I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone, overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

George

George Miles submitted this idea :
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone, overhanging on
3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

George

Drill a hole or holes (very carefully) in the face of the stone
intended to fit to the wall, use plugs and stainless screws partially
screwed in, then matching holes in the top of the wall to accept the
heads. Sand and cement into place as normal, between stone and top of
wall.

Once set, it will not move.

On 21/09/2018 10:16, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
George Miles submitted this idea :
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which* want to cap with stone,
overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

George

Drill a hole or holes (very carefully) in the face of the stone intended
to fit to the wall, use plugs and stainless screws partially screwed in,
then matching holes in the top of the wall to accept the heads. Sand and
cement into place as normal, between stone and top of wall.

Once set, it will not move.

Might be easier to screw a hip iron to the wall _under_ the capping,
albeit more intrusive visually as most are designed to go under the top
course.

Might be a useful place to hang coats though



--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

George Miles Wrote in message:
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone, overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

George


Threaded galvanized rods (Toolsatan etc) 10 or 12mm diameter.
Cut into 3inch lengths w angle grinder, hacksaw whatever.
Drill oversize holes in top course of wall and corresponding
oversize holes in cap stone bases.

Butter well ("gob up") the metal bits and holes with mortar as
well as normal mortar bed under rest of stones and lob it all
together.
--
--
Jim K


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In article ,
George Miles wrote:
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone,
overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

The party wall in the roof of my Victorian semi is like that.

At the bottom end, there is a carved stone which replaces a few bricks and
has the coping stone as part of it. Wouldn't be difficult to make some
shuttering and cast one up from concrete.

--
*Preserve wildlife - Go pickle a squirrel*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

There are several stairs outside my mother's place that have that exact arrangement except the wall levels out at the end and the last capping stone is set horizontal, this seems to do the job. I know there are no other fixings as I saw them do the cappings.

Richard

Tricky Dicky Wrote in message:
There are several stairs outside my mother's place that have that exact arrangement except the wall levels out at the end and the last capping stone is set horizontal, this seems to do the job. I know there are no other fixings as I saw them do the cappings.

Richard


A "kneeler" iirc

--
--
Jim K


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"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
George Miles wrote:
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone,
overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

The party wall in the roof of my Victorian semi is like that.

At the bottom end, there is a carved stone which replaces a few bricks and
has the coping stone as part of it. Wouldn't be difficult to make some
shuttering and cast one up from concrete.


Would be difficult to avoid making it look ****e though... aiui
it's not up on a roof...
--
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 21/09/2018 10:54, Tricky Dicky wrote:
There are several stairs outside my mother's place that have that exact arrangement except the wall levels out at the end and the last capping stone is set horizontal, this seems to do the job. I know there are no other fixings as I saw them do the cappings.

Richard


As on the parapet walls on rooves of this and many other Victorian
terraces around here. But I thought it'd be OTT to suggest the OP
rebuild the wall so the last bit didn't slope.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

As on the parapet walls on rooves of this and many other Victorian
terraces around here. But I thought it'd be OTT to suggest the OP
rebuild the wall so the last bit didn't slope.

He would not have to rebuild the entire wall just put in a couple of courses at the end of that slope to leave a horizontal end and set one capping stone on top, or "kneeler" as someone mentioned. Not much extra work if the OP is already capping the entire wall.

Richard

Robin Wrote in message:
On 21/09/2018 10:54, Tricky Dicky wrote:
There are several stairs outside my mother's place that have that exact arrangement except the wall levels out at the end and the last capping stone is set horizontal, this seems to do the job. I know there are no other fixings as I saw them do the cappings.

Richard


As on the parapet walls on rooves of this and many other Victorian
terraces around here. But I thought it'd be OTT to suggest the OP
rebuild the wall so the last bit didn't slope.


Yet it's a viable option to throw in the mix, although, as in all
scenarios but especially this one, the construction of the
supporting wall would need to be of a good standard for it work
reliably...
--
--
Jim K


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On 21/09/2018 10:55, Jim K wrote:
Tricky Dicky Wrote in message:
There are several stairs outside my mother's place that have that exact arrangement except the wall levels out at the end and the last capping stone is set horizontal, this seems to do the job. I know there are no other fixings as I saw them do the cappings.

Richard


A "kneeler" iirc


I'd thought a "kneeler" was a stone (on the lines Dave Plowman
described) rather than a horizontal section of wall

https://www.encyclopedia.com/literat...ecture/kneeler

But I accept language changes

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 21/09/2018 11:14, Tricky Dicky wrote:
As on the parapet walls on rooves of this and many other Victorian
terraces around here. But I thought it'd be OTT to suggest the OP
rebuild the wall so the last bit didn't slope.

He would not have to rebuild the entire wall just put in a couple of courses at the end of that slope to leave a horizontal end and set one capping stone on top, or "kneeler" as someone mentioned. Not much extra work if the OP is already capping the entire wall.


With _my_ ability as a bricklayer it[1] would be a lot more work if a
neat job was require

[1] The walls I've seen finished like that have had a full capping stone
at the end. That's usually 600mm these days. With a 45 degree wall I
thought that needed 7 or 8 courses at the end. And while he might get
away with a short length, ISTM that risks it being pushed off by the
stones above.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Friday, 21 September 2018 11:47:19 UTC+1, Robin wrote:
On 21/09/2018 11:14, Tricky Dicky wrote:
As on the parapet walls on rooves of this and many other Victorian
terraces around here. But I thought it'd be OTT to suggest the OP
rebuild the wall so the last bit didn't slope.

He would not have to rebuild the entire wall just put in a couple of courses at the end of that slope to leave a horizontal end and set one capping stone on top, or "kneeler" as someone mentioned. Not much extra work if the OP is already capping the entire wall.


With _my_ ability as a bricklayer it[1] would be a lot more work if a
neat job was require

[1] The walls I've seen finished like that have had a full capping stone
at the end. That's usually 600mm these days. With a 45 degree wall I
thought that needed 7 or 8 courses at the end. And while he might get
away with a short length, ISTM that risks it being pushed off by the
stones above.

Whatever you choose just don't use sawn galvanised steel. The bare ends will rust without delay. and in time that'll make a royal mess.


NT

In article ,
Jim K wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
George Miles wrote:
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone,
overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

The party wall in the roof of my Victorian semi is like that.

At the bottom end, there is a carved stone which replaces a few bricks
and has the coping stone as part of it. Wouldn't be difficult to make
some shuttering and cast one up from concrete.


Would be difficult to avoid making it look ****e though... aiui it's not
up on a roof...

I think it looks better than the other common method of a kneeler at the
end.

No big deal casting concrete.

--
*Starfishes have no brains *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
Jim K wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
George Miles wrote:
I have a sloping 45 degree wall which want to cap with stone,
overhanging on 3 sides for rain drips.

How to fix it so it wont slide off over time?

The party wall in the roof of my Victorian semi is like that.

At the bottom end, there is a carved stone which replaces a few bricks
and has the coping stone as part of it. Wouldn't be difficult to make
some shuttering and cast one up from concrete.


Would be difficult to avoid making it look ****e though... aiui it's not
up on a roof...

I think it looks better than the other common method of a kneeler at the
end.

If it's on a roof and no one can see it - maybe.

No big deal casting concrete.

Trivial.

Designing the form, sorting suitable aggregates, colours etc out
to give a finish worthy of a close inspection not so trivial.
Hence the huge market in cast stone...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
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Wrote in message:
On Friday, 21 September 2018 11:47:19 UTC+1, Robin wrote:
On 21/09/2018 11:14, Tricky Dicky wrote:
As on the parapet walls on rooves of this and many other Victorian
terraces around here. But I thought it'd be OTT to suggest the OP
rebuild the wall so the last bit didn't slope.

He would not have to rebuild the entire wall just put in a couple of courses at the end of that slope to leave a horizontal end and set one capping stone on top, or "kneeler" as someone mentioned. Not much extra work if the OP is already capping the entire wall.


With _my_ ability as a bricklayer it[1] would be a lot more work if a
neat job was require

[1] The walls I've seen finished like that have had a full capping stone
at the end. That's usually 600mm these days. With a 45 degree wall I
thought that needed 7 or 8 courses at the end. And while he might get
away with a short length, ISTM that risks it being pushed off by the
stones above.

Whatever you choose just don't use sawn galvanised steel. The bare ends will rust without delay. and in time that'll make a royal mess.


NT


Like all the rebar still holding up all those concrete bridges...

--
Jim K


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