it worked on
a frequency in the amateur band.)


The remote operation appeals for various reasons- both via Alexa and
mobile phone.


--
Always smile when walking, you never know where there is a camera ;-)

Remarkable Coincidences:
The Stock Market Crashes of 1929 and 2008 happened on the same
date in October. In Oct 1907, a run on the Knickerbocker Trust
Company led to the Great Depression.

Brian Reay Wrote in message:
On 25/10/2018 20:13, Roger Mills wrote:
On 24/10/2018 16:19, Brian Reay wrote:
I've been looking at the Hive systems to control CH, including hot
water. We've a modern gas powered system with basic timer and thermostat
at the moment. Timer is fitted on, what (as far as I can tell) is the
'standard' backplate for such things.

Looking at the various videos etc., it seems you should be able to just
remove the existing timer from the standard backplate, clip on a Hive
gizmo, set up the rest of the system (plugging things in, pressing
buttons etc) and off you go.

However, what about the old thermostat? Doesn't that need to be
disconnected?

Also, I know someone who moved into a house with a system which, while
it basically worked, the previous owner had taken part of the system (I
think the hub) with them. Looking on the net, this seems to be the
habit- take your hub with you as it is set up to your profile. (Life
patterns if you will.) You can, of course, buy a hub if you move to a
house with a missing hub. Is this correct, please? (No plans to move
etc, I'm just trying to understand how it all works.)



I've fitted two - one at my holiday flat and one at my main home.

The holiday flat has two zones - one for the radiators and the other for
the hot water cylinder, forming an S-Plan system. Before I fitted the
Hive there was a 2-channel programmer on a standard backplate = and a
wireless programmable room stat.

The Hive receiver fitted straight onto the existing backplate (I checked
that the connections were correct) and worked straight away. I removed
the wireless thermostat and linked it out in the wiring centre.

My main home has three zones - radiators, UFH in the kitchen, and hot
water, forming an S+ Plan system. Before Hive, the radiator zone had a
wired programmable thermostat, the UFH had a wireless programmable stat
and HW had a (mechanical) cylinder stat.

The recommended Hive approach was to use a multi-zone system comprising
a Hive heating and HW system for one heating zone + HW, plus a separate
Hive thermostat and receiver for the other heating zone. But I took a
different approach. I left the existing programmable stats in place, and
connected them in series with the Hive system. My main reason for
wanting Hive was to be able to turn the heating on and off remotely. To
achieve this, I have the Hive heating zone set to manual and set the
temperature to Max (32 degrees) for ON and Frost (7 degrees) for OFF.
Actual temperature control is performed by the Honeywell wireless stats.
[They do a better job than Hive anyway because they work on a P-I-D
basis, and have far less temperature overshoot.

A few more random thoughts about Hive ...

Be aware the the 2-channel (Heating and HW) and single channel (Heating
only - aimed at combi boilers) receivers work differently from each
other. The single channel one has a voltage-free change-over relay which
can be used to switch anything you like - including low voltage if
that's what your boiler needs. The dual channel receiver can *only* be
used to switch mains devices. It has two change-over relays - one for
each channel - but their COM terminals are internally connected to
Permanent Live, and are not accessible.

A Hive system can be controlled in three different ways - directly via
its wireless thermostat, remotely using a web browser on a PC, or
remotely using a smartphone app. They are not identical in capability.
In my view, the web browser route provides the easiest interface and the
greatest capability - but the phone app is useful when you don't have
access to a computer. Doing things directly on the thermostat is a bit
cumbersome - but will still work even if the internet fails.

The Hive wireless thermostat is intended to be mounted on a wall, and is
supplied with a wall plate (no wires, of course) for the purpose.
Alternatively, you can buy a grossly over-priced desk stand if you want
to move the stat from room to room. With both of my systems I have made
my own desk stands - using two pieces of wood in an inverted T
configuration, with the wall plate screwed to the upright in order to
attach the stat to the stand.

Hope some of the above may be useful.


Thank you.

At the moment I'm just looking at our main house which is a 2 channel
system with a wired room stat. (I avoided a wireless one as it worked on
a frequency in the amateur band.)


The remote operation appeals for various reasons- both via Alexa and
mobile phone.


I installed a similar type of system from Heat Genius summer 2017.

It's basically a system put together from commercially available Z
Wave gear, with their software to control it all.

An attraction for me is that it doesn't rely on a remote server.
They do have a server , which makes logging in remotely easier
(especially if you ahvr a dynamic IP address) and provides some
services, but it will run quite happily without access to the
server, and you can login directly using your home IP
address.

It also has things like controllable TRV's which can be useful in
some situations. Though lots would get expensive.

It doesn't have native Alexa integration, though you can set this
up via IFTTT, but really I've not found the need for lots of
controlling it at home, and if I do I use the app

--
Chris French