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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Help with some plumbing
I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg
The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? |
#2
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Help with some plumbing
On Wednesday, 12 September 2018 15:29:16 UTC+1, tonkski wrote:
I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? use a site that doesn't royally screw with browsers and you'd get more asssitance. |
#4
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Help with some plumbing
On Wednesday, 12 September 2018 15:29:16 UTC+1, tonkski wrote:
I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? You may well find the radiator also needs replacing. Something like this should help. https://www.columnrads.co.uk/radiato...lve-extensions |
#5
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Help with some plumbing
Brian Reay wrote:
Carefully remove the 'olives' from the other joints Hoping that someone hasn't overtightened and crushed them in an attempt to stop the leak |
#6
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Help with some plumbing
tonkski explained :
The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. So far as I know, B does not telescope. If that valve and its opposite number at the other end of the radiator can be persuaded to shut off enough, then you might manage the task with just that radiator drained down. Fit a new B, with a good smear of Plumbers Mait on the thread and the mating surface. If the either valve fails to seal, then you will have to drain down, so may as well fit a replacement valve plus B. Don't forget to add inhibitor. |
#7
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Help with some plumbing
Thanks Harry. I think I can shut the valves off sufficiently. I'm not sure what B is, but it looks like it has been bunged into the radiator rather than using a proper screw-in fitting. I'm not sure a new B will fit in the space allowed by the valve if done properly.
The radiator is a replacement put in by a plumber a few years ago. |
#8
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Help with some plumbing
On 12/09/2018 15:29, tonkski wrote:
I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? I would suggest replacing the valve completely, and if necessary get a stem extension to allow it to reach the rad from its current location. You can replace the tail screwed into the rad with an extension tail - these normally have a rubber O ring that seals against the surface of the rad rather than the more traditional taper fitting that needs PTFE tape on the threads. That gives you a protruding stub of 15mm pipe. Most modern rad valves expect to seal onto a pipe (the supplied tails being nothing more than a threaded taper fitting fixed to a short length of pipe). So you can discard the short stub that comes with the valve, and use the longer one instead. e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-t...v-15mm-x/89224 and https://www.screwfix.com/p/chrome-ra...x-2-pack/10954 -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#9
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Help with some plumbing
tonkski wrote :
Thanks Harry. I think I can shut the valves off sufficiently. I'm not sure what B is, but it looks like it has been bunged into the radiator rather than using a proper screw-in fitting. I'm not sure a new B will fit in the space allowed by the valve if done properly. The radiator is a replacement put in by a plumber a few years ago. It looks like the perfectly standard part, which comes with the valve, from what I can see in the photo. |
#10
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Help with some plumbing
Carefully remove the 'olives' from the other joints and replace. ......should be fun trying that...tee hee |
#11
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Help with some plumbing
The radiator is a replacement put in by a plumber a few years ago. get a new radiator they are dirt cheap ........speshly at screwfix |
#12
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Help with some plumbing
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It looks like the perfectly standard part, which comes with the valve, from what I can see in the photo. Not to me, It looks like a modern 'stem' that ought to screw into the radiator has instead been used backwards screwed into the union coupling of an old style valve, then 'sealed' into the radiator with gunge ... |
#13
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Help with some plumbing
Thanks John. I hadn't realised that.
I think I'll drain down and replace the valve and tail as you suggest. I'll replace olives if they are willing to come without a struggle or I can easily cut / split them without damaging the pipes. Thanks everyone. I get great help on here every time. |
#14
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Help with some plumbing
On 12/09/2018 20:11, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/09/2018 15:29, tonkski wrote: I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? I would suggest replacing the valve completely, and if necessary get a stem extension to allow it to reach the rad from its current location. Why replace the valve? If the problem is at the radiator tail - maybe just replace that? The existing tail looks most odd to me. Not replacing the valve would save draining the system down . . . -- Cheers, Rob |
#15
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Help with some plumbing
Manikin of mirth ... was thinking very hard :
Carefully remove the 'olives' from the other joints and replace. ......should be fun trying that...tee hee You make a saw cut across the olive, in line with the pipe, just deep enough to get a sharp screwdriver in. If made deep enough, twisting the driver breaks the olive. If not too tight, you might be able to get a pair of pliers behind the olive and tap it off with a hammer. |
#16
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Help with some plumbing
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message news Manikin of mirth ... was thinking very hard : Carefully remove the 'olives' from the other joints and replace. ......should be fun trying that...tee hee You make a saw cut across the olive, in line with the pipe, just deep enough to get a sharp screwdriver in. If made deep enough, twisting the driver breaks the olive. If not too tight, you might be able to get a pair of pliers behind the olive and tap it off with a hammer. yip...hard work |
#17
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Help with some plumbing
On 12/09/2018 20:48, tonkski wrote:
Thanks John. I hadn't realised that. I think I'll drain down and replace the valve and tail as you suggest. I'll replace olives if they are willing to come without a struggle or I can easily cut / split them without damaging the pipes. The new valve will come with new olives. The only place there might be cause to reuse one is if you re-use the old backnut form the existing valve to fit the new one. Note however there is no guarantee that the thread will match, or the length of protruding pipe will not be too long for the new valve. So you may well have to pull or split that olive. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#18
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Help with some plumbing
On 12/09/2018 21:06, RJH wrote:
On 12/09/2018 20:11, John Rumm wrote: On 12/09/2018 15:29, tonkski wrote: I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? I would suggest replacing the valve completely, and if necessary get a stem extension to allow it to reach the rad from its current location. Why replace the valve? If the problem is at the radiator tail - maybe just replace that? The existing tail looks most odd to me. Not replacing the valve would save draining the system down . . . The main difficulty with the existing valve is it uses the traditional cone joint style of fitting. Most tail extensions won't have that fitting, and will expect the valve to have a 15mm compression fitting on the rad side as well as the pipe side. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#19
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Help with some plumbing
On 12/09/2018 22:24, John Rumm wrote:
On 12/09/2018 21:06, RJH wrote: On 12/09/2018 20:11, John Rumm wrote: On 12/09/2018 15:29, tonkski wrote: I've been putting this job off for years. There's a leaking fitting on one of my central heating radiators and I'm not sure how best to go about fixing it. I've got as far as cutting away the boxing to see what's going on. See photo at: http://i66.tinypic.com/erwqcp.jpg The telescopic fitting "B" leaks, despite various efforts at bodging it, and needs replacing with something. The nasty bodge "A" also needs doing properly. Pipe "E" rises out of a concrete floor and is already quite short so I don't want to mess with it too much for fear of ending up having to replace a buried pipe. My thought had been to cap off the top of T fitting "D", put a compression T fitting in pipe "F" and then bring a pipe from that up and around (through 90 degrees) into the radiator using a straight valve. My worry is that there might not be enough movement in pipe "F" to allow the T fitting in. Hope this makes sense. Any bright ideas please? I would suggest replacing the valve completely, and if necessary get a stem extension to allow it to reach the rad from its current location. Why replace the valve? If the problem is at the radiator tail - maybe just replace that? The existing tail looks most odd to me. Not replacing the valve would save draining the system down . . . The main difficulty with the existing valve is it uses the traditional cone joint style of fitting. Most tail extensions won't have that fitting, and will expect the valve to have a 15mm compression fitting on the rad side as well as the pipe side. Ah OK, got it, thanks - out of my field of experience! -- Cheers, Rob |
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